Japan Rural Onsens Away from Everyday Convenience

Japan Rural Onsens Away from Everyday Convenience

Hi! Today, we’re staying at an onsen ryokan that you can only reach by boat. Heading to Shin-Takaoka Station, about three hours from Tokyo by Shinkansen. This is our first trip to Toyama Prefecture. So excited. We’ve arrived at Shin-Takaoka Station! Shin-Takaoka Station opened in 2015 along with the Hokuriku Shinkansen. We’re getting on the bus at stop #3 at the South Exit, heading to “Komaki.” The bus doesn’t come often, but having a shopping mall and cafes nearby is convenient. Since the timing is a bit tight for us, we’ll wait in the bus terminal. We bought “Beaver,” a rice cracker you can only find in the Hokuriku region. I can’t open it. It’s so delicious, I’m addicted. The bus we’re taking departs at 12:50. It takes about an hour and a half to reach the port at the final stop, Komaki. It’s quite a long ride. Typhoon No. 10 was approaching at the time, but I’m glad it’s sunny. Our bus stop, Komaki, is located near Komaki Dam on the Sho River. Oh, once we see the river, we’re almost there. The bus fare is 1,100 yen per person, paid in cash when you arrive. The boat terminal is right next to the bus stop! Could that be our boat? “Next boat at 2:00 PM.” The round-trip ticket is 3,400 yen (24.13 USD / € 21.77) per person. You can pay by card, too. The ryokan is along Komaki Dam Lake on the Sho River, only accessible by boat. It seems that other guests came to the port by car, not by bus. Boarding starts 10 minutes before departure. What a beautiful wilderness! The river is so clean. Look, a fish! Okay, we’re setting off. It takes about 30 minutes from the port to the ryokan by boat. It’s quite a journey to get there. But that difficulty is part of the charm. This boat operates daily with no regular holidays. What you see coming into view is the Old Toga Bridge. It used to be a suspension bridge connecting to a village settlement. But due to the village disappearing and a fire, this is what remains. The rugged architectural beauty in the heart of nature is truly striking. The second-floor outdoor seats let you feel the breeze. It’s so refreshing. One of the highlights of this boat trip is the two red arch bridges. The first one is the Nagasaki Bridge. The second one is Toga Bridge. It’s bigger and newer than Nagasaki Bridge. Oh, look at this cute little one! >> Announcement: We are about to arrive at Omaki Ryokan. >> Announcement: Before docking, we will guide you to a place where you can see Omaki Onsen. >> Announcement: This is a view only visible from the boat. Wow! We finally see it!!! Amazing! It’s like it’s floating on the river. This is truly a one-of-a-kind location. And with that, we’ve safely arrived. Thank you very much. It truly feels like we’re in a hidden spot. It’s nice to be out here, far from everything. “Beware of bears!” The ryokan has a long, narrow building that stretches along the river. This onsen has a long history, first discovered in 1183. In 1930, the original hot spring was submerged when Komaki Dam was built. After that, they built a new facility at the current location, and this ryokan began operating in 1931. Here’s the lobby. It’s a shared public space. It has a nostalgic and cozy atmosphere that feels nice. With the irori hearth and traditional Japanese decor, it’s charming. The signal is weak, but there’s Wi-Fi throughout the building. Now, let’s head to our room. The hallways are filled with various artworks, making it feel like a small art gallery. It’s apparently also famous as a location for suspense dramas. We saw many celebrity autographs on display. Since the building stretches along the river, the hallways are long. Here’s the men’s outdoor bath. And this is the indoor bath. The baths are scattered throughout the building, which is interesting. Our room is on the 3rd floor. There are only three rooms on the 3rd floor. It seems like it’s been renovated. Everything looks so clean. The name of the room is “Kyuka.” With both meals included, it costs 47,300 yen (335.25 USD / € 302.69) per person. Let’s first check out the room on the right. And lots of sofas, too. We found the room key on the desk. The welcome snack is Omaki Onsen senbei. It’s a rice cracker with sugar and aonori sprinkled on top. The sweet and salty combo is addictive. There’s also a TV in front of us. When we open the roller blinds… The river is right in front of us! Oh, so many dragonflies. We passed by a small area near the entrance. Here’s the kitchenette. There’s a sink, a Japanese tea set, and other items. The restroom. It also has a small sink, and it’s very clean. Huh? There’s another restroom next door! That’s convenient. This room is 205 square meters, the largest in this ryokan. It can accommodate 2 to 4 people. The tatami room. It’s spacious. It’s beautiful. You can go outside from here. In autumn, it’s full of colorful leaves, and in winter, covered in snow. Must be amazing. There’s another TV here, too. At the back, there’s the bedroom. And a fridge. The drinks inside are not free. Bottled beer: 880 yen (6.23 USD / € 5.63). I poured it perfectly. It’s cold and delicious. Perfect. There’s another door here. Here’s the washroom. Wait. There’s a third restroom. Why? To the right of the sink is the bathroom area. It’s a regular bath with a shower. And further back is the outdoor onsen bath! The hot spring produces 360 liters of water per minute. It’s always fresh. The water’s hot, so I’m adding cold from the tap. This hot spring is a mix of chloride and sulfate spring waters. It’s clear, but you can smell the sulfur in the air. Since there’s no window, the outside air and some bugs can come in. There are yukatas available in different sizes. I think I’ll go with size S. There are public baths here, so let’s visit them during our stay. You can move around the inn in slippers. All the baths are located on the first floor. For men, there’s