【総集編】6泊7日新潟・山形一人旅【湯野浜温泉カニ1杯付の宿、肘折温泉黄金の湯、新潟5大ラーメン】
A compilation of our long drive to Niigata and Yamagata : Shokudo Shojoji in Nagaoka City, Niigata Prefecture. This restaurant serves authentic Edomae tempura, with a lineup centered around tempura bowls. I ordered the Tendon A. Founded in 2004, this restaurant has been intriguing since I saw it on TV. Many reviews recommended the corn tempura . The Tendon A (1,100 yen) features shrimp, eggplant, green peppers, sardines, and corn. The sesame oil and sauce smelled wonderful, and the tofu miso soup was light and flavorful. The miso soup was light and flavorful. The tempura wasn’t crispy, but rather soft and permeated with the sauce, giving it a soft texture. The corn was sweet! I devoured it all in one go . It was delicious ! Thank you for the meal ! This time, we’re taking a 6-night, 7-day long drive around Niigata and Yamagata, eating local delicacies, relaxing in hot springs, and spending the first day staying overnight in Niigata City ! Huh? That sign… again! I’ve seen it on TV, “Matsuda Pet.” It’s unique! Each sign is slightly different, and apparently all hand-drawn. It’s become a bit of a Nagaoka specialty, and in recent years, they’ve even started selling merchandise. While I was thinking about Matsuda Pet , I arrived at… Nagaoka Fireworks Museum, a huge complex with souvenir shops, restaurants, and a fireworks museum . I took a look around the museum, which showed me a model of Nagaoka city, the history of Nagaoka fireworks , and even a fireworks game on a large screen. It was fun ! From Nagaoka to Niigata city, it’s about 60km away, and takes about an hour and a half on the back roads. Let’s enjoy a leisurely drive. The hotel inside Niigata city is in sight . Where’s the parking lot? Should I enter here? It’s quite narrow. The sensors are constantly responding. I managed to park. Check-in at Binchotan no Yu Niigata Park Hotel, Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture. Amenity corner. The large public bath is alternately for men and women. The rooms are on the 9th floor and are non-smoking. 帰りましたら本当に美味しいあるかもです。 English: The standard single room is compact but sufficient for one person The toilet is a little small There is a refrigerator but the desk is a little small A retro alarm and radio The mattress is original to the hotel There are outlets and remote controls by the pillow Outside the window you can see Niigata Station Street The Wi-Fi is also great The welcome drink is Calpis soda which warms my thirsty throat I head straight to the large public bath *Photo is from the official website Hotel Crown Hills Niigata where I stayed last time is in the same chain so the bath was nice and hot I went back to my room to take a break In the evening I walked to eat ramen and came across Ramen Toyoko Sasaguchi branch in Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture I ordered the special vegetable miso ramen which was listed as a specialty There is one of Niigata’s five great ramens, Niigata Rich Miso Ramen Toyoko is known for its Niigata Rich Miso Ramen Apparently it was taken over from a restaurant founded by the owner’s older brother The special vegetable miso ramen was 1,110 yen and the soup was served with a discount I added free toppings of garlic and back fat The noodles were thick and firm and the soup was as rich as the name suggests! This ramen seems to go well with rice. The garlic and back fat give it a Jiro-style ramen feel . The pork is soft and delicious. The pepper adds a flavor change . Later, I add the diluted soup , which makes the soup milder. I drank it all and ate it all. I felt incredibly satisfied. I returned to the hotel. I thought I would just lie down and rest for a bit, but before I knew it, I fell asleep. The next morning , I was tired, so I slept well. I checked out. Today I’m heading to Yamagata . From here, I’ll take a leisurely ride on the local roads, about 200km from my destination, to my accommodation. I’ll go to “Roadside Station Toyosaka” in Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture. This is known as the birthplace of roadside stations, and it was designated as Japan’s first roadside station in 1993. The bypass is easy to navigate and comfortable. I’ll enter Shibata city for lunch. This is a long-established restaurant founded in 1921 , where I’ll enjoy the soul food of Shibata residents. This is the place! There are already people waiting, even though it’s not open yet. “Shokudo Hondaya” in Shibata City, Niigata Prefecture. The menu includes the daily dish, noodles, rice bowls, and set meals. I had already decided what to order, and there’s a sign on the wall . I’ll wait a while for “Shumai (homemade)”. 