【沖縄・座間味島旅行】世界が恋する慶良間ブルー｜ウミガメと泳ぐスキンダイビング&ビーチ巡り｜阿嘉島散策

【沖縄・座間味島旅行】世界が恋する慶良間ブルー｜ウミガメと泳ぐスキンダイビング&ビーチ巡り｜阿嘉島散策

For my birthday trip, I’m heading to Okinawa again this summer.
Starting a remote island journey by ferry from the main island. I’m off to Okinawa! Taking a bus to the arrival lobby. I’ve arrived in Okinawa. This time, I rented a camera. I’m going to pick up the camera now. It’s definitely really humid. So this time— First, I’ll take the Yui Rail to Tomari. From Tomari, I’ll take a ferry to Zamami Island. I’ve arrived at Miebashi. Totally caught off guard. It takes about 10 minutes on foot from here to Tomarin Port. So I’ll have to walk. It’s definitely better to just take a taxi from the airport. There aren’t many restaurants at Tomarin,
so I went into a soba shop next to it. This is Sanmai-niku soba. That one is Soki soba. Since I didn’t have much time, I had to eat quickly.
Okinawa soba with a light broth, easy to eat. Zamami is this way, to the right. Let’s go. The Queen Zamami ferry is the white and orange one. It’s so far away. The boarding area was pretty far, really tiring…
Better to head out with plenty of time. Now that I’m on the ferry— I’ll put together the GoPro. This time— I rented it from a place called MOVIEGENIC OKINAWA. Gave it a try. I rented the GoPro HERO13 diving set. My main goal is filming underwater, but I also want to shoot on land. All set up. The ferry makes a stop at Aka Island, another part of the Kerama Islands. So many people here. We’ve arrived. Welcome to Zamami Village. First, I’ll check in to my accommodation. Walking through the village. Spotted a Zamami kitty. Later, I plan to rent something from Rental Ishikawa. Planning to rent here. It suddenly cleared up! I’ve eaten at this place before. Actually, this is my third time in Zamami Village.
Though it was 4–5 years ago, the scenery is bringing back memories. Ah, isn’t this the place? Let’s check in. Check-in starts from 2 p.m. This time, I’m staying at Holoholo. The room is very simple, like this. But it’s clean. At least we avoided sleeping all together on the floor. Among the many guesthouses, this one feels pretty clean. That table feels nostalgic. Looks like we could buy food and eat here. Here’s the bathroom. A unit bath… but without a bathtub. Some twin rooms have tubs, but you couldn’t choose when booking.
We won’t use one during the trip anyway, so no problem. Alright. Let’s head out to explore the island. First, check out that 105 Store, then rent some bikes. Not many people, and it’s cooling down. The island’s only supermarket, which we’ll visit many times.
Everyone calls it “Marugo.” They sell food, drinks, daily goods—basically everything. Here, no reservation needed.
You can rent bikes, e-bikes, scooters, even kickboards. We got an e-bike for 6 hours… Well, until 8pm when they close. So beautiful! There’s Marilyn. Dragonfly attack! Marilyn is said to be facing Shiro over on Aka Island. Apparently. Where’s Shiro, I wonder? Looks like rain clouds heading Shiro’s way… We’ve arrived at Ama Beach. Tried to go in the water but the lifeguard stopped me… That rain cloud must be coming. So swimming is banned. For now, no touching the water. Please. That rain cloud apparently brought lightning. So right now, swimming is banned everywhere. It’s so beautiful, yet we can’t touch the water… What kind of punishment is this? The rain cloud drifted off to the right, so the ban was lifted. We only waited like 3 minutes. The weather changes so quickly here. It’s forecast to rain tomorrow and the next day. But the lifeguard said, “Who knows?” Time to snorkel. The water is unbelievably clear. Huh, no fish. Ama Beach is home to sea turtles,
and if you’re lucky, you can see them. The beach is shallow with calm waves. There are no fish at all, so I’ll shift a little. There they are. Looks like more over here. Still, not many fish. Hurry. Let’s move a bit. We’re heading from Ama Beach to Furuzamami Beach.
It takes about 15 minutes by bicycle. Spectacular view. We’ve arrived at Furuzamami Beach. The beach huts have rental gear available.