a large bath, an outdoor bath, and a terrace bath. For women, there’s a large bath, an outdoor bath, and a medium bath. First, I’m heading to the women’s large bath. (Filming after hours.) Going down even more steps. The moisture from the baths gives the area a cave-like feel. The changing area. There are 3 sinks, plus hair dryers and skincare products available. Beautiful. There are plenty of shower stations. And they have shampoo and soap. There’s not only a large bathtub, but also a small one in the corner. This one has a lower temperature, with mountain spring water added in💧. In the large bathtub, the one at the back is deeper and hotter. Now, my husband is heading to the men’s outdoor bath. There’s no shower area, so come after the large bath or your room’s bath. You can use it from 6:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m♨️. It’s about a one-minute climb up the stairs. At the top, there’s a structure that looks like a shrine. It’s such a wild, natural setting. This is where you undress. And here’s the outdoor bath! The bathtub is shaded by a roof, so it’s well protected from the sun. This bath is located at the back of the building, so you can’t see the river. But the rocky surroundings and the wild atmosphere are really something. Next, let’s check out the men’s terrace bath. A beautiful bath with the river right in front of you! There’s a transparent wall on the river side. But it still feels really open. There are two baths, and the one at the back is hotter. We’ll visit the other baths after dinner. Now it’s time for dinner. The dishes are already set out. It looks delicious! Filet steak. Japanese appetizer. Sashimi. Simmered vegetables and shrimp. The pot has a curry flavor. I ordered a set to compare three types of sake. They’re all local sake. So good. The chopstick rest is cute. Let’s eat. Crab with crab miso. Fresh seafood caught in the Sea of Japan. There’s no fishy smell, and it tastes amazing. Having a curry hotpot at a ryokan is pretty unique. The aroma is appetizing, and the vegetables are sweet and delicious. Delicious Japanese cuisine and sake after a nice soak in the onsen… Awesome. The tempura has arrived. I had no idea tofu tempura could be this good. Shrimp jade steam. It’s so plump! Here it is—filet steak! The aroma of the melting butter is irresistible. As you can see, it’s so delicious. Silver cod and eel. Both are rich and full of flavor. And finally, local rice cooked with various ingredients. Cooked in a mini pot, it’s hot with a crispy bottom. There were many dishes, and the portions were large. We are incredibly full. For dessert, we have melon. Thank you for the meal. Let’s check out the women’s medium bath. (Filming after hours with permission.) Even though it’s a “medium” bath, it’s actually quite spacious. It’s an indoor bath, but you can enjoy nature through the large windows. Now, let’s head to the women’s outdoor bath. The wildlife and falling rock signs are a bit scary. The outdoor bath is open from 6:00 a.m. to 9:00 p.m♨️. I came here around 9:00 p.m… and it was pitch dark, and the wind and bugs were pretty scary. But this kind of location is what makes it feel so remote and special. Here’s the changing room. And the outdoor bath is just beyond it. Let’s check the water temperature. It’s quite hot. Surrounded by nothing but nature. What a stunning view. It feels like we’re sharing this bath with the local wildlife. I bet bears come here for a dip too. Actually, there’s another outdoor bath further in. It’s hard to find when it’s dark, giving it a secret hideaway kind of feel. This bath has a unique shape, carved right out of the rock face. It can just fit two adults. The snug size is surprisingly comforting. This is what it truly means to escape from everyday life. A special hot spring to escape daily life and fully relax your mind and body. Phew, we’re back in the room. Today is a digital detox day. Now it’s time to sleep. There are two beds. The bedding is firm, so we should be able to sleep well. Good night. Good morning! It’s windy today. It’s time for breakfast. Just like dinner, breakfast features Japanese cuisine using ingredients from Toyama. There are dishes like simmered pumpkin and pickles. There are more vegetables than at dinner, making it feel healthier. Wow, the noodles are pink. The view from the window is beautiful, making it a refreshing morning. The tofu hot pot is so fluffy. Thank you for the meal. You can rent fishing gear with bait for 1,000 yen (7.10 USD / € 6.40). There are so many dragonflies. Hmm…we heard you can usually catch rainbow trout and dace easily here… But maybe because of the typhoon, we didn’t catch anything today. Check-out is by 10:00 a.m. Of course, we have to take the boat to get back as well. It was a truly special stay, surrounded by nature in such a remote place. The scenery, hot springs, meals, and kind staff all healed our minds and bodies. Hi! Today, we’re staying at a charming hot spring inn in Gunma Prefecture. We’re heading to Jomo-Kogen Station, about 70 minutes by Shinkansen from Tokyo Station. It’s a bit gloomy now, but it should clear up soon. We’ve arrived at Jomo-Kogen Station! The samurai dolls are cute. Jomo-Kogen Station is quite small for a Shinkansen station. It’s best to take the Shinkansen that matches the ryokan’s free shuttle bus schedule. The bus runs once a day. Make sure to reserve in advance. It’s about a 45-minute drive from Jomo-Kogen Station. That’s quite far. This area is known for heavy snowfall and is popular for skiing in the winter. Oh, we’ve arrived at our inn for today. This hot spring inn has seven thatched-roof houses on a large property. >> Staff: Welcome. Hello. The hotel’s name, “Yutorian,” means “leisure,” reflecting its relaxing atmosphere. It’s also popular as a day-trip hot spring. The reception is right at the entrance. It looks impressive. The wood beams and the ceiling of this thatched-roof house, which