【立山】紅葉に染まる立山三山を縦走｜雷鳥沢テント泊で歩く極楽禅定の道 | Mt.Tateyama

【立山】紅葉に染まる立山三山を縦走｜雷鳥沢テント泊で歩く極楽禅定の道 | Mt.Tateyama

Autumn leaves of the Tateyama Sanzan
ーWalking in a tent at Raichozawaー Day 1 Tateyama Station I’m coming to Tateyama Station. Today, I would like to take the cable car and bus from here to climb Mt. Tateyama. I’m planning on staying in a tent today, but unfortunately it’s raining so I’m a little worried about what will happen. I took online ticket for the 8:00, so I waited another hour to get on the cable car. When climbing Mt. Tateyama, generally one first aims for Murodo using the “Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route.” There are two routes to Murodo, one on the Toyama prefecture side and one on the Nagano prefecture side. This time, I will depart from Tateyama Station on the Toyama Prefecture side. From Tateyama Station, take the cable car to Bijodaira, and from Bijodaira, transfer to the Kogen Bus to arrive at Murodo in about 70 minutes. On the other hand, from the Nagano Prefecture side, starting from Ogisawa, you can reach Murodo in about two and a half hours by connecting electric buses, cable cars, and ropeways. Tateyama’s autumn leaves are known as the earliest autumn leaves in Japan. Around Murodo, you can enjoy the vivid autumn leaves from mid-September to early October every year. Tateyama has been worshiped since ancient times as the mountain where the gods dwell, and is considered one of Japan’s three sacred mountains along with Mt. Fuji and Mt. Hakusan. The first written reference to the name “Tateyama” is in a poem written by the Nara period poet Otomo Yakamochi in the Manyoshu. People at that time worshiped this sacred mountain from afar. In the Heian period, Buddhism and Shugendo merged, and mountain training called “Tateyama Zenjo'” became popular. During the Edo period, lodgings were established under the protection of the Kaga domain, and a pilgrimage called “Tateyama-ko'” spread across the country. Following the Meiji era’s ordinance separating Shinto and Buddhism, Tateyama changed from being an object of worship to an object of tourism and mountain climbing. Today, its magnificent nature and rich ecosystem attract many people, and it has become a mountain tourist destination visited by approximately 1 million people a year. Arrive at Bijodaira in about 7 minutes Change to the Tateyama Kogen bus Leaving Bijodaira shrouded in mist The Tateyama Kogen Bus connects Bijodaira at an altitude of 977m to Murodo at an altitude of 2450m in about 50 minutes. Around Bijodaira, Tateyama cedar and beech forests spread out, and you can also see Shomyo Falls, which boasts the highest drop in Japan. Midagahara, a vast highland wetland, stretches from 1,600m to 2,000m above sea level, and you can enjoy the autumn leaves until mid-October. Once above the clouds, the weather was unexpectedly clear! Murodo I arrived at Murodo. I was worried about the weather because it was raining at Tateyama Station, but it was sunny in Murodo. The mountain in the background is Mt. Oyama, the main peak of Tateyama. Today I will spend the night in a tent at Raichozawa campsite, and tomorrow I will traverse the Tateyama Sanzan from Mt. Bessan. It’s up to around here. The weather is nice. It looks like the autumn leaves are about to end around here. But there are still some autumn leaves left and it looks nice. Now, let’s go to Raichozawa campsite. I’m going. Before I leave, I’m going to fill it with spring water from Tateyama Tamadono. There is also a water hole at the campground, but this one looks better. taste good! Well then, let’s go. Nowadays, anyone can easily access Murodo, but in ancient times, worshipers headed to Mt. Tateyama from Iwakuraji and Ashikuraji temples at the foot of the mountain, following a pilgrimage route called the Tateyama Zenjodo. The path is dotted with places symbolizing hell and paradise, and worshipers walk through them to pray for the purification and rebirth of their souls. The Tateyama Zenjodo had six Zenjo (training) to train the mind and body. Among these, Gokuraku Zenjo is a practice that involves walking across the Tateyama Sanzan (Mt. Jodosan, Mt. Oyama, and Mt. Bessan). At Mt. Jodosan, we look back on the past,
at Mt. Oyama, we reconsider our present life,
at Mt. Bessan we make decisions about our future, and pray for the rebirth of our souls. It is said that by walking through Tateyama Sanzan in this way, practitioners symbolically experienced reaching paradise after death. This time, the day after staying in a tent at Raichozawa Campground, I plan to traverse the Tateyama Sanzan, taking the opposite route to Gokuraku Zenjo. That is “Mikuriga Pond”. The etymology of Mikuriga Pond comes from the word “Mikuri”, which is written as “Mikuri” and means “God’s Kitchen.”
It is said that the name “Mikuriga Pond” came from the fact that food and offerings to the gods were prepared using the water from this pond. Mikuriga Pond This view is nice. Picture-perfect scenery wherever you look. That is Jigokudani (Meaning: Valley of Hell). Mikurigaike Onsen There is a volcanic gas information station. “Display system malfunctioning” Is it okay? Is the system itself working? Is it just the display that is broken? I believe so. The autumn leaves on the slope of the mountain over there are spectacular. You can see a panoramic view of Jigokudani from here. Enmadai That hut is near Jigokudani, but is it okay? Jigoku Zenjo is a training that symbolically experiences the world of hell around Jigokudani.
