【厚岸町】打卡景點新發現！名副其實的霧多布體驗平流霧 還有可愛的小狐狸
We rode down a small path. After that bumpy little road, it led us back to the seaside. We stayed in Kushiro for three nights, and now we’re leaving. We thought we’d stop by the train station to have a look. So many people waiting for the train. Where’s the timetable, I wonder? Oh, over there. Then where’s the ticket counter? Right up ahead. There should be two lines here. One goes to… the Senmō Main Line, and the other one is… the Nemuro Main Line. The Nemuro Main Line goes back toward Sapporo. That’s the Marshland Train! Hey, this drawing was made by the station master! With a whiteboard marker! So good! He drew it with a marker. Yeah. If you want a reserved seat, you have to pay an extra ¥840. It’s required. Mandatory. Yeah. Departure at 11:06. Strange, it’s summer peak season but only one train runs? In August… there are more trains in August. Weird. What’s the difference between July and August? Maybe not enough passengers? Everyone drives instead. It’s coming! Wow, it’s long! So many people boarding. Why is everyone sitting in the non-reserved cars? Non-reserved means no ¥840 fee, right? Right, right. See, the non-reserved car has windows. The observation car doesn’t. This non-reserved car looks just like a regular train car. Still, some people got on the open car. Looks like it’s full. Today’s plan is to ride along the coast from Kushiro, keep riding… and stay overnight in Hamanaka. That thing is so heavy. No human could push it. Yet the train engine can pull so many cars! Steam locomotives are really amazing. So many houses here too. Oh! A lot of people live in Kushiro. You said this is called Kombu Coast? No, Konbumori. “Mori” as in “forest.” That means… look, those floating things in the sea… they’re all kelp! Oh, so this is what real kelp looks like. So long! This one could make soup for months! Eat it every day for three months! Look, the root of the kelp looks like this. Here. Never seen it before. So that’s what the bottom of kelp looks like. It even looks like leaves! We’ve only ever seen the dried kind… or the rehydrated kind. So rough! First time touching it? Feels like rubber. Yeah, like plastic actually. Wait, could it be plastic? (laughs) Maybe it’s just floating trash. So that’s what kelp really looks like. First time touching one! This one might be too thick and old. Nobody wants it.
It’s my first time touching a fresh one. It doesn’t tear even when I fold it. If you fold it really hard, it can. You can cut it with scissors. Even with a lot of force, it just feels like it might crack a bit. This is only a small piece. It’s broken off. If it weren’t broken, I wonder how long it would be. On Google Maps— Everyone takes pictures of that place. Oh, really? But I think this kelp is more interesting. It’s my first time seeing it. There are so many varieties. This one’s different again. So many kinds. Wow. Look! Take a shot of how long this is. Hehehe. It looks like this when it’s dried. It’s not the same as the kelp I bought at Quanlian. The color’s different? Yeah. The drying method’s different. This one’s sun-dried naturally. The one from Quanlian is darker. Yeah, it’s really black. And the surface has some powder on it, right? It said “Beware of falling rocks” just now. And rocks really fell! Seriously! Whoa! Good thing it didn’t hit Ashun. People who live here must smell kelp all the time. It’s not exactly a pleasant smell. They’re probably so used to it by now. The air itself smells like kelp. Yeah, but I think they probably— Right. Totally used to it, can’t even notice anymore. I wonder if there’s an observation deck here? Yeah, there is. That’s where I’m going — an observation deck. Oh. Viewing plaza. This should be the highest point. The sea breeze is so strong that trees can’t grow. I feel like the sea breeze is colder than the mountain air. Are we almost there? Ah, we’re here. Yeah, almost. Here, here. Not a single car today. You brought me to another weird place again. Where do we park? Anywhere’s fine. Oh, there’s a baiku (motorbike) over there. But no one’s around. The whole parking lot— No people at all. Seems like the path leads to the shore. Let’s go that way. Yeah. Most of the place names in Hokkaido— Come from transliterations of the indigenous Aynu language. Just like our “Ulay,” which means “hot spring” in the Tayal language. And “Mataau” in Tainan comes from the Siraya people’s language. The words themselves don’t have any special meaning. Let’s just cross the road like this. And then… It looks like there’s only this one path. But is this even a real road? Whoa! Looks like it really is. Keep walking, and… We’re at the edge already. It has absolutely— Absolutely no railing. Just like that. No what? It really has no railing at all! You just keep walking and suddenly it’s the edge. Oh! Whoa! Hehehe. Ugh! Kind