나홀로 일본 일주, ｢혼슈｣에서 살아남기

나홀로 일본 일주, ｢혼슈｣에서 살아남기

I finished my 40-day journey through Kyushu and Shikoku, and finally arrived on Honshu, the largest island of the Japanese archipelago. (Amazed) This is it! This is the true flavor of traveling in Japan! With excitement filling my heart, I chased the setting sun and arrived at my lodging in Osaka, then headed straight to a famous nearby tourist spot, Dotonbori. Dotonbori, Osaka, Japan Wow… I’ve never seen so many people gathered in such a narrow space in my life. (Many people taking commemorative photos) It seems that all these people are waiting for the lights on that sign to turn on. As the Dotonbori’s iconic sign lit up, the unique and vibrant sights of Dotonbori began bursting forth with the approaching darkness. “Bosozoku” bikers, found everywhere “Go-kart squads” decorating the streets with bright colors Young people capturing the best moments of their youth, and people who bring romance to the night. Unfortunately, I was too tired that day, so I could only have a quick beer before falling asleep. I was really looking forward to the next day. Universal Studios Japan (USJ), Osaka, Japan – Thank you.
– Have a wonderful day! The next day, I visited Universal Studios Japan. And the first thing I noticed upon entering USJ was that there were so many visitors that I could barely see ahead. Even though it was a weekday. But that feeling soon turned into one of gratitude. People from many different cultures, and those with various personalities, all gathered in one place. Of course, couples creating beautiful moments couldn’t be left out. I’m jealous… This USJ is actually smaller than I expected. It’s only about 800 meters across, but since it’s packed with incredible attractions, it doesn’t feel small at all. “What are you doing?!” — this woman said to everyone. Concerts and events of all sizes, and maybe thanks to the creative ideas that spark curiosity, it seemed like the place that best defines the word “theme park.” Since every ride had at least a two-hour waiting time, I decided to try just one ride — the Harry Potter attraction. Unfortunately, filming was prohibited during the ride, so I couldn’t show it in detail, but it was the most fun attraction I’ve ever experienced in my life — definitely worth a try. After that, I finished my visit to USJ and got ready to leave Osaka. It must have been more fun than I thought. The “afterglow” lingered for a long time. (I’d like to buy an ear that didn’t hear that) I then headed south, toward the Kansai region, starting from Wakayama City. Since it was getting late, I decided to stay overnight at a hotel located in the southern part of Osaka Prefecture. Ah, I have a special meeting waiting for me tonight. A Korean who lives here in Osaka. A subscriber of my channel, who goes by the nickname “Samuel,” invited me to dinner. Riding the most romantic wave of the modern era — the “algorithm” — I’m really looking forward to meeting a fellow Korean in a foreign land. Wow… look at the color of the sky. I have a feeling today will be another perfect day. Kansai Seaside Hotel Wow, this room is really satisfying. What? A room like this for only 30,000 won? That’s so cheap! It’s so clean, and it even has a bathtub! I’m definitely taking a bath — nice! Samuel just arrived, so I’ll head out right away. – Nice to meet you.
– Nice to meet you! – It’s a pleasure to see you.
– I’m glad to see you too! I’m glad you arrived safely. – I heard your trip has already been a month long.
– Wow! Already? Where did you start your journey in Japan? I entered Japan through Shimonoseki, by the Kanpu Ferry. What kind of motorcycle do you own? I have a BMW 1250 GSA. My last motorcycle in life. I begged and begged until I could finally buy it. That’s amazing. Above all, the fact that your wife allowed it! Of course, my wife still worries about me, At first, we rode together, but now she doesn’t want to anymore. – I even bought a big bike so we could ride together.
– Well, sometimes it’s fine… I’d also love to visit Kyushu and Shikoku, but I just never get the chance. Even though I live in Japan, you know. I suggested we go together this summer vacation, but she said she wants to go by car. She wants to go, but not by motorcycle — by car instead. – Motorcycles are tough.
– Yes, they can be a bit exhausting. So, how is it? Coming to Japan? How can I put it? I’m simply happy. Above all, I felt so happy because the nature here is truly beautiful. Looks like it’s this way. Wow, it’s our first time here too. Amazing. Samuel took me to a famous “yakiniku buffet” located right next to Kansai Airport. It’s a place called “SAKON.” It was a restaurant where you could enjoy various meats and desserts, just like a Korean-style meat buffet. – Thank you for the meal, Samuel!
– Let’s eat! I originally planned to eat somewhere more elegant, with a stronger Japanese atmosphere, but I thought I might never have the chance to enjoy Japanese-style barbecue alone. Thankfully, it turned out to be the perfect choice for me, since I was lacking some nutrition. More than anything, when I saw the kimchi, I suddenly craved it even though I hadn’t missed it before. (The taste I’d missed) Please drink comfortably — we’re in Japan.
(In Korea, it’s polite to turn your head away when drinking in front of elders.) What I really admire about you is that you said you had to quit your job due to unfortunate circumstances, right?
(*You were laid off because of the company’s financial difficulties.) Yet instead of giving up, you immediately redirected your life toward travel. That’s not something an ordinary mindset could handle. – That’s why I thought it was amazing.
– I’m embarrassed. I had never left a comment on YouTube before, and this was the first time I ever messaged someone saying, “Excuse me, but I’d like to meet you.” My wife was surprised and asked, “What’s gotten into you?” I just wanted to share a warm meal together. That’s all. The situation was a bit different, but I’d had a similar experience, and during those tough times, I struggled a lot. At those moments, when someone said “Let’s eat together,” I was so grateful. I wanted to be that kind of person — someone who could share a warm meal. Those simple words became such a reassuring comfort. I felt tears welling up, so I just kept flipping the meat over and over. While listening to Samuel’s story — someone who had gone through far more ups and downs than I ever had — I was reminded that as long as you don’t choose the path of giving up, a good opportunity will come someday. And I also learned a lot about practical Japanese expressions I had been curious about. Does “naruhodo” mean “daijoubu”? It actually has many different uses. Of course, you can say “naruhodo desu ne,” but it sounds a little strange. Japan also has a high level of education, right? So even if you speak in simple English, many people can understand you. But I don’t know much Japanese or English — just a little bit of both. Even so, communication is possible. Of course! For example, When I said, “Maybe, tomorrow, riding… hmm… hmm… Sata Cape,” they understood everything. – Even that was enough to communicate.
– I agree. Actually, “communication” itself, you know, I realized this when I traveled to Korea with some Japanese friends before. It’s not about “language,” but about the heart that wants to listen. When I compared it to my own experience of learning Japanese words one by one just to survive, I realized how true that is. Wow, that’s amazing. It’s heavy… Really heavy. Ah, does “heavy” mean “omoi” in Japanese? – Yes, it’s “omoi.”
– Ah, “omoi,” I see. Just like experiences like this. And then, he even prepared an unexpected and thoughtful gift for me. Do you have big hands? My hands? My hands are actually quite small. You might find this surprising, but I saw in the video that you were wearing a “REV’IT!” jacket.
(*REV’IT!: motorcycle apparel brand) These gloves… They’re size M gloves. Please accept them, if you don’t mind. Would you like to try them on? Just in case the size doesn’t fit… Right, they might not fit your hands. – Do they fit?
– Perfectly. – I’m glad!
(It felt like they were custom-made.) When it’s hot, it’s better to use two pairs of gloves. I prepared them thinking, “What might he need the most?” Maybe my subscribers (travel friends) are just trying to make me cry. I’m so glad the size fits perfectly. – I’ll use them gratefully.
– I’m happy to hear that. – Thank you.
– Thank you for the meal. If you get tired tomorrow in Wakayama, ask them to let you stay overnight. There are plenty of rooms there. The “Wakayama” I’m talking about now refers to another Korean person living in Japan, like Samuel. It’s Mr. Youngcheol’s house. The two of them met through the comments section on my video, then met in person, shared a meal, and became like brothers. Mr. Youngcheol is missing Koreans right now. Because there aren’t any Koreans where he lives. And since he’s only been in Japan for five years, his Japanese is still a bit rough. Coincidentally, he lives in Wakayama, where I’m heading, so I decided to visit him tomorrow. When I visit, I should try speaking in a dialect — like Busan’s dialect in Korea. We’ve already arrived. The conversation was so enjoyable… Though it was a short time, we shared deep warmth and kindness, and promised to meet again. – Take care of yourself.
– Thank you very much. – We’ll meet again, right?
– Of course. – Have a good rest.
– Yes, thank you. Thank you very much. Drive safely! He was such a kind and thankful person. He treated me to dinner and even gave me new gloves. And while heading south toward Wakayama, he told me about someone from Busan who now makes and sells “Busan food” in Japan, and I really want to visit that place too. He shared so much helpful information with me — I’m truly grateful. Thank you so much, Samuel and Kuniko. Finally, the season has arrived — the one where sweat drips down even when you’re standing still. It’s around the end of May now. In Okinawa, Japan’s southernmost region, the rainy season has just begun. The rain front is moving northward, and the temperature is rising rapidly, so from now on, I’ll be heading north from Honshu. Even if I start going up now, Japan’s land is vast, so I’ll have to hurry. Ah, before going up, there’s the southernmost tip of Honshu just below Wakayama. I can’t just pass by a place like that, so I’ll go down one last time before heading north. Oh, and before leaving, I’ll wear these gloves that Mr. Samuel gave me as a gift yesterday. Oh, perfect fit. Feels like it was custom-made for me. You see the time here? Three hours and forty minutes, 150 kilometers. And this isn’t even the final destination — it’s just the stopover distance. On the map, it looked like “not that far,” but since Japan’s land is so large, any movement takes at least two hours on average. It seems like it’s going to be quite a long day again. After this, a winding mountain road. And after driving through charming countryside villages for about two hours, the hearty meal Samuel treated me to last night felt like it had vanished, as fatigue from 40 days of sleep deprivation and malnutrition finally broke through the last line of defense — “youth” — and surfaced. Even though only a few hours had passed since waking up, I was so exhausted I felt like I might faint. Feeling like I’d collapse if I kept going, I decided to surrender to my body’s cries. Ah, this looks like a good spot. I’m so sleepy I’ll just take a short nap here. I’ve never done something like this before… No matter how far I went, there wasn’t a single place to rest. This is still in the mountains, but since there are houses and cars around, I don’t need to worry about bears. After using this tent, I realized how convenient it is — I’ll probably just stick to this one. With just two simple motions, a house is built. I know it’s a bit of a dangerous thing to do, but compared to falling asleep while riding, it’s a very small risk. One hour later It was so hot that I sweated buckets while sleeping. Feeling a bit refreshed, I twist the throttle again to go meet Mr. Youngcheol. The farther I got from the city, the greener everything became, and I couldn’t help but gasp in awe. Wow… look at that view! There were moments when I felt a little envious of Youngcheol, who lives in such nature. Even after meeting him, I still had to head all the way down to Honshu’s southernmost tip, so I rode nonstop for two hours and finally arrived to meet him. Busan, Shirahama, Wakayama — Thank you for coming all the way here.
— Oh, not at all. — Is that a Japanese license plate?
— No, it’s a temporary one. That’s amazing! The temporary plate I made in Korea seems to look unusual to people here. Wherever I go, people take an interest in it. — Did you book a place to stay?
— No, there’s a roadside station down there. — You can sleep there, can’t you?
— You can, but it’s boring. You can’t even shower… — It’s become part of my daily life now.
— Please stay at my house. — Are you sure it’s okay if I stay?
— Of course, don’t worry. I even have a garage where you can park your bike. — Have you eaten yet?
— I came here planning to eat. — Let’s eat first and then go to the bathhouse together.
— What!? — There’s a hot spring nearby.
— The bath closes at eight, so we’d better hurry. Wherever I go, I can’t help but thank the heavens for letting me meet warm-hearted people regardless of nationality. And after dinner, unexpectedly, I went to the hot spring with Mr. Youngcheol. I ended up staying overnight at his house. Yesterday and today — I’m filled with nothing but gratitude. There’s a saying: “Men from Busan share their bowls even when their sleeves just brush,” and in that moment, I truly felt it deep in my heart. How long has it been since I last had Yukgaejang, a spicy Korean soup? It looks absolutely delicious. “Korean seaweed.” How long has it been since I last tasted Yukgaejang? I didn’t even like this dish much back in Korea, but living abroad made me realize how much I missed it. (The powerful taste of home) —So, did you meet your wife after coming to Japan, Youngcheol?
—No, actually… Youngcheol used to run an auto repair shop in Busan, and met his wife Miyako, who was visiting Busan as a tourist. They eventually got married. After finishing every last drop of that nostalgic taste of home, we headed to a nearby hot spring to wash away our fatigue. Ah, how cute. Look at those round eyes. Ah, the roof of this countryside house… Even the satellite dish on top of it. This place reminded me so much of the rural villages back in Korea. It felt just like when my older brother used to take my hand and bring me to the hot spring as a child. Wow… this place is truly beautiful. With these tall palm trees, it almost feels like I’m in Hawaii. The sunset here is absolutely stunning. Wow, have you ever seen a hot spring right next to the beach like this? —Try to save your expenses as much as possible.
—Thank you… (He even treated me to the hot spring.) The scenery here was truly amazing, but unfortunately, I couldn’t show it because it was inside the hot spring. Thanks to Youngcheol’s kindness, I was able to wash away my fatigue, and to top it off, we shared smiles over a cold beer. —Cheers!
—Cheers! —Nice to meet you.
—Nice to meet you. My name is Kim. Mr. Kim.
Kimu-ssi. (in Korean) Youngcheol’s wife’s name is Miyako, and I got to hear their local mixed language called “Hanbono,” a blend of Korean and Japanese. Because I’m happy today, “Ah, I feel so good!” That “Hanbono” way of speaking was so cute in real life.
(Hanbono: a mix of Korean and Japanese) I could understand everything, but let’s see if you can hear it too. —How do you pronounce “Starbucks”?
—Sutābakkusu. —Sutābakkusu?!
—Sutābakkusu! (The pronunciation is so cute.) Even Youngcheol’s friends said they had trouble understanding our conversation. —Ah, it’s called “Hanbono.”
—Hanmon?! A language that combines Korean and Japanese—Hanbono. Miyako mixes a bit of Japanese into her Korean, but it’s still perfectly understandable. —When did you start your trip?
—April 16th, 2024. You came all this way in just one month?! Encounters like this are truly wonderful. Everyone I’ve met during my travels in Japan has shown me kindness without expecting anything in return. All present. —It really warms my heart.
—Yes, it does. It truly touches my heart. (Moved) When we opened our shop here, many Koreans who had been living in the area for a long time came to visit us. Cheer up, cheer up! I felt so happy and joyful. Many Korean customers who visited our shop even brought us gifts. Your smile is so beautiful. That smile you’ve had while looking at Youngcheol since earlier. I’m scared. (joking) You look so happy today, probably because you got to speak in Korean. Because you usually talk with your wife in limited Korean… Since both of you are still learning each other’s languages, communication can be difficult, and having deep conversations with customers in Japanese isn’t easy either, so you must’ve had a hard time with language. Not knowing the nuances of Japanese culture and expressions probably made it even more confusing. That’s why you look so happy today. Truly joyful! So that’s why you kept smiling at Youngcheol earlier. Oh, by the way, is there a coin laundry in town? —But you have a washing machine at home!?
—Ah, excuse me. Since I invited you, please feel free to relax and rest. I’m not the type to get bothered easily. Thanks to the warm hospitality of the fiery Busan man and kind Miyako, I decided to stay here for a few days to rest and recharge. After sharing such a warm and peaceful time together, I went to bed. Youngcheol ❤️ Miyako’s house — Day 2. The next day, while buying some things I needed for motorcycle maintenance, I went out with Youngcheol to explore the beautiful beaches of Shirahama. Originally, today’s forecast said it would be cloudy, Wow… Youngcheol said he wanted to give me a unique experience. Following his lead, we entered the expressway. The highway we’re on right now isn’t a toll road — it’s a “free” expressway. Unlike in Korea, Japanese highways have both toll sections and free sections depending on the area. So now, we’re traveling on a free expressway. I’ve driven on Japanese highways a few times before, right? I’m not sure if I just experienced some unique routes, but many of them were two-lane roads, and the speed limits were often 70 or 80 km/h.
(In Korea, it’s over 100 km/h.) But right now, I have no worries at all. It’s been a while since I’ve traveled with someone. Maybe because I have a reliable captain I can trust, I feel so at ease. After driving for a while on the free section, we’re now passing through a toll gate. Even this looks quite interesting. Ah, since it’s a “free highway,” we just drive straight through the middle of the toll gate. It’s quite a unique sight. After riding down the open road for a while, we arrived at a store to buy some engine oil. Looks like we’ve arrived. This home center called “Konan” is like a Korean hardware store, selling DIY supplies for the home and daily life. It’s not a specialty shop, so the selection isn’t that big, but buying motorcycle engine oil at a supermarket became a special memory for me. (Even if it’s pricey, I chose premium engine oil.) Oil purchase complete. I was told about a delicious udon shop nearby, so we’re heading there now. It’s funny, but during my 40 days traveling in Japan, I had all my meals from convenience stores, so before coming to Honshu, I had never eaten in a regular restaurant even once. Marugame
(A popular Japanese udon chain) We ordered “Kama-age Udon,” which in Korean means “boiled udon served directly from the pot,” and as the name suggests, it’s really big, isn’t it? It feels like being served udon in a big basin you’d see at a traditional public bathhouse. Ah, this is where you add the toppings? This “Kama-age Udon” is eaten by dipping it into a sauce, similar to soba, and at the self-service corner, you can add “green onions,” “tempura crumbs,” and so on, to customize it as you like. That’s how you dip it into the sauce before eating. Thanks to Mr. Samuel from Osaka and Mr. Young-chul from Wakayama, we’ve checked off another bucket list item, and we’re twisting the throttles together toward the beach of Shirahama. With gratitude, we enjoyed our udon meal, and now we’re heading to a beach near Shirahama. They say that beach has a shining white sandy shore. But interestingly, the sand isn’t local—it was purchased from Australia. That’s quite unique.
