【世界遺産！】和歌山県・熊野三社で”新”を体験する旅〈旅人・勝村政信〉

【世界遺産！】和歌山県・熊野三社で”新”を体験する旅〈旅人・勝村政信〉

Masanobu Katsumura’s journey to Kumano, Wakayama Prefecture. Look, this magnificent structure looks like a tree. I walked the Kumano Kodo trail to Kuno Hongu Taisha, a shrine built on the banks of the Kumano River. The Kumano Kodo trail is a place where a unique faith has been passed down since ancient times, blending nature worship with Shingon, Buddhism, and the Taoist tradition. It’s said that visiting the three Kumano sites, known as the Three Kumano Sites, will reinvent you. Kuno’s great words and thanks to Hongu. Wow, the scenery here is truly captivating. The reason I came here is because of the Kuno god’s messenger. The Kuno Shrine, which houses Tagarasu, the symbol of the Japan Football Association, is a sacred place for us soccer fans. Good morning. Thank you for letting me see you on TV so often . I’d like to ask you about Tagarasu, but pleased to meet you face-to-face . Yes, yes, Coach Philippe Trusche, yes. Coach Ko, yes. I just met Zico. Oh, really? Katsu-san, you played soccer and you were blown away. You still play. Oh, we do. That’s right. I absolutely love it. Oh, well, the Japanese World Cup team is here, with a sure victory in mind. It’s said to be a messenger of the gods of Kumano, and when Emperor Jimu landed in Key Hunt during the Goto period and traveled to Kashiwara, it protected Emperor Jimu’s troops and guided them safely. Speaking of guidance, the Yatagarasu is the only bird that could provide guidance. He was well aware of this, and decided to use the Yatagarasu as the current symbol. The first chairman, as he was called, said something along those lines. The spirit of the selection team led to the strength of Japanese soccer today. Yes. The Japan Football Association’s symbol was designed with the Yatagarasu as well as other motifs, including divine birds depicted in Chinese mythology. We call it the Yatagarasu in the Goshinbu division, and it’s pronounced “Koma no Ho.” It’s 88 crows, all of which are crows. That’s right. All the crows have eyes, and there’s a mountain called Sa. This is the main shrine, Daisha. So, this is the Tamadai Gōshinbu in Shin, and this is Nadaisha at Na Falls . This is the oldest five-step bear statue, dating back 1,300 years . Can it be considered a talisman? Yes, it is. Many people receive these for various reasons, such as symptoms or to prevent rank declines. Another thing is that when the Tokiya and other generals engage in battle , they write the names of their counterparts on the back of the Gōshinbu and stamp them with a seal. They make a promise to work toward their goal, forming a single eye . It’s like a contract. Yes, yes, yes, yes, yes. A prescription book. If you break that promise, the person who broke it will be hunted down and killed. So, there’s a legend. These seals are used for spiritual protection. I was surprised by the priest’s crow-like writing. It’s strange, but I’d like to commemorate this as if I were walking down the street. Thank you. I once again paid my respects to the main shrine of Ku with gratitude. My heart is beginning to emerge. This is Yan. Ya Tagarasu’s. Ka-mochi. The main shrine of Kumasa . They use seasonings and drinks that focus on natural flavors without preservatives. What kind of local mochi are they? They use locally grown rice, cooked in a kamakura oven, and then half-cooked with a kind of scorching paste. Customers often compliment them, saying, “This is so vibrant, isn’t it?” The deep color makes it look delicious. If you’d like, we have a factory there, so if you’d like, please come over there. These are walnut ka-mochi. They’re cooked in the same way as the walnuts were harvested in Kumasa. Is that why they’re this color? Oh, yes. That’s right. Ka-mochi was originally a snack for people walking along the Kumasa drum, and the traditional way of cooking them is to cook them like rice in Kamasa . Doesn’t it get nice and smooth because you’re holding it? Once it’s attached to the fins, the graininess is gone, so it becomes, well, a beautiful rice. That’s right. That’s right. Rice was a luxury item, so if you cooked it like this in a rice cooker, the water would rise and you could see it being removed, so it seems that’s how it started being cooked in these balls. I immediately tried my hand at concealed kong tsume. What? 56 56. Oh, you put in quite a lot. Oh, it’s become 57. I went. It’s 56. I went. It’s hot. It’s pretty hot. Please eat this hot. The glutinous rice is also a type of rice called Yatano Mochi, which is a modified variety, and it’s grown in the rice fields