Birthday Hike in Tamba : Mt Kokūzō 虚空蔵山 兵庫県

Another birthday in the mountains of Japan. I set out on a variation route up to Mt Kokūzō. But first – a stop at Sakatare Jinja, a 14th century shrine. The route is unkept and abandoned, a stark contrast to the main route to the temple from below. Iwatsuji affords splendid mid-morning views. An image of Kokūzō Bosatsu appeared on this very rock to Prince Shotoku in a dream, inspiring him to erect a temple in its honor. I push ahead carefully toward the main temple sanctuary further above. The summit plateau appears through a gap in the foliage – still a ways to go. Ancient stone steps lead to the main temple complex. The temple was built to honor Kokūzō Bosatsu, who personifies wisdom and compassion. I only wish Akechi Mitsuhide had exercised such compassion when he burned this temple to the ground during the Siege of Tamba in the late 16th century. Fortunately, the temple was rebuilt a short time after, but now all that remains in this main worship hall. I negotiate the steep slopes in search of a view. And am rewarded for my efforts on the aptly-named Tamba Iwa. I take in the panoramic views. A short time later, I reach the true summit of Mt Kokūzō and celebrate by eating a special birthday lunch of hot curry & rice. The ridge narrows on the far side of the summit plateau, with few signs of foot traffic. Just the way I like it. I leave the ridge and drop back down to the valley below. A perfect way to celebrate another year on this earth in the hidden mountains of the Tamba region.

Nestled on the border of Sanda and Tamba-Sasayama sits the mighty Mt Kokūzō, one of my favorites hikes in Kansai. I celebrate my birthday with a climb up a previously-unexplored variation route via Iwasuji.

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