(It’s said the beach was covered with sand from an Australian mine.) From here to Shirarahama was quite a short distance, so we arrived quickly. The scenery here made me feel as if I were on a beach somewhere in Southeast Asia. It seems people are surfing and snorkeling here. Looks like water sports are quite popular. Probably because it’s a beautiful seaside tourist spot. As we got closer to the beach, the scenery grew deeper in color, and I felt like I had seen it somewhere before. Thinking back, this road looked very much like Daecheon Beach in Korea. Shirarahama, Wakayama This beach, covered with white sand embracing the golden sunset, was filled with lovers welcoming the quietly arriving summer, and families sharing warm moments — painting the beginning of summer together. Ah… When will I ever… return home again? While Mr. Young-chul runs his business, I’ll be working on my motorcycle. I’ll replace some parts and finally do the long-overdue wash. Imagining the rural fields of Korea in my mind, as soon as I got home, Mr. Young-chul began preparing for business, and I began my motorcycle maintenance. Of course, it would be easier to take it to a repair shop, but I don’t have much money — only time, and plenty of it, like Elon Musk. So I’ve always fixed things by myself. Besides, since I like traveling through remote places, I figured it’s necessary to know enough maintenance skills just in case something happens. After getting ready to ride again toward Japan’s northernmost point, I didn’t forget to wash the bike. Thanks to the tools of Mr. Young-chul, who used to be a professional mechanic, I was able to clean off the dust that had piled up over forty days with ease. During that time, I also met some visitors who came after hearing about “a Korean traveler touring all around Japan.” – Do you have a girlfriend?
– No. (laughs) – Want to travel around Japan together?
– OK. – Sit on the back seat.
– Sounds good. I should’ve quickly invited her on the back seat and taken off right then. Next time, I won’t miss the chance. – Cheer up!
– Thank you. I’m on my way to do some grocery shopping after finishing the maintenance. It’s now 9 p.m. This time, I’m paying. No matter what, it has to be me. To Mr. Young-chul, who has given me so much, I wanted to give a gift this time. I buy food to colorfully decorate the end of this vibrant day, and also purchase plum wine, a specialty that’s hard to find outside the Kansai region. Plum wine, a specialty of the Kansai region. It looks like this, and apparently, it’s quite hard to get. It’s even hard to find in supermarkets. I don’t usually drink alcohol, but I have this one occasionally when it’s in stock. Thank you so much for helping me with both the maintenance and the washing today. Wow, now I understand why this plum wine is so rare. It had the richest flavor of any plum wine I’ve ever tasted. Along with this delicious drink and some snacks, I share my thoughts about traveling around Japan. From a Korean’s perspective, highways are fascinating, right?
(In Korea, motorcycles are not allowed on highways.) So I was really excited, and in Japan, the harmony between nature and the roads is beautiful. At first, I was like, “This is so much fun!” But the scenery, though beautiful, keeps repeating. And you have to keep going straight at the same speed, on the same road. – It gets boring.
– Yeah, I started to get tired of it. That’s still fine. But when you go through a tunnel that lasts 20 minutes, it’s torture. – A 20-minute tunnel?
– Yes. – Such a tunnel actually exists?
– Yes, it’s nearby. “Please, let there be a rest stop!” ×2 There aren’t many rest areas in Japan. That’s right. Highways really lack rest stops. I think the “Michi-no-Eki” system, which appears at short intervals, is really great. Highways just don’t have enough rest areas… Young-chul ❤️ Miyako’s House – Day 3 I spent two days here at Mr. Young-chul’s house working on maintenance.
(Due to the wind noise, this part is replaced with narration.) I was originally planning to leave today, but rain and wind are forecast for tomorrow and the next day. It seems to be the influence of Typhoon No.1 “Ewiniar,” so I plan to stay two more days at Mr. Young-chul’s house until the rain stops before heading out. So before the rain begins, I’ll look around the nearby area. At the coast of this “Hiki” village, there’s something called the “Feather Cave,” a beautiful natural formation that means literally “Cave of Feathers.” So I’m heading there now — let’s go together! “The Feather Cave” Whenever you visit a natural scenic site in Japan, you often find yourself surrounded by lush, jungle-like nature. Even before reaching the spot itself, the mood already lifts your spirits. “The Feather Cave,” Hiki, Wakayama This “Feather Cave” got its name because the rocks stretching out toward the sea at low tide look like the “feathers” of a bird. At high tide, it belongs to the “sea,” and at low tide, it opens its stage to “people” — a place with a generous heart. The most striking sight here was the two large sculptures. Two great “caves” carved out by the playful hands of the “wave brothers.” What seems like “eternity” to humans was, for nature, just a fleeting touch — a cave about 30 meters long, carved over ages. After another eternity, it may look like “Ioki Cave” in Shikoku, holding hands with the greenery around it. And look at the traces of time layered upon one another. Seeing these countless layers of strata, I’m reminded again of how brief human time is compared to the time of nature. It’s a humbling realization. Every time I stand before magnificent nature, I’m reminded how fleeting human life is, and I reflect on whether I’m truly living this short time without wasting it. It always makes me look back on myself. It feels like this is the first time I truly enjoyed “sightseeing” with peace of mind while traveling in Japan. Having a “place of connection” really gave me a sense of comfort and relaxation. Once again, I’d like to express my heartfelt thanks to Mr. Young-chul. Thank you. This is our “Busan,” always bustling with people. After coming back from the beach, I saw that Mr. Young-chul had applied dust and anti-fouling coatings and made my motorcycle look as good as new. Even though he knew it would soon get dirty again, it must have been his way of cheering me on, hoping I’d finish my journey in style. Mr. Young-chul always refused to take money from me, so the only thing I could do was to help him with his work. All I did was wash the dishes, but even then, he said, “You worked hard,” and told me he had a place he wanted to take me. Wait a second, I think there’s a bug? – There it is! Right there.
– Where? After about 30 minutes of driving, we headed back into the city. On the way, he explained that Wakayama is famous for its “soy sauce,” and now I understand why. Marugen Ramen This is a ramen chain that’s famous for its “shoyu (soy sauce) ramen.” This dish is called “Niku Soba,” and just look at that broth — it looks absolutely delicious. It was my first time eating shoyu ramen at a restaurant, so I can’t judge properly, but the rich pork broth and soy sauce harmony were enough to make my taste buds dance. (Rice) (Laughs) Only Koreans put rice into soup. Japanese people eat rice and soup separately, but Koreans mix rice into the soup. If you put rice into your soup, they say it’s an instant giveaway that you’re Korean. It’s something only Koreans do. Japanese people hold their rice bowls when eating. I’ve seen that a lot in movies. Finished it all clean. Thank you for the meal! – I’m happy!
– So am I! Ah, I wish the rest of this journey could be as happy as today. Since I spent last evening with Mr. Young-chul, today I’ll end the day with Mrs. Miyako. It’s the same. Korean men and Japanese men are the same. – The same after marriage?
– The same after marriage. But, until they get married, Korean men are “Lady first.” Fraud. – Fraud…?
– Fraud! Lies. Ah! Fraud. Yeah, you got it? The same. Ah, so whether it’s Japanese men or Korean men, they’re all “fraudsters,” huh? Maybe European men, Western men — they’re the same too. All the same. So men around the world are probably the same, huh? Absolutely the same. Women too. Women too, until they get married. But once they’re married? Yes! Of course they change. So women are the same too. Everyone, this is the honest truth — (the world of marriage). This, This one… If we post this on YouTube, the marriage rate will drop even more. In Korea, the number of people getting married has already decreased a lot, and it’s the same in Japan. – No way!
– If we post this conversation now, since both Korea and Japan are avoiding marriage these days, posting this might make the marriage rate drop even more. It’s a big problem. Not good! A true advisor is someone who also provides a solution. Ms. Miyako, who encourages marriage, also offered me a solution. If marriage becomes difficult, come to Japan. If you say, “I know a Korean man,” there are many Japanese women who will respond, “I’d like to meet a Korean man.” I’m serious! Many women come here wanting to meet Korean men or study the Korean language.
(My heart suddenly fluttered) And many customers ask, “Don’t you know any Korean men?” My father once told me that when I finish my trip to Japan and return home, I should bring a Japanese girlfriend on the back seat of my motorcycle. (Laughter) That’s actually a good idea! When I tell people there’s a Korean man working at our shop, many women say, “Eh~ I want to meet him!”
(I think it’s out of curiosity rather than seriousness) Allow me to take this moment to say one thing sincerely. My phone number is 010-9797-9.. The fourth morning has arrived.
(At Young-cheol ❤️ Miyako’s house, Day 3) On the fourth and fifth days, as forecasted, there was a heavy downpour, so we closed the shop and went downtown together. The rain was raging! Our first stop was the “Toretore no Yu” hot spring. Enjoying an open-air rooftop bath while it poured rain was such a beautiful experience. It’s always a shame that I can’t share it on video. And at the hot spring, I happened to meet a regular customer from “Busan,” and we went together to the local seafood market. Tuna (Japanese) Tuna (fillet) There were foods that are hard to find in Korean markets, and I encountered several unfamiliar dishes. This one is beef, and this one is venison. It was my first time seeing venison jerky. Look at this strange creature! I’ve never seen anything like it in my life. It looks like something between a crab and a mantis shrimp. Its name is “Asahi Gani.” In Korean, it’s called the “chicken crab.” It doesn’t have much meat, but the flavor of its innards is said to be exceptional. I think I’ll add this one to my bucket list, too. I’ve never seen this shrimp before either. What’s its name? In Korean, it’s called “Dan-saewoo,” and in Japanese, “Ama-ebi.” They say it’s really delicious. Since we were already at the market, we grabbed a handful of the rare “Ama-ebi” shrimp. The bittersweet final night. Suddenly feeling homesick, I asked to have “stir-fried baby octopus,” a Korean dish rich with the taste of home. – Is it spicy?
– Yeah! It’s spicy… “Tteokbokki” is super spicy, too. I’m leaving here tomorrow, and since I don’t know when I’ll eat Korean food again, I asked Mr. Young-cheol to cook for me. Normally, I can’t handle spicy food, so I rarely eat it, but after nearly two months abroad, I started craving that familiar Korean heat. Thank you for the meal! Thanks to them, I could forget my homesickness for a little while. And on top of that, they even gave me a sleeping bag as a gift. Those who have followed my journey already know this, but I had been struggling earlier because I didn’t bring a sleeping bag — and they remembered that. – I’ll buy this one myself.
– No, don’t do that. If you catch a cold, it’ll be much harder. I’d worry even more. This way is cheaper than worrying about you later. Thank you so much… Young-cheol ❤️ Miyako’s home, farewell. This money is nothing compared to what I received from Mr. Young-cheol, and I know he won’t accept it anyway, so I’ll leave it here secretly before I go. Rather than as a form of repayment, I’ll leave it with the hope that he’ll use it one day to help someone else in need, just like he helped me. Of course, he chased after me and returned the money again. It’s now 7 a.m., and I’ve finished preparing to leave. According to the map, I have about eight hours of riding ahead of me today. I’ll just have some ramen and hurry to get going. (He offered to make me breakfast early in the morning, but I firmly declined.) Even until the moment of departure, he kept worrying about me. I’ll make sure to complete the journey safely. – Drive safely!
– Yes! Thank you so much. Thanks to you, I had a peaceful rest. Thank you…
Thank you so much… – Drive slowly.
– Yes, I will. I’ll send a message from time to time. Goodbye. It’s so hard to take my first step away… Be happy! With a warmth that words can’t describe in my heart, I set off once more toward the northernmost tip of Japan. From the very beginning of Honshu,
I could only thank the sky for allowing me to write such an unforgettable page. All I could do was offer my heartfelt gratitude. I grip the handle tightly,
vowing to become a “messenger” who will pass on this warmth I’ve received to someone else. I take hold of the handlebars with determination. They were truly people I could never thank enough. Mr. Young-cheol and Ms. Miyako, thank you once again. Thanks to you, both my bike and I have recovered greatly. In reality, only about 30 days remain for my journey across Japan, but with my condition restored, I believe I can complete it safely. Vowing once again to become a “messenger” who shares this kindness with others, and as I recall that warm memory— Wow…! It’s so beautiful! The sapphire-colored sea begins to embrace me. Today, I’ll ride all day north along this endless “Pacific Coastal Road.” I had planned to visit “Shionomisaki,” the southernmost point of Honshu, but then I realized there’s no need—I’ve already been to “Cape Sata,” the southernmost tip of Japan. So instead, I’ll skip that and visit the nearby spot. After seeing the beautiful sea rocks called “Hashigui-iwa,” I plan to head toward Lake Biwa, the largest freshwater lake in Japan. This lake is enormous— it’s said that the area of “Lake Biwa” could submerge Seoul, the capital of Korea. I can’t even imagine how big that is. Maybe when I get close, I’ll be able to see the horizon. And today, the weather is so clear—it almost feels “unreal.” Yesterday’s typhoon brought heavy rain, but it feels as if that rain swept away all the dust. So, with this weather, I’ll ride alongside you all once again! What is this? It’s neither mudflat nor rocky shore… such a strange landscape. “Hashigui-iwa” was close by, so I arrived in no time. This is the place known as “Hashigui-iwa.” Hashigui-iwa, Wakayama, Japan If translated literally, “Hashigui-iwa” means “bridge-pile rocks.” In other words, “rocks shaped like bridge pillars.” Large and small rocks line up toward the sea, stretching about 900 meters. This formation was once a single massive rock created by magma beneath the sea, but over time, erosion by the ocean carved it away, leaving only the hardest parts that we see today. In mysterious places like this, there’s always something uniquely Japanese to be found. That structure we know as the entrance to a Japanese shrine— that’s called a “Torii.” Of course, there’s also a small shrine just beyond it. As I traveled across Japan, I often saw these “torii” gates standing in rugged mountain areas or along the sea. I assume that, as people set sail and looked toward them, they served as symbols to pray for safety, peace, and prosperity throughout the day. In Japan’s native religion, Shinto, animism and nature worship are deeply rooted, so these shrines have surely been a source of strength for the local people since ancient times. I’m also going to try the “soft-serve ice cream” I’ve been postponing every time I stop at a Michi-no-Eki. Hello. One matcha ice cream, please. —Enjoy your ice cream.
—Thank you. This was my first time trying a soft serve at a Michi-no-Eki. Each station offers unique flavors, and some people even travel just to try these ice creams. Since I love matcha, I chose this flavor, though I can’t really tell the difference — it’s simply a delicious matcha ice cream. Leaving behind this mysterious piece of sea, I set off once again to fully experience the “Pacific Coastline Route.” This endless horizon stretches out along every road I take. The endlessly extending “Shichirihama Beach” is said to be the longest beach in Japan, stretching an impressive 22 kilometers. Wow… is this Hawaii? Well, I’ve never been there though… There’s a Michi-no-Eki just ahead, so I’ll stop and take a look around. I just can’t resist this view. The moment I saw this overwhelming ocean, I instinctively stopped my bike. It turned out to be one of the best, most satisfying choices I made in Wakayama. To be honest, I don’t even have time to stop here. It’s already noon, and I still need to drive about six more hours to reach my destination. But how could I just pass by scenery like this? I’ll enjoy the view while driving, but action cameras just can’t capture this scenery properly. Thinking of sharing this scene with you fills me with excitement as I head toward the sea. I truly am a lucky person. Being able to run freely along this vast 22-kilometer beach alone— I can’t express how grateful I am. Wow, look at this lively ocean. Honestly, I want to jump into the sea, but the waves are too strong, and it seems the beach isn’t open for swimming, so I’d better not go in. I’ll just enjoy the view instead. Why you shouldn’t go in. Right now, I’m drenched in sweat, and if only it were safe, I’d love to dive into this vast Pacific Ocean. This Michi-no-Eki is quite large, so I’ll take the opportunity to eat before leaving. I’m not sure how it is in big cities, but in rural areas, most restaurants close for a break after 2 p.m., so you can’t get a meal. That’s why I usually end up eating at convenience stores. Since it’s lunchtime anyway, I’ll eat here and then head out again. Shichirihama Mikan Park, Wakayama, Japan I’ve looked all around, but I can’t find any restaurant. Maybe I just missed it. Well, it can’t be helped. I’ll be having a bento again today. I’ll eat a rice bowl bento with mackerel. I definitely checked everywhere, but there’s no restaurant in sight. I guess I just couldn’t find it. So once again, due to my lack of awareness, I’ll be replenishing protein with rice bowl and mackerel. If you’re planning a long-term trip in Japan, don’t get lost like I did. Try learning even a little Japanese, and your journey will become more… Richer? More fulfilling? Yes, I hope you’ll have a richer travel experience. Even if your language skills are limited, it makes a huge difference whether you try or not. And during long journeys, please make sure to take care of your nutrition. From my experience, the “insurance” called youth collapses more easily than you think. Delicious. I’ve finished my meal and enjoyed the view of the beach. It’s now heading toward 1:30 p.m. I’ve been driving for three hours so far, but I still have five hours and fifteen minutes to go until I reach my destination. I was wondering what to do, and then I realized— if I uncheck the “avoid highways” option, the GPS will guide me through expressways. Taking the highway saves about 30 minutes. So I decided to use it for a short stretch as a compromise. This bike has a Dual Clutch Transmission (DCT), an automatic gearbox that makes it great for long-distance travel, but still— riding for eight hours a day is pretty tough, even on this machine. Even driving a *car* for eight hours a day is exhausting, right? Anyway, I’ll probably have to pay around ten to fifteen dollars in toll fees. That’s about four times more expensive than in Korea. Still, to save time, I’ll take the highway for a short while. Unless something unexpected happens, I’ll keep going without breaks— it’s going to be a long ride ahead. Let’s go together! Let’s hit the road! Wow, this is incredible! You know what I mean, right? Long-distance driving is tough without music. Near the end of this coastal road, I heard there’s another famous scenic spot—so I decided to stop. Lion Rock, Wakayama, Japan This place is called Lion Rock. They say it was named because the protruding rock looks like a lion. It’s another masterpiece of nature shaped by sea erosion, and it’s even listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. By the way, this ocean— isn’t it just magnificent? Having seen the sights and finished lunch, it’s time to hit the road again. See that? Four hours and twenty-three minutes left. 214 kilometers to go. After leaving the coastal route, I merged onto the expressway, heading deep into the inland of Honshu. There’s a saying: “From afar, it’s a comedy; up close, it’s a tragedy.” It may look fun and easy to ride on such a long, straight road, but that’s not always the case. When you first ride on the expressway with a motorcycle,
(in Korea, motorcycles are not allowed on highways) it feels fascinating, exciting, and beautiful.
