月山志津温泉の極上宿｜変若水の湯つたや【月山・湯殿山の拠点にお勧め】｜Luxury Onsen Ryokan Tsutaya – Best base for Mt.Gassan & Mt.Yudono
This is Ryo. This time, we present the third part of the Dewa Sanzan series. We will introduce Gassan Shizu Onsen, located at 600 meters on the southern foot of Mount Gassan. This land, overlooking Mount Gassan and Mount Ubagatake, is deeply connected to the Dewa Sanzan faith. It once served as an important inn town where pilgrims and yamabushi rested. And even today, it is blessed with the natural beauty unique to a region of heavy snowfall, together with Gassan Ski Resort, where you can ski even in early summer, it continues to attract many travelers. In front of the inn lies a primeval beech forest, and nearby, Goshiki-numa Pond changes its appearance with each season, providing an environment that enhances the healing effects of the hot spring. From the inn, you can also see the summit of Mount Gassan and Mount Ubagatake. It is truly the perfect location. Now, let’s begin by introducing the inn. Here is the inn we will be featuring today, Ochimizu no Tsutaya. Tsutaya is a long-established ryokan founded in 1930, The name ‘Ochimizu’ refers to, the legendary water of rejuvenation said to be held by Tsukuyomi-no-Mikoto, the deity enshrined on Mount Gassan. The wish is that a soak in Shizu Onsen will make you feel rejuvenated. —that is the hope behind the name. In fact, the spring quality here is excellent, so I’ll go over the details a little later. As always, I’ll show you the facilities, rooms, baths, dinner, and breakfast—in that order. The lobby carries a pleasantly nostalgic, retro atmosphere. Through the large front windows, a sea of greenery spreads out, and the high atrium creates a wonderfully open space. The stream running outside the windows adds to the charm, making it feel like a secluded mountain hideaway. At the back of the lobby, there’s a quaint little reading room. This is an ōnusa, a ritual wand used in Shinto, a sacred implement for purification, hinting that this place is more than just a hot-spring inn. As it happens, the chairman of this ryokan is a former yamabushi who trained rigorously in the Dewa Sanzan. When I asked about climbing Mount Gassan, he kindly walked me through the route, pointing it out on a map. Staying here isn’t just about the hot springs; you also gain access to valuable experiences and guidance. And what’s more, Tsutaya, about 30 minutes by car from Yudonosan, offers an early-morning pilgrimage to Yudonosan every day. It’s not just a casual visit— a Shinto priest will perform a blessing as part of the tour. Because Yudonosan is a place of “do not ask, do not tell,” very little information is publicly shared, so this is incredibly helpful if it’s your first visit. On the day, you don the white robes of an ascetic, and after the rites, they’ll even take a commemorative photo. A wonderful keepsake from your journey. Here’s the souvenir corner. They sell local sake and wine tied to Dewa Sanzan, as well as some fun T-shirts. The property is spacious and makes you want to wander around. At the end of this skywalk is the bath tower. This lounge lets you relax after a soak while taking in the view. The main bath is filled with the warmth of wood, and the huge windows open onto sweeping natural scenery. Beyond the main bath, there are also private baths. I’ll show you those in a moment. There’s even a ping-pong room in the basement. With just 20 rooms, it’s intimate yet great for traveling with a group. And that’s not all for the facilities. Around the back, I found an intriguing new building. It looks quite new, doesn’t it? This is the “Alaya Steam Bath,” a sauna newly built in 2023. ‘Alaya’ refers to a deep layer of consciousness beyond the five senses, and in Shugendō, training this layer is said to cleanse everyday assumptions and bias. This steam bath is designed to reset the mind to its natural state, reflecting the spirit of mountain worship. Next, let me show you the room we’re staying in. It’s a corner room at the very end of the hall. Open the door and you find a straight hallway, giving a sense of spaciousness. The raised entry step has been