is over 140 years old, are magnificent. The umbrella decorations are gorgeous. The interior is full of decorations, making it a sight to see. There’s a souvenir shop right nearby. And in the back, there’s a gallery displaying antique items. Here, you can see old household items used from the 1600s to the early 1900s. These items, made by craftsmen of the past, are very delicate. Even though they were actually used, they are in excellent condition and very beautiful. >> Staff: Now, let me show you to your room. >> Staff: We have yukata available for adult female guests. >> Staff: Please choose the one you like. The inn is very spacious, and apparently, our room is quite far. >> Staff: I will guide you with a cart. Please wait while I prepare it. We’re heading to our room in an interesting way. It’s a cart! It’s kind of cute. It can hold up to four people, so it’s okay for families. >> Staff: I will take you to your room with this cart. >> Staff: This cart is self-driving. >> Staff: You don’t need to operate it. Please take any seat you like. Let’s go! Wow. It’s slow and steady. There’s also a walking path, and walking might actually be faster. But it’s quite fun. It’s great for people who have difficulty walking. After about five minutes of riding… We arrived at the accommodation wing on the second floor. The inn is large, but there are only 18 rooms. The largest room is 130 sq m with a six-meter-high ceiling. >> Staff: Today, we will take the monorail to room 501. Wow, we’re even riding a monorail. >> Staff: The height of room 501, which we will now guide you to, is at the same elevation as the Tokyo Skytree. >> Staff: It is 634 meters above sea level. We’ve climbed from the second floor to the fifth floor. There’s also an observation deck above. It’s rare to have a cart and a monorail. It’s interesting. The slightly retro vehicles match the atmosphere of the inn, which is even better. Phew. We finally arrived at our room. Huh? What? Do we still have to walk? Where is our room? Still more stairs! It’s really far. >> Staff: Your room for today is room 501, “Miyako-wasure.” Thank you very much for escorting us all the way here! We take off our shoes at the entrance. There are so many doors. Let’s try going this way. A Japanese-style irori (sunken hearth) room. It’s charming and lovely. Shoji paper doors let in the outside light. I wonder what the view is like. Wow. A serene countryside view with expansive fields. Beautiful! The natural sounds are wonderful, making you forget the city’s noise. Next to the irori table is a mini bar. Teacups and glasses. What’s this? A coffee set. An electric kettle, a coffee machine, and a green tea set. There’s a small refrigerator underneath. On the table, there is cold water and snacks. There are two kinds. Yay. Yokan and sesame rice crackers. The green tea is an original blend of the ryokan. The table is a sunken kotatsu, so you can sit comfortably. Good. The TV is in the perfect spot. There’s also free Wi-Fi. Above the TV, there are a phone and notepads. This is amazing. Is it carved from wood? Next to the irori room, there’s an 8-tatami mat room. This room has a high ceiling, giving a sense of openness. A sloped ceiling utilizing the triangular roof. The wood beams are impressive too. There’s Mt. Fuji. It’s originally a transom, but using it as a wall decoration is a great idea. It’s a dyed textile called tsutsugaki. In the back, there’s a bedroom with a wooden floor. It’s a tatami bed. There’s also a TV here. It’s flanked by God statues. They’re kinda cute. There are various items under the TV, but I guess they are decorations? When you go out from here… You reach the corridor leading to the entrance. Let’s try opening this door. The washbasin and bathroom. Skincare products. Perfect. A place to put your accessories. The sparrow is cute. By the way, this is a mirror. Cotton set. Shower cap. Hair tie. Razor. Hairbrush. Toothbrush. Hairdryer. Bath towels, and a hand towel in a drawstring pouch. A beautiful bathroom with a view of the outside scenery. It’s not a hot spring, but it’s spacious and nice. There’s a full set of shampoo and conditioner. You can go directly outside from the bathroom. It feels like we’re in the mountains. There might be some wild animals around, but it’s just my opinion. It’s cool and refreshing. Wow, you can really see that the building is on a slope. Amazing. When returning to the room, be sure to close the window properly to keep insects out. The restroom uses a Japanese garden technique called ‘suikinkutsu.’ The falling water echoes, making a pleasant clinking sound. Next to the restroom is… a walk-in closet. It has the original yukata and the colorful yukata I chose earlier. There are also jackets for yukata, and pajamas. There are several kinds of obi. Which one should I choose? It’s a nice room. Let’s go exploring a bit. We heard there’s an observation deck above, so let’s go check it out. Here it comes. It comes pretty quickly if it’s not crowded. It’s surprisingly spacious and can hold up to 10 people. The observation deck is open until 5:30 PM. Surrounded by trees. And the expansive countryside view! It’s cloudy so we can’t see the mountains, but it’s still beautiful. Two-thirds of Gunma Prefecture is covered in forests. Feel the fresh air. Alright, let’s go back down. The inn is spacious, so getting around is a bit challenging. But there are many paths and exhibits, making it enjoyable. There are over 1,100 exhibits throughout the inn. It’s like a museum you can stay in. We’ve come to see the nagayamon gate at the entrance of the inn. It’s a place you might pass by when you arrive at the ryokan. But it’s very impressive and worth seeing. You can go up to the second floor via stairs. There’s a small observation deck and resting area. The backside of the thatched roof. It feels like we’ve stepped back in time. There’s also a charming courtyard. The early summer greenery is beautiful. These