750 yen “Rice and Clam Soup Set” 500 yen What a size! It’s so heavy I can’t carry it I feel quite full with just one left I manage to finish it Juicy shumai, delicious It suddenly started raining The weather had been nice just a moment ago From here we are taking the free section of the Nihonkai Tohoku Expressway The rain is getting stronger The free section ends here I think this area is Murakami City Niigata Prefecture is really long vertically Oh, the famous Sasagawa Nagare I’d like to go there someday but not now Oh, the words Tsuruoka and Nezumigaseki are there! Finally, we entered Yamagata Prefecture. Today, on the second day of our 7-day, 6-night trip to Niigata and Yamagata, we were in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. Unfortunately, it was raining, but we decided to take a break at a roadside station called “Atsumi Sharin,” in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. The restaurant looked good, but we had already had lunch today. The atmosphere was different from the Hokuriku coast. Our destination was Okura Village, Yamagata Prefecture , a hot spring resort with a traditional hot spring culture called “Hijiori Onsen.” We were on the free section of the Japan Sea Tohoku Expressway . Hijiori Onsen has a long history, and it is said to have begun in 807 when an old monk broke his elbow and soaked in the hot spring, where the injury was instantly healed. We got off at the Tsuruoka Nishi exit. We left the city and headed into the mountains. We saw the word “Hijiori” on a sign. We were almost there , and that red bridge was the “Hijiori Nozomi Bridge.” This bridge , completed in 2013 after two years of construction, is known as a new specialty of Hijiori Onsen . At 240 meters long, the Hijiori Hope Bridge is the longest steel ram bridge in Japan. *Image from the official Hijiori Onsen website Today’s accommodation is located a little way from the hot spring town. We arrived at the Kinseikan Inn in Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture. It’s a nice, rustic inn . We climbed the stone steps to enter the inn. Our room was the Rindou on the second floor, a 6-tatami Japanese-style room. It felt like we were staying at grandma’s house in the countryside during our summer vacations as children . I was the only guest staying that day, so I could relax without any worries . There was no air conditioning, so we had to use a fan to keep cool. There was a shared refrigerator in the hallway. It was raining outside the window, so we immediately took a bath. This bath is one of the three hot springs in Hijiori Onsen, the “Golden Hot Spring,” and is directly drawn from the source . The cloudy water gives off a faint iron-like scent when you soak in it. The water is a sodium chloride/bicarbonate hot spring, known for its heat-retaining properties and skin-beautifying effects. We also tried the open-air bath. Wow… the stones underfoot are quite slippery! The outer water is a little warm, while the inner water is quite hot. Feeling revived , we returned to our room and took a nap. It was time for dinner, and the hostess brought us a bowl of rice , each full of flavor . We had envisioned a small portion, as we’d imagined, but there was a lot to choose from, and it was very filling . We managed to finish it all, but we were more full than we’d imagined. We took another bath and went to bed that day. The next morning, it seemed like the weather was clear, so we washed our faces and headed out. Hijiori’s famous morning market is held every morning from April to November, early in the morning. It’s located in Hijiori Onsen Town, about a 20-minute walk from the inn. Enjoy a morning stroll. The hot spring town comes into view across the Dozan River. This hot spring retains the atmosphere of the Showa era. The town has a lovely atmosphere. From here on is the morning market venue. I’ll buy something for dinner. There are delicious looking items like mushroom rice and pickled wild vegetables, but I made the sad mistake of forgetting my wallet. I knew in advance that payment was only by cash, but… I had no choice but to turn back . I was sweating, so I went back to the inn and took a morning bath. It was time for breakfast, which the landlady had brought to my room again today. I had a hearty bowl of sasakama rice for breakfast . The rice and natto were amazing. I even threw a raw egg on the rice . Phew, I was eating well. After a while, I went outside again. I could see the Hijiori Kibou Bridge that I had passed yesterday. I walked through the hot spring town . This is exactly the kind of town I imagine when I hear the word “hot spring town. ” Yakushi Shrine, Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture Said to have been founded in 1390, this shrine is also known as “Yuza Shrine.” There seem to be various stories behind