Japan Countryside Autumn Trip | Local Train to Ouchi-juku & Tsuruga Castle

Japan Countryside Autumn Trip | Local Train to Ouchi-juku & Tsuruga Castle

I took a slow journey through Aizu, watching the mountains turn their autumn colors. From the cliffs of Tō-no-Hetsuri to the Edo-style town of Ōuchi-juku — and finally, Tsuruga Castle. I’ve always wanted to visit these places in the peak of autumn. Today, I’ll take you on a slow journey through these peaceful autumn scenes. I’ve just arrived at Tō-no-Hetsuri Station. What a charming little station this is. This tiny unmanned platform is gently wrapped in autumn leaves. The red and yellow leaves along the tracks are breathtaking—hard to believe this view is right beside the station. I can’t help but stop and take it all in. They say the sound of stepping on fallen leaves has a soothing, therapeutic effect. With every soft crunch, I felt my heart slowly unwind with the deepening of autumn. Even the little station building feels so lovely. Its wooden warmth blends beautifully with the colors of the season. Soft autumn light pours into the small waiting room, filling it with calm. Beyond this beautiful station lies today’s destination—Tō-no-Hetsuri. Sunlight filters through the trees, making the leaves glow a brilliant gold. The journey has only just begun, yet my heart is already filled with excitement. The crisp air, the gentle morning light, and the vivid autumn colors—everything feels perfect. I could stay in this scenery forever. The autumn colors around the station are so beautiful—I can’t bring myself to leave. 😆 But it’s almost train time, so I’d better head toward Tō-no-Hetsuri. It’s about a five-minute walk from the station to Tō-no-Hetsuri. “Hetsuri” means “cliff” in the local Aizu dialect. This scenic site, shaped by nature over millions of years, is one of Fukushima’s treasures. Wind and water carved these rock walls over an unimaginable span of time… Their shape resembles a row of towers—hence the name “Tō-no-Hetsuri,” or “Tower Cliffs.” In autumn, the vivid foliage drapes the cliffs in color, drawing many visitors to this breathtaking place. Crossing this suspension bridge brings you right up close to the cliffs. It sways just a little as you walk, and the breeze rushes up from below. Beyond the bridge lies a narrow trail with a touch of thrill… Some parts have no railing, and it makes the walk a little nerve-wracking—but fun. Standing there, I could truly feel the power of nature that shaped this landscape over countless years. Halfway up the cliff stands a small temple called Kokūzō Bosatsu-dō. It enshrines the Bodhisattva of wisdom and fortune, radiating a gentle, sacred warmth. In this place where nature and faith meet, I felt a quiet, mysterious warmth. A breathtaking view that can only be seen during the autumn season. Even on the rocks, the trees hold their roots firmly in place. The strength of nature never ceases to amaze me. In the fresh morning air, I felt the mystery and energy of nature with my whole being. What a beautiful place… I’ll definitely come back here again someday. As much as I’d love to stay, it’s almost train time. Let’s head back to the station. Next, I’m heading to the neighboring station—Yunokami Onsen. From there, there’s a bus that takes you to Ōuchi-juku. It’s also known for its traditional thatched-roof station, which I’d been looking forward to seeing. As I stepped off the train, the grand thatched-roof station greeted me. From the platform, I could see mountains covered in rich, natural beauty… Bathed in autumn colors and morning light, the place felt so warm and welcoming. There are now only two thatched-roof stations left in all of Japan. The other one is Bungonakamura Station in Ōita Prefecture—I’d love to visit there someday, too. Inside the station, there was a small market selling local produce—and even an irori hearth. It has a nostalgic and heartwarming atmosphere all around. At the café, I decided to try some amazake—a traditional sweet rice drink. It looks so good! It even came with local pickles on the side… Both have such gentle flavors—they warm you from the inside out. Outside, there was even a small foot bath. Soaking in hot spring water while watching the trains pass by—what a quiet little luxury. Moments like this are what make local train trips so special. Next, I’ll take a bus to Ōuchi-juku. I’d made a reservation in advance, so boarding was easy and smooth. The view from the window is just perfect. I’ve arrived at Ōuchi-juku. The autumn colors are at their best here, too! Wow… rows of thatched-roof houses line this old street. It feels like I’ve stepped back into the Edo period. Ōuchi-juku flourished during the Edo period as a post town along the route connecting Aizu and Nikkō. Even after 400 years, more than 30 thatched-roof houses remain—preserving the atmosphere of old Edo. Even today, the residents protect this view by following their promise: not to sell, not to rent, and not to destroy. This is Takakura Shrine, the guardian of Ōuchi-juku. It was founded around the late Heian period and has watched over Ōuchi-juku ever since. Shops serving the town’s famous soba noodles and small craft stores line the street, delighting every visitor who passes by. Just walking down the street fills me with a gentle sense of nostalgia. It takes only about five minutes to walk from one end of Ōuchi-juku to the other. According to the guide, two hours is plenty of time to explore at an easy pace. At the far end of the street, up a gentle hill, stands the Ōuchi-juku lookout point. The view from here truly captures the spirit of old Japan. Rows of thatched-roof houses stretch below, like a scene from a movie set. The sight made my heart skip a beat. It’s such a peaceful autumn view—I could watch it forever. It’s about time for lunch. Today’s lunch is Ōuchi-juku’s specialty—Takato soba. “Misawaya” is the birthplace of Takato soba and one of the most popular spots in town. I’ve always wanted to try this dish. Before the soba, I was served simmered daikon radish—its simple flavor instantly warmed my heart. And finally, the Takato soba has arrived. It comes with a whole leek served alongside—a truly unique style of soba. You actually use the leek as chopsticks to eat the noodles! To make it easier to scoop the noodles, the leeks are specially grown by local farmers so the tips curve slightly. It’s trickier than I thought—but that’s what makes it fun! With plenty of spicy grated daikon, it had a crisp, refreshing flavor. After lunch, it’s time for a little break. I’ll spend some relaxing time at a café in Ōuchi-juku while waiting for the bus. The display case is filled with delicious-looking sweets. I only planned to have coffee, but now I can’t decide which dessert to try. Inside, the warm wooden interior creates such a cozy atmosphere. Even though it’s my first visit, it somehow feels so comforting. Outside the window, a peaceful view stretches out—time seems to slow down here. I ordered a coffee and a rice-flour roll cake. As the aroma of coffee rises, I can’t help but take a deep breath. I never expected to find such an authentic café here—it felt like a lovely little reward on my journey. It’s hard to leave, but it’s time to say goodbye to Ōuchi-juku. Next, I’m heading to Tsurugajo Castle in Aizuwakamatsu. I heard the autumn leaves around the castle are also at their peak—I can’t wait to see them. There’s something so soothing about watching the scenery from a local train window. Watching the scenery slowly pass by—these quiet, unhurried moments are one of the joys of travel. Listening to the sounds of the local train—moments like this are pure bliss for a train lover like me. I’ve arrived at Aizuwakamatsu Station. From here, I’ll transfer to a sightseeing bus to reach Tsurugajo Castle. And there it is—the symbol of Aizu, Tsurugajo Castle. Surrounded by autumn colors, the castle looks like a painting come to life. A delicious aroma drifts from the café inside the castle grounds. I couldn’t resist trying the fried mochi that caught my eye. Wow, it looks amazing! That sweet and salty flavor is just irresistible. Now, let’s head inside the castle and take a look around. From the top observation deck, I could see the city of Aizu and the mountains stretching far into the distance. Looking up at the autumn sky, I can’t help but wonder if the people who once lived here gazed at the same view. While walking through the castle grounds, I came across a teahouse called Rinkaku. It seems to be under renovation, but visitors can still go inside. It’s said that Sen no Rikyu’s son, Shoan, built this place while he was in hiding here in Aizu. The spirit of tea has quietly lived on through the centuries. I enjoyed a set of matcha and a traditional sweet. With just one sip, I could feel the flow of time and the quiet beauty of Japan. In 1593, Lord Gamo Ujisato built Tsurugajo—the first full-scale castle tower in eastern Japan. Its red roof tiles, designed to withstand the cold, beautifully contrast with the white snow—I’d love to see it in winter someday. During the Boshin War, the castle withstood fierce attacks for over a month—earning its reputation as an impregnable fortress. I’m truly glad I could visit this castle at the end of my journey. Thank you so much for watching. Let’s go on another warm and peaceful journey together soon.