stairs are a bit scary, haha. In front of the inn is just fields. And mountains in the distance. The sky looks so wide. It makes me feel nostalgic. It’s just the right season for rice planting. The rows are so neat. Soon, the fields will soak up water, turning vibrant green in summer. In autumn, they’ll turn golden with the harvest. One of the charms of the rice field landscape is experiencing the four seasons. By the way, you can rent a bicycle to explore around. Now, let’s head to the hot springs. This traditional-looking door seems heavy, but it’s actually automatic. It’s a bit amusing. I’ve arrived at the gender-separated onsen bath for guests. Let’s relax. This is the women’s bath (filmed with permission outside operating hours). The changing room. It’s spacious and clean. Complete with hairdryers and skincare products. Once you put your belongings in a basket, let’s go. First, the indoor bath. It looks nice! There are plenty of shower booths. The large bath with a view of the outside through big windows. And here’s the open-air bath! Wow, a charming bath with a Japanese garden. It has a faint sulfur smell. The water is free-flowing from the source and has a soft, slightly viscous feel. The water is simple alkaline hot spring, which is said to make your skin smooth. It also has a wide range of benefits for neuralgia, muscle pain, and joint pain. The temperature is just right and feels very pleasant. It’s the type of hot spring you can soak in for a long time. The garden in front is charming and very beautiful. Look, a crane. Oh, there are two of them! With a calm atmosphere, this hot spring is healing even to the soul. By the way, this is what the men’s bath looks like. The garden is a bit different. While the women’s bath has cranes, the men’s bath has lions. There are almost no streetlights, so it gets very dark at night. It’s time for dinner. We’re having a course meal made with seasonal ingredients from Gunma Prefecture. >> Staff: My name is Kyan, and I will be serving your dinner tonight. >> Staff: Let me explain the dishes for you. >> Staff: This is the appetizer. >> Staff: The flavors are well balanced, so please enjoy them along with the menu. We’ll be cooking rice in a kamado (traditional Japanese stove.) We also ordered the inn’s original label extra dry sake. Cheers! Let’s eat. The appetizer includes eel, whelk, and firefly squid dishes. The rich flavors go well with sake. I might drink too much. >> Staff: This is shrimp and fish cake and yuba soup. Please enjoy it while it’s warm. The round yuba is cute. >> Staff: This is tuna, handmade konjac, and hairtail fish. The texture is firm and delicious. Konjac is a specialty of Gunma Prefecture. It’s often served with sashimi at inns in Gunma. Squid Korean-style salad. It’s served with a spicy sauce. It’s rare to have a Korean-style dish at an inn. Gunma pork steamed hot pot. It looks shiny and goooood. We’ll eat it with sesame sauce. >> Staff: This is uguisu manju. The mochi is chewy with nothing inside. It pairs well with the warm starch sauce. The rice in the kamado is ready! The sukiyaki is also ready. Sukiyaki needs to be eaten with egg. Sukiyaki is a Japanese hot pot with a sweet soy sauce broth. The meat is Joshu beef from Gunma. It’s tender and incredibly delicious. There are many dishes and it’s very filling. With two meat dishes, it’s quite satisfying. The seasoning is traditional and subtle, so it’s easy to eat. Happily full. The final dessert is chocolate cake. The reclining bunny is cute. Thank you for the meal. The nighttime atmosphere is also wonderful. I like that it not only has a “good old” feel but also a sense of style. Let’s go back to our room. We are home. I wonder how it is outside. At night, the frogs’ croaking echoes. Goodnight. Good morning. Coffee to wake us up. Today, we woke up to the morning sunlight streaming through the shoji and the sound of birds. What a peaceful morning. Breakfast is in the same place as last night’s dinner. It’s a luxurious Japanese breakfast. The mackerel is large. Roast beef. Yum! I feel happy when there’s natto at a onsen inn’s breakfast. Joushu specialty Himokawa Udon. It’s flat and wide udon noodles. Smooth and perfect for the morning. There’s also salad, tamagoyaki, and even daifuku for dessert. So much variety. A healthy meal that fills both body and soul. Everything was good. Thank you for the meal. Checkout is by 10 AM. The fee is 54,000 yen (343.04 USD / € 317.59) per night for 2 people with 2 meals. Not only did we experience the healing of hot springs and natural scenery, but also enjoyed the rare exhibits of antique items and the monorail. It was a very fun stay! They also have special accommodation plans for international travelers, so be sure to check their official website. Hi! Today, we’re experiencing toji, Japan’s traditional hot spring therapy. The inn we’re staying at is located in Hanamaki City, Iwate Prefecture. First, we’ll head to Ichinoseki Station, about two and a half hours from Tokyo by bullet train. You can go directly or transfer once at Sendai Station to get there. In mid-December, it seems there’s still no snow in the Sendai area of Miyagi Prefecture. We’ve arrived at Ichinoseki Station! Pikachu is so cute. Before transferring to the next train, we’ll do some shopping at a supermarket near the station. That’s because we’ll be cooking dinner ourselves in the shared kitchen at the inn tonight. Self-catering is one of the joys of staying at a traditional toji inn. Next, we’ll transfer to the train and head to Hanamaki Station. The train view has turned snowy! The mountains in the distance are so beautiful. We’ve arrived at Hanamaki Station! From here, we’ll take a bus. Hanamaki is known as the hometown of Shohei Ohtani. It’s also the hometown of the famous author Kenji Miyazawa. There’s a free shuttle, but the local bus fits our schedule better today. Either way, the buses don’t run frequently, so