its construction as you climb the stone steps to the shrine. Looking down, it’s quite high. Continuing through the hot spring town , past the bathkeeper’s hut , it’s just ahead. Leaving the hot spring town, we head upstream to the Dozan River, where we pass the “Gensen Dome” in Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture, and the “Hijiori Dam” in Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture. The footbath attached to the dam seems to be closed at the moment. Let ‘s head back to the hot spring town for lunch. It’s noon on the third day of our 6-night, 7-day trip to Niigata and Yamagata. The heat is intense, and I want some refreshing soba noodles. Soba Dokoro Kotobukiya in Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture. The restaurant is clean, but there aren’t many customers yet. Apparently, they no longer serve the “zabuton” deep-fried tofu they used to serve. It’s a shame, but the “Hijiori Tofu” I’d been wanting to try is 250 yen. It’s brought to me in no time . First, I pour some cold barley tea over it. “Mori Soba,” firm tofu with a soybean aroma, is a must-try. 650 yen The soba noodles are a little dark in colour and there is a generous amount. It also comes with soba soup. It’s firm and easy to swallow. Apparently , they eat it with chili peppers instead of wasabi here. The sweet soup goes well with the chili pepper flavour. After drinking the soba soup, I was delighted with the meal . “Hoteiya,” Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture. I bought some Hotei Manju, a specialty of Hijiori, and returned to my lodgings. “Kaneokan,” Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture. I immediately started eating “Hotei Manju.” 110 yen. The dough was fluffy and the aroma of brown sugar was wonderful. It ‘s still light outside in the evening , so I’m planning on staying overnight and going out to buy some food for dinner. I ordered a portion of horse sashimi from “Chonan Butcher Shop,” Okura Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture. I ate too much yesterday, so this will be my only dinner. “Horse sashimi” 1000 yen. The generous amount of chopped garlic really whetted my appetite . I don’t usually drink, but… I got some great horse sashimi, so I had one ice-cold bowl…! Delicious!! Delicious!! It was so good… It looked like the owner of the inn was going to show us fireflies tonight ! It’s hard to tell on camera, but when I was a child, we could see fireflies in Toyama too. “Hijiori Senbei” is a common waffle, but it’s delicious. Hot tea is also great when it’s hot. I took another bath before going to bed, and soaking in the hot springs on a hot night is the ultimate luxury. The next morning , I said goodbye to this inn. Thank you to the owner and the landlady for your hospitality . “Hijiori Onsen” is a hot spring town with a therapeutic hot spring resort atmosphere. It was a memorable stay. After this, I headed towards Shinjo. My accommodation for the night was Tsuruoka, but before that, I wanted to eat some Shinjo specialties. I drove about 50 minutes in the car to this restaurant nestled in the city center. “Issaan Branch” in Shinjo City, Yamagata Prefecture. The style is to order first. This is the restaurant said to be the birthplace of Shinjo’s specialty, Motsu Ramen. Established in 1950, it serves “Motsu Ramen”. 700 yen The soup contains various parts of the chicken such as liver, skin and kumquats and is soy sauce based, with a rich chicken flavour. The noodles are thin and easy to slurp. It was well worth the trip out of my way to eat this delicious meal. On the fourth day of my 7-day, 6-night trip to Niigata and Yamagata , I ate chicken offal ramen in Shinjo and was now heading to Tsuruoka. Today’s destination was Yunohama Onsen , which has a long history dating back to the Tenki era (1053-1058). It originated from a legend that a turtle was healing its wounds in the hot springs by the sea. It is known as one of the leading resort areas in Yamagata Prefecture, and I took a slight detour to Roadside Station Tozawa in Tozawa Village, Mogami District, Yamagata Prefecture. This roadside station looks quite different, and apparently recreates Korean history and culture. Why Korea? I looked into it and found that in 1985, agricultural technology exchanges began between Tozawa Village and Korea, which led to international marriages and the migration of many Korean women. There is also a restaurant, but today, as it is closed, there are many Korean products on display. I bought some cold noodles as a souvenir. It was an unusual and interesting roadside station. I continued driving to the next roadside station, Shonai Town, Higashitagawa District, Yamagata Prefecture, “Roadside Station Shonai Windmill Market.” This is a