【日本四國遍路EP11】探索海邊寺院、莫內的花園與神秘山洞！舵手地藏、捕鯨文化、伊尾木洞冒險
哈囉 大家今天是四國遍路的第12天
Hello everyone, today is Day 12 of my Shikoku pilgrimage. 今天的目標是25番的
Today’s goal is Temple No. 25, 然後還要參拜完第26番
and then I’ll visit Temple No. 26 as well. 昨天有比第一次露營成功一些
Yesterday’s camping went better than the first time. 當然天候的因素影響很大
Of course, the weather played a big part in that. 至少昨天是好天氣 沒有下雨
At least the weather was good and it didn’t rain. 然後
And then, 昨天的整個露營的場地 也都非常好
the campsite yesterday was also very good. 有屋頂 有可以用水
There was a roof and running water, 然後還有廁所
and there was a toilet as well. 但是呢
However, 我昨天的防寒對策 我覺得還是不夠
I don’t think my cold-weather measures were enough. 主要真的是地板太冷了
The ground was really cold. 地板的那個寒氣會源源不絕的
The cold from the ground just keeps 一直把你身上的熱吸走的感覺
drawing the warmth out of your body. 我昨天原本放了兩個暖暖包
I originally placed two heat packs. 現在我的羽絨外套的口袋
If I put them in the pocket of my down jacket 放一下5分鐘
for five minutes, 燒到那個 會有點燙的程度
they get so hot that it’s almost too warm. 結果
But, 我再把那兩個暖暖包丟到睡袋裡面
when I put the two heat packs into the sleeping bag, 馬上變溫和 他的溫度馬上不燙
the temperature instantly becomes mild. 睡一睡 你就會冷醒
I kept waking up from the cold. 然後就變成哪裡覺得特別冷
So whenever I felt cold somewhere, 就把暖暖的包放在那個位置
I would move the heat pack to that spot. 就覺得 舒服多了 這樣子
And then it felt much better. 超好笑
It was kind of funny. 所以昨天就一直睡睡醒醒
So I just kept waking up throughout the night. 那個膝蓋覺得冷啊 放暖暖包哦
Knees cold—put heat pack there, 暖但其他地方冷這樣
warm there but cold somewhere else. 第25番津照寺
Temple No. 25 — Tsunomine-ji. 哇
Wow. 有很長的階梯呢
There’s a really long staircase. 這是12生肖
These are the twelve zodiac animals. 還有 剛剛爬上來氣喘吁吁的阿姨們
And also some aunties who just climbed up and are out of breath. 因為這邊坐落在海邊
Because this place is located by the sea, 所以民眾的祈願
most people’s prayers here 大部分都是漁業興盛
are for prosperous fishing businesses, 或者是航運安全等等的
or for safety at sea. 你們看那邊都是海
Look — it’s the ocean over there. 傳說山內一豐曾在此遇到了暴風雨
Legend says that Yamauchi Kazutoyo once encountered a storm here. 突然出現一位僧人
Suddenly, a monk appeared, 把船安全開入港內就消失了
guided the ship safely into the harbour, and then vanished. 眾人於是到津照寺想要找那位僧人
People came to Tsunomine Temple to look for the monk, 發現地藏菩薩的像竟然是濕的
and found that the statue of Jizō Bosatsu was wet. 因此津照寺的本尊又被稱為
So the temple’s principal deity is also known as 舵手地藏菩薩
the Helmsman Jizō. 現在要往第26番金剛頂寺
Now I’m heading to Temple No. 26, Kongōchō-ji. 等一下應該
In a moment, 又是要爬山的路了
it will probably be another uphill climb. 我看Google上面的那個
Checking on Google, 路線非常的蜿蜒
the route looks very winding. 應該是要爬的蠻高的
Seems we’ll be climbing quite high. 這裡的指示是寫3公里