It feels more active than Ama Beach. Pedaled hard on the bike. From Ama Beach to Furuzamami Beach, I rushed all the way. It took about 15 minutes. On the way, there were a lot of slopes, so it might be tough without an e-bike. With a regular bike, I think it’d be hard. Compared to Ama Beach, the waves are bigger and it’s a bit deeper. At high tide, the swimming area expands,
and you can swim over coral-rich areas. Next time, I’ll bring fins… Isn’t this hermit crab’s shell cute? Stylish. Exploring the other side of the rocks. A bit dangerous though. This side is a no-swimming area, so no one’s here. Lots of islands on this side. We’re back at Ama Beach now. Even with cloudy skies, we’re searching for a spot where we might catch the sunset. This is Kami-no-hama Observatory. Actually, I wanted to go to Onnazaki Observatory, but we’re running out of time, so I’m debating whether to go. That’s what I’m thinking. For now, let’s go as far as we can. You can see a bit of the sunset. Shall we go a little further? Is this road okay? So dark. We’ve arrived. No one’s here. Where’s the sun? Clouds… We rarely get lucky with sunsets in Okinawa. Here? Tonight’s dinner is at Aono-umi. We had a reservation, so we got in smoothly.
During peak season, it’s fully booked, so reservations are a must. Cheers. Tonight’s sashimi:
Bigeye tuna, Akamachi, striped jack, amberjack, Spanish mackerel, and salmon. Is this Akamachi? My first Akamachi. Kind of like sea bream? Okinawan choice. From under the mozuku, tofu appeared. Oh, kimchi. A bit spicy. I haven’t eaten mozuku that’s not in vinegar much. Tasty. Mimiga. Crunchy. This is a salad. Lots of veggies in it too. Actually, I wanted pizza. I wanted Rafute Pizza. But pizza’s sold out… All pizzas gone. Sad. The goya is delicious. Goya with spam and bean sprouts, and tofu. So good. This was my personal No.1 dish. The restaurant gave us Koregusu, which was almost like awamori. Not spicy at all. Everything was so delicious. Popular dishes may sell out! If you stay in Zamami, I highly recommend stargazing.
On a clear night, the view is breathtaking. It didn’t show on the Osmo, so here’s an iPhone shot. iPhone’s capability is insane. Morning on the island, filled with bird calls.
The weather forecast was wrong—it’s sunny today. Actually, we could have had breakfast here, but we forgot to make a reservation. Yesterday. Guests at Holoholo can have breakfast for ¥800. *Reservation required. We’ll look for breakfast while strolling
through the still quiet morning island. Zamami, an island that’s kind to cats. I want to rent a bicycle for early morning sea activities. Could it be here? Self-service bicycle rental. 2 hours ¥300. A self-service bicycle rental is convenient when you want a bike early in the morning or late at night. Available 24 hours. I’m getting hungry… Wow, this road really… Feels amazing, doesn’t it? The coastal road is beautiful. Walking here must feel great too. Oh— The sky and sea are so blue. Ah, so beautiful. Waking up early on this island definitely brings more than threefold happiness. I found a staircase… And climbed up. …Apparently, there was nothing special. Without an electric bike, this hill is tough. This area is beautiful, isn’t it? There are many cottages around here, and last night some people were having a BBQ. Huh? Uh… It’s not open, is it? Looking closely, it says open from 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM. Ah. The information is different. I couldn’t have breakfast, but let’s take a quick look at the beach. Looks nice and empty. There are some people snorkeling. So cold! I still prefer this side of the sea. So clear. Absolutely perfect. My inner thoughts just spilling out. I wish I could have had breakfast here. Is that Aka Island? It’s getting sunny. Over there is the place we went yesterday, Kaminohama Observatory. It looks far from here, but it’s about 15 minutes by bike. Not really that far. A rainbow appeared! Back to Zamami village. Whoa! Zamami Fisheries Cooperative. I wanted to try their marinated fish bowl for breakfast, so I came here. The rice isn’t ready yet. Seems I came a bit too early. The cooperative is a local fresh fish shop. Freshly caught fish were arriving even in the morning. Heading to a nearby store. Onigiri, sandwiches, and bento boxes are available. So, today’s meal is… The chicken tartar burger was sold at 105 Store. The po-tama I bought earlier at Komine Store and the one I bought yesterday. I hope it’s okay. Like this, in front of the cooperative, there’s a table, so I’ll eat here. The ultimate harbor view. The lineup filled me up more than expected. Very satisfying. Now, on the tour, skindiving, the kind where you dive deep, is coming up. Majestic and cool islands. The boat had a glass bottom. Heading to the next point. Sailing south between Zamami and Aka Island. Mozuku noodles. I wonder if it’s closed today. I was planning to have lunch here, but… Sadly, CLOSED. The trap of irregular holidays… We’ve arrived at the port. It wasn’t supposed to be sunny today, but it is, so I want to go to Aka Island. You can travel between Zamami and Aka Island using the village route “Mitsushima,” which runs four round trips a day. There’s the Mitsushima. Same pier as the high-speed Queen Zamami. Before I knew it, the farewell crew had jumped into the sea… What is this sense of youth? First, hit the