Soaking in Japan’s Secret Onsen Villages | Yamagata Hot Springs by Rail
[Music] [Music] When most people think of Japan, the image that pops up is Tokyo’s neon skyline, bullet trains cutting through the city, and bustling food stalls. But hop on a train just a few hours north and you’ll discover a Japan that feels like a secret chapter in a travel book. A land of misty valleys, wooden rioen, and steaming hot springs that have been soothing travelers for centuries. Hi everyone, welcome back to the channel. I’ve just finished one of my favorite journeys yet. Traveling by train across Yamagatada Prefecture, a region in northern Japan blessed with dramatic mountains, old hotring towns, and some of the friendliest people I’ve met. Instead of sticking to one destination, I packed my rail pass, a towel, and a notebook, and hopped from one onen town to the next, letting the trains guide my path. In this video, I’ll take you through the best hot spring towns around Yamagatada that you can easily visit by train. I’ll show you where to soak under falling snow, where to walk through lantern lit streets straight out of a movie, and where to find hidden healing waters far off the tourist trail. This isn’t just a list. It’s the actual route I took, moving from one place to another, each with its own character and story. So, grab a cup of tea, imagine the sound of a train rolling through the countryside, and join me as we set off on an onsen adventure by rail. My journey began in Yamagatada City, the gateway to the region. From here, I boarded a local train on the JR Senzan line and within 40 minutes found myself at the base of Mount Zho. A short bus ride from the station took me up winding mountain roads to Zhao Anson, one of Japan’s oldest and most famous hot springs. The first thing that hit me when I stepped off the bus was the smell. A sharp suluric scent carried by the crisp alpine air. It’s a smell that says you’re in real onen country now. The streets were lined with traditional wooden rioan little souvenir shops selling local sweets and streams of steaming water trickling along stone channels at the roadside. Zho Anen has been welcoming bthers for over 1,900 years. Its acidic, sulfurrich waters are said to heal skin conditions and soothe tired muscles. Perfect after a day of travel. I dropped my bag at a small rioon near the center of town and immediately went exploring. There are three free public bathous here, plus several open air foot baths where you can rest your feet and chat with other travelers. In winter, Zhao transforms into a ski resort famous for its snow monsters. Frostcovered trees that look like frozen ghosts lining the slopes. That night, I soaked in an outdoor roten while snowflakes drifted down and pine trees framed the view. The hot mineral water stung at first, then melted every ounce of tension out of my body. I went to bed that night feeling like I had stepped back into an older, slower Japan. The next morning, I took a train from Yamagata station to Oshida station, the nearest stop for Ginsan Anen. From there, a 35minut bus ride wound through snowy valleys before dropping me at the entrance to what might be the most photogenic hotring town in all of Japan. Ginsan Anen sits along a narrow river. Its banks lined with three and fourstory wooden inns built in the Taiisho era. Gas lanterns light the streets at night, casting a warm glow on the bridges and balconies. The moment I arrived, I felt like I’d been transported into a Studio Gibli movie. This town has a fascinating history. Originally a silver mining settlement, its name means silver mountain. It reinvented itself as a hot spring resort when the mines closed. Today, it’s a perfectly preserved slice of early 20th century Japan. I checked into a Rioan whose bath had a window opening directly onto the river. The water was crystal clear and just the right temperature. Even if you don’t stay overnight, Gins Anen is worth the trip for a day visit. There are public baths like Shuroganu where you can soak, plus tiny cafes serving sweet red bean buns and warm drinks. One of my favorite moments was standing on the main bridge at dusk, watching the lanterns flicker to life while snow fell gently into the steaming river below. Later, I explored the Shurogane waterfall just a short walk from the center, a reminder of the town’s mining past. By the time I left, I felt as if I’d stepped into a living painting. One foot in history and the other in a dream. After leaving Ginsan Onen, I headed back south to Tendo City, an easy train ride from Yamagatada. This town is known not only for its hot springs, but also for its centuries old connection to shogi, Japanese chess. When I stepped out of the station, I immediately saw giant wooden shogi pieces decorating the sidewalks. Tendo produces over 90% of Japan’s handcrafted shogi pieces and the town celebrates this heritage everywhere you look. Even some Rioon rooms are decorated with shogi motifs. Tendo Anson itself is a cluster of hotels and bathous right in the city center. Unlike the mountain resorts, it feels more local, a place where business travelers, families, and retirees mingle in the baths. The hot spring water here is gentle, slightly alkaline, and leaves your skin feeling smooth. I decided to visit one of the public bathous used mainly by locals. Inside, the atmosphere was relaxed and communal. People chatted softly while soaking. An elderly man next to me asked where I was from and then recommended a soba shop around the corner. That’s the kind of experience I love about less touristy onsen towns. Real connections. After my bath, I wandered to a nearby park where the annual human shogi event is held. A live performance where people dress as shogi pieces on a giant board. It wasn’t happening during my visit, but just seeing the stage gave me