it’s best to check the timetable in advance. If you take the public bus, it’s about a 25-minute ride. You can also use transportation IC cards on public buses. Even inside the bus, it’s much colder than in the Kanto region. The air feels so crisp and chilly. The hot spring inn is just across the road from the bus stop. It’s at the end of a gentle slope. The road isn’t covered in snow, so it’s easy to walk. The inn has two accommodation buildings and one gallery building. That’s “Sansuikaku,” a luxurious onsen ryokan with modern architecture. We’re staying over there! It’s “Jisuibu,” a 200-year-old building. ‘Toji’ refers to staying for a few days to weeks at a hot spring area to heal illnesses or injuries with the benefits of the hot springs. During Japan’s rapid economic growth, many hot spring areas turned into tourist spots, leaving few toji inns today. This inn is a historic toji inn where guests can still enjoy self-catering. Unlike typical ryokan, this inn offers a traditional experience that may feel challenging for first-time travelers. Next to the reception area, there’s a cozy lounge that feels like an old Japanese living room. There are old photos and ornaments, creating a nostalgic atmosphere. To the left of the reception is a shop. Along the hallway, you’ll find refrigerated and frozen foods. It’s open from 7 AM to 9 PM. Since self-catering is the main focus, they offer a wide variety of products. It might even have more options than some convenience stores. They also have a lot of alcohol. The shop itself is spacious and feels like a small supermarket. You can find everyday items like shampoo and toothbrushes. They also sell paper plates, plastic wrap, and seasonings. They even have ginger and noodle sauce, with more seasonings available than I expected. They even have instant ramen. You’ll also find local souvenirs like rice crackers and sake. Now, let’s head to our room and enjoy the inn’s traditional atmosphere along the way. The building is over 200 years old, but it seems to have been renovated and expanded multiple times. As a result, its structure feels like a maze. From the windows in the hallway, you can see the courtyard. Walking down the creaking hallways… you’ll find the shared kitchen and washroom on the left. The inn features paper doors throughout, which mostly serve as partitions to guest rooms. Sound travels easily, so be sure to walk quietly. The gallery building, “Kikusui-kan,” is connected by a bridge, but it’s closed during the winter. Apparently, they had a Ghibli exhibition here recently. It seems the producer of Studio Ghibli is fond of this inn. The air is freezing. It’s so cold outside! Our room is located on the second floor. We’ll take the stairs to get there. It feels like the floor has a slight slant in some areas. The restroom, bath, and washroom are shared. The restroom is a clean and standard Western-style toilet. After changing into slippers at the entrance of the inn, we brought our outdoor shoes here. The door has a basic lock that can be secured from inside the room. It’s a very simple 8-tatami mat Japanese-style room. The nostalgic atmosphere is charming, yet it feels clean and comfortable. But it’s freezing, so a kotatsu is essential in winter! Let’s also turn on the heater. Here, rental items like futons and yukatas are added to the room rate, following a traditional pricing method. Even heating appliances have rental fees—for example, a heater costs 660 yen. This means you can save money by bringing what you need with you. I’ll reveal the total cost, including rental fees, at the end of the video. So warm! But I still can’t take off my coat. The temperature in the late afternoon is -1°C (30.2°F). By midnight or early morning, it’ll drop to as low as -6°C (21.2°F). On the table, there’s a set for Japanese tea. I wonder if the tea leaves are blended with various types? It feels quite unique. There’s also an electric kettle. The tea is rich in flavor and delicious. You can use the TV and free Wi-Fi here. The TV stand and shelves have a warm, nostalgic charm. There’s nothing stored inside them. When you open the shoji doors… you’ll see an indoor veranda facing the gallery building “Kikusui-kan” and the Toyosawa River. The area near the windows feels especially cold. The icicles are amazing. Even though it’s probably cold enough, I’ll put the groceries we bought in the fridge just to be safe. This is my first time seeing this kind of gas stove. It looks a bit scary to use. Now that the room tour is over, let’s head to the hot springs. The main purpose of toji is to soak and rejuvenate your body and mind. Enjoy the time with no plans and embrace the luxury of doing nothing. The toji building has three bathing areas. First, let’s visit the gender-separated indoor bath, “Yakushi no Yu.” (Filming permission was granted.) You need to bring your own bath towel or buy one at the shop. At the bottom of the spiral staircase, there’s a dressing area. It’s simple, with tatami-like mats and storage areas for your belongings. There’s one vanity table with a hairdryer. The bath has a nostalgic tiled design. There are two bathtubs—one with lukewarm water and one with hotter water. They’re also different depths. There are washing areas as well. Wow! It’s really hot. So hot!! The women’s open-air bath, “Kawabe no Yu,” isn’t connected to the indoor bath. Since soap isn’t allowed here, you need to wash yourself in the indoor bath first. In front of the door, there’s a small dressing and wash area. Once you open the door, the open-air bath welcomes you immediately. There’s a partial screen, but you can enjoy the view of the river flowing right in front of you. The water feels extremely hot, but maybe it’s because my body is cold from the weather. The hot spring at Osawa Onsen is an alkaline simple spring. It’s gentle on the skin and non-irritating. It’s said to help with neuralgia, muscle pain, and more. And the alkaline