beach? Nishihama Beach. Buying the return ticket first. Could that be… Shiro? A nice bridge has been built. Fewer people than Zamami, calm Aka Island. Feels great…! First time on Aka Island. Stopping by the info center. They kindly showed me where to rent a bike and the way to the sea. Here, there’s a supermarket called Tatsutojo, where you can rent a bicycle. Ah, a deer! There’s a deer right now. A supermarket, guesthouse, and bike rental shop all in one. They explain the way to the beach. I rented a bicycle. At the back, there’s also a luggage rack. A luggage rack is quietly appreciated. Suddenly, a beautiful emerald green. This must be what they call Kerama Blue. A deer! Are you eating grass? So cute… So peaceful. Ah, another deer. It ran away. A gentle uphill continues… (Tired) I spotted a beach house. Seems like there’s only one. The whitest white sand, whiter than any other beach. No Japanese people here, almost feels like overseas. Since I couldn’t have lunch, I’ll eat the treats I bought when renting the bike earlier. Brown sugar po-po and Shikuwasa po-po. I wonder what po-po actually is. Also, just in case I go hungry, I bought candied sweet potatoes at 105 Store. Thicker than a crepe. Foods like this exist, right? All in all, I ended up liking po-po. Only these white fish around… They’re very friendly and surround me. I returned the bicycle. Exhausted from speeding around too much. It takes about 45 minutes to the ferry, so I’ll try going over the bridge. Impressive. A sturdy bridge. Connecting Geruma Island and Aka Island. What’s on Geruma Island? Nothing. Just nature. From Aka Bridge, looking down at the only settlement on the island, Aka District. A tiny island with about 230 people, not even a traffic light. No turtles in sight. Apparently, you can sometimes see sea turtles swimming under the bridge. During this short stay, I really fell in love with Aka Island. I wish I could have stayed longer… I made a last-minute call yesterday, and barely got a reservation…! I wonder how the roof looks. More menu options than yesterday’s place. Ah. Tuna in Okinawa is delicious. It’s lean, but melts in your mouth. Last year, Hitoshi (Ishigaki Island) was amazing too. I have a new respect for tuna. The dishes come so fast, I can’t keep up. I love island shallots. Overall, the flavors are strong and go well with alcohol. (I’m non-alcoholic) Crunchy. Is this eaten with wasabi? A slightly fatty Agu pork. The wasabi makes it a bit refreshing. Revenge Rafute (braised pork belly). Thick. Tender. Completely soft. What is this? The seasoning. Is it using brown sugar? Delicious. Yummy. What is this… That was delicious. I’m glad I made a last-minute reservation yesterday. Right now, several people can’t get a reservation, and many are being turned away. During the season, reservations are a must. I almost became a dinner refugee… And on the third day, an unexpected situation occurred. Queen Zamami and Ferry Zamami are completely canceled due to rough seas. I’m supposed to go home today, but both the ferry and high-speed boat are completely canceled. A typhoon is approaching. So, when I asked the guesthouse staff, they said they could arrange a charter. So I’ll use that to return early. Thanks, brother. Thanks to the tour boat captain, I can go home now. I was actually planning to spend today in Zamami… Forgot to reserve breakfast again, so time for the usual breakfast hunt. The sky is clear, but it’s lightly drizzling. Walking around the settlement. Here’s the elementary school. Also a middle school If you go up this slope Takatsukiyama Observatory 1 km from here Not impossible to walk, but It’s all uphill, so tough Inazaki Observatory is 2.7 km too Familiar 105 Store Today maybe mayo-mentai (po-tama) Look at this A float ring Sanpin tea, lost count of how many I drank.
In Okinawa, this is the only choice. Used to be 500 yen (gyosan) Now 1500 yen Of course, also inflation on the remote islands. Breakfast at 105 Store’s storefront. There’s a guy just for mayo-mentai Not the cashier from before Maybe the maker After all, breakfast ends up being po-tama Always So better to reserve breakfast. It hurts to open my mouth Later, this bearded guy develops cold sores.
Be careful with travel fatigue and lack of sleep. The weather’s super nice So sunny, yet the boat isn’t running… weird Public cat toilet Loved by locals, Zamami cats. Heading to the port a bit Since it was canceled, I got my ticket refunded.
If purchased by credit card, it doesn’t auto-cancel, so be careful! Trying the tourist info center for the first time There’s a cafe here too Cafe Yukuru-ya Okinawa is active in eco and environmental efforts
Very appealing. Quick peek at the second floor seating This place is really nice Also has a terrace Nice Right in front of the port When waiting for the ferry This place could be useful In the end, the weather’s good They say a typhoon is coming, but… The wind feels nice Light meals like sandwiches and pizza are available
Could even have lunch here. Any regrets? None Fatigue has already taken over. I wanted to go around the whole island… Talk about the fishery cooperative’s marinated bowl The rice wasn’t cooked yesterday If going there, better for lunch Quite busy at lunchtime All the outdoor terrace seats were full Must be popular Ferry terminal waiting room Seems the charter boat is a fishing boat.
