【茶の湯と数寄屋の美 京御三家】炭屋旅館 / 京都市 中京区

【茶の湯と数寄屋の美 京御三家】炭屋旅館 / 京都市 中京区

京都市中京区 炭屋旅館に投宿してきました。

京都の中心部、麩屋町三条に佇む炭屋旅館。大正初期に創業し、俵屋、柊家と並び称される京都御三家の宿とされる老舗旅館です。賑やかな三条の街中にありながら、一歩門をくぐると静かな別世界。数寄屋造りの建物と露地が迎えてくれます。

炭屋旅館の始まりは刀の鍛冶屋だったそうです。その後、茶や焼き物、謡曲などを愛する人々が集まる場所となり、特に千利休を始祖とする裏千家とのかかわりを深めていきます。遠方から京都へ稽古に訪れる人たちの宿として発展し、茶の湯との深い縁は今も受け継がれています。

館内は数寄屋造りを基本とし、客室ごとに床の間や天井、襖、障子などの意匠が異なります。茶室「玉兎庵」をはじめ、茶室を写した客室もあり茶の湯の美意識が息づいています。

お風呂は吉野の高野槙を使った大きな浴槽。木の香りに包まれて湯に浸かると、街中にいることを忘れてしまうような静かな時間。建物や庭と同じく、派手さではなく素材そのものの魅力を感じるお風呂でした。

食事は旬の京野菜をはじめ、季節の素材を活かした京懐石。温かいものは温かいうちに、冷たいものは冷たいうちに、一品ずつ部屋へ運ばれます。料理だけでなく、器や盛り付け、そして料理が運ばれてくる時間まで含めて、京都の季節を味わう食事でした。

炭屋旅館には、豪華さを前面に出すような派手な演出はありません。

茶室、露地、数寄屋の建物、料理、そして一服のお茶。ひとつひとつは控えめですが、それらが重なることで「茶の湯の宿」としての独特な空気が生まれています。

京都の街中で、静かに日本文化を感じられる宿。京都の美意識をゆっくり味わえる一夜でした。

若いながら一生懸命お世話していただいた仲居さん、ありがとうございました。
また別の部屋に宿泊できる機会が来ることを楽しみにしています。

＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿

■京都 炭屋旅館
https://www.sumiyaryokan.com/

__________________________________________________________

* 動画内の一部情報はネットによる情報収集に基づいています。

#vlog
#onsen
#ryokan
#japan

__________________________________________________________

I stayed at Sumiya Ryokan, a historic ryokan in Fuyacho Sanjo, in the heart of Kyoto, Japan.

Founded in the early Taisho period, Sumiya Ryokan is one of Kyoto’s most prestigious traditional inns, often mentioned alongside Tawaraya and Hiiragiya as the “Three Great Ryokans of Kyoto.” Despite its location in the lively center of Sanjo, stepping through the entrance leads to a completely different world of tranquility, surrounded by Sukiya-style architecture and traditional roji garden paths.

The origins of Sumiya Ryokan are said to go back to a swordsmith’s workshop. Over time, it became a gathering place for people who shared a love of tea, ceramics, Noh chanting, and other traditional arts. The ryokan developed particularly close ties with the Urasenke school of tea ceremony, founded in the tradition of Sen no Rikyu. It eventually became a place where people traveling to Kyoto from distant regions could stay while studying the tea ceremony, and this deep connection with chado, the Way of Tea, continues to this day.

The interior is based on traditional Sukiya-style architecture, with each guest room featuring its own distinctive design, from the tokonoma alcove and ceilings to the fusuma sliding doors and shoji screens. Some rooms were inspired by traditional tea rooms, while the tea room Gyokuto-an remains an important part of the ryokan. The aesthetics of the tea ceremony can be felt throughout the property.

The bath features a large tub made from Koya maki Japanese umbrella pine from Yoshino. As I soaked in the warm water surrounded by the natural fragrance of the wood, it was easy to forget that I was staying in the middle of Kyoto. Like the architecture and garden, the bath does not rely on extravagance, but instead allows the beauty of the natural materials to speak for itself.

Dinner is a traditional Kyoto kaiseki meal featuring seasonal ingredients, including Kyoto vegetables. Each dish is carefully brought to the room one at a time, with hot dishes served hot and chilled dishes served at their proper temperature. It was a meal that allowed me to experience Kyoto’s seasons not only through the food itself, but also through the tableware, presentation, and timing of each dish.

Sumiya Ryokan does not rely on flashy displays of luxury.

The tea room, roji garden, Sukiya-style architecture, cuisine, and a simple bowl of tea may each appear understated on their own. But together, they create a unique atmosphere that makes Sumiya Ryokan truly feel like a “ryokan of the Way of Tea.”

A peaceful retreat in the heart of Kyoto where you can quietly experience Japanese culture.

It was a wonderful evening spent slowly appreciating the refined aesthetics of Kyoto.

A special thank you to the young nakai-san who took such great care of me throughout my stay.

I look forward to the opportunity to return and experience another of the ryokan’s beautiful guest rooms.

＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿＿

■ Sumiya Ryokan, Kyoto
https://www.sumiyaryokan.com/

Some information featured in this video was researched from sources available online.