The sign here says 3 kilometres. 但3公里山路跟
But 3 kilometres on a mountain path and 平路差超級多
on flat ground are completely different. 這裡是金剛頂寺的山門
This is the mountain gate of Kongōchō-ji. 要走上來之前呢 要先爬66階的厄坂
Before coming up you have to climb the 66 “bad-luck” steps. 可以除厄這樣子
They’re meant to ward off misfortune. 然後 你在爬的過程中 他好像
And as you climb, it seems 沿途會有一些對應的歲數
there are age markers along the way, 就是從66歲
starting from age 66 到33歲到19歲然後一直上來
down to 33, 19, and so on. 所以應該是每爬一階
So I suppose with each step 就可以去除一歲的厄
you shed a year’s bad luck. 但是66歲以上的我就不知道了
Not sure how it works beyond 66, though. 其實只能除去66歲的厄
Maybe it only covers up to 66. My luggage is very, very heavy. Really heavy. 這裡是在金剛頂寺的山下
We’re at the foot of Kongōchō-ji. 然後這邊有一個
And there’s 空海大師修行的地點
a site where Master Kūkai is said to have trained. 好像就是在
It seems to be 這邊
right here. 這邊嗎
Here? 就是在這個
It’s in this 反正就是在這個石窟這邊修行過
cave here—this is where he practised. 誒呀
Ah… 看起來很危險啊
Looks quite dangerous. 這邊也有
There’s another one here— 大師修行的地方
another of the Master’s training spots. 怎麽看起來都不太像是可以修行的地方
They don’t really look like places you could train, though. 前面是
Up ahead is 剛剛
the person I was 一起下山的
coming down the mountain with— 法國哥
a French guy. 啊看到了
Ah, there it is. 應該就是一個修行的洞窟
That should be a training cave. 室戶的鯨魚館
The Muroto Whale Museum. 感覺裡面有賣很多可愛的文創小物
Feels like they sell lots of cute creative goods inside. 我現在所在的地方是室戶
I’m now in Muroto, 的鯨魚博物館
at the Whale Museum. 他的門票是500元
The ticket is 500 yen. 然後呢
And, 你如果進來就是買了門票的話
if you’ve bought a ticket to come in, 他裡面還有一個
there’s also a VR眼鏡
VR headset, 是不用特別加錢的
and you don’t have to pay extra for it. 然後等一下呢就說可以坐在那個
They said in a bit I can sit 這一艘船上
on that boat over there. 然後好像360度
And it seems to be in 360 degrees, 會有那個可以看全景的鯨魚的畫面
so you can see panoramic footage of whales. 等一下再試試看
I’ll try it later. 大概兩到三分鐘的動畫
It’s about a two- to three-minute animation. 這裡介紹一些傳統日本捕鯨的
Here they introduce traditional Japanese whaling 文化還有一些技法
culture and techniques. 都在這裡
All displayed here. 然後還有
And there are also 鯨魚的骨頭
whale bones. 土佐（高知舊稱）從江戶時期就盛行捕鯨
Whaling flourished in Tosa (old name for Kōchi) since the Edo period. 古式的捕鯨 非常講究團隊協作
Traditional whaling required strong teamwork, 技術還有勇氣
skill, and courage. 漁民們會乘坐多艘的勢子舟
Fishermen rode multiple “seko-bune” boats, 在海上合力的驅趕鯨群
working together to herd whales in the open sea. 將鯨魚逼入潛水區或者包圍圈裡面
They drove them into shallows or into an encircled area. 接著呢
Then, 會撒網以及用標槍攻擊鯨身的要害
they cast nets and struck vital points with harpoons. 甚至呢
Sometimes, 漁民會直接爬到鯨魚身上去攻擊
fishermen would climb directly onto the whale to attack it. 那最後呢是鯨魚力竭而亡