water also softens and exfoliates the skin, leaving it smooth. It was a refreshing bath surrounded by nature! Now, let’s prepare dinner in the shared kitchen. The kitchen has almost all the pots, plates, and utensils you need. Let’s start cooking with the ingredients we bought earlier at the supermarket. This is one of the highlights of the Toji experience. There are cutting boards and peelers in the kitchen, which is reassuring. First, I’ll peel the potatoes. For safety reasons, only knives aren’t kept in the kitchen, so you need to borrow one from the front desk. They sell seasonings and food at the shop, so you’ll be fine unless you have very specific preferences. A row of gas stoves One 10-yen coin gives you about eight minutes of usage. I wonder how old it is. You just need to light it with a gas lighter. You’ll need to bring or buy cooking oil. The oil sold at the shop comes in large sizes, so I’m glad I bought meat packs with beef tallow. The stove’s flame is pretty strong, but you can adjust it using the gas valve. Cooking is fun, but making something like ramen that just needs hot water might be the easiest. There’s also a microwave and toaster oven, so ready-to-eat meals are a great option. Since this might take a while, let’s soak the ingredients in water. Oops, I added too much water. I forgot to add the onions. While the food is cooking, I’ll do the dishes. Since the items are shared, it’s important to clean them thoroughly and put them back. It’s bubbling nicely. After about eight minutes, the stove automatically turns off. There’s a machine to exchange 100-yen coins for 10-yen coins here. Let’s insert another coin and relight the stove. Today’s key ingredient is a Japanese yakiniku sauce. With this, it becomes a dish similar to nikujaga, a home-style Japanese dish. I know nikujaga usually requires several seasonings, but I figured it’d be too much trouble to bring or buy them. Looks delicious, doesn’t it? We also bought a pre-made kinpira gobo (stir-fried burdock and carrots) at the supermarket. There’s actually a dining hall called “Yahagi,” so you don’t have to cook if you don’t want to. You can also pre-order rice for 200 yen and miso soup for 150 yen. We decided to go for it and ordered both. Let’s eat. This is so good. I don’t even know why. It might’ve been a good idea to buy some local pickles from the shop. The rice and miso soup from the dining hall are also good. We’re only staying for one night this time. But most people stay longer, enjoying the hot springs and meals at their own pace each day. It combines the comfort of being at home with the extraordinary charm of old traditions and culture. It’s a one-of-a-kind experience. After finishing the meal, we return the borrowed dishes. Let’s take them to the kitchen and wash them thoroughly. It’s great to have hot water right from the tap. The shared kitchen is a place where guests gather. It makes it a great spot to interact. There are almost no young guests staying here. And many seem to be regulars who’ve been coming for years. There were also groups of people, occasionally creating a warm, lively atmosphere. Some might find the community here overwhelming, while for others, it’s part of the charm. Thank you very much. Here’s how it looks outside at night. With the snow, it feels so magical. The riverside is beautifully lit up like this. Now, let’s visit the mixed open-air bath, “Osawa no Yu.” Although it’s a mixed bath, it becomes women-only every day from 8 PM to 9 PM. (Filming was allowed outside of hours..) This spacious open-air bath offers incredible views. “Even bugs and leaves love the hot springs.” The back part of the bath and the changing area have roofs. There’s a small tap in the back. For women, there’s a separate dressing room with doors for privacy. However, bath towels and swimsuits aren’t allowed, so entering during mixed hours can be intimidating. It says the front area has lukewarm water, while the back is hotter. Once you get in, it feels incredibly hot! But it’s so relaxing. The contrast between the chilly air and the warm onsen is just perfect. The water temperature becomes a bit milder as you move to this area. Above all, the view is breathtaking. The snow-covered landscape beyond the rising steam is absolutely stunning. It makes you want to stay here forever. During the women-only hour from 8 PM to 9 PM, it’s too dark to enjoy this view, which is a shame. If you want to enjoy the scenery during the day, I recommend visiting the women-only open-air bath. By the way, from the bridge, the bath is quite visible like this. After the bath, we did some shopping at the shop. The adorable candy corner brought back childhood memories as I picked out my favorites. We also bought some drinks to prepare for a little party. Before heading back to the room… An older gentleman suggested putting a kettle of water on the stove, so we gave it a try. The steam helps humidify the room. (Handle with care!) Alright, time for the party to begin. Drinking milk beverages after an onsen is a classic Japanese tradition. This one is yummy—I love it. Here’s some gum where one out of three pieces is super sour. They all look the same. Which one should I pick? Mmm, tasty. Let’s try a second piece. Whoa—so sour! Cheers with local craft beer and cola. In the shared washroom, the taps are left running to prevent freezing in the harsh cold. You can really feel how severe the cold is. You’ll need to bring your own toothbrush or purchase one at the shop. We’ll lay out our futons ourselves, of course. By the way, all bedding items, like futons, sheets, pillows, and blankets, come with additional fees. For example, a futon mattress costs 220 yen. Some guests even bring their own bedding. We fell asleep to the faint sounds of a party downstairs. Goodnight. Good morning. It was very cold during the night. For breakfast, we ordered a set meal from the dining hall instead of cooking ourselves. You