(in Korea, motorcycles are not allowed on highways) But after a while, that excitement fades away. And with tunnels—it’s fine when they’re short, but once you enter a long one, you can’t see any scenery at all. It feels like a mental endurance test—sleepy and boring. So unless I listen to some music through my headphones, it’s hard to keep going. I think I’ve already passed about 20 kilometers of tunnels in total. Just tunnels! Still, since the traffic is smooth, I finally exit the expressway. I think this section might be a free expressway. There are quite a few toll-free highways in Japan. Unlike in Korea, where you must pass a toll gate before entering, here it’s more like— “Go ahead, come a little further, up to the toll gate.” “Oh, you’re leaving midway?” “Then it’s free of charge.” —That’s kind of what it feels like. Later, thanks to one of my subscribers, I learned that this road isn’t a highway, but something called a “bypass.” This bypass serves as a detour around congested areas or mountain regions, similar to a “motorway” or “expressway” in Korea. Usually, when I used around 40–50 km of it, I paid about 15,000 to 20,000 won, but today, I was lucky enough to use a free section and saved about 30 minutes. Passing through this road that changes from sapphire blue to emerald green, I continue deeper into Honshu. As I head inland, the relay of greenery stretching ahead seems to awaken the nostalgia that almost fell asleep within me. Sometimes, when I come down a hill and turn a corner, I find small villages like this. Moments like these remind me of the peaceful countryside where I grew up. It makes my heart feel warm and calm. Isn’t it just like a painting? Right now, I’m at the beginning of my Honshu journey. Starting from Osaka, passing through Wakayama, and heading inland. It’s almost my first time here. So except for the sea I saw earlier, Honshu, unlike Kyushu or Shikoku, feels surprisingly similar to the Korean countryside. At least, from what I’ve seen along my route. So right now, it feels like I’m riding through the Korean countryside. Only the lanes are reversed. Do you see these vast plains? The weather is so clear that I can see far into the distance — it’s all flat land. I can even see the horizon. A quiet country road in Honshu, where only serenity flows. Would you like to ride with me? It’s truly… so beautiful. This is exactly the countryside scenery I had imagined in Japan. It feels like those rural landscapes you often see in Japanese animation. Even though I’ve been riding all day, I still have two more hours to go. As I mentioned earlier, apart from the occasional vast plains and the uniquely beautiful scenery, the landscapes felt so familiar, almost like those in Korea. I said earlier that the countryside of Honshu feels very similar to Korea’s, that it looked so familiar, right? It’s as if Honshu heard me and said, “When did I say that?” — showing me a new kind of scenery. How cute. Just like a tsundere. I’ll stop by a supermarket to buy dinner for tonight and breakfast for tomorrow. I usually make it a habit to visit supermarkets in the evening. Here’s a small tip for travelers: Around 6 p.m., discount stickers start appearing on food. They offer discounts ranging from 20% to as much as 50%. So I usually prepare meals for both dinner and the next day’s lunch in advance. Alright, let’s head to the final destination. My last destination today is Japan’s largest freshwater lake, which I mentioned earlier. I’m heading to a free campsite near Lake Biwa. And tomorrow, I plan to circle around the beautiful Lake Biwa. Romance is literally flowing in the air. Quick! Catch the romance of this moment! It’s just so beautiful. Wow… the sunset is melting all the green away. After a long 13-hour journey, I finally arrived at Lake Biwa. Wow… it looks like a moving painting. It’s almost completely dusk now, and the dim sky reflecting on the river creates such a romantic atmosphere. I’m now almost at Lake Biwa, and the river I see beside me is probably one of its tributaries. If this tributary is already this wide, just how huge must Lake Biwa be? I’m really looking forward to it. This isn’t the sea — it’s a lake. And this is just a tiny part of it. Everyone, after 13 hours of travel, I’ve finally arrived. Night has already fallen here. Arrived at 7:49 p.m. I was wondering where to pitch my tent, and there was only one other person in the parking lot. So I set it up quickly in the corner, thinking it would be fine there. It’s now 8:40 p.m., and I’m finally having dinner. Today’s sea and nature were amazing, but more importantly, it was the day I learned my physical limits. On a good day, 8 hours of riding is my limit — anything more is just too much. Still, it’s all valuable data for my future travels. Anyway, putting everything else aside, before that— For myself who worked hard today, Cheers! And when I asked the person camping over there if this place is safe from bears or troublemakers, They told me not to worry. So I think I can sleep peacefully. Anyway, the long journey of today has come to an end. Tomorrow, I’ll travel around Lake Biwa in a full circle. I haven’t decided on my next destination yet, whether I’ll head east toward Mount Fuji near Tokyo, or north toward the Noto Peninsula — I still haven’t made up my mind. Well, I’ll just go where my heart leads. Anyway, thank you again for joining me on today’s journey.
(End credits available) If you enjoyed this travel story, please don’t forget to like and subscribe.
(End credits available) Next time, I’ll return with another story
(End credits available) that begins at Lake Biwa but ends who knows where.
(End credits available) Thank you.
(End credits available) The current time is past 2 a.m. I’m transferring the last file now. About 8GB left. The file is so large that the transfer alone takes about 3–4 hours. And right now, I’m feeling quite uneasy, because a car that’s neither a camper van nor a minivan keeps circling around here. I started to wonder—could they be targeting human trafficking? So I took out some kitchen tools I had with me. You can’t see them in the video, but I have scissors and a knife beside me. Just in case I need to escape quickly. Anyway, thank you all for accompanying me on this imperfect journey. Truly, thank you. Lake Biwa, Shiga Prefecture, Japan The morning light over Lake Biwa brings nothing but calm and serenity. Today, I’ll ride along the western shore of Lake Biwa with you all, and head toward Shirakawa-go, a village so unique that it’s registered as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Before we leave, I’ll wash my face first. Huh? You think I look pitiful? You think I planned this look? This restroom is an old-fashioned squat toilet. There’s a bigger parking lot nearby with a restroom for washing up, but I came to the wrong one. So I have no choice but to wash up miserably here. Wow… it really is a huge lake. As soon as I started riding around Lake Biwa, its unique scenery caught my eye. It’s fascinating that in Japan, you can even change lanes inside tunnels, isn’t it? In Korea, lane changes are prohibited inside tunnels except for a few special cases. Finding these small differences is fun sometimes. Don’t these houses look like they’re at least several decades, if not centuries, old? They’ve probably been repaired and maintained over the years. Wow, can you believe this isn’t the ocean? Have you ever heard the term “lake beach” before? It’s my first time hearing it. I heard there’s one here, so I’m heading there now. Since the lake is so big, it must look just like the sea. Wow, I’ve never seen a monkey warning sign before. Well, I did see monkeys on the road before. I guess they’re as dangerous here as deer or wild boars are in Korea. Hello! Collecting these colorful experiences from the start of Lake Biwa, I’ve arrived at a lakeside beach called “Omi Maiko Nakahama.” This lakeside beach, as if it had been waiting for me, was filled with the warm and friendly daily life of local residents. Since it’s a freshwater lake, people are fishing here. Let’s go take a closer look. – Hello.
– Nice to meet you. – May I take a look at this?
– Hm? At what? – I’m Korean.
– Yeah, Korean. – I don’t speak Japanese well. May I take a look at this?
– It’s called “Ayu.” – Ayu!
– Ayu. Are you..? It seems like this fish is called “Ayu.” Or maybe “Ayu” means “to see”? “Ayu” means “sweetfish.” – It’s the sweetfish of Lake Biwa.
– Sweetfish. Ah, amazing! The sight of the elderly lady fishing so skillfully looks really cool, doesn’t it? Since it rained not long ago in this area, they say this fishing method takes advantage of the flow of water coming into the lake. Instead of using bait on the hook, it seems to be a snagging technique.
(*Snagging: catching fish by hooking without bait) Yes, it’s snag fishing.
(*Snagging: catching fish by hooking without bait) – It’s fun.
– Right, isn’t it? – Grandma, may I try it once too?
– Of course. – You want to try fishing, right? This one?
– Yes. Go ahead, try it. Thankfully, she kindly handed me the fishing rod. – Aim for the flow of the water.
– The flow? It seems I have to aim for fish moving with the current, but can I really catch one? But then, at that moment! – Oh!
– You got one! Luckily, one oblivious fish got caught on the hook. I caught it! – Fun, right?
– Yes, it’s so much fun! They say there’s something called “beginner’s luck,” right? After that, I couldn’t catch even one more fish. Just one more! Thank you very much, ma’am. Thank you! I think I caught the last fish. That was fun. Starting from the entrance, I carved happy memories and headed deeper into the lakeside beach. Wow, it really looks just like the sea. This lakeside beach, which looks like a seaside shore, is filled with the leisure of people enjoying the early summer. It’s very similar to the seaside, but there are subtle differences. The grains are a bit too large to be called sea sand. Anyway, look at the color of the water. It’s crystal clear. If you look without knowing it’s a lake, it truly looks like the ocean. Don’t you think so? Except for the fact that it’s called a “lakeside beach,” it looks just like the seaside, so after a quick look, I turned the handle northward. Lake Biwa is named after the Japanese instrument “biwa.” Its shape resembles the instrument, hence the name “Biwa-ko.” That’s why it’s called “Biwa-ko.” The most impressive thing was that, in terms of area, it’s large enough to submerge Seoul, the capital of Korea, with space left over. That’s how huge it is. Of course, compared to the great lakes of North America, it’s smaller, but you’d never see scenery like this in Korea. It’s my first time seeing it with my own eyes. Oh! What’s this? It’s so beautiful! I have to stop! You have to stop at places like this! This is a shrine called “Shirahige,” and it seems to be more popular than I expected. They say the place gets packed with tourists on weekends who come to photograph the shrine floating on the lake. You can tell right away—it’s totally an Instagram photo spot, isn’t it? And the torii gate floating on the lake can be interpreted in many different ways. They say that passing through the torii means “heading to another world” or “entering the realm of the gods.” So, the line of torii gates that starts from the upper side of this shrine continues all the way to the lake. I think it might have been built as a passageway connecting to the “other world.” It’s just a guess based on some facts, but isn’t it fun to let your imagination wander like that? After that, I rode along the vast lakeside and finally reached the northernmost point of Lake Biwa. That place you can see far in the distance is probably Kyoto—that’s where I started from. The straight-line distance from there to here is about 50 kilometers. You can imagine just how big this lake is—it’s truly enormous. I filled my small heart with this vast lake and twisted the throttle toward Shirakawago. I’ve circled about half of Lake Biwa, and now I’m heading toward my accommodation. I was planning to go to a place called “Shokawamura” today, but the lodgings there are too expensive. And since there’s a chance of rain early in the morning, camping seems difficult too. So, I’m going to Fukui City, which is about two hours away from Shirakawago. Since I haven’t been able to wash up since yesterday, I’ll clean up there first, and then plan to leave early tomorrow morning. Remember how I said I hadn’t decided whether to go north or south? I’ve decided to head north from Shirakawago. I’m going to tour around the Noto Peninsula up north and then come back down. So if I stop by Shokawamura and then head up to Noto Peninsula, tomorrow will also be a long driving day. So today, I’ll try to rest a bit earlier. Surprisingly, the route to Fukui turned out to be a coastal road. Even as darkness fell, this nature’s little showcase didn’t stop for a second. Now I’ve entered Fukui Prefecture, where my accommodation is. I’m almost in the city center, and I noticed something quite unique. There are no tall buildings. I’m sure they exist, but I haven’t seen a single one so far. The tallest ones are maybe three stories high. It’s really an interesting sight. Could it be because this area has a lot of earthquakes? I don’t know the reason, but it’s quite fascinating. (A tall building suddenly appears) I’ve arrived. The place I’m staying tonight is right in front of the station. I was going to just leave my bike, but in every country, there are always strange people around train stations. So, I covered my motorcycle with a cover, and I’m taking all my valuables upstairs with me. The room seems rather small—just a desk and a bed. And here’s what the bathroom looks like. How should I put it—it has a bit of a retro vibe. Wow, and look at this! Doesn’t it look really old? It says “RADIO BGM” on it. (“Romance” starts playing) Wow, it’s amazing that this thing still works. Oh, I guess this is also how you turn on the light. It’s my first time seeing lights operated by a machine like this. And here’s another curious thing about this place— The Wi-Fi isn’t installed in the rooms; you have to borrow a device from the front desk, and they give you this. You plug this little thing into a power outlet, and connect both ends with this LAN cable to use it. And just like that, morning has come here in Fukui, on Honshu. What surprised me most when I woke up this morning was— there’s a bicycle parking tower right next to the station. Not for motorcycles or cars—for bicycles! It seems that students and workers ride their bicycles here to take the train, and leave them parked before commuting. Since Japan is a country that uses bicycles a lot, each one even has a frame number or identification tag for management. It really shows how well they treat bicycles here. There must be hundreds of bicycles there. Anyway, today I’ll go through Shirakawago and head to a place called Takaoka City. The reason I’m so drawn to Shirakawamura is that it’s a village that preserves traditional Japanese houses. I really love that calm, quiet countryside atmosphere and gentle nature. That’s why I’ve always wanted to visit. And although there wasn’t supposed to be rain today, as you can see—it’s starting to fall. Sleeping in was one variable, the rain’s another—everything’s a variable today. Since it’s raining, I’ll drive carefully and make my way to Shokawago. Are you holding on tight? Let’s go! It’s so peaceful and quiet. Wow… just look at this scenery! Even though it’s raining, it makes my heart feel sunny. How grateful I feel… Take a look at this view. Humidity is really fascinating, isn’t it? Just by having moisture in the air, the same scenery looks more mysterious and dreamy. Nature truly is full of wonder. This dam is so cute. Wow, this road is so beautiful. Well, what’s the big deal if it rains? There’s its own charm to a rainy day, right? Don’t you think so, everyone? But looking at the rain, it doesn’t seem like it will stop anytime soon. It looks like it’s going to get heavier. That’s the direction I need to go, and it seems like it’ll rain even more. I guess I’ll have to put on my rain gear. Excuse me, but I’d better put it on quickly under this roof. I’m already soaked all over. Originally, they said there would only be drizzle early in the morning, and no rain today. Sometimes you just get caught in an unexpected downpour like this. If you look out there, you can see it’s not going to stop anytime soon. It’s probably going to pour even harder. But on the bright side, Shirakawamura covered in rain and mist will probably look even more beautiful. The rain is expected to continue for the next two hours. When I arrive at Shokawamura, I’ll get to see a village veiled in beautiful mist. I can’t wait to see it. Right now, all I can hear are raindrops hitting my helmet and the sound of the engine. And with this scenery in front of me… it’s pure romance. Wow, it’s just so beautiful. After crossing mountains and valleys again and again, I finally reached the outskirts of Shirakawago. I’ve just come down the mountain and am heading toward the village. I found a slightly larger road. I’ve been riding for about four hours now, and I still haven’t seen a convenience store. Oh my god, this is exhausting. But somehow, I have a feeling there’s going to be one around here. Wow! Yes! Finally found it! At last, I found one… thank goodness. It’s my first break in about four hours. After such a long rainy ride, finding a convenience store feels like rain after a drought. Because I held the handlebar with wet gloves for too long, my hands are wrinkled and marked deeply. Time is tight, so I have to eat quickly. Today I bought chicken breast, a rice ball, and a piece of fried chicken for some extra calories. It’s boneless chicken, and it tastes exactly like the kind they sell in Korean convenience stores. Let’s cheer up and keep going strong! Even though it’s midsummer, it’s quite chilly here in the mountains. If I weren’t wearing my rain gear, I’d be freezing. The thermometer shows 13 degrees Celsius right now. So, in the middle of summer, I actually turned on the heated grips. My gloves are wet too, so my hands are really cold. Finally, the rain has stopped. I can finally see clearly ahead. I’m getting closer to my destination — Shirahawa…mura? I keep forgetting the name, but anyway, I can already see the traditional houses ahead. My first impression of Shirakawago, the place I’d long wanted to visit, was its quiet and gentle calmness—just as I imagined. And above it, the rain mist created a serene and mysterious atmosphere. This place, “Shirakawago,” is a village in Gifu Prefecture registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s famous for its unique architectural style, right? The reason the roofs are shaped like this is because the snowfall here in winter is tremendous.
(One of the world’s heaviest snowfall regions) In 2006, it reportedly recorded about three meters of snow.