typical roadside station . I bought some ramen as a souvenir. I continued on for 25km to “Onsen Minshuku Shirahama-ya” in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. I arrived a little early, but was kindly allowed into room 9 on the second floor . It was a beautiful Japanese-style room. It’s not spacious, but it’s enough for one person. There’s a kettle and remote control on the table. It’s air-conditioned today! The TV is small, but there ‘s a hanger here. Unfortunately, there’s no ocean view. The yukata is in the hallway. The refrigerator is shared. I immediately took a bath. The spring water is a calcium-sodium chloride hot spring. It keeps you warm for a long time, and the salt has a sterilizing effect, so it’s also known as wound-healing water. After that, it was time to relax in my room. It was dinner time. I couldn’t help but exclaim, “It’s so luxurious!” First, the sashimi was fresh and delicious. Next, the pork shabu- shabu. It’s about time ! It’s so tender! The fat is sweet , the green onions are crunchy , and the grilled fish is like flounder. It pairs perfectly with rice. The fried shrimp looks satisfying and crispy! The main course is red snow crab. Apparently, it’s been branded as “Tengi no Benikani” (Tengi Red Crab) this year. Instructions on how to prepare the crab are posted on the wall. First, remove the shell, split the body in half, remove the gills , and separate the body from the legs. The crab is rich and delicious! After struggling with the crab for several tens of minutes, what a sense of accomplishment ! Ah, so delicious! This is it… This is it! The crab bowl is complete! The leg meat is delicious on its own, but with the addition of miso, it tastes indescribable. I ‘m so happy… ha, it was delicious ! I even had dessert, thank you for the meal! After that, I took another bath and went to bed. The next morning , I went to the breakfast venue. Grilled salmon, natto, hijiki… my appetite was stimulated from the morning, and I was full ! Thank you for the meal ! On the 5th day of my 6-night, 7-day trip to Niigata and Yamagata, for lunch, I went to eat “Mugikiri,” a specialty of Shonai. Mugikiri is similar to udon noodles made from kneaded wheat flour, but is apparently a different thing . “Nezakeya Hanbei” in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture , was founded in 1873, and is a famous restaurant that is said to have popularized mugikiri. The menu basically consists of only soba and mugikiri. I ordered “zaru mugikiri ” and waited 15 minutes for “zaru mugikiri.” 780 yen The noodles are slightly browner than udon noodles. The noodles are slightly thinner than udon noodles , and the condiment is Japanese mustard instead of wasabi, which is another unique feature. The delicious noodles have a barley flavor . The Japanese mustard has a different spiciness than wasabi, which goes well with the soba soup (maybe barley soup because it’s made with barley?). It was delicious, thank you for the meal . Next, we went to see the human-faced fish, which was once a hot topic. In 1990, the human-faced fish became a huge hit in Tsuruoka, and I really wanted to see it. Zenpo-ji Temple is a pond on the temple grounds. “Let’s cherish the lives of living creatures and the mountains and rivers.” Kaikui Pond, Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. It’s said that two dragon gods calmed down in Kaikui Pond, and the human-faced fish is also said to be a messenger of the dragon gods … but it’s not there! Oh, what about this golden carp! Is it the human-faced fish…? I head back to the inn for a moment to see the coast in front of me. There’s a fairly large inn in ruins… It seems this area has been turned into a swimming beach. The scenery is similar to Chirihama in Ishikawa Prefecture. It’s the off-season, so there’s no one there . “Onsen Minshuku Shirahama-ya” in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. I return to my room and immediately turn on the air conditioner . After cooling off for a while… I head to the bath . In the evening , I head to the town of Tsuruoka for dinner. Wow, that big torii gate ! This is it. “Midori Shokudo” in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture. This restaurant is famous for its large portions. It was featured on the TV show “Omoumai-ten” and the proprietress’ words “We’ll feed you until your stomach bursts” made a big impact. The menu has a wide variety of options, including curry, set meals, ramen, and even soba and udon. After much deliberation, I chose “katsu curry” for 1,300 yen. When I saw it being brought to the person who had ordered katsu curry before me, I thought it was a large portion, a huge amount, but I was wrong. It was a regular portion! How many grams, no, how many kilograms does