Here, they faced their own sins and prayed for the purification and rebirth of their soul. It’s hidden by gas, but you can see Raicho-so over there. Today’s tent site is further ahead. Blood Pond Blood Pond is a pond formed from the remains of a crater, and is red in color because it contains a lot of iron oxide. I’ve been smelling so much sulfur gas that I’m choking. My throat hurts because of the volcanic gas. The autumn leaves here are very red. Amazing. This is amazing. Wonderful. This is wonderful. It’s bright red. I arrived at the observation deck of Raichoso. You can see the autumn leaves up close from here. That’s the campsite. That’s where I’ll be staying today. Raicho-so Bathing costs 1,000 yen. There are paved stone steps leading up to this point, making it very easy to walk. The campsite is almost here. It’s quite hot. It was cooler at the top, so maybe it was the altitude difference? Isn’t that so? Is it because there is no wind? I’m here. I arrived at the tent site. Raichozawa Campsite Where should I pitch my tent? There are benches and tables. There are many tents set up in the corner. It’s nice here. It’s nice to see the autumn leaves up close. It’s a spectacular view. Setting up a tent The tent setup has been completed. The wind was so strong that it was difficult to set up the tent. It’s done. While I was setting up my tent, I started to feel gas all around me. I could see amazing autumn leaves in front of me, but now they are hidden by gas. First of all, I will accept the reception. I will apply for a tent stay here. Do I need to fill out this form? This is the camping notification form. I checked in at the management office. This is a water hole. It’s a toilet. The toilet tip is 100 yen. (included in the tent fee) You can see this view from inside the tent. That’s nice. Ramen for lunch The mountain you can see from the tent site is Mt. Bessan. This is Tateyama, whose main peak is Mt. Oyama. The other is Mt. Jodosan. These three are called the Tateyama Sanzan. I’ll start from here tomorrow, cross this bridge and climb Mt. Bessan. From Mt. Bessan, I traverse the ridgeline. There’s nothing to do if I stay in the tent all the time, so I explore my surroundings. There is Raichozawa Hutte and Lodge Tateyama-Renpo. I’ll go there. The building is in a state of disrepair, but is it still open? Raichozawa Hutte It looks like I can take a bath here. Until 6:30pm If I have time tomorrow, I can come to the onsen here. I will stop by Lodge Tateyama-Renpo. The autumn leaves here are also bright red. Lodge Tateyama-Renpo “This season’s business ends on September 21st.” I see. That means I need to go to Raichozawa Hutte for the onsen. The setting sun hits the slope of the mountain, and the autumn leaves look very beautiful. It’s getting quite cold. I’m going to make dinner and eat it soon. Today’s dinner is Alpha rice and Muji curry. prawn masala I’ve never had this before, but it seems to be a popular item so I decided to buy it. The mountain is redder than before. So beautiful. Let’s have it then. It’s a creamy curry. Delicious. I think it should be a little more spicy. It’s 7pm right now. The stars are so beautiful outside. But it’s quite cold outside. It’s 9 degrees inside the tent at the moment. I’m ready for bed, so I’m going to sleep quickly. I’m a little worried about whether I’ll be able to sleep because of the cold. Tomorrow I will climb Tateyama Sanzan in the morning. Well then, good night. Day 2 Good morning. It’s 6am right now. I’ve had breakfast, so I’m going to leave now. It’s quite cold. First of all, the mountain I will be climbing today is Mt. Bessan you can see here. Then let’s climb up. I’m going. Apparently bears have been seen around here. I will go while ringing the bear bell. Scared. It’s amazing here. The autumn leaves seen from here are also amazing. There is still a long way to go. The sun has started to come out, but it hasn’t hit me yet. Looking from below, I couldn’t really see the condition of the autumn leaves, but they were quite dry. It was almost over. It’s easy to understand because there are arrows and X marks on the road around here. This side is amazing. I like this place. So beautiful. The sun has come out here too. It was quite cold until just now, but now that I’m out in the sun, it’s hot. Or maybe it’s because my body has already warmed up a lot. This is Mt. Hakusan. Mt. Hakusan is one of Japan’s three sacred mountains, along with Mt. Tateyama and Mt. Fuji.
Since the Heian period, many worshipers have climbed it through the Zenjodo path. At this point, the slope started to get steeper. I saw a hut. It’s finally here. This is Tsurugi-Gozen Hut. Before I knew it, I had come quite close. Tsurugi-Gozen Hut Mt. Tsurugidake I came out on the ridge. The wind is extremely strong. The ridgeline is quite wide and easy to walk. The scenery on both sides is so amazing that I will fall in love with it. That is Mt. Bessan. The wind stopped and things got a little better, but it was still very cold. I will walk along this ridgeline from Mt. Bessan. Looks like it’s pretty tough over there. Mt. Bessan In the Tateyama faith, Bessan is a mountain that represents the “future.” I climbed one of the Tateyama Sanzan. Next, I will continue along this ridgeline and climb the three