(One of the world’s heaviest snowfall regions) So the houses were built in this structure to withstand the heavy weight of the snow. The roofs are also very thick, and they seem to be made of straw. Over time, they become worn out and need repair, right? At those times, it’s impossible to do it alone, so the villagers all gather together to help—preserving a traditional rural custom of mutual assistance. Most of the houses in this village look very similar, don’t they? That gives a sense of harmony, and even the fire alarms and sirens are designed to match the overall scenery. Japan is really amazing at things like this. The village is so quiet and peaceful that it’s perfect for a walk, but oh no, the rain just won’t leave me alone again. I even took off my raincoat, and now it’s started pouring once more. I wanted to walk around a little longer, but it seems I can’t. I’d better get going soon — it takes about two hours to reach my lodging in Takaoka. It’s a pity, but I have to move on. Looking back, the places I left behind with a bit of longing always remained the most beautiful in my memory. And when I turn away with gratitude even in moments like this, nature always takes out the most beautiful gift from its bundle and presents it to me. Breathing in this scenery deeply one last time, I turn my handlebars toward “Takaoka City,” just below the Noto Peninsula. Unbelievable… as soon as I set off, the rain stops, and sunlight breaks over the mountain ridge. The sky is really teasing me today. It feels like it’s playing a prank on me. Or maybe it’s the sky’s kindness, telling me, “Hurry to your lodging before sunset.” I’ve passed through countless tunnels to get here, and it seems the clouds got trapped by the mountains, releasing all their rain there, while here it stayed dry. Now the sky is completely clear—there isn’t a single cloud. I wish I had someone by my side to share this view with. It’s too beautiful to see alone. Go, “Kim Outside”! You can do it! The sky is beautiful, but the reflection of the sky in the rice fields is just as stunning. Until now, I always found driving at night terrifying, but not today — not tonight. On both sides, lush green rice fields stretch out, with small rural houses scattered here and there, and the scent of a summer night fills the air… Ah, what a beautiful night it is. After a long journey again today, I’ve reached my base camp for heading to the Noto Peninsula — my lodging in Takaoka City. By the time I finished everything and returned to my room with food from a convenience store, it was already around 10 p.m. At the end of each day, I can’t help but laugh to myself. (Saw something strange at a park) I think I just witnessed something odd… Wait a second, I’ll tell you after I go upstairs. I was filming while passing through a park just now, and there was a boy and a girl who looked like students sitting on a bench — the girl’s skirt was quite short. The boy was sitting, and the girl was sitting on top of him, facing the opposite direction. Surely… that can’t be what I think it is? They were embracing while she had her legs up on him. I know this is a country with a liberal view on intimacy, but still… in a public place? Really? On January 1, 2024, a magnitude 7.6 earthquake struck off the coast of the Noto Peninsula. It was the largest earthquake since the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake. Everything was destroyed, collapsed, and shattered — a truly devastating disaster. And during this journey, I too experienced yet another massive earthquake. “Earthquake Alert” “It’s an earthquake.” Just as I was about to depart, a strong earthquake struck. I could clearly feel the ground shaking violently. Ironically, I’m now heading straight toward the epicenter that swallowed everything. Though I deeply love nature, I want to witness its duality with my own eyes, to learn gratitude and a more humble attitude. Even in a place that seems filled only with despair, warmth still remains. Thank you for coming to Japan. I’d like to take you into Noto Peninsula — a land where life once again blooms over the scars of the quake. This video deals with natural disasters that can happen anywhere, to anyone.
Please refrain from sensitive comments that may hurt others,
and take this moment to reflect on safety.
I sincerely pray for Noto Peninsula’s swift recovery and peace. In the middle of Noto Peninsula, there’s a place called “Noto Island.” So I plan to circle around “Noto Island,” and stay overnight at a roadside rest area located in the northern part of the peninsula. Even though I’m getting closer to the epicenter, my first impression of Noto Peninsula was that it seemed like a peaceful countryside village. Wow, it’s picture-perfect. Even trains are passing by. This place I’m driving through now is also part of the Noto Peninsula. Perhaps because it’s far from the epicenter of the earthquake earlier this year, there are no signs of collapsed houses, landslides, or damaged roads. Only the endless stretch of beautiful green fields. Passing through the gently swaying greenery, I finally reached “Noto Island.” Here’s the entrance bridge to “Noto Island.” Its shape is quite unique. The middle section rises in a wave-like curve. It’s probably designed that way so boats can pass underneath. I came to “Noto Island” without any particular plan. As you can see, I haven’t even set a GPS route. So I’ll just follow the road and go wherever my heart takes me. But that sense of leisure lasted only a moment. As soon as I entered Noto Island, I was overwhelmed by a terrifying sight I had never seen before. I’ve heard that Japanese wooden houses are strong against earthquakes, but seeing this, I can imagine just how powerful the quake must have been to destroy such a house. Sadly, this building now allows only the “wind” to pass through. And even the buildings that barely survived nearby had their outer walls collapse, leaving only the skeletal frames behind. From the back, the scene looks even more devastating. The front part still retained some form, but the rear had completely collapsed. The utensils left untouched seemed to silently tell the story of that frantic moment. I can only hope they evacuated safely. Even these stone monuments have all toppled over. Well, how could they withstand such a quake… This is a “Torii” gate. Even the roof of the Torii has fallen off. Just how powerful was that earthquake… Although this is still within the Noto Peninsula, it’s quite far from the epicenter. If the damage is this bad here, I can’t even imagine what it’s like near the epicenter. Look at this severe road displacement. There’s about a 50-centimeter difference in height — roughly up to my knees. I’m not sure if the ground sank or rose, but… The earthquake must have been truly powerful. What I saw earlier was nothing compared to this. To think it could be destroyed this badly… I’ve often seen roads closed for construction work while traveling across Japan, but those cases were usually partial closures due to damage on one side. Here, however, the entire road has been wiped out. Seeing this, I can truly grasp how powerful that earthquake must have been. As the sun slowly begins to set, I decided to hurry and head further north. I entered Noto Island from the six o’clock direction, and there’s another bridge on the nine o’clock side. That’s this one here, called the “Twin Bridge.” Look at this — the road has cracks stretching far into the distance. Since the road is closed, it seems the bridge has become quite unstable. Still, I think it’s impressive that it withstood a magnitude 7.6 earthquake. With no other choice, I turned back the way I came. While resting, an elderly woman living in the area spoke to me. – I’m Korean. – I’m traveling around Japan. – I’m touring all over Japan. – Traveling around Japan by motorcycle. – Where do you sleep?
– I plan to go camping. – There’s a “Yukidomari” nearby.
– What is “Yukidomari”? She told me many things, and I felt sorry that I couldn’t understand Japanese well. – Thank you for telling me. Thank you for coming to Japan. Yes, thank you very much. Please drive safely. Goodbye. Even though this place must be going through such a difficult time, her warm words — “thank you for coming” and “stay safe” — were enough to melt away all my tension. Curry for 100 yen? I’m hungry — should I go check it out? Ah, I misread it. That’s not curry, is it? This is the word “オール (Ōru),” which is the Japanese transcription of the English word “ALL.” It means that all drinks cost 100 yen. So it meant the drinks were 100 yen. How could I have possibly read that as “curry”…? You’re looking at a textbook example of an idiot. I just finished the coffee I had, so I’ll buy one before leaving. After this, I’ll leave Noto Island and head toward a quiet seaside spot to rest my head. In the first episode of my Japan travel series, I mentioned I often stay at “Michi-no-Eki” (roadside rest areas). I tried it once after that, but it didn’t work out, and I’ve never actually stayed at one. Now, after a month, I’m trying again — though if it’s off-limits, I guess there’s nothing I can do. Beauty is flowing all around me. Today, if I find a restaurant crowded with people along the way, I’ll have my meal there. [Arrived at Michi-no-Eki (Roadside Station)] I’ll stay here tonight. I couldn’t find a supermarket, so I didn’t get dinner, but I’ll get water from the vending machine over there, and I still have the sandwich I saved from this morning. That’ll be enough for my meal. And what’s left in my ice box? Rice! Mayonnaise! Ah, I still have one curry! No need to stop by the market. The sunset that appeared at just the right time seemed to say, “Be content with me,” as it painted the sky red. Perhaps the saying “High risk, high return” was born for moments like this. How’s the atmosphere here? There’s only one car and me. I’m really looking forward to spending a night in such a simple village. I’m already full. Right now, sea fog is rolling in from afar. I think I’ll need to be careful about keeping warm tonight. – Oh, the entire area rose by three meters?
– Yeah, it did. – The earthquake was incredible, wasn’t it?
– Wow, amazing. The entire coastline here rose about three meters. An elderly local told me that this earthquake lifted the ground here by about three meters. An elderly local told me that this earthquake lifted the ground here by about three meters. This coastline you see now is normally underwater, even during low tide, but it became visible after being raised by about three meters. It really is part of the “Ring of Fire.” Seeing things like this reminds me how mysterious nature is — and how terrifying it can be. Of course, sleeping alone in a place with no one around was even scarier. The current time is 4:30 a.m. That truck over there arrived around 8 p.m. last night and has been idling with the engine running ever since, so I slept with my noise-cancelling earphones on, but woke up the moment the battery ran out. That was around 3 a.m. Still, I’m trying to think positively. Thanks to that vehicle, between the two distant capes over there, I was lucky enough to witness the morning fog drifting out from the bay. But another issue has come up. The width of this chair is narrower than I expected — my shoulders stick out when I lie down. So right after waking up, I fell to the ground along with the tent. One of the tent poles broke. So now, this tent is no longer a self-supporting one. There are still about 40 days left in this trip. I’m looking forward to the rest of the camping. Just as I was about to finish packing and leave! “Earthquake alert” Ah, I shouldn’t stay here. Just as I was about to depart, a strong earthquake suddenly struck. I could feel the ground shaking violently. It seems the Noto Peninsula area experiences frequent earthquakes. That really startled me. The elderly residents of the village all evacuated outside. What, again? Even after that major quake, my smartphone and the village loudspeakers kept ringing nonstop. Because there were as many as twelve aftershocks continuing at five-minute intervals. I suddenly started to feel scared. Only two of them appear in the video, but the earthquakes kept happening one after another. It seems that the crustal activity around here is quite intense. The first earthquake I felt was measured at magnitude 5.9, according to the Japan Meteorological Agency. It was so strong that I could feel the ground shaking even while standing still. I’m scared. I’ll drive carefully today and check the road surfaces closely, and when passing along the mountains, I’ll watch out for falling rocks and landslides. I was planning to circle around the entire Noto Peninsula today, but I’ll have to adjust my schedule. I thought about turning back out of concern, but my curiosity ended up winning over my fear. Maybe I’m not meant to live a long life after all. The rocks visible along the coast look quite unusual. At first glance, they look like floating styrofoam buoys washed up by the sea, but they’re actually basalt stones full of small holes. Seeing this kind of basalt scattered along the beach is truly unique. The nature spread out before my eyes looks calm and peaceful, as if what happened this morning had nothing to do with it. But that serenity lasts only for a moment. As if to prove that I’m heading toward the epicenter, heartbreaking scenes begin to appear. I’m now on my way to the epicenter of the Noto earthquake, and the closer I get, the more collapsed and broken houses I see. The roads are in the same condition, with many of them heavily damaged. It seems that the ground has significantly risen and sunk in different areas. There are also many completely destroyed houses. This used to be a regular road, but it has all been washed away. You can see temporary traffic lights installed every 100 meters or so, sometimes even closer. Everywhere I go, there are landslides. See that hill up ahead? That used to be flat, but they built a new road right over the landslide. It must have been more efficient than clearing the dirt away. Here, the landslide swept down the soil and destroyed the houses. I truly hope everyone made it out safely… The closer I get, the more devastating the scene becomes. This entire village has collapsed. I stopped by a convenience store for breakfast. It seems the power supply isn’t stable; they’re using generators. Helicopters are flying all over the place right now. Perhaps because of this morning’s strong quake, they’re inspecting for additional damage and strengthening the area’s security. I understood why such strict monitoring, even with helicopters, was necessary after passing through a town called Kawai-machi. Wow… that huge building has completely fallen over. How strong was this earthquake…? This place is about 30 kilometers from the epicenter, but seeing an entire community reduced to ruins is truly heartbreaking and terrifying. What I saw earlier on my way here was nothing compared to this. There isn’t a single intact building. It looks like a war zone. That blue pipe looks like a water line. The water supply must be cut off, and they’re probably bringing in water from a nearby town. Even with this tragic sight before me, the sea remains indifferent, yet breathtakingly beautiful. The coastline across the water doesn’t look normal either. It’s filled with heavy construction equipment, and they seem to be repairing something. It looks like they’re also reinstalling the power lines. There’s probably nothing left undamaged. Power poles, houses, workplaces — everything must have collapsed. If it weren’t for the earthquake, this would have been such a beautiful coastal road. Wow, just look how beautiful it is… As I approached the epicenter, I was forced to stop — the road suddenly ended. Is it safe to go? – Can’t pass through?
– No, it’s closed. The road ahead is closed to traffic. Ah, it’s under construction. (Advanced body language explaining the excavator) The GPS shows that the road is open, but judging by the road condition, it’s definitely not possible. Yeah, no way anyone could pass through here. The cape in the distance has completely collapsed. I started to see more and more damaged roads that I couldn’t fully show in the video. If that earthquake had lasted just a little longer, these roads might have all collapsed too. Look underneath the road — the inside is completely hollow. So I need to be especially careful on the outer edge. It breaks apart so easily like this. If something heavy passes over it, it could collapse at any moment. I have to move very cautiously. There’s no other way — I’ll take a detour and head toward “Battleship Island.” It seems I’ve gotten as close to the epicenter as possible for now. The closer I get to the epicenter, the more severe the damage to the roads and buildings becomes. Most of the roads and infrastructure are destroyed, so I think only construction vehicles can access those areas now. Even these structures meant to prevent landslides have completely collapsed under the overwhelming force of the earthquake. As you can see, I’ve seen dozens of police cars today. I’m not sure if I’ve been passing the same ones over and over or if there really are that many, but they seem to be patrolling more for safety and security than for crime prevention. What is that…? A huge old tree has fallen and crushed a house. Huh? It was supposed to be a clear day, but suddenly it’s started raining heavily. It feels as if the weather itself is reflecting the atmosphere of this place. This isn’t a place for cheerful skies. It’s as if the sky is crying for all those who lost their lives and for their families. I’ve arrived at Misukejima, also known as “Battleship Island.” It looks completely different from the photos I had seen. They say the island got its nickname because, when viewed from here, it looks like the bow of a battleship. Now, however, its surface has been completely destroyed. And yet, I can’t help but feel relieved, because this place is only about 10 kilometers away from the epicenter. It’s no exaggeration to say it was right at the heart of the quake. And you can also see traces of the tsunami that came with it. As you can see, the earthquake swept away so much. At the place where lovers and families once rang the bell of love, only a solitary statue of Buddha remains. The tsunami must have surged quite high. Even the upper parking lots are covered in thick layers of sand. And look at the building by the sea that somehow survived. It’s buried under piles of sand. Even the inside of the building is filled with sand. And do you see those black objects on the floor? They look like chunks of asphalt. Maybe they were carried here from somewhere along the road. If you look at the parking area, you can see temporary housing has been set up. Many nearby homes are heavily damaged, so it seems the government has provided temporary shelters for those who lost theirs. This is the point where I was stopped earlier on my way to the epicenter. And right now, I’m here. The epicenter is over there, near “Godzilla Rock.” When I measured the straight-line distance between the two, it was only about 10 kilometers. At magnitude 7.6, that’s practically the same as being at the epicenter. It may not be the very center, but this place clearly suffered a lot of damage too. “Battleship Island” is a tragic result of natural forces, but I still hope its infrastructure will be restored as soon as possible.