of scary… You can even go down further. Don’t go any farther! I don’t want to go any farther. Look, in the middle of the sea— Why is there a line there? I saw that line earlier when I was riding. Is it for farming something? Hmm… hard to tell. Not sure if it’s a fixed net or something else. Let me take a video. Can’t really see it. I can barely see it. Whoa, it’s really close! Look over here. Where exactly is that line? I can’t see from here. And then—it’s just the seaside. We’re right by the sea. Look, there’s nothing along the cliff edge. No railing anywhere. But if they built one, it would have to be really long. Forget it. It’s kind of foggy today. Otherwise, if the visibility were good, you could see that bay, and the opposite shore of it. Someone placed something out there in the sea. Like floating buoys or something. Could it be a fixed net? Doesn’t look like it. It just stops around there. Yeah, it ends at some point. It’s so long though! Wow, amazing. No idea what that is. Something floating out there in the sea. Someone must’ve set something up on the water. Can barely see it with the eyes. Too far away. This ocean is beautiful though. Yeah. We’re too close to the cliff edge. Good thing the wind isn’t too strong today. Just a bit stronger than a breeze. If you look closely, there are several kinds of grass here. This one with fuzzy little flowers—I don’t know the name. There’s a bamboo-like kind too. And this hairy-looking one. Not sure what kind it is, but it’s beautiful. And also this one. If you look closely, there are so many species. Any plant experts who can recognize these? What kinds are they? Do they grow in Taiwan too? They also have a nice fragrance. That fresh grassy smell. When the sea breeze blows up the slope, the scent of the grass rises up and the updraft carries it right into our noses. It’s a fragrant grassy smell— fresh and green. Smells really nice. There don’t seem to be any bugs in this grass. In Taiwan’s grass, grasshoppers always jump out when you step on it. But here, nothing. I don’t know why. Or maybe I just didn’t see any? I stepped on it, not a single grasshopper jumped out. Back home in Taiwan, you step on the grass and they jump everywhere. Beautiful. Hey, there are tire marks here. Someone drove down here. How did they even get down? From that road, maybe? I told you earlier, we could’ve ridden down. But you said no. Heh heh. There aren’t any cars at all. We’ve only seen like three cars along the way. Three cars in twenty kilometers. It’s such a comfortable ride today. It looks hot on camera, but the wind is only about 25 degrees. Maybe closer to 24. So actually, it feels a bit chilly when riding. Perfect for walking though. A bit cool for cycling. Hey, up there on the embankment! Yeah, looks like it. Wave breakers. Go around and take a look. One bird per rock? That’s what it looks like to me. Heh heh heh. Yeah, one bird on each block. It’s too far away though. Huh? You can’t zoom in on that? I can, but it’s a bit shaky. Oh, I see. Whoa. It’s swimming! It’s floating on the surface of the sea. Whoa, there’s a traffic light! We’ve ridden… 50 kilometers. And this is the first traffic light. There’s even a gas station. And a 7-Eleven! Wanna take a break? Either way’s fine. Up to you. Let’s grab an ice cream. Sure! This condensed milk fruit ice is so good. That white part is all condensed milk flavor. Here, look. There’s pineapple on top, strawberries and mandarin orange, and one blueberry. The condensed milk is really sweet, so it goes perfectly with the fruits. The strawberries are a little sour though. That makes it just right. Tastes like strawberry milk ice cream. The condensed milk flavor is really good. Here, have a bite. Ah! It ran away! That one’s huge! Wow, this road is so beautiful. Yeah. Oh wow, it’s really beautiful. Woo! This place is gorgeous! Pull over at that turnout on the right. Yeah, stop. Here, right here! Stop for a sec. Let’s film us riding through this part. Alright—speed up, let’s go! Heh heh heh. That’s a steep one! This part’s really steep! Go! Push it! Whoaaa! Feels like a roller coaster! Oh! This road is so beautiful! So pretty. Glad we took this route. It’s really gorgeous. Tomata Coast. We took a small winding road, up and down through the hills, and ended up by the sea again. Turns out there’s a scenic spot here. It’s called Semmoto Coast— uh, no, Tomata Coast! And this coast… there’s barely any parking. So we just stopped by the roadside. There aren’t any cars around anyway. What do people do if they drive here? Just park on the side, I guess. Huh? Isn’t this national park called “Kiritappu”… Yeah—Kiritappu. Look, that island is covered in fog. So misty. Actually, that’s not an island— it’s a peninsula. Yeah, one that juts right out into the sea. There’s a bridge connecting the middle part. Weird—how