Experience the peaceful beauty of Japan’s countryside in autumn.
I took a local train through Aizu to visit Ouchi-juku, Tsuruga Castle, and other scenic spots surrounded by vibrant fall colors.

From the historic thatched-roof village of Ouchi-juku to the iconic Tsuruga Castle and the quiet moments along the local railway, this trip is filled with the gentle, nostalgic charm of rural Japan.

If you love slow travel, scenic train rides, and Japan’s autumn foliage,
I hope this video feels like taking a journey together. 🍁

⏰ Chapters
00:00 Opening | Autumn Journey on the Aizu Railway
01:11 Arriving at Tower of Hetsuri Station | Strolling Through Autumn Colors
05:19 Tower of Hetsuri | Scenic Cliffs and Suspension Bridge
10:25 Yunokami Onsen Station | Traditional Thatched-Roof Station
12:29 Footbath Time | Watching Local Trains
13:16 Arriving at Ouchi-juku | Edo-Period Thatched-Roof Village
16:02 Ouchi-juku Viewpoint | Stunning Panoramic Townscape
17:21 Misawaya | Trying the Famous Takato Soba
19:24 Bunke Tamaya Café | Relaxing Coffee Break
21:18 Ouchi-juku → Tsuruga Castle
23:09 Tsuruga Castle | A Beautiful Landmark in Autumn Colors
24:04 Castle Café | Tasting Aged Mochi (Fried Rice Cake)
24:47 Tsuruga Castle Tower | Views from the Observatory
25:29 Rinkaku Tea House | Matcha and a Moment of Calm

🍁Places Visited
◾️ Aizu Railway
https://aizutetsudo.jp

◾️ Tower of Hetsuri

塔のへつり

◾️ Ouchi-juku
https://ouchi-juku.com

◾️ Saruyu-go Bus
http://london-taxi.jp/busroute.html#saruyu_anchor

◾️ Misawaya
https://www.misawaya.jp

◾️ Bunke Tamaya Café
https://www.instagram.com/tamaya_bunke?igsh=MTJxNmc5cXY0OG9rYQ==

◾️ Tsuruga Castle
https://www.tsurugajo.com/tsurugajo/

◾️ Tsuruga Castle Café
https://www.tsurugajo.com/aizu-tea-stories/shop/180

◾️ Rinkaku Tea House
https://www.tsurugajo.com/tsurugajo/rinkaku/

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