in front of it, after paying the fee . Right. I just walked there. Oh, is that so? Let’s eat. Yes. I think it might be made with rice from the sacred land of Oyu-no-hara. How does it taste? I made it myself. It’s incredibly delicious. Right? It tastes better when you think you made it yourself. Yes. The softness of the rice cake outside, and the crumbly texture. Yes. It’s fun in your mouth, isn’t it? The color is different. That’s right. That’s right. Yes. Um, Kuma is a special place, isn’t it? So, I wonder how the locals feel about it . I don’t think the locals are even aware of it anymore. Yes . But, um, I originally lived in Osaka, and I came here, and I still feel like I’m being guided in some way. Yes. Yes. This is my first time here too, and I feel like I’m being guided in many ways. That’s right. They’re surprised. Everyone who came in during their break came out to see me off. I was so happy with the welcome. Everyone treated me to delicious food. There are a lot of inns with heavy wheat lined up. This area is a hot spring town. Um, I’ve been smelling that strange smell around here for a while now. It smells amazing. Hello. What is this place now? This place is, you know, the source of this hot spring. Yes. Yes. It’s rising from the bottom, and it’s about 92 degrees. So, does this hot spring have a long history, where inns serve vegetables and other things like that to their guests? Well, it dates back about 1,800 years, but that hot spring over there. Oh, there’s a capital city there, and that’s registered as a global asset, isn’t it? Capital city, capital city. Really. Amazing. The water is reserved for 30-minute trips. Anyone can enter casually. Yes. Yeah. Yeah, it feels good. Yeah. A filthy place for people who walk with the beat of a bear. Traditional hot springs have a deep connection. There’s no other place like this. And it’s a World Heritage Site, so you want to feel good in your body. For Japanese people, it’s natural to take a dip in a hot spring when traveling. So, especially with my soccer friends, we sometimes go to the countryside, watch soccer, and interact with the locals . Even with the same old friends, talking naked can feel a little different, liberating, and almost like you’re about to fall asleep. The bed is the best for travel. A solo retreat in the great outdoors. Feeling refreshed, I head down the mountain. It says “Welcome to Takagaki Store.” Oh, they’re doing something. It’s a small ping-pong table. Hello. Hello. Hello. Hello. Hey everyone, what are they doing here? It’s a penalty. Basketball pins. Basketball pins. This serves as a basketball. The rule is that you have to hit the ball cleanly without a band at least once. Yes. Yes. So, in this area, the No. 1 district and schools are doing all sorts of things, and with each family growing , they’re holding a one-ball-at-a-time theme . Apparently, they hold a slightly larger tournament every year, and it’s used as a game at elementary schools across the prefecture. At the Takagaki store’s event space, employees are cheering for survival, right? It’s the hottest spot . Oh, was it hot just now? It’s just called Basketball pins . If you put the ball into the net of this basket, it’s worth two points. Yes. And you have to put it in at least once. You serve it by hand. Yes. It’s a pretty dirty thing to do. Considering I’m explaining, it’s pretty normal. Normal. Thank you. A practice match has begun to teach me the fun of basketball. Oh, what was that just now? Bruce Lee. I’m from the Bruce Lee generation. My mind and body are kind of disconnected. Go ahead. A match. A good match. A good match. If I don’t get one of them in now, we won’t win. Right here. Okay, I get it. Okay, I’ll put it in next. I can rally, but it’s hard to put it in the basket. Here we go. The more I aim , the more it hits the spot, like I shouldn’t aim. When I play with Edo, I feel like I can make it go in, but I think there’s some kind of strange vibration going on with the president that’s interfering with it. I get it. Thank you very much. Thank you very much. I get it. You see, this, this trembling thing is interfering with my balls. It’s because the wood was flowing badly. Thank you very much. Wow, that was a great interaction. The best thing about this place is that it can be enjoyed by people of all ages, from children to the elderly. Looking for more interaction, I headed to the shopping district in front of the station. In this old-fashioned neighborhood, there’s a shop I’d like to check out : Mejiroshi Ume no Uta, which is a fun spot for me. Umeko, you say? Umeshi shop, you say? Hello . Hello. Welcome. What kind of shop is this? It’s a plum wine specialty store. It specializes in plums. Yes. We carry 144 types of plum wine from Wakayama Prefecture. Kishu is a place where fish is the fate of people, right? That’s why there are so many fateful drinks. That’s right. With our neighboring town, we compete for the top spot in Japan for plum star production. In this area, most of the plum wine sold here is made by plum pickle makers. Are there really that many types of plums? The taste changes depending on the degree of ripeness of the plums and the number of years they’ve been aged, so we have a tasting set of 12 varieties. It’s a simple flavor, uh, something you can compare, and it’s a bit interesting, like a reliability comparison or a stimulation comparison, oh, I get it . Yes. Sorry to keep you waiting. This is the stimulation comparison of the Miku comparison set. A stimulation comparison. Um, I think this last one might be a bit more interesting in order. This is the very last one, and it’s interesting. First up is Kumano, a craft liqueur made with Nanko plums and craft ingredients. It’s quite sweet. That’s right. Yes. It uses that gin, so it has a slightly refreshing tachibana scent, yes. It’s somehow more ethereal and sweet than I expected. It’s very refreshing and easy to drink, and it goes down smoothly. Next is Shiko, a plum liqueur whose appeal is its spicy flavor. It’s completely different, though. This one also has a refreshing sweetness that lingers in your mouth. This one is crisper and completely different. Third is Mutojikomi. It has a punch. It definitely has a great punch. This is a type of plum I’ve never tried before. This one has zero sweetness. Second round. Somehow, the flavor improves the second time around. Ah, adding this has somehow changed the way it swells. It’s like a gentle premonition. I see. I’ve thought about using it like that. Layering two or more types of plums is an interesting new discovery. Hey, are you all here to drink plum wine? No, let’s all toast with plums when we return the fire. Really? Are you skeptical? Oh, really? That ordinance was enacted 11 years ago, 53 years ago. Indeed , there’s a sign on the town gate: Here in Tanabe, plums and the townspeople are working together to promote a new local specialty. Cheers with plums. Cheers. Next comes the test. Taking on the 538 stone steps. Hard. Katsumura Tadashi’s journey through Kumano, Wakayama Prefecture. The pilgrimage of the Ku pilgrims is finally coming to an end. I’ve arrived at Kunoha Tamadaija in Jingu City. Just the difference in expectations is enough to give me energy. This completes my goal of visiting the three pilgrims on this trip. I wonder if they’re accepting me. Even with the weather , it’s hard to believe it’s like this. The atmosphere has been different since the first day. It’s the same here, but it’s completely divine. Apparently, worshippers there would take home the tooth of the goddess of friendship as a talisman when the storm passed and the sea gushed forth. Several people have played the role of Moriko, and I was one of them, so the feeling of being a real Moriko just got even more intense. Our journey ended at Gotohiki Rock, where the bear god is said to have first descended. The stone formations number 538. Sigh. Hard. Not over there. We could see Gotohiki Rock. Gohiki means to exchange something locally. Yes! So a god resides in this giant rock. Nakagami Kenji, who inspired this trip. Kumano, beloved by Harada Yoshio, is a sacred place teeming with overwhelming nature. A stunning view. A perfect achievement. Grateful for the natural beauty of Kumano.

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CHAPTERS:
00:00 Opening!!
01:07 サッカーファンの聖地！熊野三社で祀っている八咫烏の秘密／The holy place for soccer fans! The secret of the Yatagarasu enshrined at the three Grand Shrines of Kumano.
04:08 熊野本宮名物の”釜餅”工場／Kumano Hongu’s famous ‘kama-mochi’ factory.
05:27 ”釜餅”作りを体験して出来立てを食べる！／Experience making ‘kama-mochi’ and eat it fresh!
07:19 開湯なんと1800年！？湯の峰温泉で体を癒す／Hot spring opened in 1800!? Heal your body at Yunominoue Onsen.
09:40 新感覚！？町の工務店で行われるスポーツ”バスピン”／A new sensation!? The sport ‘Baspin’ being held at the local construction company.
11:00 大盛り上がり！新感覚ピンポン”バスピン”を体験！／A big excitement! Experience the new sensation ping pong ‘Basupin’!
13:04 梅酒で乾杯条例！？梅酒の専門店で味わう梅酒の飲み比べ／A regulation for toasting with ume sake!? A tasting comparison of ume sake at a specialty ume sake shop.
17:49 旅の最後は熊野の神が宿る”ゴトビキ岩”へ！／At the end of the journey, we go to ‘Gotobiki Rock,’ where the deity of Kumano resides!

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