1343
02:01:12,265 –> 02:01:19,739
I started to see more and more damaged roads that I couldn’t fully show in the video. If that earthquake had lasted just a little longer, these roads might have all collapsed too. Look underneath the road — the inside is completely hollow. So I need to be especially careful on the outer edge. It breaks apart so easily like this. If something heavy passes over it, it could collapse at any moment. I have to move very cautiously. There’s no other way — I’ll take a detour and head toward “Battleship Island.” It seems I’ve gotten as close to the epicenter as possible for now. The closer I get to the epicenter, the more severe the damage to the roads and buildings becomes. Most of the roads and infrastructure are destroyed, so I think only construction vehicles can access those areas now. Even these structures meant to prevent landslides have completely collapsed under the overwhelming force of the earthquake. As you can see, I’ve seen dozens of police cars today. I’m not sure if I’ve been passing the same ones over and over or if there really are that many, but they seem to be patrolling more for safety and security than for crime prevention. What is that…? A huge old tree has fallen and crushed a house. Huh? It was supposed to be a clear day, but suddenly it’s started raining heavily. It feels as if the weather itself is reflecting the atmosphere of this place. This isn’t a place for cheerful skies. It’s as if the sky is crying for all those who lost their lives and for their families. I’ve arrived at Misukejima, also known as “Battleship Island.” It looks completely different from the photos I had seen. They say the island got its nickname because, when viewed from here, it looks like the bow of a battleship. Now, however, its surface has been completely destroyed. And yet, I can’t help but feel relieved, because this place is only about 10 kilometers away from the epicenter. It’s no exaggeration to say it was right at the heart of the quake. And you can also see traces of the tsunami that came with it. As you can see, the earthquake swept away so much. At the place where lovers and families once rang the bell of love, only a solitary statue of Buddha remains. The tsunami must have surged quite high. Even the upper parking lots are covered in thick layers of sand. And look at the building by the sea that somehow survived. It’s buried under piles of sand. Even the inside of the building is filled with sand. And do you see those black objects on the floor? They look like chunks of asphalt. Maybe they were carried here from somewhere along the road. If you look at the parking area, you can see temporary housing has been set up. Many nearby homes are heavily damaged, so it seems the government has provided temporary shelters for those who lost theirs. This is the point where I was stopped earlier on my way to the epicenter. And right now, I’m here. The epicenter is over there, near “Godzilla Rock.” When I measured the straight-line distance between the two, it was only about 10 kilometers. At magnitude 7.6, that’s practically the same as being at the epicenter. It may not be the very center, but this place clearly suffered a lot of damage too. “Battleship Island” is a tragic result of natural forces, but I still hope its infrastructure will be restored as soon as possible. Now that I’ve traveled across the Noto Peninsula, I’ll head straight down toward the southern part of Honshu. Before going to Mt. Fuji, there’s a beautiful valley called “Kamikōchi” located in Nagano Prefecture. I’m on my way there now, heading toward a rider’s house nearby. And as expected! According to the GPS, it’s going to take seven hours. Every time I check the route, I’m surprised again. That means I woke up at 3 a.m. and will be driving for over ten hours… I’m not sure if my body can handle it. Anyway, I need to move in that direction. If I get too tired, I’ll stay overnight somewhere nearby. I’m sure there are still many beautiful places in Noto that I haven’t seen yet. But the reason I’m leaving so soon is because, everywhere I go, I only see damaged nature—and I just can’t look at it calmly. I kept thinking—if I had been under one of those landslides caused by the quake, what would’ve happened to me? That sad thought kept repeating in my mind. So I decided to leave the Noto Peninsula quickly. A long day of endless driving awaits. Let’s stay sharp and head down to southern Honshu. Let’s go! You said it wouldn’t rain! You said it would be sunny today! I don’t mind the rain at all. But it keeps raining unexpectedly. There are rain clouds only in the direction I’m heading—while the opposite side is completely sunny. Moments like this really make me feel teased by nature. Once I start riding, the rain will stop right away, won’t it? Right? I have a feeling I won’t be able to reach my planned destination today. At this point, even Murphy’s Law would probably take my side. That way, this way, that way, this way. It’s so annoying how the dark clouds keep following the direction I go. It’s 2:30 p.m. now. I was planning to eat as soon as I found a convenience store, but I’ll keep going until I pass through the rain clouds—it’s pouring heavily right now. I’ll keep riding without stopping until the rain stops. It’s a showdown! Can you see? There are rain clouds only on my route. Correct! It’s harassment! Getting caught in the rain means I’ll have a lot more to deal with once I reach my accommodation. Still, I can smile instead of complaining—because it’s something that’s already happened. As if by magic, the rain clouds disappear instantly, and the bright sky starts smiling at me. Wow, it suddenly became really sunny! Just three minutes ago, it was pouring rain—and now the weather has completely changed. What a colorful day it’s been. I finally managed to stop at a convenience store that appeared at the perfect time. Now I can show you how heavy the rain was—and how it cleared up in just a few minutes. The water in my gloves hasn’t even drained yet. That’s how drastically the weather changed. My meal for today hasn’t changed—it’s always the same. Protein, and hash browns for carbs. And vegetable juice—pretty much the same every meal. And vegetable juice—pretty much the same every meal. If possible, I’d like to have a proper meal at a restaurant. But it’s already past 2:30 p.m. From experience, most restaurants stop serving food around this time. Especially in rural areas like this. It’s extremely hot right now, and since my bike is black, anything left on top dries up instantly, so I’m taking a short maintenance break. Because of a few issues, I probably won’t make it to the lodging near Kamikōchi as I originally planned. Instead, I’ll head to a place to stay in Toyama City, which is about halfway between here and Kamikōchi. And come to think of it, I’ve already used all my clothes, so I need to do some laundry too. Maybe it’s for the best. I’ll take it as a good opportunity and get up early again tomorrow like today. Alright then, let’s go — with this beautiful weather, and with me! High five! Finally, I can see Toyama City in the distance. But I still have 44 minutes to go. The city traffic must be pretty bad. Wow, the city is so flat. There’s almost no difference in elevation from hills or tall buildings. This area is called “Toyama,” which literally means “rich mountain.” But strangely, there isn’t a single mountain in sight. I wonder why they named it “Toyama.” And I just noticed something else. Since coming to Japan, I’ve seen a lot of trams like this. If this were Korea, the tram tracks would be fenced off for safety, but here in Japan, there aren’t any fences. “It’s your fault if there’s an accident — you’re the one who made a mistake.” “The lanes are clearly marked, so it’s on you.” That’s kind of the vibe here. Wow… a rainbow! I’ve finally arrived. Huh? The atmosphere here feels a bit strange. There are lots of posters for host bars on the walls. It seems like this area is a nightlife district. I happened to learn something interesting. Do you see the sign that says “Information”? That’s not a tourist information center. It’s actually a place that recommends entertainment clubs based on your sexual preferences— basically, a different kind of employment agency, so to speak. Anyway, the main problem is that this lodging doesn’t have any parking space for motorcycles. I searched for a motorcycle parking lot nearby, but couldn’t find one. I remember passing by a tower parking garage earlier, so I’ll just park there since it uses a ticket system. I really struggled with parking issues back in Osaka, so I’ve been trying my best to avoid big cities. Next time, I’ll do everything I can to stay away from urban areas entirely. After another parking battle, I finally made it into my room. Tonight’s accommodation is quite spacious. Most 2- or 3-star hotels that cost around 3,000 to 4,000 yen look about the same. The bathrooms too — they all look pretty similar. And with that, my journey through the Noto Peninsula on Honshu has come to an end. The next story will probably be about heading toward Mount Fuji, exploring the trekking route at Kamikōchi along the way, and then continuing on to Fuji. See you at Mount Fuji. Today, I’m going to visit a beautiful trekking spot called “Kamikōchi.” But it seems that entering Kamikōchi is a bit tricky. Because the nature there is so beautiful and well-preserved, the government has banned all private vehicles under a “My Car Restriction” policy to protect the environment. So the only ways to enter are by bicycle, on foot, or by bus or taxi. That means I’ll have to park far away at a designated parking area, take a bus to Kamikōchi, and then return by bus afterward. Which means I’ll have to leave my motorcycle there. It’s a famous tourist spot with many foreign visitors, so even with a bike cover, I’d feel uneasy. But thankfully, the riders’ house I’m heading to, called “Tomoshibi,” is right next to that parking area. And it’s really cheap — only 1,000 yen (about 8 dollars) per night. So I can leave my bike there safely, which is a big relief. Before officially setting out, I should refuel first. Hello. Regular gasoline, full tank, please. Is this amount okay? Yes, that’s fine. 24 liters — that’s amazing.
(laughs) It’s my first time putting 24 liters into a motorcycle. That’s a new record! It’s my first time putting 24 liters into a motorcycle. That’s a new record!
A new record! I refueled about 25 liters — apparently, that’s a personal record for motorcycle fueling. Thank you very much. Drive safely!
Yes! Just as he said “drive safely,” I almost tipped over. (laughs) Whenever I leave the narrow city streets and head toward the open embrace of nature, Japan’s nature always greets me with a bright, clear smile — it’s forever blue. Wow, that bridge looks beautiful! Can I go there? Looks like I can! I can’t just pass by scenery like this — time for a quick detour. Look at the color of the water! When I first arrived in Kyushu, even small natural scenes like this felt breathtaking. But sadly, my sense of wonder has become more refined over time. Now views like this feel rather ordinary. When I encounter truly famous or spectacular places, they can’t even be compared. So now this just feels like a regular stream to me. But I wonder what’s down this road? “Caution — limited access”? Closed during heavy rain. Closed during heavy rain. Hey, I can kind of read Japanese now! Ah, wait — those are kanji, not hiragana… It’s not raining heavily now, so let’s give it a try. Just in case, I’ll honk a little. Mr. Bear, I’m passing through! Since I’m heading deep into the Northern Alps, I can’t help but be a bit more cautious. Ah, I see a lot of moss along the road. That usually means not many people pass through here. At least from my experience, roads with moss like this have very little traffic. It’s a beautiful path, but to avoid even small risks, I’ll turn back. If this were Kyushu, I might’ve gone ahead — but here in Honshu, there are bears. Just in case, I’ll avoid any unnecessary adventures. Even if the chances are small — if it happens to me, that’s 100%. Right now, I’m standing at a major crossroads, trying to make a big decision. After visiting Kamikochi and Mount Fuji, should I head north through Gunma, travel up along the northeastern region of Honshu, and then go to Hokkaido, or go from Gunma through Nagano, ride the Venus Line, and from there — what was it, Nishidaki? Nishiyaki? I can’t recall the name — take a ferry from Niigata straight to Hokkaido? I’m sure the northeastern part of Honshu also has many beautiful places, but since I’ve already seen countless breathtaking views in Kyushu and Shikoku, I might not be as easily impressed anymore, and maybe even my travel companions — my subscribers — might feel the same way. We’ve already experienced so much beauty. But I’ve heard that because of its geography, Hokkaido’s scenery feels like another country altogether. That’s why I’m torn about what to do next. However, there’s a more immediate issue I’m facing right now. Whenever I needed to stay at a rider’s house for the night, I used to ask the staff before checkout, or ask a local friend to help me make a reservation. But this morning, both of those methods failed. So this time, I decided to try making the reservation myself. Thinking about it, I realized maybe I can do it on my own. I’ve learned enough survival Japanese that I’m confident I can book a place with just basic words. Since I can’t make international calls, I’ll look for a “Michi-no-Eki” — roadside stations always have public phones. I’ll use one of those phones to make the call. After two months of traveling, I should be able to handle this by now. The mountains are getting steeper — I must be getting close to Kamikochi, known as Japan’s Alps. I’ve just spotted a “Michi-no-Eki,” so I’ll try booking my stay here. I’ve arrived at the Michi-no-Eki, and now I’m heading in to make a reservation. If you ever visit Japan and stop at a Michi-no-Eki, look for a spot marked “two-wheelers” on the ground. You can park there, and if there isn’t one, just use a regular parking space or a quiet corner. There’s a bicycle parking area here, so I’ll park next to it. I’ve looked around everywhere, but I can’t find a phone. I’ll have to ask. Excuse me, do you know where the public phone is? — There isn’t one here.
— Ah, I see. Not here then. Since I disabled international calls and my local SIM only supports data, I had no choice but to use a local phone somehow. Thankfully, these kind people even went as far as asking at the management office to help me. Excuse me, is this the “Rider’s House”? — I’m sorry, I’m Korean, so my Japanese isn’t very good. — You speak well!
— (laughs) Is it possible to book for today and tomorrow? — Yes, starting tonight. — It’s 2,200 yen per night, right? — Is arriving around 3 p.m. okay? — Great, see you soon then. — Thank you very much. — It costs 16 yen to call, but that’s okay.
— Oh, it’s free? Really? — Thank you so much.
— Are you Korean? — Yes, I am.
— I see. I really like Korea! — Member of the group “Yunho”!
— “UFO”…? This cheerful lady said she’s a fan of Yunho from TVXQ. — Big star? How popular is TVXQ now? — TVXQ was incredibly popular about ten years ago. — TVXQ was incredibly popular about ten years ago.
— I see. I love TVXQ! — Thank you very much.
— Take care! Making a reservation call to the rider’s house here at the Michi-no-Eki was actually really fun. When the person answered, I tried to speak Japanese, but they started speaking in English. Unfortunately, my English isn’t very good, so I couldn’t quite understand them properly. It turned into a funny situation where they spoke in English, and I kept replying in Japanese to confirm what they said. After some back and forth, the reservation was made. The old price I saw before was 1,000 yen (about $8). The price has now increased to 2,000 yen, and with tax included, it’s 2,200 yen. But this particular rider’s house is unique because it has an onsen. Including the optional onsen fee of 150 yen, it costs 2,350 yen per night. Since it’s conveniently located near Kamikochi and even has hot springs, I thought 2,350 yen was reasonable, so I booked two nights. Making the reservation myself wasn’t as hard as I expected. I think I can handle it on my own from now on. There’s still about an hour left to ride. The weather’s perfect, isn’t it? Let’s go together! Wow, it’s so beautiful. I can feel that I’m getting closer to Kamikochi. These waters must be flowing down from the high mountains of Kamikochi. Since there aren’t many places to buy food near my accommodation, I decided to prepare meals for the next five servings in advance. I didn’t buy anything unnecessary—just enough food for five meals. As I mentioned before, I carry an icebox with me. This time, I bought a chicken breast because I wanted to grill it myself. And this is chicken wings — everything together was only 300 yen, so I couldn’t resist buying them. If you grill these and eat them with soy sauce and mayonnaise, it’s the perfect beer snack, right? The rest is my usual simple menu. Vegetable juice, two cans of beer, a bit of fruit, and a cup of instant noodles. After stocking up on food and getting ready to go again, I noticed a unique stream flowing right next to me. The water seems to come from the high mountains up there, but why is this stream built in steps like that? Maybe it’s to prevent the flowing water from eroding the ground? Whatever the reason, it lifted my mood — so I’ll take it as a win. Wow, I can really feel that I’m heading deep into the mountains now. The scent of grass is growing stronger all around me. And with every tunnel and mountain I pass, the air gets noticeably cooler. The temperature here is probably around 13 to 14 degrees Celsius. I’ll probably need to wear something warmer once I reach Kamikochi. I’ve heard that even in April and May, snow still covers the mountains around here. No surprise — the highest peaks of the Northern Alps rise well over 3,000 meters. This will be the entrance I take tomorrow to reach Kamikochi. From here, you can take a bus that goes directly into Kamikochi. Brr… it’s cold. It’s starting to rain! But it’s okay. I’ve arrived. This is “Tomoshibi,” a rider’s house located right next to the Sawando parking area. To the right is the Sawando parking lot where you can catch the bus, and to the left is the Tomoshibi Rider’s House that I reserved. Tomoshibi. Hello. — Is this the rider’s house?
— Yes, that’s right. — Which country are you from?
— I’m from Korea. Korea? — Your Japanese is good!
— No, not really. — Please park your bike along this line.
— Along the line, got it! — Is it okay here?
— Yes, perfect. Now, let’s take a look inside the “Tomoshibi” Rider’s House. Every time I visit a rider’s house, I get excited to see how unique each room’s layout is. – This is the room you’ll be using.
– I see. I’ll show you the inside of the room a little later. – Where is the hot spring?
– I’ll show you. – It’s a 24-hour hot spring.
– Oh, 24-hour..! Oh, that’s wonderful. 24 hours! Since no one was using it at the moment, I was able to look inside. It’s a cozy bathhouse that has everything you need, though not luxurious. Did you bring the motorcycle from Korea? Yes, I brought it from Korea. I came on the “Kanpu Ferry” from Shimonoseki. I arrived in Japan about two months ago. – Are you traveling around Japan?
– Yes, that’s right. Wow, a trip around Japan…! Tomorrow I’ll go to Kamikochi, and then I plan to camp near Mount Fuji. – And then Fuji, Gunma…
– So you’re heading north? Yes, I’ll go all the way to Hokkaido. – I envy you.
– It’s nothing special. Thank you for your support. Will you take a bath right away? After I repair the motorcycle and organize my luggage, (I’ll go to the hot spring.) His daughter Ryoko kindly explained everything again in detail. Hmm… probably, – Tonight, six or seven people will sleep together. – Tonight, six or seven people will sleep together.
– Tonight? – Six or seven people? – It’s very famous, right? – It’s very famous, right?
– (laughs) Actually, it’s probably because it’s cheap. These mattresses you see here, and these futons—you can use whichever you like. – Can I use them for free?
– Yes, of course! Check-in is complete. Like the “Plug Point” Rider House I visited in Kagoshima, it’s a tatami-style room. It’s currently 4 p.m., and I think this is the earliest I’ve checked into a place since coming to Japan. I’ll quickly service the bike and grill the chicken breast I bought earlier. As soon as I arrived and checked in, it started pouring. There was no forecast for rain today at all. But maybe because I got caught in heavy rain yesterday despite no forecast, the weather seems to have made up for it today. (Cheers) (Recharging work energy) I believe chain maintenance is essential during long-distance travel. The chain directly connects the drive system, and if it breaks, you can’t do anything in the middle of the road.
(I had neither a spare chain nor a repair kit.) You wouldn’t even have a chance to fix it alone.
(I had neither a spare chain nor a repair kit.) So whenever I have some free time, I always clean, lubricate, and maintain the chain. Of course, it’s quite a hassle. Who would want to get oil on their hands during a pleasant trip, spraying lubricant, drying it, and wiping it again? But the more care I give, the more the motorcycle rewards me, and safety will never betray me. Nice and tight. Most rider houses don’t have a place to take a shower. Usually, you have to go to a public bath (onsen) outside the lodging, wash up there, and then come back. Among all the rider houses I’ve stayed at, not a single one had a shower. But as you saw earlier, this place actually has a hot spring—and it’s open 24 hours. I really loved that about this place. As you saw earlier, there’s a hot spring in the center, and next to it, a shower area. There’s also soap, shampoo, and body wash available. And of course, the ceiling is open. So, if any of you are planning to go to Kamikochi by any means, I highly recommend this place. When going to Kamikochi, you can take a bus directly from here, and when you come back, you can stay at the lodging right next door, which is very convenient for travelers. Of course, if sharing a room on the second floor feels uncomfortable for you, this place also has private rooms available, and the price was around 4,000 yen (about 30 dollars), so it wasn’t expensive. So, I think this is a really great place for travelers. Anyway, I’ve finished the maintenance, so I’ll go grill some chicken and have a beer. Let’s have a beer. Come with me! Let’s go together! So tonight’s dinner is ramen and a banana. Chicken wings. Let’s go! Originally, I was planning to cook in the shared space on the first floor, but it turned out that eight people had dinner reservations. They did say I could still eat downstairs, but I couldn’t bring myself to do that—it felt awkward. So, I came up to the kitchen on the second floor to cook alone. And Ms. Ryoko, the owner, kindly brought me a burner, plates, and soy sauce. Oh, and even cooking oil. This is the cooking oil. When I first saw it, I thought it was dish detergent. But it’s actually oil. Chicken wings—don’t they look delicious? Removing the blood in advance? I have no idea about that. I’m not sensitive to that kind of smell. Ah, hot! (Avoiding assassination) BAKKAT (34) | The Banished Ninja Next is the sauce. It’s a soy sauce and mayonnaise mix. Soy sauce, mayonnaise, and chicken—an unbeatable combination. This is art. I made the sauce. Mix to the left, mix to the right—Japanese chicken wings!