made barrier-free, so wheelchairs can enter the room. Handrails and a seat are provided—thoughtful design for older guests. Stylish transom panels let in soft light. Let’s step inside. A spacious modern Japanese room blending tradition with contemporary design. You can feel the attention to detail in the tatami, ceiling, and walls, creating a refined yet calming space. These are “Gassan Snow Dumplings,” available only in summer. Chewy and delightful—really tasty. The tatami-crafted decor is chic, isn’t it? And these charming Yamagata kokeshi dolls. There’s another room across the hall—let’s have a look. In contrast, this one is a Western-style room reminiscent of a city hotel. The Japanese room was spacious, and this is roomy as well. It’s bright, with a white palette and gentle light streaming in. There are twin beds in a generous space. The beds are luxuriously soft—super comfortable. With such a generous layout, a family of four could stay here. There’s something on the ceiling— it’s actually a projector! Plenty of in-room amenities. Easy-to-use hanging-door storage. There’s another sliding door behind the beds. It opens to a compact wash area. And on the other side, there’s a toilet. The layout is thoughtfully designed so you can reach it safely at night. And beyond the large window up front, you can look out over the primeval forest, Goshiki-numa, and even Mount Gassan— a one-of-a-kind, grand panorama. What an incredible room. Lastly, let’s check the bathroom area. Simple, but very clean and stylish. A wide vanity—great for women travelers. Chic chairs crafted from two slabs of wood. Even the subtle details show good taste. This appears to be the main toilet. Two separate wash areas and toilets—this suite is perfection. And the bath is just beyond here. Spacious and elegant. A stylish stone wall with a wood-grain ceiling, and a generously sized hinoki tub. There’s even an overhead shower, At this point it feels less like a ryokan and more like a luxury hotel. And then there’s this view. Placing the bath in the best corner spot—how luxurious. The water type is sodium-chloride spring. With a pH of 7.4, it’s right on the edge of neutral, meaning it’s effectively mildly alkaline and gentle on the skin. Sodium-chloride springs are known for excellent heat retention, and are said to help with skin issues, neuralgia, and fatigue recovery. This spring also contains bicarbonate, which gently dissolves dead skin for a cleansing effect, and with about 4,000 mg of chloride, it acts as a natural moisturizer, so it both “removes and seals”—a double action for beautiful skin. The texture is silky and slightly clingy, truly worthy of the name “Ochimizu no Yu.” Now, let’s head to dinner. Unfortunately, my wife isn’t with me this time, so it’s a lonely solo dinner. They were considerate and seated me at a quiet corner table. The menu features mountain vegetables, grilled fish, teppan-grilled dishes, and imoni stew—pure Yamagata, pure Gassan. It all looks promising—very “Yamagata,” very “Gassan.” And this is Yamagata, a kingdom of sake—so many choices. I ordered the local Gassan craft beer. Let’s toast—with the aperitif—and dig in. Ever since Hijiori Onsen, I’ve become hooked on mountain-vegetable dishes. These are the seeds of mizu. A charm of sansai cuisine is how the ingredients change with the seasons. This is tobina, a mushroom that grows on beech trees, a variety unique to this region. How rare—what a treat. And this beautifully shaped sesame tofu. Fresh from the grill, sweetfish (ayu) has arrived. Ayu season is just about over. What I was really looking forward to, though, is the teppanyaki tasting: Gassan Wagyu versus Yamagata Beef. Note: you need to select this tasting plan when booking. On the right is Yamagata Beef; on the left, Gassan Wagyu. Look at that marbling. Gassan Wagyu is a rare brand of beef raised in the rich natural environment of Nishikawa, where Tsutaya is located. Let’s start with Yamagata Beef. Luxurious, mellow texture. Next up, Gassan Wagyu. You hardly ever get a chance to try it. Wow—exceptionally tender. It melts in your mouth. Truly kuroge wagyu carefully raised amid great