Eventually the whale would die from exhaustion. 然後再拖回岸邊進行分解
Then it would be dragged ashore to be processed. 在當時資源相對匱乏之下
In times of scarce resources, 鯨魚的肉 油 骨 其實都各有用處
the meat, oil, and bones all had their uses. 古式的捕鯨活動呢
Traditional whaling 從體積的對比 就可以看出
shows, from the size comparison alone, 人類其實非常渺小
how small humans really are. 以及早期
And how the people 居住在面海山多的土佐人
of mountainous, sea-facing Tosa 為了謀生與自然拼搏的歷史
struggled against nature simply to survive. 捕鯨雖然是為了生存
Whaling was done to survive, 卻也同時奪取了生命
but it also took lives. 因此當時的漁民們會立碑或建塔
So fishermen built memorials and towers 供養鯨靈
to honour whale spirits. 或許是希望能夠安撫
Perhaps to soothe 這些逝去的鯨靈
the souls of the whales that had died, 也希望人與鯨能夠持續的共生 共存
hoping humans and whales could coexist. 畢竟我們人類不是理所當然的活著
After all, our being alive is not something we are entitled to— 而是依靠其他生靈的犧牲
it comes from the sacrifice of other living beings. 才得以生存
Only then can we survive. 有機會來到高知
If you have the chance to come to Kōchi, 也希望大家可以找找看
look around and see if you can find 有沒有鯨的供養塔哦
a whale memorial tower. 今天早上
This morning, 已經把安排的兩個寺都已經走完了
I finished visiting the two temples I planned. 所以我現在要來觀光
So now I’m here for sightseeing. 這裡是北川村的莫內庭園
This is the Monet Garden in Kitagawa Village. 園方希望能夠再現莫內後半生
The garden aims to recreate the beauty of Monet’s later years 在法國維吉尼中所打造的花園之美
in his garden at Giverny in France. 有趣的地方是
What’s interesting is, 園方呢
the garden… 會在一些景的旁邊擺上莫內的畫作
They place Monet’s paintings beside certain views for comparison, 來做對照哦
so you can see them side by side. 今天這間民宿可以用booking下訂
You can book tonight’s guesthouse on Booking, 是一個老爺爺經營的
and it’s run by an elderly gentleman. 他接待了很多的遍路者
He’s hosted lots of pilgrims. 嗨 大家早安
Hi everyone, good morning. 今天是四國遍路的第13天
It’s day 13 of the Shikoku pilgrimage. 然後
And 今天民宿的老板 要直接載我們到
today the guesthouse owner will drive us 神峰寺山腳下
to the foot of Kōmine-ji. 我們可以爬山上去
We’ll hike up from there. 然後
And 這個是民宿老板
this is the guesthouse owner, 然後昨天
and yesterday 一起住的
I stayed with 是一個日本小哥跟一個韓國大叔
a Japanese guy and a Korean uncle. 韓國大叔的話
As for the Korean uncle, 從第一天
from day one, 第二天 第三天都陸續有遇到
day two and day three we kept bumping into each other, 然後 經過了10天終於又再遇到了
and after ten days we’ve finally crossed paths again. 就是還蠻有緣的
Feels quite fated. 剛一次爬了一段山路啊
We’ve just climbed a stretch of mountain trail, 不過蠻快就到了因為
but we got here pretty quickly because 今天民宿的老板在我們這登山口
the owner dropped us at this trailhead today. 這裡有著名的名水
There’s a famous spring here, 等一下可以來
which we can 看一下他的名水喝一口看看
check out later and have a sip. 這一個
This one 叫做
is called うすさまみょうおう