can reserve breakfast when you check in. You can either eat it in the dining hall or take it back to your room. The breakfast set costs 800 yen (5.16 USD / € 4.97). Let’s dig in. It’s simple but flavorful, with a good variety of side dishes. The generous portion of rice made it feel quite filling. Everything tastes great. The round pieces of fu in the miso soup are so cute. You can also purchase extra items like natto and eggs. It was a healthy breakfast that nourished both body and mind. Thank you for the meal. Now, let’s head to the morning bath. Toji guests can also bathe in “Toyosawa no Yu,” located in another accommodation building. The bath was so steamy you could barely see three steps ahead! Here’s an image from the official website—it’s a spacious and beautiful bath. I feel so warm now. Our total stay cost for two people was 9,240 yen (59.29 USD / € 57.09), including around 3,000 yen for rental items. If you come with an understanding of Toji culture, it’s a truly great and affordable experience! A lone onsen inn standing in Japan’s snowy mountains. What makes this inn, with no signal and no electricity, but only lamps, so popular? Here, inconvenience turns into luxury, letting you forget everyday life and enjoy a peaceful time. Enjoy the journey with us until the very end. Hi! We’ve arrived at Shin-Aomori Station, which is three hours by Shinkansen from Tokyo Station. Aomori City is known as the “snowiest city in the world.” Today, we’re staying at a hot spring inn deep in the mountains where there is no electricity or signal. Transfer at Hirosaki from Shin-Aomori, then head to Kuroishi Station and take a shuttle to the inn. There can be delays or cancellations due to heavy snow, but it seems fine today. Aomori is located at the northernmost tip of Honshu, Japan’s main island. Hirosaki Station is about 40 minutes from Shin-Aomori Station. Outside the window, it’s just snow. Snow, snow, and more snow. We’ve arrived at Hirosaki Station. It’s quite a modern station. As expected from the Kingdom of Apples. There are lots of apple-themed objects. We’re getting on a train that’s almost buried in snow. It’s about a 35-minute ride from Hirosaki Station to Kuroishi Station. We’ve safely arrived at Kuroishi Station. The snow is piled so high, it’s taller than the people and cars. We’re getting on the free shuttle bus from the station to the inn. The inn is in a remote area with no signal, about 40 minutes by car from Kuroishi Station. In winter, private cars are not allowed, so booking the shuttle bus is a must! If you’re driving, you’ll leave your car at the roadside station “Niji no Ko” and take the shuttle bus from there. The reason private cars are prohibited is because of this mountain road. The snow makes the road narrower, so cars can’t pass each other. The driver goes so fast to avoid the snow, it feels like a rollercoaster. This mountain road continues for about 6.5 km, so you might want to bring some motion sickness medicine. The snow often delays the bus, so today, it’s good we can move forward. We lost signal in the middle of the mountain road. We’ve arrived at the inn. There’s no electricity, no signal, and the only light comes from lamps at this hidden hot spring inn. Lamps are lit outside as well, creating a nostalgic atmosphere. The snow piling up on the roof is a bit scary. How many kilos of snow is this? Watch out above! There are no fluorescent lights, just lamps. The lobby has high ceilings, and sunlight streams through the windows. It smells like a kerosene stove. Since our phones don’t work, we have to use this landline to make a call. The signs inside use Tohoku dialect, which even many Japanese speakers can’t understand. The shop and café right inside the entrance looks like this. They sell local food, alcohol, original yukata, towels, and various other items. Check-in starts at 3 PM. Despite many foreign guests, most staff do not speak English which is a unique feature of the inn. She kindly explained the room location and key. Since some of the hot springs were unavailable, we were given a towel as a gift. This is our room on the first floor. The toilet and bath are shared. Here it is. Room 103. The kokeshi doll-like drawing on the key is cute. We didn’t get to choose our room type, so I think they all look about the same. It’s a simple Japanese-style room. The only light is from this lamp. Outside the window, it’s just snow-covered nature. Looks like some insects have come to visit too. Before it gets dark, we’ll check the guide that we were told to read. “The lamps are fragile, don’t touch!” There are also some guides available in English, Chinese, and Korean. The guide explains how to use the oil stove and how to set up the futon. The stove is essential, but it takes some time to heat up properly. Since we knew there were no shops around, we bought some gummies beforehand. But the inn’s shop actually had more snacks than I expected. There are no electronics or outlets in the room. The stove doesn’t even use electricity. There’s no phone signal either. We can’t charge our phones. Bath towels, face towels, and toothbrushes. A yukata set. Pillow covers and sheets. The sliding paper door has an interior lock. Hmm? How do I close this? Let’s try the indoor bath closest to our room. From 10 AM to 3 PM, there are day-use guests, but after 3 PM, it’s only available for overnight guests. There’s a shared washstand with a mirror. You can see stickers on the world map showing where the guests are from. There are a lot from the U.S., Europe, and Japan. If you go further, you’ll find the separate indoor baths for men and women. (Filming with special permission.) The changing room looks like this. There’s a stove here too, so it’s warm. In Japanese public baths, it’s customary to remove all clothing. Oh, this is a beautiful hinoki wood bath. The scent of hinoki wood is very calming. There’s no shower, so you scoop water with a bucket to