nature. I could be satisfied with just the beef, but the meal continues. Here we have freshly fried summer-vegetable tempura, steaming hot and fluffy. And to finish, it has to be imoni—of course. Plus, springy, plump millet rice. Another jackpot meal this time. From mountain-vegetable dishes to a beef tasting and imoni— I wish my wife could have tasted this. After a very satisfying dinner, let’s enjoy the private baths. There are two private baths; both are free to use. First, I’ll try Buna-no-Yu (Beech Bath). A ceramic tub in a roomy space, perfect for a quiet soak on your own. Next is Bashō-no-Yu. They even have a Dyson fan here. Perfect after you’ve warmed up thoroughly. This tub is larger than the previous one—big enough for two. With large windows, it must feel wonderful in daylight. I’m climbing Mount Gassan tomorrow, so I’ll soak well and rest up. Goshiki-numa looks lovely in the morning. These chestnuts look delicious—autumn is near. The summit of Mount Gassan is calm today, too. The air is crystal clear—what a magnificent place. As I was in the morning bath, the skies cleared up nicely. Even the breakfast menu displays weather and trail information. Such thoughtful hospitality. A well-balanced breakfast: salmon, mountain vegetables, a soft-boiled hot-spring egg, salad, and more. Then Tsuyahime rice from a wooden tub with homemade umeboshi— fueling up for the hike. Dessert is yogurt loaded with fruit. Another clean plate—delicious to the end. Back in the room, I enjoy the view and a coffee one last time, and check out. This time we featured a hot-spring ryokan at 600 meters, nestled at the foot of Mount Gassan, Ochimizu-no-Yu Tsutaya. Because Gassan isn’t an active volcano, the number of hot springs is limited, but from here, it’s easy to access the Ubasawa Trailhead for Gassan and Yudonosan as well, making it an ideal base for your trip. A quiet waterside inn beneath Mount Gassan, it offers a setting that calms the heart. Add in a truly mineral-rich hot spring with high salinity, seasonal mountain-vegetable cuisine and premium wagyu, and warm hospitality from staff deeply versed in Dewa Sanzan. In every respect, this is a ryokan for connoisseurs. Rooms, baths, cuisine, service—across the board, it delivers. I can recommend it with confidence. If you’re coming by public transport, take the Yamagata Shinkansen to Sakuranbo-Higashine Station, or use the shared “Gassan Liner” taxi from Yamagata Airport— either way it’s about an hour. Note that reservations are required for the Gassan Liner. Here at Travel in the wind, we’ll continue to share the charm of quality journeys and fine inns. If this video helped your travel planning, please give it a like and subscribe, and feel free to leave comments or questions below. Next episode preview Dewa Sanzan Series Final Mt.Gassan & Mt.Yudono
凄い温泉宿を発見しちゃいました！
山形県・月山のふもとに広がる月山志津温泉。
「変若水の湯つたや」は、月山登山や秋の紅葉シーズンにおすすめの極上宿です。
美肌の湯と評判の温泉、旬の食材を使った料理、そして出羽三山巡りの拠点としても人気の宿をご紹介します。
Located at the foot of Mt. Gassan in Yamagata,
Shizu Onsen “Wakamizu no Yu Tsutaya” is a traditional Japanese ryokan, perfect for autumn travel in Japan and Gassan hiking.
Known for its skin-beautifying hot spring and seasonal kaiseki cuisine, it also serves as an ideal base for exploring the sacred Dewa Sanzan mountains.
【今回の宿泊先】
月山志津温泉 変若水の湯つたや（山形県西村山郡西川町志津１０）
【逸品のお肉2種】食べ比べ「月山和牛・山形牛」鉄板焼きプラン
【半露天風呂付特別室】（和室＋ツインベッド） (和洋室)
１名１泊夕朝食付き：89,350円（税込）※諸割引含む
▶︎予約サイト： 一休.com
https://px.a8.net/svt/ejp?a8mat=459XQY+9CZD6A+1OK+6MROH
そして同じ出羽三山の旅では、秘境の湯治場「肘折温泉」も訪れました。
昔ながらの温泉街と老舗旅館をご紹介していますので、ぜひこちらもご覧ください。
As part of the Dewa Sanzan journey, we also visited Hijiori Onsen, a hidden hot spring village.
👉 [肘折温泉の動画はこちら]Watch the Hijiori Onsen video here
🎥 「Travel in the wind」では、日本各地の美しい風景・観光地・ホテルをご紹介しています。チャンネル登録もぜひお願いいたします！
“Travel in the wind” introduces beautiful scenery, sightseeing spots, and hotels from all over Japan. Please subscribe to our channel!
🔔 チャンネル登録はこちら：www.youtube.com/@T-wind-du1nv
1:18 宿のご紹介
1:53 館内施設
3:49 大浴場
4:17 サウナ-阿頼耶蒸け風呂-
4:52 ルームツアー
8:08 客室風呂＆泉質紹介
9:26 夕食
12:12 貸切風呂
13:40 朝食
14:22 総評
15:10 アクセス
15:45 次回予告
#月山志津温泉
#変若水の湯つたや
#紅葉旅行
#出羽三山
#JapaneseRyokan
#LuxuryOnsen
#JapanTravel