a sense of how deeply this game is woven into local culture. Before catching my train, I tried tendo beef at a small restaurant near the station. Tender, marbled, and the perfect way to end the day. On my fourth day, I decided to go off the beaten path. From Yamagata City, I took a train and then a local bus into the mountains to reach Hijior Anen, a secluded hotring village with a history stretching back over 1,200 years. [Music] Nestled in a deep valley surrounded by forested hills, Hiji feels like a time capsule. There’s no big commercial strip here, just a handful of old-fashioned ins, a couple of tiny restaurants, and a few public baths fed by natural springs. Its waters are especially known for their healing properties, and many Japanese people come here for long stays to recover from illness or stress. Arriving early in the morning, I watch locals walking to the communal bathous carrying small buckets, chatting with their neighbors. I joined them at one of the free public baths, a wooden building with sliding doors, and an outdoor pool looking onto misty pine trees. The water was hot but not overwhelming, and the atmosphere was so quiet I could hear the river below. Afterward, I strolled through the village and stopped at a small shop selling local pickles and handmade crafts. There was no rush, no crowds, just a rhythm of life that felt unchanged for decades. This was easily one of the most peaceful onsen experiences I’ve ever had and one that many foreign travelers overlook. For my final stop, I returned closer to Yamagatada City to visit Kaminoyama Onen, a historic hotring town at the foot of Mount Zo. This place combines two of my favorite things, history and hot springs. Right in the center of town stands Kaminoyama Castle, a reconstructed keep that offers panoramic views of the city and the surrounding mountains. Before heading to the baths, I climbed to the top and looked out at the patchwork of rice fields and snowy peaks. It’s rare to find a castle town where you can also soak in mineralrich waters within walking distance. Kaminoyama has several public bathous and foot baths scattered around town. I dipped my feet into one right outside the castle park where families and travelers sat chatting with their feet in the steaming water. The onsen water here is mild and slightly salty, perfect for relaxation. [Music] I spent the afternoon wandering the old Samurai district where preserved residences line narrow streets. It felt like a perfect way to round out my journey, seeing how people once lived and then experiencing the same waters they might have used centuries ago. Before catching my train back to Tokyo, I grabbed a bento box from the station filled with local specialties like Yonazawa beef and pickled vegetables. As the train rolled south, I watched the Yamagatada countryside slide by, rivers glinting in the sun, rice patties waiting for spring and distant mountains still capped with snow. It was the perfect closing scene for my onsen adventure. Traveling by train around Yamagatada’s hot spring towns is like following a trail of warmth through history. each stop. From the suluric slopes of Zho to the lantern lit streets of Ginszan, from the shogi baths of Tendo to the hidden healing waters of Hijiori and the castle shadows of Kaminoyama offered a completely different face of Japan. What tied them all together was the rhythm of the rails and the welcome of the waters. I’ve taken many trips in Japan, but this one reminded me how easy it is to step off the main tourist path and find places where time slows down. If you’ve ever dreamed of soaking in an outdoor bath while snow falls around you, put Yamagatada on your list. And if you enjoyed this journey, don’t forget to like, subscribe, and leave a comment telling me which Onsen town you’d love to visit first. Until next time, happy travels.
Step aboard Japan’s scenic trains and journey into the heart of Yamagata — a land of ancient mountains, quiet valleys, and steaming onsen towns that feel untouched by time.
In this travel video, I’ll take you on an unforgettable onsen adventure by train across Yamagata Prefecture, Japan. From legendary sulfur baths and lantern-lit river towns to secret valleys where locals still carry buckets to the communal springs — this journey reveals the true soul of Japan’s hot spring culture.
Places Covered in This Video:
Zao Onsen – A mountain spa village over 1,900 years old, surrounded by pine forests and snowy slopes, famous for its sulfur-rich healing waters and winter “snow monsters.”
Ginzan Onsen – A postcard-perfect riverside town with Taishō-era wooden ryokan, gas lanterns, and the magical Shirogane Waterfall.
Tendo Onsen – Japan’s “Shogi Town,” where handcrafted chess pieces and silky smooth onsen baths meet small-town charm and local hospitality.
Hijiori Onsen – A hidden valley onsen known for its peaceful atmosphere, healing mineral springs, and timeless lifestyle of its residents.
Kaminoyama Onsen – A historic castle town blending samurai heritage, beautiful footbaths, and panoramic views from Kaminoyama Castle.
Getting Around:
All destinations are easily accessible by JR trains and local buses from Yamagata City or Tokyo using the JR East Pass. This journey is perfect for slow travelers who love scenic train rides, authentic Japanese culture, and relaxing in natural hot springs.
Trip Highlights:
• Soaking in open-air baths surrounded by snow
• Staying in traditional wooden ryokan
• Exploring quiet streets lit by lanterns
• Tasting Yamagata’s local soba, Tendo beef, and seasonal snacks
•Meeting locals who keep onsen traditions alive
Travel Tip:
Visit in winter or early spring for the most cinematic scenery — snow, steam, and solitude. Don’t forget a small towel and coins for public bathhouses!
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