Ususama Myōō, まみむめも
“ma-mi-mu-me-mo”. 這個烏蒭沙摩明王
This Ususama Myōō (Uchchushma) (穢跡金剛)呢
— also called Eshiki Kongō — 他會在不乾凈的地方 還是會出現
appears even in unclean places 然後保佑
to offer protection. 所以很多這個明王像
So many images of this deity 會被掛在廁所裡面
are hung in toilets. 不淨的東西 他也不會在意
He isn’t bothered by impurity 然後都會保佑
and still grants protection. 神峰寺參拜完了
Finished paying respects at Kōmine-ji. 然後民宿老板把
And the guesthouse owner 我們的行李放在他的車上
put our luggage in his car, 現在可以拿
so we can collect it now. 我現在要去伊尾木洞探險
I’m off to explore Iōki Cave now. 這個景點是昨天
I heard about this spot yesterday 在guest housed的一個日本的房客
from a Japanese guest at the guesthouse, 他告訴我的
who told me about it. 他跟我說有這一個景點
He told me this place was worth a visit. 我就先
I’ll first 在這個地方伊尾木站這個地方先停
stop here at Iōki Station for a moment, 然後參觀一下這個木洞
to look around the cave. 然後等一下再繼續坐車
Afterwards, I’ll continue by bus. 這裡呢就是伊尾木洞
This is Iōki Cave. 感覺很神秘哦
It feels quite mysterious. 這裡啊是大概在3億年前
This cave was formed roughly 300 million years ago, 透過海水沖刷
carved out by seawater 而形成的
over time. 一個洞窟
It’s a natural grotto. こんにちは
Konnichiwa. 所以在裡面呢 還可以看到一些
So inside, you can still see 貝殼
seashells 還有一些
and also 之前水中植物的一些遺跡
fossilised remains of aquatic plants. 這裡很明顯就會感覺到很清涼
You can immediately feel how cool it is in here. 然後旁邊
And beside me, 還有一些流水
there’s flowing water as well. 地板的話有點濕濕的然後
The ground is slightly wet, 會滴一些水下來
and droplets drip down from above. 其他就在車站旁邊
Even though it’s right next to the station, 但是就很有秘境的感覺
it still feels like a hidden gem. 有點滑
It’s a bit slippery. 剛剛就從這邊這樣走過來
I walked in from over there just now. 看一下
Let’s take a look. 沖刷的痕跡
You can see the erosion marks. 空氣感覺很好
The air feels really fresh. 然後這邊有很多的苔蘚類
There are lots of mosses here, 啊還有蕨類
and ferns too. 還有一隻這個
And there’s one of these… 不知道是誰
Not sure who this little one is. 昨天那個日本的房客啊
Yesterday, the Japanese guest 我在走神峰寺山路的時候跟他聊天
I was chatting with while climbing up Shinpō-ji 他說他是地質系的
told me he studies geology. 所以可能因為這樣吧 所以他對於
So perhaps because of that, 什麽樹洞啊 石頭啊
he’s really into hollow trees, 這些就特別有興趣 也特別了解
different rocks, and things like that. 不然的話
Otherwise, 我也不知道這個地方
I wouldn’t have known this place existed. 很乾淨很清幽
It’s very clean and peaceful. 走路要小心
Watch your step. 比我想象中還要
It’s longer than I imagined. 長很多誒
A lot longer, actually. 不過剛進來在洞口那個地方是
But the entrance area earlier 最壯觀的
was definitely the most impressive. 要去呢
Let’s keep going. 這有個橋
There’s a little bridge here. 那邊看起來不是很好走呢
The path over there doesn’t look very easy to walk. 要去呢
Let’s go. 我們現在的路是要去看瀑布
We’re heading towards a waterfall now. 希望等一下的瀑布很大