mountains of Tateyama: Fuji-no-oritate, Onanjiyama, and Oyama. The slope is very steep. It’s scary here. The wind is also strong. The wind is extremely strong. From here, the ascent to Mt. Masagodake begins. Mt. Masagodake I arrived at Mt. Masagodake. Altitude 2,861m From here, climb the steep ridgeline to get to Mt. Fuji-no-oritate. The ridgeline looked quite thin from a distance, but I could walk on it normally. I came out on the ridge. And this is Mt. Fuji-no-oritate. It seems tough, but if I’ve come this far, I have no choice but to go. I arrived. Mt. Fuji-no-oritate Mt. Fuji-no-oritate looked scary, but it wasn’t that scary. Next is Mt. Onanjiyama This is Onanji resting place. It looks like I can’t go inside. I’m going to Mt. Onanjiyama. Mt. Onanjiyama I arrived at Mt. Onanjiyama. Mt.Onanjiyama is 3,015m above sea level, it is the highest peak in the Tateyama Mountain Range and Toyama Prefecture. You can see Kurobe Dam. Kurobe Dam is one of the largest arch-shaped dams in Japan, completed in 1963 and boasting a height of 186m.
The construction of the dam in the harsh natural environment of the Kurobe Gorge was called the “major construction project of the century.” You can see Mt. Fuji. From here you can see all three sacred mountains of Japan. Then, head to Mt. Oyama, the main peak of Tateyama. Mt. Oyama There are a lot of people. Oyama Shrine I reached the top of Mt. Oyama. Oyama is said to be a mountain that symbolizes “this world” in the Tateyama faith.
At the top of the mountain is the Oyama Shrine Minehonsha, which is the center of the Tateyama faith. There are a lot of people, so get off early. This is the triangle point. First-class triangulation point “Tateyama” Descending from Mt. Oyama to Ichinokoshi The autumn leaves in the valley here are amazing. It’s so beautiful. The way up to Mt. Oyama and the way down are different. The way down the mountain is marked with a yellow arrow, and the way up is marked with a red arrow. It has come down quite a bit. The summit of Mt. Oyama can be seen in the distance. Ichinokoshi Sanso came into view. Continue up the mountain until I reach Mt. Jodosan. I went down to Ichinokoshi Sanso. Ichinokoshi Sanso It’s windy. I’m heading to Mt. Jodosan. There is a person at the top over there. A building came into view. This is the Tateyama Research Institute, University of Toyama. And Mt. Jodosan is that on the other side of the ridge? The view from this side is also amazing. Is that the summit of Mt. Jodosan? Mt. Jodosan This is Mt. Jodosan. It is one of the Tateyama Sanzan. With this, I have conquered the Tateyama Sanzan: Bessan, Oyama, and Jodosan. Then I will descend towards Murodo. If I keep going at this pace, I’ll be able to descend the mountain earlier than planned. I was planning to stay in a tent for one more night, thinking I wouldn’t make it in time for the bus today. However, if I keep going at this pace, I might be able to make it in time, so I might be able to take down the tent and go home today. If I go there, there is a fairly flat road. There’s something like an observation deck over there. I will go down this steep rocky area to get there. The steep rocky area was finally over. It was quite exhausting. I will go down towards Murodo-daira without stopping at the observation deck. I could see Murodo. Murodo looks very close from here. This path has a gentle slope and many flat rocks, making it easy to walk. From here it became a stone staircase. It became even easier to walk. Will the stone steps continue like this? Today I climbed from Mt.Bessan that can be seen over there. Mt. Masagodake Mt. Fuji-no-oritate Mt. Onanjiyama Mt. Oyama and I went traversing Mt. Jodosan The goal is almost here. I returned to Murodo Sanso. I was able to descend the mountain an hour earlier than planned. I were on time to get up the mountain, although I had only started an hour early. I went as planned and arrived an hour early, so if I take down the tent early, I’ll be able to catch the bus in time. Murodo Sanso I reached the point where I could see the Raichozawa campsite. The tent is fine. Climbing these stairs is going to be tough at the end. The current time is 1:40pm. The last bus leaves at 4:20pm, so I have more than 2 hours. I’ll quickly fold up my tent and head back towards Murodo. I paid for a tent for 2 nights. However, I will donate the cost of one night’s stay. The tent has been evacuated. It took me about 30 minutes to pack. It’s now 2:10pm. Now, I’ll bid farewell to Raichozawa Campsite and head back towards Murodo. The stairs to Raicho-so are extremely long. Finally, the difficult stairs are over. I came up. The smell of sulfur is strong here, so I’ll take a break a little further. The climb from Raichozawa to here was the toughest of the day. I wanted to take a break, but the smell of sulfur was too strong here. My eyes hurt from the gas. Murodo I arrived at Murodo. Somehow I managed to catch the bus in time. I was able to catch a special bus and return to Tateyama Station. The autumn leaves in Tateyama this time were spectacular. This was my first time going to Tateyama, and I was impressed by the scenery. It would have been even more amazing if I had gone a little earlier. The autumn leaves were almost over, but I was able to enjoy it to the fullest. I would like to come back to Tateyama next summer. Well, this is the end of this trip. Thank you for watching.