(Korean CF parody) This isn’t cooking, it’s art. I’ll start with the most delicious-looking one. (A TikTok challenge that was trending at the time) And so, another day filled with sweetness drifts quietly away into the calm darkness. Where can I buy a bus ticket? – I’ll take you there. You’re going to the bus stop, right?
– Yes, that’s right. – You’re heading to Kamikochi, right?
– Yes, that’s right. – Please follow me. I was looking for a bus that goes to the Kamikochi bus stop from here, but kindly, they offered to drive me all the way there. You can buy the bus ticket right here. Thank you very much. It’s pretty quiet right now—probably because it’s a weekday. I heard that usually it’s packed with people. – Round trip?
– Yes, that’s right. – That will be 2,800 yen. – Is this the right place?
– Yes, that’s correct. Thank you. Thank you. The round-trip ticket for adults cost 2,800 yen, about 17 dollars. At first, I thought it was expensive, but since this is a tourist area, and considering how costly transportation in Japan is, it made sense. After about a 30-minute bus ride, you reach the entrance of Kamikochi, arriving at “Taisho Pond.” Here in Kamikochi, you must not touch any living creatures, and you’re also told not to feed wild animals if you encounter them. The rest are obvious rules. Eager to enjoy this nature, I quickly went down to Taisho Pond. Wow… my first impression of Kamikochi was like a dream. It felt as if I had entered a hidden world between green and blue. The water is so clear that you can see the bottom. It’s so beautiful. Since this water flows from melted ice, it’s incredibly cold. It seems they record the dates and times when bears are sighted. Three days ago, around 11 a.m., one was seen near here. And— if you encounter a bear, don’t take pictures—just back away. Because this place is so well-preserved, encounters with bears seem to happen from time to time. Sometimes, like now, I find myself alone for a moment, so I have to stay alert and look around carefully. Huh? That smell—animal droppings? It definitely doesn’t look like it came from a human. I’ll get out of here quickly. As I matched my steps with the pure laughter of children, I soon arrived at a unique wetland. It seems this area is home to monkeys. Interestingly, I understand the “no feeding and keep distance” rule, but— it also says “don’t make eye contact.” Does that mean no staring contests? I envy a nature where you can even have a staring contest with wild animals. The scenery spreading to my left right now is something hard to find in Korea. These grasslands, spread out like a carpet, are wetlands. Moist, marshy wetlands. And the trees standing here and there give off an exotic feeling. Right beside this wetland flows a small pond called “Tashiro-ike.” Unlike other ponds, this one was quite shallow. It serves as a path for water flowing down from the mountaintop, and looked like a little sanctuary of gentle beauty. – Oh, sorry!
– Not at all! – Hello!
– Hello 🙂 Aren’t the kids so adorable? They’re polite and so cheerful. Just exchanging greetings with them lifts my mood. As I walked hand in hand, surrounded by calm greenery, sadly, it was time to bring this walk to an end. Wow, look at the color of this beautiful water. The color of the water looks unreal. So cute. The children are so adorable. Seeing the kids walking through nature like this warms my heart. For today’s finale, I arrived at “Kappa Bridge.” As the most famous bridge here, it’s crowded even on weekdays. The origin of this bridge’s name is rather unique. It’s called “Kappa Bridge” because— in 1927, the famous Japanese novelist Ryunosuke Akutagawa wrote his novel *Kappa*, set in Kamikochi, and this area was its backdrop. That’s how this bridge came to be named “Kappa Bridge.” But really, standing before this breathtaking view, who cares about the name? I simply take in the shining greens and blues, and the glittering ripples of light. – Thank you very much.
– Thank you. Fortunately, I returned to the lodge safely without encountering any bears. The motorcycle is safe as well. I’ll start the maintenance right away. It’s such a bothersome task, but if I don’t do it today, I’ll have to ride tomorrow, and when these things pile up, the schedule keeps getting delayed. My body is exhausted, but a solo traveler has to take care of everything alone. Still, thanks to this, the chain is now clean. I can ride with peace of mind for a while. [ Rolling into the World ] Altitude: 3,776 meters That dark peak, which even looks down on the high-floating clouds, is Mount Fuji — the highest mountain in Japan and a sacred peak revered by the Japanese people. It’s twice as tall as Hallasan on Jeju Island, Korea’s highest and most beautiful mountain, and I plan to climb it myself on my motorcycle. This journey begins in Nagano Prefecture, Honshu, from Kamikochi, where I experienced Japan’s most breathtaking scenery. The Roof of Japan — Mount Fuji If I go straight from here to Mount Fuji, it would take about three and a half hours, but I plan to stop by the Venus Line, Goddess Observatory, and the fairytale-like “Märchen Road,” so it will take about six hours in total. Even from the moment of departure, the scenery is extraordinary. This appears to be a hydroelectric power plant. It’s a dam, and the difference in height between both sides is enormous. It feels as if I’m riding along a road in the sky. When traveling through Japan, you sometimes come across truly fascinating roads. There are roads that make you wonder, “Why is there even a road here?” and others that make you think, “How did they even build a road in such a place?” You can feel the strong determination of the Japanese people to connect everything, no matter what. Right now, I’m passing through a region called Matsumoto. It’s surrounded by mountains and looks like a basin made up of rice fields and farmland. Each time I pass through these areas, I’m struck by how there are no tall buildings at all. Aside from the transmission towers, there’s not a single building over three stories high. Because of that, the view feels wide open, and it gives me a refreshing sense of freedom. After passing vast rice fields and farmlands, I begin heading deep into the mountains. [ Keeping a safe distance from the truck ] To cross the Venus Line, which reaches an altitude of 2,000 meters, I’m climbing through this mountain range. As I go higher, I can feel the temperature steadily dropping. It’s because my jacket is made of mesh fabric — very breathable. Before climbing, it was extremely hot, but as soon as I started ascending, it became cool, and now it’s even cold. As everyone knows, the temperature drops by 0.6°C for every 100 meters of elevation gained, so on the Venus Line, with an average altitude of 1,700 meters (about 5,580 ft), it’s about 10°C (50°F) cooler than the plains. Now, I’ve finally entered the long-awaited Venus Line. Looking at the Google reviews of the Venus Line, there are quite a few photos of wild animals like deer taken on this road. And seeing the scenery now, I can totally understand why. Deep in the mountains, surrounded by lush greenery on both sides, it wouldn’t be surprising at all if a wild animal suddenly appeared. So I’m slowing down more than usual, taking my time to enjoy the climb. In these remote mountains, far from any signs of people, riding alongside the summer sky and the nameless greenery that sings of new beginnings — is there anything more pleasant than this? Oh… I’ll make an emergency stop for a moment. Let me check if there are any wild animals like bears nearby. Because even though I haven’t even started yet, it’s already freezing. Just in case, I’ll take a look around the area. I’ll leave the engine running for now. Since I’m heading toward an altitude of 2,000 meters, the sunlight is really strong, so it’s hot when I stop, but it gets cold once I start riding. Mount Fuji, which I’ll visit soon, is even higher, so it must be much colder there. There’s something I learned in the military. “A soldier defeated in battle may be forgiven, but a soldier who fails to keep watch cannot.” I’m keeping a sharp lookout to avoid encountering any bears. But look inside the forest. In a place like this, it wouldn’t be strange at all if a bear suddenly appeared. I’d better not stop unless it’s a crowded parking area. Wow, the scenery is already beautiful. Since the Venus Line looks like a vast grassland, I think I’ll be heading that way. The map points in that direction too. But I made a big mistake here. To ride along the vast Venus Line like in this photo, I should’ve taken the road below, but for some reason, the GPS led me to the upper route, and I ended up on the wrong road. I thought the real Venus Line was just about to begin, but it turns out I had already passed the main section. By the time I realized it, I was already quite far away, and going back would’ve taken about two more hours, so I decided to give up without hesitation. Well, it’s not so bad to leave myself a reason to come back someday. The sound of nature in this place where I stopped briefly made me forget any regrets. The sounds here are like the chirping of insects you hear on a summer night in the Korean countryside. Since there’s still a long way to go, I gather my focus and head toward the Goddess Observatory. The Goddess Observatory wasn’t far, so I arrived quite quickly. From there, you can see Mount Tengu on the left, and even down to the city of Chino. Feeling a bit rushed, I quickly took in the view and turned the throttle toward Märchen Road. The word “Märchen” is German, meaning “fairy tale.” Just as the name suggests, riding along the endlessly winding tree-lined road deep in the mountains truly made me feel as if I had entered a storybook world. So today, I decided to stay at a hostel in a small town north of Mount Fuji. It’ll take about two and a half hours to get there. Still, I’ll enjoy the remaining stretch of the Venus Line slowly, descending with anticipation for tomorrow’s Mount Fuji. Now that my Japan trip has passed two months, I’ve noticed another unique aspect of Japanese roads — the Japanese are really good at naming things. It may just be an ordinary road, but giving it a name makes you feel like you’re riding along a meaningful path. “Yatsugatake Echo Line” This one also has “Line” in its name. Simply put, this is a scenic loop road that runs along the side of Mount Yatsugatake. The entire long stretch was filled with vast fields and the scent of fragrant flowers. When I travel, I like to learn about the origin or meaning of place names. That way, I get a sense of what kind of place it is — its history, its geography — and it makes driving much more enjoyable. It feels like a richer journey. Endless rice fields and farmlands stretch out before me. Wow, that smell of grass! The air is filled with the scent of herbs. It’s probably the strongest grassy aroma I’ve smelled since coming to Japan. Ah, the reason it’s so strong is because they’ve planted lots of herbs along the roadside. Thanks to the sweet herbal scent, I feel great as I ride. It feels like riding through a giant flower shop. Along with the gentle fragrance, the sight of children racing by made this moment even more special. Go for it! Go for it! So cute. High five! Every time I drive long distances for long hours, I feel the same thing. It’s like a battle against myself, enduring boredom and fatigue. Wow… the traffic is terrible. Do you see this red indicator? I was supposed to arrive at 6:30 p.m., but now it’s delayed by 30 minutes. No matter how much I drive, the time doesn’t decrease. So exhausting… so tiring. It’s my first time stretching on the road. Even though it’s just one city, I can’t see the end of it. I struggled within the same city for about an hour. Just when I thought I’d finally reached the outskirts, another city appeared. Wow, Japan really is a big country. But my travels have always been about “giving and receiving.” After going through hard times, I always end up receiving a beautiful gift in return. It’s Mount Fuji! I’m descending from the mountainside myself, but I’ve never seen such a tall mountain before. It’s unbelievably huge. It’s really massive. I used to think, “How big can a mountain really be?” But seeing it in person—it’s enormous. Now I understand why ancient Japanese people considered Mount Fuji sacred. It’s almost unreal how big it is. Now, I’ve arrived at my accommodation. You’ve worked hard today. Good job. This is the place. I wonder if it’s okay to park here? The hostel’s check-in time was until 6 p.m. It’s already 7 p.m. now. Usually, accommodations allow check-in until around 8 p.m., so I came without worry. It was my mistake for not checking properly. So I sent a message to the host, but if it’s not possible, I’ll have to find another place. Once again, I’m in a difficult situation. Turns out, I was wrong—the host had already sent me a message about late check-in instructions. Time to check in! It’s a mistake that often happens to me, always rushing ahead with excitement. As expected, there was a notice waiting for me right at the entrance. My room is number 202. (Analog number lock) I decided to take this twin bed for myself. The room’s condition is excellent. Let’s quickly move my luggage. I really miss Korea today. I miss Korean people.
(Homesickness) Sometimes I even find Korean soju “Chamisul” at convenience stores. It was about twice the price compared to Korea, but if I see it, I’ll buy and drink it anyway. (A little trick) That’s it. That’s the taste. And so, I end today’s journey, sipping with excitement for Mount Fuji—the finale of my Honshu trip. And so, morning has arrived here in Fujiyoshida, Yamanashi Prefecture. Today, I’m going to climb Mount Fuji on Honshu, something I’ve been looking forward to. But unfortunately, I found out that I won’t be able to hike all the way to the summit. You can go up to the 5th Station, but beyond that, the snow hasn’t melted yet and the temperature is too low. They say climbing is only permitted in July or August, after the snow has melted. So for now, access is only allowed up to the 5th Station, called “Gogome,” and you can actually ride a motorcycle up to that point. But even though it’s only the 5th Station, the altitude is about 2,300 meters. After descending Mount Fuji, I plan to camp at a place called “Koan Campground,” where I can see Mount Fuji. That campsite is actually the same location depicted on Japan’s 1,000-yen bill. They say you can see that exact view there. I’m really looking forward to it. Unfortunately, thick clouds are covering the sky right now, so I’m not sure if I’ll get a clear view of Fuji. Still, I’m thankful that I can at least go up to the 5th Station. Since the weather near Mount Fuji changes so frequently, sometimes even reaching the 5th Station isn’t possible. But today’s weather isn’t bad, so I think I’ll be able to reach it without any issues. I’ll climb with gratitude in my heart. Alright then, let’s go together! Oh, and the higher you go up Mount Fuji, the more expensive food and drinks become at the shops. So I’m going to buy what I need here in advance. A single bottle of water costs about 500 yen, and near the summit, it can be as high as 800 yen.
(This is “premium water.”) As always, I’ve prepared my usual items.
(Chicken breast, sandwich, and vegetable juice) It feels cool with the slight breeze, but in reality, it’s quite hot. The 5th Station I’m heading to is about 2,300 meters above sea level, right? It’ll definitely get cold on the way up. From my experience, even mountains around 1,500 meters high— like Shikoku’s “UFO Line” or yesterday’s “Venus Line”—were all cold. So, shall we start the real climb now? As expected, since we’re at the base of Mount Fuji, I can see a large shrine here. Wow, it’s huge. Luckily, as time passes, the sky is getting clearer. Before departure, it was so cloudy that I thought I wouldn’t be able to see anything, but maybe I’ll get to see Mount Fuji under a clear sky. Even the road leading toward Mount Fuji feels sacred and beautifully maintained, as if it’s a path toward something divine. The road I’m currently taking is called the “Subaru Line.” The word “Subaru” refers to the constellation known as the “Seven Sisters” (Pleiades). It’s the same word used by the famous Japanese car brand “SUBARU.” I’m not sure why this road is named the “Subaru Line,” but perhaps it symbolizes a road leading up the mountain toward the stars. Or maybe the Subaru company helped construct it, or contributed significantly to the road’s development—just my fun imagination. Hmm… I heard this road usually gets crowded with tourists. But it’s surprisingly empty right now. Still, as I always say, it’ll probably be packed once I get there. Just like in Kamikochi. While enjoying these fun thoughts, I soon arrived at Mount Fuji’s toll gate. Looks like it’s cash payment only. Hello. (1,680 yen or 13 USD) Thank you. Wow… that’s expensive. Every time I pass through a toll like this, I’m reminded of how costly transportation in Japan is. As you just saw, it’s 1,680 yen—about 15,000 won, or 13 dollars. It feels like quite a hefty entrance fee. It’s really expensive. I was expecting it to be around 700 yen. Still, being able to ride freely along this open, green road— under the blue sky and white clouds—all by myself feels like a blessing. Two days ago, there was a rain forecast. But it doesn’t look like it’ll rain now. I’m so grateful to the sky. I think I’m passing the first ridge now. The elevation here is about 1,300 meters. It’s already starting to get cooler. I’m glad I put on extra clothes before coming up. Mount Fuji is said to be composed of four layers. About ten million years ago, this place was actually under the sea. But over a long period, the earth’s crust collided and volcanic eruptions piled up layers, eventually forming the 3,776-meter Mount Fuji we know today. Unfortunately, Mount Fuji is still an active volcano. Many experts say it wouldn’t be surprising if it erupted at any moment. They claim that the power accumulated over the past 300 years is now condensed beneath Mount Fuji. If it were to erupt, it could paralyze Tokyo within just three hours. It must be hiding an enormous explosive force. I sincerely hope that won’t happen— at least not before I finish descending the mountain. While talking, I’ve already passed the second ridge. The elevation is now 1,600 meters. That’s about a 300-meter climb from the first ridge. Passing the second and third ridges, I twist the throttle, heading steadily toward the summit. Along the way, I encountered small gifts that Mount Fuji seemed to have prepared. Now I can really feel the altitude—it’s close to 2,000 meters, I think. Can you see the clouds far away over there? They’re drifting right above my head. The air is becoming humid, and the scent of grass is getting much stronger. At this rate, I might not be able to enjoy the view once I reach the fifth station. But even if I can’t see it, that’s okay. What matters is that I climbed Mount Fuji. And I’m doing it surrounded by all this lush greenery. As I climb higher, the clouds grow thicker. But maybe it’s clear up at the fifth station, so I won’t be disappointed just yet. I’ve passed the fourth ridge. Now only the fifth station remains. Just as I said earlier—the mountain was covered with clouds halfway up, but once I passed through them, the upper part was bright and clear. I’m excited. Even though I’m almost at the fifth station, I still haven’t seen the summit of Mount Fuji once, so for a moment I wondered—did I take the wrong path again? I’m sorry, everyone. I’m speechless. Looking at Mount Fuji just now, I realized something. Above the fifth station, there’s no grass growing at all. Usually, the tree line is around 3,500 meters above sea level, but on Mount Fuji, because of the steep slope and harsh climate, the tree line is located here, at about 2,300 meters—the fifth station. Sometimes, what we think is a mistake can lead to something even more beautiful. As expected, the road up was empty, but the fifth station is packed with people. And so, I’ve arrived at Mount Fuji. Wow, what an incredible view. To see a snow-capped peak in mid-June, in summer—that’s amazing. It doesn’t look far from here to the summit, but the height difference is actually about 1,500 meters. With that much difference, it makes sense that the snow is still there. I finally close my open mouth and slowly take in the surroundings. As expected, it’s a famous tourist spot. About 80% of the visitors seem to be Chinese, and the rest are mostly Japanese or Westerners. In one corner of the square, I see some donkeys. Apparently, there’s a program where you can ride them. I often see in foreign documentaries that people living in highlands travel by horse or donkey as their means of transportation. Of course, here it’s probably more of a tourist experience. Still, it’s quite an interesting sight. This seems to be a sign marking the start of the 5th Station. It looks like this side path is the trail leading up to the summit of Mt. Fuji. Currently, it’s closed for maintenance. They say it will reopen once the temperature rises and the snow melts, between July and August. It may feel mild here, but 1,400 meters higher at the summit, it will be freezing cold. I was planning to climb to the summit even in these riding boots, but unfortunately, that won’t be possible this time. If I get another chance, I’ll definitely reach the top. So, if you’re planning to visit Mt. Fuji, I recommend coming in July or August. And of course, visiting a souvenir shop in such a place is always fun, right? Cute souvenirs featuring Japanese traditions or Mt. Fuji are displayed everywhere. I even see premium bottled water shaped like Mt. Fuji. And near every beautiful nature spot in Japan, there’s always a “shrine” close by, like an inseparable friend. Although it’s small, there’s a place prepared for offering prayers. There’s even a small space where people can actually worship and pray, but looking around, it feels more like a souvenir shop. Not only here, but there’s also another shop in the back. Even though this is a tourist site, it’s still sad to see people acting disrespectfully at a place that enshrines gods. Now that I’ve come all this way, I can’t miss the observatory either. Looking at the map, that area over there is Fujiyoshida City, where I stayed, and that direction points toward Tokyo. If I were at the summit on a clear day, I could probably see Tokyo from there. This is probably the highest place I’ve ever been to in my life, except when flying on a plane. Looking down at the uniquely shaped clouds and seeing birds flying below my feet— it was an indescribable, thrilling moment of happiness. Now, it’s time to wrap up this short but intense journey to Mt. Fuji. I had long waited to see the clear summit of Mt. Fuji. It felt as if it showed itself briefly—just a glimpse—before closing its curtain for the day. I was lucky. Truly grateful for that. As expected of a tourist spot—corn costs 500 yen (about $3), and ice cream costs 700 yen (about $5). Glad I bought things earlier. All this cost me only 600 yen (about $4). I saved some money! Of course, simple drinks are available from vending machines for around 300 yen. Anyway, now I’ll descend and head to the “Koan Camping Ground.” But first, I’ll stop by a supermarket to buy some groceries. Looking at the weather, it seems cloudy, so I might not see Mt. Fuji well from the campsite, but I’ll just find meaning in going there itself. So, passing through Mt. Fuji’s deepening natural scenery after the climb, I arrived at a supermarket near the camping ground. I’ve arrived at a sporting goods store. I’m only here to buy some isobutane gas. I bought two cans on purpose. It was always troublesome to look for a sporting goods store every time I needed gas. It surprises me every time, but this is the cheapest one they sell. Do you know how much one can costs? It’s about 600 yen, including tax.