it weigh?! The curry, which comes with a little bit of yogurt , is not too spicy, but has a rich, deep flavor. The cutlet is so big that it’s hard to lift . It’s freshly fried and crispy, but the part covered in curry is soft , creating a nice contrast in texture. You can get a sense of how big it is by comparing it to the spoon. When I got to the halfway point, I was pretty satisfied, but there was a surprise fried chicken skin in the middle! Just a little more to motivate myself! I finished eating, and was in a daze for a while. It was a long battle… After the battle, I was able to rest my triumphant body the next morning. It was my last stay at Yunohama Onsen. It was an amazing value for money, with one night’s stay and two meals for 8,150 yen, including one red snow crab. The hot spring water was directly from the source, and it was also great. It was an inn that I would recommend to everyone. “Mendokoro Kyuta” in Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture . For lunch, I ate ramen at Atsumi Onsen. I went to a counter seat and ordered the basic Chinese noodles, “Chuka Soba” for 900 yen. The amber-colored clear soup had large pieces of pork. The homemade silk noodles went down smoothly and were easy to swallow . The pork was thinly sliced and had a light taste. I added pepper to change the flavor… It was delicious, thank you for the meal. Today I’m planning to stay in Niigata Prefecture and enjoy a pleasant drive along the coast. Today is the sixth day of my 6-night, 7-day trip to Niigata and Yamagata. I passed through Tsuruoka City, Yamagata Prefecture, and entered Murakami City, Niigata Prefecture . About two hours after leaving the inn at Yunohama Onsen, Taking a short break at a roadside station . Taking the toll-free section of the Nihonkai Tohoku Expressway from Asahi Mahoroba IC. Today, I’m staying in Mitsuke City, Niigata Prefecture. From Arakawa Tainai IC onwards, the toll section becomes a toll section. I get off at Arakawa Tainai IC and head towards Momosakihama. Entering Niigata City, I head to this roadside station, “Niigata Furusato Mura Roadside Station,” Niigata City, Niigata Prefecture. This roadside station is one of the largest in Niigata Prefecture, and has the “Bazaar Hall” selling about 10,000 souvenirs, the Niigata information hub “Five One Like! Niigata Hall, ” the “Flower Field,” the “Hometown Garden,” the “Green House,” and more, making it the kind of facility you could enjoy all day long. Entering Mitsuke City. Mitsuke City is located in the center of Niigata Prefecture and is the smallest city in the prefecture. This is my first time visiting. I arrive at the lodging, “Kusanagi Ryokan,” Mitsuke City, Niigata Prefecture. Check-in is in the “Nadeshiko ” room on the second floor, a 6-tatami Japanese-style room. There’s a toilet next to the entrance, and the room is compact but clean. There’s an empty refrigerator inside , hangers, yukata, and towels. I can see a residential area outside the window. I’m tired from the long drive, so I lie down and rest for a while. Then, I went to the bath, expecting it to be a home bath, but it was quite spacious. It wasn’t a hot spring, but I was able to relax and refresh myself. In the evening, I went to a sushi restaurant that’s been trending on social media, ” Tairyo Sushi” in Mitsuke City, Niigata Prefecture . I was shown to the counter and ordered the “Dekamori Donburi” (large serving bowl). This was it! The self-service miso soup was “Himemori” (1,600 yen) with fish bones . I was scared off by yesterday’s katsu curry, so I ordered the smallest size, but even so, it was so big! Shrimp tuna (lean meat) and yellowtail tuna (fatty tuna) – melt-in-your-mouth! Everything was of high quality! It wasn’t just a huge portion, it was a very satisfying seafood bowl that showed the pride of the sushi restaurant . I went back to the inn and went to sleep. The next morning , I was treated well. On the final day of this long journey, I decided to have some ramen. Nagaoka City, next to Mitsuke City, has a ramen that has long been loved by locals. Nagaoka Ginger Soy Sauce Ramen is one of Niigata’s top five ramens. It’s said to be the original. “Aoshima Shokudo Miyauchi Ekimae Branch” in Nagaoka City, Niigata Prefecture . It wasn’t open yet , so I walked around the area a bit . I was late, but I bought a ticket from the ticket machine outside the store. I managed to get in the first round of “Aoshima Ramen” for 900 yen. The soy sauce-based soup, with a subtle ginger aroma, was a nice accent. The chewy medium- thick noodles and thinly sliced pork slices were also delicious . It reminded me of the ramen I used to eat at street stalls. It was delicious.
2025年6月に行った6泊7日新潟・山形一人旅の総集編です。
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