紅葉に染まる北アルプス・立山へ。
快晴の青空と、真っ赤に染まる稜線のコントラストは、まさに秋の立山ならではの絶景でした。
初めて訪れた立山で、紅葉の美しさに感動しました。

立山は、古くから「神が宿る山」として信仰され、富士山、白山と並ぶ日本三霊山のひとつに数えられています。
平安時代以降は、仏教と修験道が融合し、「立山禅定」と呼ばれる山岳修行が盛んに行われるようになりました。
今回は「立山禅定道」の修行ルートの一つ、「極楽禅定」に則り、別山・雄山・浄土山の立山三山を縦走しました。
（浄土山→雄山→別山の順に巡るのが正式なルートですが、今回は逆方向）

過去（浄土山）・現在（雄山）・未来（別山）の自分と向き合い、魂の再生を祈る――
そんな「極楽禅定」の道を歩く中で、古の参拝者たちの想いに触れられた気がします。

初日は雷鳥沢にテントを張り、夕陽に染まるアーベントロート、そして満天の星空も見ることができました。
立山来年もまた来たいです。

YAMAPの記録
https://yamap.com/activities/43486558

#立山 #紅葉 #雷鳥沢 #テント泊 #北アルプス

00:00 オープニング・立山駅
04:42 室堂
12:47 雷鳥沢キャンプ場
19:57 2日目・立山三山縦走スタート
25:25 別山
28:31 富士ノ折立・大汝山・雄山
33:52 浄土山
39:50 室堂・エンディング