Hope the waterfall up ahead is huge. 這裡根本是
This is basically… 旁邊你看還有繩子
Look, there are ropes along the side. 看起來
It looks… 這個簡直是
This is practically… 叢林探索
jungle trekking. 現在重裝真的不太適合
A heavy pack really isn’t ideal right now. 誒呀往後走
Whoa—back up a bit. 哦 很涼爽誒 真的
Oh, it’s so cool—really. 空氣超清新
The air is super fresh. 誒呦
Whoops. 誒 這個水都好清澈
Hey, the water is so clear. 看起來都
It all looks… 誒呀
Ah! 果然是花到了
Yep, I slipped after all. 糗
How embarrassing. 糗哥
Clumsy me. 啊
Ah! 沒事
I’m fine. 沒事
All good. 還好
Could’ve been worse. 我裝備齊全
Good thing I’m properly kitted out. 還好
Fortunately. 快到了快到了
Almost there, almost there. 我剛剛就是走這樣子的亂石路
I came over this kind of rocky path 過來
to get here. 又有個橋
There’s another little bridge. 等下我從這邊
In a bit, I’ll go from here, 先爬上去
climb up first, 然後抓住這個繩子 再通過那個橋
then hold this rope and cross that bridge. 我現在在遍路的好朋友Lawson
I’m at a henro’s best friend—Lawson. 今天中午簡單吃一下啊
Just a simple lunch today: 兩個飯團
two rice balls, 就是阿波地區很有名的雞肉
the famous chicken from the Awa area, 然後一個咖啡牛奶
a coffee milk, 然後還有很缺的蔬菜
and some much-needed veg. （無聲）
(silence) 今天爬了神峰寺的山嘛
Climbed up to Shinpō-ji today, 然後剛剛去了伊尾木洞
then just visited Iōki Cave. 等一下呢 要先坐車到西分站
Next I’ll take transport to Nishibun Station, 再開始繼續走
then continue on foot. 節省一小段的路程
That saves a small stretch. 西分站走到
From Nishibun Station to 第28番的大日寺
Temple No. 28, Dainichi-ji, 還要再走3個多小時
it’s still over three hours’ walk. 那我今天就會下榻在
And tonight I’ll stay at 大日寺的通夜堂
Dainichi-ji’s tsuyadō (pilgrim hall). 就是這樣
That’s the plan. 通夜堂免費哦
Tsuyadō is free, by the way.
🧭 本集行程：
– 沿著室戶海岸線前進，風景壯麗，海風吹拂
– 參拜第25番「津照寺」，認識舵手地藏王菩薩的傳說
探訪「鯨館」，了解土佐人歷史上的捕鯨文化與海洋生活
參觀北川村「莫內庭園」，重現印象派大師理想的花園之美
– 拜訪金剛頂寺、神峰寺，兩座充滿修行氛圍的山寺
– 結尾探險「伊尾木洞秘境」，岩洞與蕨類群生地令人驚嘆！
地點資訊：
📍鯨館
https://maps.app.goo.gl/hg8EBmvnqmkQixFY6
📍北川村莫內庭園
https://maps.app.goo.gl/iTJQvLs6Y76ok7mbA
📍伊尾木洞
https://maps.app.goo.gl/yZBvoXEteVbUDTQ3A
▶️ 四國遍路清單：https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrpf1aiVonlC9snTqeZxrXKm_z1fUtVlg&si=b5jA8ANwA8rqx1kU
▶️ Instagram: @chang_gogogo
#四國遍路 #伊尾木洞 #津照寺 #地藏王菩薩 #鯨館 #捕鯨文化 #金剛頂寺 #神峰寺 #四國旅遊 #henro #高知秘境 #旅行雜貨店🧭 本集行程：
– 沿著室戶海岸線前進，風景壯麗，海風吹拂
– 參拜第25番「津照寺」，認識舵手地藏王菩薩的傳說
探訪「鯨館」，了解土佐人歷史上的捕鯨文化與海洋生活
參觀北川村「莫內庭園」，重現印象派大師理想的花園之美
– 拜訪金剛頂寺、神峰寺，兩座充滿修行氛圍的山寺
– 結尾探險「伊尾木洞秘境」，岩洞與蕨類群生地令人驚嘆！
地點資訊：
📍鯨館
https://maps.app.goo.gl/hg8EBmvnqmkQixFY6
📍北川村莫內庭園
https://maps.app.goo.gl/iTJQvLs6Y76ok7mbA
📍伊尾木洞
https://maps.app.goo.gl/yZBvoXEteVbUDTQ3A
▶️ 四國遍路清單：https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLrpf1aiVonlC9snTqeZxrXKm_z1fUtVlg&si=b5jA8ANwA8rqx1kU
▶️ Instagram: @chang_gogogo
#四國遍路 #伊尾木洞 #津照寺 #地藏王菩薩 #鯨館 #捕鯨文化 #金剛頂寺 #神峰寺 #四國旅遊 #henro #高知秘境 #旅行雜貨店