(In Korea, around 300 yen.) Gas is expensive in Japan.
(In Korea, around 300 yen.) It’s the cheapest option, but since it’s sold in a Japanese store, I can trust it. Plus, it’s imported from Korea. Apparently, many isobutane gas products are imported from Korea. They import them and just change the exterior design before selling them here. And sometimes you find “shopping clusters” like this, where several kinds of stores are grouped together. Places like this are really convenient. I can buy almost everything I need for my trip in one place without moving around. So now, I’m heading next door to “Aeon Mall MaxValu” to buy groceries. Look at the parking lot — you can see motorcycles for moto-camping and touring, right? Looks like they’re also doing some shopping here. – Where are you from?
– Oh, it’s a motorcycle from Korea. – From Korea?
– Yes. – The license plate looks different.
– Yes, it’s a Korean plate. – Is your license an international one?
– License? (Didn’t understand) – Ah, an international driving permit. – What brings you to Japan?
– I’m traveling around Japan. (Laughs) – I’ll cheer for you.
– Thank you. – Stay safe out there.
– Thank you very much. Every time I meet motorcycle travelers in Japan, I always feel that “all bikers are family.” They’re all so kind. And above all, I’m always amazed at how skillfully they pack their luggage. As always, the things I buy are the same. Chicken breast, vegetable juice, and ramen. This time is a bit special because I’m camping, so I’ve got some meat too. Now, all the preparations are complete. Let’s head together to “Koan Campground,” where I can rest while gazing at Mount Fuji. The “Koan Campground” I’m heading to has a unique reservation system. I’m not sure if walk-ins are accepted, but online reservations are required. You also have to select a specific check-in time, and if you miss it, check-in isn’t possible. Check-in times are divided into 30-minute slots. I reserved the 4 p.m. slot, and I think I’ll make it just fine. The sun is slowly coming out, so I expect it’ll clear up soon. Whether or not Mount Fuji is visible, I’ll share this beautiful scenery — worthy of Japan’s ¥1,000 bill — with you. So, let’s go to “Koan Campground” together! Wow… look at the sky. It’s so beautiful. Let me tell you one of the charms of Japan’s roads. Even when it’s bright, there are moments when it suddenly gets dark because of the trees over the road. At such times, even though it’s the same road at the same moment, it feels completely different. Of course, it can be a little dangerous near sunset, but seeing this kind of phenomenon in broad daylight is quite fascinating. Now, I’ve arrived. From afar, I saw that there were a lot of people camping here. I wonder if there’s even a spot left for me. I can’t see any open space for tents. Sorry, I don’t speak Japanese. At Koan Campground, check-in isn’t done at the bottom — it’s done at the top before heading down. Welcome. Please have a seat here. – You don’t speak Japanese?
– No, I don’t. As always, I completed the check-in using a translation app. I love Papago.
(Translation app) There must be at least one spot left, right? Wow, this slope is steeper than I thought. If I pitch my tent down there, it’ll be hard to sleep comfortably. Do you see that? From way over there to the other end, it’s packed with tents. I’ll pitch my tent right here. It’s better to sleep comfortably here than to struggle on a slanted spot below. Still, this little tent is holding up well.
(My tent broke not long ago.) It’s a broken tent, but I managed to set it up properly. This is the exact place depicted on Japan’s ¥1,000 bill. But it’s hidden behind clouds right now. I can only see the surrounding mountains — Mount Fuji isn’t visible. Let me show you again. This is the scene. Mount Fuji is behind those clouds. Sadly, only Mount Fuji is covered by clouds. Still, it’s truly a serene and beautiful place — worthy of being printed on money. Everyone, I’m camping at the site shown on the back of Japan’s ¥1,000 bill. You probably imagined this would be a romantic camping spot, right? Well, this is the reality. All the good spots have already been taken by early campers. Some people even endure steep slopes just to sleep near the water. This is the iPhone’s level gauge — that’s how steep it is here. Well, I can’t see Mount Fuji anyway. So I’ll just enjoy camping by the lake, grilling some meat, and having a good time. The shower here costs 100 yen (about 1 dollar) for 2 minutes. As a former sergeant in the Korean Army, a 2-minute shower is nothing to me. Of course, it depends a bit on the water pressure. All I need is a bar of soap. Piece of cake. Ah, cold! No problem. I’m fine. Done! I still have 30 seconds left. It seems pressing the STOP button gives you time to apply soap. Press START again and the water resumes. For most men, 2 minutes should be enough, and probably enough for women too, unless they have long hair. Now all preparations are complete. I spread a cloth and use it as my dining table. Small, but perfectly fine. Pork jowl. (Black pepper ×5) Can’t miss this moment. Half a bottle of soju left from yesterday. Just a single drop added. Let me share the taste of soju with Mount Fuji and Koan Campground. “Gosurae”: a Korean folk ritual of pouring food or drink onto the ground
to pray for prosperity. (A fading tradition today) Yes, this is the taste of Korea. Looking around me—couples, friends, families, and married partners. Moments like this sometimes bring a wave of loneliness that burns the heart, but I still grill my meat carefully so it won’t burn. Even if my heart burns, the meat must not. Now, let me tell you about my next route. I’ve decided to boldly skip the Tohoku region of Honshu. I have about a month left, and visiting Tohoku would probably take too long, and from what I’ve heard, it might not be as impressive as the views I’ve already seen. The nature I experienced in Kyushu, Shikoku, and southern Honshu was just too powerful. Of course, Tohoku has its beauty too, but I’ll save it for next time. Both you and I have developed a sharper eye for scenery through this journey, so I’ll head straight from Niigata to Hokkaido for new landscapes. – Good night.
– Good night. So I’ll change my tires in Gunma, then head toward Niigata. That process alone will take about two days. It’s about a 4-hour ride to Gunma, and 6 to 7 hours from Gunma to Niigata. Plus, taking the ferry from Niigata to Hokkaido will take another full day. So it’s not two days—three, actually. Even though it’s a long journey, I’ve decided to head straight to Hokkaido. But it won’t just be a dull drive. Gunma, as you know, is the setting of “Initial D,” right? So I’ll show you some of the routes that inspired the manga scenes and make the journey to Hokkaido meaningful too. Though the 3-day trip to Hokkaido will be tough, I’ll take on the hard part—so just relax and enjoy the ride from the back seat. I’ll pack everything up and get some sleep for tomorrow. Thank you again for traveling with me today. Morning at Koan Campground, facing Mount Fuji, is already bustling with life. Some people head to the water, seeking the quiet scattered over the night, others build warm memories with family, and travelers breathe laughter into a new day. Perhaps feeling sorry for hiding its face yesterday, Mount Fuji reveals its forehead through the clouds, cheering on the last chapter of my Honshu journey. And I, too, begin to move busily, toward the next chapter—the road to Hokkaido. The sunlight is blazing hot right now. Even with my clothes covering me, it’s scorching. I’d better finish my meal quickly, clean up, and get going. I cleaned up as fast as I could. This sunlight feels like Korea’s autumn noon heat—even though it’s only 9 a.m. The sun is too strong, so I’ll move quickly instead of lingering. It’s really hot. Now, leaving behind Mount Fuji in June, who loves to play hide and seek, I turned my handlebar north toward “Hokkaido.” As I mentioned yesterday, after replacing the rear tire in Gunma, I’ll head to Niigata, take a ferry, and cross over to Hokkaido. You can see the travel time on the GPS—“4 hours and 50 minutes.” That’s the estimated time to the motorcycle repair shop. If I stop by Gunma, the hometown of the racing manga “Initial D,” and then go to my lodging, it’ll take over 7 hours. So today, I’ll be spending quite a long time just riding. But don’t worry — I’ll handle the tough parts and only show you the beautiful views. So, let’s head to Gunma together! The weather today is unbelievably clear. Right! On a day like this, music is a must. I categorize my playlists by weather, mood, or theme. Today, I’ll play the list called “Ride with Your Hips.” A joyful trip with Sena! “SENA 60S.” Wow! The road is so beautiful! (A flood of greetings from Japanese group riders!) (A photographer lady I met by chance) When I see laundry hanging out on balconies like that, doesn’t it look so cute and heartwarming? And when passing through these small towns, not only balconies— there are houses built very close to the road, right? Those houses hang futons or clothes right on their outer walls. I find that sight really adorable. Like this! They dry their laundry right by the roadside like this! Even in Korean countryside, such scenes are rare — and I find them so charming. I’m heading north from Mount Fuji now, right? But the direction *toward* Mount Fuji is heavily congested. Traffic is backed up for several kilometers like this. Seeing this makes me feel it was a good choice not to visit tourist spots on weekends. From my experience, Japan feels very similar to Korea. Major sightseeing spots get extremely crowded on holidays, but once you step outside the tourist zones, the roads feel completely yours. Even when the roads are empty, you’re surrounded by lush greens and brilliant blues. The scenery is so beautiful — it’s mesmerizing. Mesmerizing! Enchanting! I’m drunk on it! This is National Route 139. The smooth roads and stunning views make it a popular spot for riders to enjoy cornering. You can find motorcycles everywhere here. After a long ride, I’m now climbing Mount Bukō in Saitama Prefecture to reach one of the famous “Initial D” routes — the “Sadamine” pass. Even from the entrance, the beauty of the greenery lined up here feels extraordinary. Wow… it’s beautiful. Rows of stones, and the sunlight gently filtering through them— it all feels like something out of a fairy tale. Wow… maybe we should slow down a little? Driving fast on such a narrow road is really dangerous. Ah, seeing this road is making me a bit nervous. There are many traces of people walking here, though. I’d like to see a car or a motorcycle… Anyway, let’s just go slowly. (Signaling my presence to wild animals) Because in the deep, remote mountains of Honshu, you could encounter a bear at any time. If there are traces of people like this, it’s fine. Ha, I got scared for nothing! Well, I didn’t know… Just tear it off! Come on, rip it off! It’s useless anyway — why keep it? Just tear it off.
(A symbol of manhood) You coward. The scenery along this road is truly beautiful. I’ve come quite high up now. The persistence of the Japanese people is really impressive. How did they even think of climbing to the top of this mountain and carving a long road along the slope? Maybe it was necessary back in the old days. But in modern times, is there really a need to build a road all the way up to the top? I start to wonder. The Japanese people’s love for “roads” seems truly remarkable. Look, there’s nothing tall around here. I’m sure this road must have its own name too. As expected, this one is also called “Okumusashi Green Line.” Alright, I think I’ve arrived. Fast, fast—too fast! Please go slowly. This is the “Sadamine” course featured in the manga *Initial D*. This is where I am right now, and if I follow this road down, it leads to the section full of sharp corners. Let’s experience this road. Alright, I’ll drive carefully to the end. It says it takes about an hour and fifteen minutes to reach the destination. Wow, do you see how twisty the road is? It looks just like my intestines twisted up earlier when I got scared walking into that dark road worrying about bears! Rip it off! Just tear it off! Let’s go together — safely! Hey! Turn off the music. Are you trying to kill someone on this mountain road? Turn it off! I guess the hot-blooded youth who watched *Initial D* came here to try drifting for real. You can sometimes see skid marks on the pavement. Just imagining two cars racing on such a narrow road makes me shiver. Before reaching the main cornering section, you have to go through a really narrow path. These riders must be here on a kind of “pilgrimage.” From here, the real “Sadamine” course begins. Look at these roads! Turn off the music. I’ve got a bad feeling… Wow… everyone, remember, anime is just anime. How could anyone drift on such a sharp corner? The road is extremely narrow. If you stretch your arms wide, you could touch both edges of the lane. And yet, people actually race here… You can’t even see what’s right behind the corner here, and still they try to drift? See? You can’t see anything ahead. Everyone, anime is just anime. Let’s just be content watching it as a manga or an animation… (Things you can only avoid when you’re going slowly) Let’s ride slowly and enjoy the scenery instead. Please, don’t play that music… Stop it. It makes me want to speed. That music is too dangerous… I wonder how many accidents happened here for them to build these safety structures. So many people must have come after watching *Initial D*. You can still see lots of tire marks on the road, and they even installed artificial barriers to prevent people from drifting or overspeeding. This one’s actually one of the better ones. Earlier, near the entrance, I even saw asphalt pillars built as obstacles. If you drive fast or try to drift, those structures would easily wreck your car. And just like that, the *Initial D* Sadamine course has ended. After driving through it, I didn’t really feel anything particularly special. It just seems like a lot of people visit because it appeared in a famous manga. Since I’m touring all around Japan and experiencing all kinds of terrain, this is just one of the many mountain roads you can find anywhere in Japan. Other than being in the manga, there’s nothing particularly unique about it. So, I don’t think there’s any need to come all the way here just to try cornering or drifting. If you want to feel a road like this, just pick any mountain in Japan and ride up. You’ll find plenty of roads like this. They’re everywhere. (So fast…) It’s a narrow corner—please drive slowly. In cities, most Japanese drivers are so disciplined and considerate, it’s wonderful. But since this is an *Initial D* landmark, everyone’s acting like they’re filming a movie! Please don’t forget — speeding also endangers others! That car looks like it’s heading to drift too. What an incredible tuning job! Please be careful out there. Why is it suddenly guiding me through this kind of road? What’s going on…? Of course, it’s really nice though! But sometimes, you feel a little unfamiliar to me. Maybe Google Maps is really using machine learning. Sometimes it takes me down weird roads, but they always match my taste perfectly. Wow… Look at this peaceful scenery. The scenery is beautiful, but the shape of the houses is really fascinating. They’re built half over the water. It feels like I’ve come to another country. Ah…! This must be a popular fishing spot. After coming down the Initial D “Sadamine” course, I’ve arrived in Gunma Prefecture. I’m almost at the repair shop I mentioned earlier. The name of that shop is “Nirin-kan.” In Korean, that means “Two-Wheel Hall.” The pronunciation is quite similar, right? It seems like they sell motorcycle parts and also do maintenance there. And Gunma is right next to the Tokyo area, right? So somehow… it feels more reliable and safe. That’s why I chose the Fujioka branch of Nirin-kan. I’ve arrived. This is Nirin-kan. Hmm? I don’t see any motorcycles… Ah, there they are. Of course—there’s no way a motorcycle shop wouldn’t have bikes! “2りんかん” They also sell used bikes, and the variety and number are incredible. Motorcycles not sold in Korea — like the “CB190X.” And the “GB350S.” You can’t find that in Korea.
(It wasn’t available back then.) Really unique. What I need is a new tire. My tire pattern is quite distinct, so it’s easy to spot. But… Turns out, they don’t have the tire I was looking for. I even tried to replace it with a similar one of the same size, but they didn’t have that either. The moment I heard “We don’t have that tire,” all my energy drained out. There’s a roadside rest stop right next to here, but I don’t even have the strength to pitch my tent.