come it isn’t popular? Whoa… The coastline! That stretch just now was amazing. Hey, those— those locals, they see this view every day. I wonder if it still makes them happy—or bored? So today, we’re riding from Kushiro to Hamanaka. The route pretty much follows the coast. So we keep passing viewpoints and lookouts, and scenic observatories— places called “Boyo-dai,” stuff like that. And now, we’re at another one— Akkeshi Boyo-dai. The Akkeshi observation deck. Whoa, it’s all fog again, look! So misty. Ever since we got here, we’ve been seeing those signs put up by Akkeshi Town. They say “The Town of Capes, Flowers, and Fog.” “The city of flowers and mist.” Such a shame though— a train just passed by. Oh, really? Yeah, but we couldn’t film it; it’s down below. Ah. We only heard the sound. There’s really a lot of fog here. So much mist. Yeah. Look at that—so foggy over there. Completely fogged in. We’ll be riding straight into the fog soon. This place is so strange. It’s because of the sea temperature in the bay— that’s what causes all the mist. And it lasts all day, not just in the morning. The fog’s getting even thicker now. You can’t even see the peninsula anymore. You can really see it from here— that patch of fog is drifting left. The whole sea surface is covered in fog now. In just a few minutes, everything’s gone misty. That was fast! The whole ocean’s fogged over, even the mountains behind us are misty now. It took like five minutes for everything to fog up. Whoa! Can’t see anything now. Yeah, totally fogged in. That happened in just a few minutes! This is a wetland area again. Akkeshi Waterfowl Observation Center. We came here because, first, it’s easy to get to. It’s right by the road. Second, I saw photos on Google Maps looking out from here, and it looked really beautiful. And indeed, it’s a wetland. But it has water, unlike dry wetlands. Admission is free. I think wetlands look better when they have water. Wow, there are a lot of telescopes here. Look, there’s a train! There’s a railway bridge over there. Oh, so beautiful! If a train passes, it would look amazing. Over there is the sea. I think the scenery here is prettier than the place we visited yesterday. It’s smaller but looks nicer. Yes. There are aquatic plants, and water as well. Behind it is the sea. Behind the sea are mountains. Or maybe an island. Yes. There’s also a red iron bridge. I wonder what time the train passes. I don’t know, let me check. Hmm… we can’t catch a train now. The next one will come in about two hours. Oh! This is so beautiful. Amazing. There are so few cars along this road. It’s a pity no train is passing. In our country, this might be called a “mosquito museum,” Huh? A place like this with hardly any visitors in a day. Back home, it would get criticized as a “mosquito museum.” Hehe. But it’s really beautiful. Why isn’t anyone coming? From here, you can clearly see that the island we mentioned is actually a peninsula. It’s connected to the mainland at the back. So shaky. Oh my god! Time to climb! This one? Yes. Hehehehe. Ah~~~~ Where’s the parking lot? Maybe here. This isn’t a parking lot, right? Then under the bridge maybe. Otomoyama Observation Deck. I just noticed this spot while looking at the coastline. It was an impromptu discovery. And, from a distance, it looked like Yes, it’s very tall. We have to climb many levels to reach the observation deck. Wow. Let’s climb. From this deck, based on the photo, we can see the Akkeshi Bridge. The red bridge we crossed. We can also see the sea. And the houses. We’re staying in Hamana Town today. And, that area is quieter than here. There’s only one medium-sized supermarket nearby. It closes at 7 pm. Nearby restaurants also close at 5 pm. So I’m a bit worried. Wow! Oh. It has a way for people with strong arms to climb up like this. There’s a shrine in the lake. In the water, wow. It’s on this lake. They call it Akkeshi Lake. Huh~ how did they get it up there? I don’t know. Why hasn’t this become a photo spot? It’s not floating either. It’s solid. Or is the lake really shallow? There’s nothing around it. How did they get it up there? The stairs are so small. Just like the small stairs in European churches. Wow. Phew. Wow! There’s bird droppings all over here. Oh, right. This area is more open. Oh. Wow, such a wide area. And, this is a small town. Oh, is it shaking? Yes, it’s shaking. The tower is shaking. The observation deck. The tower is shaking. The observation deck is shaking. What’s going on? Is it okay? Ah~~ Yeah, hehe. Here, it’s a small town. And, the sea around here is foggy. Wow! Hehehe. The view is quite unique. But climbing uphill was a bit tiring. Huh? There’s no shrine marked on the map. Huh! Google Maps doesn’t have this shrine? Because it’s unreachable. It’s not marked. You can only get here by boat. Yes. The person