wash. There’s shampoo and body soap, but no hairdryer, so be careful!! The hot spring is a colorless, clear simple spring. It’s smooth and mild, with no strong odor. The water’s not too hot, so you can stay in for a while. The windows are large, so it’s bright now. But at night, it’ll probably be pitch dark since it’s just lit by lamps. Let’s head outside the entrance and try the bath directly in front. Aoni Onsen actually has four types of baths, including a mixed-gender outdoor bath. However, due to a drop in the source temperature, only two types are currently available. They are drilling to increase the water flow and temperature, but haven’t seen the expected results. Soaking in Aoni Onsen’s natural spring water may become a rare experience in the future. This bath has a mountain hut-like atmosphere. It’s separated by gender, and the women’s bath is further inside. The changing room here is much bigger than the one in the indoor bath. This bath, made of hinoki wood, has a lot of charm. The ceiling is high, and light comes in through the windows. The bath is cleaned in turns every morning, but it’s open 24 hours a day. It’s great to be able to enjoy the hot spring whenever I want. This bath is hotter than the one I just used. It feels great to be fully immersed. The beams in the ceiling are really high. This bath also has a semi-outdoor section. Wow, the snow wall in the back is incredible. This is a unique bath. If you look left, there’s a snow view. The atmosphere will definitely change with the seasons. “Watch your head.” Let’s try the kettle-shaped bath. The water is a bit lukewarm, probably because it’s exposed to the outside air. I’m glad I warmed up in the indoor bath first. Unlike the spacious bath, this one feels more enclosed and cozy. It’s slowly warming up. Is the water from the kettle bath flowing down into the lower bath? That’s interesting. The lower bath might be cooler. The stone floor is really cold. Oops. It’d be a real problem if I got hurt here while naked. The water temperature is on the lower side, but it’s still quite pleasant. It’s full of nature, and it’s so soothing for both the mind and body. It was such a great bath. After 5 PM, it gets much darker inside. The light from the lamps becomes our only source of light. After 5:30 PM, it’s completely dark. There’s nothing to do, so we just relax and let the time pass by. It’s a full-on digital detox with no distractions. Dinner is from 6 PM to 8 PM. I’m really hungry now. We’re having dinner around the irori hearth with other guests. With only the light from the lamps, irori, and stove, you can’t tell what you’re about to eat. The miso soup, rice, and tea are self-service. I can’t see what’s in the miso soup. I wonder what it is. You can have as much miso soup and rice as you want. Each person has a salted trout grilled over the irori. Even the fire used for the pot is a precious source of light. Well then, let’s eat. It’s much darker to the naked eye than it looks through the camera, and I can barely see. But everything tastes great. Everything has a rustic, local flavor that fits perfectly with this environment. Sometimes it’s a little spicy, and I’m surprised by the unexpected flavors. I thought it was fried chicken, but it was actually deep-fried minced squid. The other guests were staying alone. We occasionally talk with other guests, but most of the time, we enjoy a very quiet meal. The pot is like sukiyaki, but I don’t think it’s beef. I can tell it’s delicious. This is definitely apple juice. I realized I’m relying on information that comes from my eyes even while eating. I’m full. Thank you for the meal. The atmosphere inside the inn becomes even more mystical at night. I want to try the bath in the dark, so I’m heading there now. It’s a bit nerve-wracking, like entering a completely dark cave. Actually, when I went to the shared restroom earlier, it was bright with fluorescent lights😮. They have some self-generated power. However, their self-generated power can only provide the minimum required electricity. The bath is completely pitch dark! I can’t see anything outside the window. It felt like my senses were becoming more heightened in the dark. It’s still early, but honestly, I’m starting to feel sleepy. Our room has only one lamp, so it’s the darkest. It’s so dark that I can’t even read a book, so I’m left with only shadow puppets to play with! We’ll lay out the futons ourselves. We’re covering ourselves with the blanket to stay warm. Turn off the stove before sleeping to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning. Good night. Good morning. It’s quiet, and I didn’t have any screen time, so maybe that’s why I slept so well. I feel like more snow has piled up since yesterday. The shop and café open at 7 AM. Coffee: 400 yen. There’s also a photo album of the inn in different seasons. It’s so comforting. Breakfast is from 7:30 AM to 8:30 AM. It’s in the same dining room as dinner. The room looks completely different when it’s bright in the morning. The miso soup and rice are self-service again this morning. Let’s eat. The fish is sweetly simmered. Everything is mild and perfect for breakfast. The dish on the left is konnyaku stew. I wonder what this is. It’s yam. The pot is an egg dish. The correct way to eat it is to cook the egg just enough so it stays creamy. Oh, the egg’s a bit set, but that’s fine. There’s a lot of green onion. It’s luxurious with scallops included. The return bus during winter leaves at 8:20 AM. So, it’s a little sad that we can’t relax after breakfast. It was a simple but delicious breakfast. The total cost for two with two meals was 27,500 yen ($184.86 / €172.19). We were able to relax and felt healed. I recommend this inn to those who can enjoy the inconvenience. Thank you for watch- The shuttle bus’s tires got stuck in the snow. Thank you for watching! See you next time.

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