(Michinoeki = national highway rest area) I’ll just sit for a while and recover my mind. I’m exhausted. Completely exhausted. Right now, I feel so small and pathetic. When problems arise, I should solve them — but I don’t even have the will to try. Usually, these kinds of negative thoughts come when I’m tired or hungry. So, to regain my positivity, I’ll grab something to eat. Like I mentioned earlier, the building right next door… (When it rains, it pours) Like I said, there’s a Michinoeki rest stop right next to here, and it has a nice soba restaurant. I’ll fill my stomach with soba. I came to eat soba, but their business hours are from 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. So I guess I’ll try the ramen shop right next to it instead. Hello. As always, I stammered through my order. It’s “Ōmori Ramen,” with extra noodles. Before I even realized it, I was shoveling ramen into my mouth so fast I didn’t know if it was going into my nose or mouth. Humans are such fickle creatures, aren’t they? Once I was full, that miserable feeling disappeared. But still, a sense of uncertainty remained. I’ll try to figure something out. Now that I’ve got some energy back, I’ll try to tackle it properly. The sun has set, and the stores are closed. The only thing I can solve right now is where to sleep. I’ll leave tomorrow’s problems for tomorrow and let my tired body rest. Right now, I’m near a highway toll gate. Since I lay down to sleep, I’ve been hearing motorcycle sounds for more than two hours. A four-cylinder bike keeps roaring loudly. Just like this right now. Someone’s even making music, it seems. Apparently, a noise complaint was filed in the end. Maybe because of the noise, a police car has arrived. “Laran Michi-no-Eki,” Gunma Prefecture, Japan The current time is 6 a.m. I’m sorry to say this, but I just want to leave Honshu as soon as possible. This feels like the toughest part of the whole trip. I even thought, “Maybe I should just take a ferry from Niigata to Fukuoka and go home.” But since it’s a full trip around Japan, I should see Hokkaido too. So I’ll gather the last of my strength, head to Niigata, take a ferry to Hokkaido, and spend a few days resting and maintaining both myself and the bike. After that, I’ll travel around Hokkaido beautifully. It’ll take at least six hours to reach Niigata, so I’ll pack up quickly and hit the road. I finished my bivouac at the paid parking lot of “Laran Michi-no-Eki” in Gunma Prefecture, where I came to change my tires. There’s also a free parking area nearby, but it’s such an open space, and since last night was a weekend evening, many bikes were coming and going. To avoid possible troublemakers, I paid 600 yen (about $4) and bivouacked in a corner of the paid parking area. Ah, this place was perfect for not getting any good sleep. In front, trains passed by, and to the right was the expressway toll gate, so as you saw last night, I couldn’t sleep because of the noise. This bivouac might be my last night sleeping outdoors. Because in Hokkaido, there are so many bears. There are plenty of campsites, but I’m honestly scared to camp. Anyway, before it gets any hotter, I’ll leave Gunma Prefecture and head toward Niigata Prefecture to catch the ferry to Hokkaido. The GPS says it’ll take at least six hours. By now, driving for three or four hours feels like nothing. Anyway, let’s go together! Ah, the tire I couldn’t replace yesterday has been successfully sorted out. Do you remember Samuel, the subscriber I met in Osaka who treated me to yakiniku? Thanks to his help and effort, I’ll be able to replace my tires in Sapporo, Hokkaido with the ones I wanted. I’d like to take this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude again. Thank you, Samuel. Truly, thank you so much. Thanks to those who’ve helped me here in Japan, and to everyone in both Korea and Japan who’s been watching and supporting this humble travel series, I’ve been able to continue this journey smoothly and without major trouble. Once again, my heartfelt thanks to all of you. Thank you. (Heart) After riding nonstop for about three hours since I left, it was finally lunchtime when I loosened the throttle in a quiet spot. As I was hurriedly filling my stomach like this, suddenly, I heard the sound of a drone. Hahahahaha My food!! There’s one thing I overlooked. I remembered that Japan, like Korea, also has many large and dangerous hornets. A huge hornet just buzzed around my face moments ago, and wow, that was really scary. After this incident, I realized I should check grassy areas more carefully. Japan also has Asian giant hornets everywhere, so I’ll have to be cautious from now on. I’ll pay special attention to places like this in the future. I think Korea would also look beautiful without guardrails along the roads. Of course, I’m not saying guardrails are bad. In case of emergencies, they make things much safer. But purely in terms of scenic beauty, the greenery fills every gap, and the landscape seems to flood your entire view. Not long after I set off again, a small event made me stop my bike once more. Ta-da! My motorcycle has officially turned four years old. Since I came across a quiet little village, I let go of the throttle again to celebrate its birthday. The total mileage reached 44,444 km, so I stopped for a moment to commemorate it. Coincidentally, this bike is also four years old — I think it’s truly become “four” in every sense. Happy birthday. Let’s blow out the candles. That powerful roar — that’s exactly my trusty companion! I’ve been traveling over 15,000 km with this buddy so far, and it’s always brought me safely and comfortably wherever I wanted to go. Thank you. So, since it’s its birthday, I’ll gift it premium fuel — something I’ve never given it before. I’ll fill it up with high-octane gas! I’ve been driving for four hours already, but there are still two more to go, so I’ll push on with strength. Let’s go — together! And so, passing by countless flowers and lush greenery that cheer in silent strength, and innumerable cozy homes, I finally entered Niigata. Right at that moment! Wow! High-five! So many high-five requests! Nice to see you all! Yes, I’m really happy to see you too! Now I’ve arrived in Niigata City, the final destination on Honshu. I’m almost at my accommodation. Tonight’s lodging is a place called “Hotel Sunroute Niigata.” Here it is. So, where should I park? Maybe I can’t park in the basement? I’d really like to… Is it only for cars, I wonder…? Guess I’ll just park above ground. Same as my last stay — the basement was always off-limits. Hmm… I hope parking here is okay. I’ll ask later just in case. Ah… after such a long journey, I’ve finally made it to the end of Honshu! I’m exhausted, so I’ll check in first. Since Japanese hotels often have unique Wi-Fi systems, I’ll check it right away. — Is this Wi-Fi password valid throughout the entire hotel?
— Yes. — Excuse me, is it okay to park my motorcycle in the outdoor parking lot?
— Oh, a motorcycle? As expected, the underground parking was out of the question, and even the outdoor lot wasn’t available, so I parked in a small space next to the entrance. In city hotels, motorcycles are always treated like outsiders. Interestingly, that’s quite similar to Korea. Huh…? The bed layout here is quite unusual. Someone with a large build might have trouble passing through here. Like this. Other than that, it’s a nice room. For one person, it’s perfectly satisfying. It costs about 3,000 yen (22 dollars) for a Sunday stay. It’s probably cheaper because it’s Sunday. I think I got a good place at a reasonable price. Since it’s my last night on Honshu, I wanted to stay somewhere cozy and comfortable. First things first — I need to book the ferry. To go to Hokkaido tomorrow by ferry, I need to book online and also sign up for a membership. Since I have to register and book using Google Chrome’s translation, it’ll probably take a while, so I’ll start with the reservation. But first, I’ll wash all the clothes I have. I want to head to Hokkaido with a fresh mind. Fortunately, this hotel has a coin laundry, so I don’t need to go far. While the laundry’s running, I’ll hurry to finish the booking. And with that, the reservation is complete. There wasn’t a single ferry bound for Hokkaido tomorrow. It seems there’s no service scheduled. They’ll resume operations at noon the day after tomorrow. So I decided to depart the day after tomorrow. Since I have no choice but to stay another day, I decided to extend my stay here. The fare from Niigata to Otaru in Hokkaido is 20,500 yen. That’s about 180,000 won, or roughly 160 US dollars. I chose the cheapest seat option, which costs 10,500 yen per person, and for motorcycles over 750cc, the fee is a flat 10,000 yen. So I paid a total of 20,500 yen. Wait a second! As of 2025, the fare for one adult is 12,500 yen, and for motorcycles over 750cc, it has increased to 15,600 yen, so the current total is 28,100 yen. Some might think this price is expensive, but if you consider the cost and time it takes to ride all the way to the northernmost point of Honshu, and the fact that you’d still need to take another ferry from there anyway, I don’t think 20,500 yen (160 USD) is expensive at all. It’s a fair price. In fact, it saves time, and overall, it might even be the more economical choice. I think it’s a good decision. The time now is 8 p.m., and the laundry is almost done. Once it’s finished, I’ll pack things up quickly — I found a restaurant nearby that serves horse sashimi. I don’t think I’ve ever eaten horse meat before, except maybe in jerky form. So before heading to Hokkaido, I’ll recharge my energy here in Honshu. As soon as the laundry is done, I’ll head out. I even washed all my underwear. Everything’s clean now. That feels good. Welcome! Do you have a reservation? Is it okay if I’m alone?
Of course. Please wait inside. Please wait just a moment. Thank you for waiting. I’ll show you to your seat. Guiding the new customer! Welcome! Please have a seat here.
Thank you very much. Thank you for visiting. Is this your first time here? Sorry, I don’t speak Japanese. (Silence) Please wait a moment. This is the “Tequila Bell.” Please press it when you’d like to order a drink. For food orders, simply raise your hand and call a staff member. One plate of horse sashimi, and from the single-person menu, a medium-sized assorted sashimi platter. They have three types of alcoholic drinks, including highballs, and each glass costs only 110 yen (about 1 dollar). So I’ll order one of each and try them all. So, one horse sashimi, one horse sashimi, one assorted sashimi, and one drink, one drink, one drink, please!
One, one, one! Would you like all three drinks at once? Yes — bam, bam, bam! Got it! Bam, bam, bam! Is that all for your order?
Yes, thank you! (She was so cute.) This is “Baliking,” a drink, along with Lemon Shower and a regular highball. This Baliking is a highball with a black tea aroma, Lemon Shower is, as the name suggests, a lemon-flavored highball, and the remaining one was just a regular highball. Then came the Yukhoe, the Korean-style raw meat dish, and horse sashimi by cuts. The taste was very similar to beef sashimi, but I would say the texture was a bit thicker or denser. It felt like the meat was tightly packed. It tasted similar to beef, but the meat felt much more dense and solid. However, since a little blood seeps out, it might be difficult to eat for people who dislike bloody food. Luckily, it suited my taste perfectly, and I really enjoyed it. They say “Hokkaido” feels like a completely different country compared to southern Japan, so I’ll do my best to capture its beautiful nature. On Honshu, I spent so much time traveling that it was really exhausting physically. Besides, my motorcycle is designed for long-distance touring, so I thought riding for about seven hours a day would be fine, but in the end, a motorcycle is still a motorcycle. So, while I truly enjoyed the beautiful nature I occasionally came across on Honshu, most of the time it felt like a battle with myself. Because the travel times were so long, I sometimes thought, “Should I just sleep here?” “Is there a place to stay nearby? Or should I just skip Honshu?” “Or maybe I should quit this Japan trip? Should I just go home?” — thoughts like that came to mind. It truly felt like a long battle with myself. Because of all those reasons combined, and because I also needed a refresh, and I wanted to show everyone new scenery and nature, I boldly decided to head over to Hokkaido. So, just like when I first landed in Kyushu, Japan, I want to travel with that same feeling again and share it with you all. So everyone… He seems a little drunk, so let me speak on his behalf: Thank you all so much for accompanying me with such open hearts. I hope you’ll continue to ride beside me on the upcoming Hokkaido journey. Please don’t forget to like and subscribe. Everyone, thank you so much! – That was a truly delicious meal.
– No, thank you very much. – Thank you. Hotel Sunroute, Niigata Prefecture, Japan Morning has come in Niigata. Today is the long-awaited day to head to Hokkaido. From here in Niigata, I’ll take a ferry to a port called Otaru in Hokkaido. The ferry ride takes about 18 hours. Since food on the ship is expensive, I’ve prepared some meals in advance. I have to load my motorcycle before departure, so I plan to arrive about two hours early. Let’s head out quickly! We’re almost there — that must be the ferry. Are you boarding the ferry to Otaru? Ah, yes, I’ve made a reservation. Ten o’clock… Eleven… Eleven…? Twelve o’clock! – Twelve?
– Yes, I booked for twelve. – So you’re going to Otaru, right?
– Yes, I’m heading to Otaru. – Do you see the motorcycles parked in front of that bus? – Park there, then get your boarding ticket at this counter. – After that, turn right around the sign and you’ll see the parking area. – Thank you very much. Following the staff’s directions, I parked my bike and went inside to get my reserved ticket. Shin Nihonkai Ferry Actually, there was something I was a bit worried about. When I booked the ferry, there was a bit of trouble with the license plate entry section. – I’m sorry. I don’t speak Japanese. – Reservation, 12 o’clock, motorcycle. – Motorcycles will start boarding from 11:10.
– Okay. Please ask the staff to guide you to the motorcycle loading area. – Thank you. Fortunately, I was able to resolve it without any major issues. When booking online, you have to enter both kanji and hiragana for the license plate number. But since my plate doesn’t have any hiragana, I just wrote “韓国 (Korea)” in kanji. Since I’m not crossing any borders, it didn’t seem to be a big problem. Thankfully, everything went well and I got my boarding ticket. Now I’ll move my motorcycle to the designated loading area. As soon as I arrived, I was stunned by the sight before me. – This way!
– Yes! Wow… They all have Japanese license plates. It’s a line of motorcycles heading toward Hokkaido. That’s amazing. Thankfully, this person allowed me to film. – How many cc is this bike? – 250cc (YAMAHA XT250)
– Ah, 250cc, I see. Look at the luggage loaded onto this 250cc motorcycle. You wouldn’t believe it unless you saw it in person. That’s a lot of luggage — probably more than mine. It’s packed beyond the rear wheel, so you can imagine how much there is. He’s traveling with his luggage stacked like that — incredible. – Thank you very much! Everyone seems to be carrying a lot of luggage on their bikes. Impressive, isn’t it? Compared to the riders I just showed you, my bike is nothing. It’s just that my bike is bigger, that’s all. And this big ship here is the one I’ll be taking today — the “Azalea.” “Azalea” means “진달래 (azalea flower)” in Korean. Its size is about the same as the “Hamayu,” the ship I took when I first came to Japan. Now that the trucks are all loaded, it’s time for the motorcycles to board. Wow… What a spectacular sight. Wow… look at how this person packed their luggage. Most Japanese riders stack their luggage two or three tiers high like that. Actually, that one’s four tiers high. I’ve taken several ferries in Japan, but I’ve never seen this many motorcycles before. Now, boarding begins! I gently roll my tires onto the deck, carrying the final excitement of my Japan journey. This Azalea ferry had a slightly different loading system. Maybe because there were so many motorcycles, they didn’t tie them down together with cars — there was a special section just for motorcycles. Here’s what the cheapest room on the Shin Nihonkai Ferry I booked looks like. Unlike the “Hamayu” ferry I took when entering Japan, there are no large shared rooms here. Even the cheapest rooms are divided into separate spaces. The bed is spacious enough for an adult man to lie down comfortably. A pillow and blanket are provided by default. There’s also a shelf where you can place your belongings, and a small compartment to keep your personal items safe. There’s even a lamp on the wall — can you see it? There’s also a 110V outlet, so charging won’t be a problem. Finally, if you want to rest or spend some quiet time alone, you can just pull down the blind. Anyway, the conclusion is that I’ve boarded the ferry to Hokkaido. It’s so hot right now, so I’m going to start with a can of beer. The structure was a bit different from other ferries I’ve taken in Japan, but the overall layout was quite similar. There’s also a restaurant available. A variety of menu items are offered here. However, as expected, the prices are on the expensive side. That’s exactly why I brought food from the convenience store. Just like on the “Hamayu” ferry, there are vending machines for drinks and beer here too. Beer is a little pricey though — 400 yen. But still! Look at this weather. It’s the perfect day to head for Hokkaido. Among all my journeys around Japan, Hokkaido was the one I looked forward to the most. Now, it’s finally time to depart. Humans really are fickle beings. I was so eager to leave Honshu, yet now that the end has come, I can’t help but feel regret. “I should’ve tried harder, even if it was difficult.” “I should’ve said one more kind word, even if everything had already dried up.” Maybe I’m not the only one who feels this way. There’s a saying, right? “A ship that leaves port never looks back,” as they say. So, I’ll wave proudly at the past I’ve left behind, and make the coming days in Hokkaido even more beautiful. I’m already excited for my journey in Hokkaido. Ah, it feels so good! Then, I’ll soon return with the moving story of Hokkaido, written with the fragrance of the new vegetation I encountered for the first time. There’s a behind-the-scenes clip waiting, so keep smiling until the very end. Blowing warm breath onto my frozen hands… Not “Top,” but “Maybe.” There aren’t any tall hills around here. This place probably has a name too. Maybe it’s called the “Tabun Line”? “Top is okay.” – Are motorcycles not allowed?
– Maybe it’s fine. Since he said “Top is okay,” I thought motorcycles could go through. Many of you left comments after seeing this scene, but what the elderly man in the yellow raincoat actually said was, not “Top is okay,” but “Maybe it’s okay.” He meant “It’s probably fine.” But back then, I didn’t know the word “maybe,” so I heard it as “Top is okay.” After uploading that video, I saw the comments pointing it out — I was so embarrassed! How embarrassed were you guys? Haha. I’ll always remain “Kim Outside,” the same slightly embarrassing me, no matter where I go. Thank you.

숨 막히는 혼슈의 절경과 점점 쌓여가는 피로함과의 첨예한 줄다리기!
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[ 영상에 나온 장소]
• 유니버셜 스튜디오 재팬 (USJ)
• 와카야마 ‘부산’(영철님의 식당)
• 와카야마 ‘토리케도쿠츠’(깃털동굴)
• 와카야마 ‘시치리미하마’
• 비와호
• 시와카라고
• 노토반도
• 가미코치
• 후지산(모토스 호수, 고암캠핑장)
• 사이타마현 ‘INITIAL D 사다미네 코스’
• 니이가타현 ‘신니혼카이페리’

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