who built this is amazing. How did they build it? And it’s actually quite beautiful. A bird just flew by. How did they build it? You can see its reflection. This really is a “mosquito museum.” We’re the only ones here. Seems like that place earlier was the same. But I think that earlier spot had quite a nice view. In summer there’s no one, what about winter? I think it’s because it’s hard to get here by train. You can only drive here. And if you drive but don’t have much time, you wouldn’t come this way. You’d probably go straight to Nemuro. Nemuro. To see the far east. Yes, the far east. Foxes are less afraid of people. Unlike deer, they don’t run away. Yeah, it’s looking at us. Mm. Hehe. Huh? It’s looking at us. Maybe because it’s backlit. It might not see clearly. Mm. The sun is in its eyes. It’s standing still. The little fox is hopping around. Huh? This one is small. It seems smaller. Yeah, a baby. Hopping around. Its walk is so cute. Yeah, can you get it on camera? Yes. Why is it walking crooked? Crooked, crooked. It takes three steps and looks at us. It’s afraid of people. Oh, there are quite a few. Yeah, scared of people. There are quite a few. Why are they so afraid? This sound must be scary. Hehe. There are so many deer here. We’ve seen them three times already. Wow! The fog seems thicker here. It’s like it’s raining. Hehehe. The fog is heavier. Huh? The fog is heavier here. Yeah. It’s so thick it’s like rain. The fog, condenses into water on the glass, like rain. Like a light drizzle. So it turns into water. The offshore waters of Hokkaido are influenced by a cold current from the north. When warm air from the south meets the cold seawater, advection fog forms. As long as there’s enough warm, moist air, the fog can last all day. This really is “Kiritappu.” Hehe. So much fog. This is the sea. Yeah. You can’t see the whole fishing port. It’s a foggy fishing port. Hehehe. Kiritappu. Wow. There’s an intersection here. Slow, slow, slow. Slow is good. Let’s go. Hehehe. You can’t see anything beyond the bridge. Wow, there’s a bridge too. Under the bridge… oh, it’s a harbor. I see, it’s a harbor. We’re at sea level now. How is there still so much fog? Wipe around the glass. All covered with water. Where are we? Ah! We’ve arrived. After a tough journey, we finally arrived at the inn in Hamanaka Town where we’ll stay tonight. We’re staying in Hamanaka because the distance from Kushiro to Nemuro is too far. So we looked for a midway point. And we ended up booking a hotel in Hamanaka. Now that I’ve entered this room, after riding the motorcycle so hard earlier, through all that thick fog, I feel like I’ve finally arrived at the hotel. It feels like a desert traveler finding an oasis. It has all the facilities. Earlier, when I was riding through that thick fog, those 30 kilometers were so exhausting. I was freezing while riding, because I wasn’t dressed warmly enough. I thought, “It’s summer, how cold can it be?” But riding in the fog earlier, my teeth were chattering constantly. Clattering as I clenched them. I’m still very cold now. And it’s not expensive. Today is Thursday, a weekday. So this room costs ¥12,000 per night. Inside the room, there’s also a Japanese-style room. Great, I have this extra space. Makes dinner time more relaxed. This room looks really big. I don’t know about the other rooms, but mine is huge. It’s a Western & Japanese-style double room. There’s also a futon mattress here—take a look. The window overlooks the neighbor’s yard, Their yard is so beautiful. This person’s yard is really pretty. But there’s still a lot of fog. This person’s yard is really pretty. Wow! It really is. How did they trim such a tall tree into a round shape? Amazing. This fog feels like early morning fog. Anyway, it’s really thick. The visibility while riding earlier— The visibility was terrible. About… Five meters, maybe. Where exactly have we ended up? There are so many customers here. Yeah. This place must have been quite luxurious before. A hotel.
Where are those two going? I don’t know either. They’re walking over there. Look. Seagulls are calling. It’s all fog fog fog. And this side too. Fog everywhere. The whole way here I was riding in conditions like this. And the seawater temperature here— It’s already very low. And with the fog, It feels like riding in winter. Mainly because— I still… I thought since it’s summer, I’d just wear summer clothes. I didn’t bring a jacket. It feels like around 17 to 19 degrees now. So cold. Hey, if the temperature drops again tomorrow, won’t it be even colder? It’ll drop? OMG. Will it get that cold? I’m already freezing now. I wonder if this kind of supermarket sells bento. If not, we’ll have to eat instant noodles. They do, they do. They have HOT CHEF. Oh really? They have cooked food.
【日本語のCC字幕】【 English CC subtitles】
有好幾次將厚岸說成了厚別，字幕有更正。