Many passengers as it’s shared with nearby inns’ guests. OMG, first time ever, so funny At this point, still unaware.
This is the only time I can laugh… In such luggage… Departed Seasick in 30 minutes… A woman next to me, seeing me getting sick,
gave me some motion sickness pills. Took one pill. Doesn’t seem to work much yet. Holding a plastic bag, thinking over and over. Just… let me off “Stuck on a boat” is literally what this is. Returning to Tomari Port Good job! Soon recovered.
Stopped by the kamaboko shop that was closed on the way. Yaeyama kamaboko, made with fresh fish from nearby seas.
Cute bite-sized pieces. Looks delicious I love fish paste.
Got Asa & red ginger fried kamaboko, juicy rice ball kamaboko. Maybe only the ferry to Tokashiki Island is running Why is Tokashiki running while Zamami & Aka are canceled? For now, luggage is a hassle, so drop it at the airport first.
Return flight is at night. This scenery feels like déjà vu I already checked my luggage, so I’m light and free Riding Yui Rail again Today, this area Around the airport Or Kokusai Street Planning to explore Naha city About 6 hours in Naha.
No transport is tough since it’s last minute. I want tacos And Lucky Tacos Closed Tuesdays & Sundays It was Tuesday. Many places closed on Tuesday… Walking Kokusai Street again Second stop: Charlie Takosu, but… Closed Third time’s the charm… Cute shop but obviously small capacity… …Wait outside until open.
It’s scorching, sweating just standing. Waited about 20 min, then entered Really delicious!
Should have ordered more tacos… Left Kokusai Street, walked Ukishima Street.
Fashion street with apparel and secondhand shops. From here, Heiwa-dori Shopping Street Ended up in an amazing bar district Doesn’t this cat have an AirTag? Is this the era we live in? I can see it Since I made it all the way to Kokusai Street,
Yachimun Street makes you want to visit again and again. Every shop is cheering for Koshien Congratulations Okinawa on the win Was this here before? Yachimun Street after several years,
time flows gently as before. Contrary to the ever-changing Tokyo,
it feels nice that the scenery of a travel destination I visited after a long time
remains unchanged. There’s a cat The shop cat is still around Maybe it remembered me Reviving. Reliable Don Quijote Seems like my favorite seasoning isn’t here. I stick with trusty Koregusu.
Bought various souvenirs too. Donki is the best. Heading to the airport soon In the end, no typhoon formed, and the third day was sunny all day. Mai-chan, done with work, came to see me off. Feels nostalgic, right? For some reason, Mai-chan gives me Okinawa souvenirs. Explaining the morning’s rush. And then farewell. Thanks for coming! Missed dinner, so I eat Mamiya Kamaboko’s juicy rice ball.
Always seems like I miss something to eat on trips. Delicious! Savoring Okinawa till the end.
Healed by nature, and even more captivated by Okinawa’s charm.

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00:00 Intro／沖縄へ
03:03 「クイーンざまみ」で座間味村へ／宿紹介
07:02 レンタサイクルで阿真ビーチへ
10:17 古座間味ビーチへ、シュノーケル
15:01 青の海で晩ごはん／星空観測
17:44 DAY2／朝海活と朝ごはん
23:14 スキンダイビングのツアーに参加
28:18 村内航路「みつしま」で阿嘉島へ／ニシバマビーチ
35:10 三楽で晩ごはん
37:46 トラブルから始まるDAY3／海沿いのカフェ
43:09 漁船で泊港に帰ります…
45:28 最終日は予定を変更して那覇観光

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[ 📍 訪れた場所 ]
-📷 MOVIEGENIC OKINAWA　https://moviegenic.okinawa/
-🏨 島stay holoholo　http://msm.to/4xDtZxi
-🍙 105ストアー　https://www.vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/guidemap/detail/196/
-🚲 レンタルちゃりんこバイク石川　https://www.vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/guidemap/detail/222/
-🍴 青の海　https://www.instagram.com/aonoumi_zamami/
-🚲 レンタル宮村　https://www.vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/guidemap/detail/224/
-🐟 座間味村漁協　https://www.instagram.com/zamamigyokyou/?hl=ja
-🍙 こみね商店　https://www.vill.zamami.okinawa.jp/guidemap/detail/198/
-🚲 辰登城　https://tatsunojo.jimdosite.com/
-🍴 三楽　https://www.instagram.com/zamami_santa/?hl=ja
-🐟 マーミヤかまぼこ　https://www.instagram.com/marmiyakamaboko/
-🌮 DRUNK TACOS　https://www.instagram.com/drunk__tacos/

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