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Tucked away on the stunning Roseland Peninsula 
lies the charming village of St. Mawes. With its picturesque harbour, winding streets, and 
thatched cottages, you can feel the past all around you. Join us as we explore this delightful 
Cornish gem, including a tour of the magnificent Tudor fortress built by King Henry VIII. We’ll 
walk the walls of this unique cloverleaf-shaped fort that has guarded the estuary for nearly 500 
years. We’ll take to the water for a charming 20-minute chug across the Carrick Roads to 
the famous port of Falmouth, where centuries of maritime history meet a thriving modern 
culture. We’ll soak up the lively atmosphere of its bustling streets before returning 
to the calm and tranquillity of St. Mawes. The journey to St. Mawes sets the stage 
for an experience. Approaching by road involves navigating scenic winding lanes, 
which heightens the sense of arrival at a   hidden gem tucked away from the more bustling 
parts of Cornwall. St Mawes is situated at the end of the Roseland Peninsula, just here on 
the map opposite the historic maritime port of Falmouth. There is one large car park 
right in the centre of the action. So, let’s find a space. To reach St. Mawes by 
bus from major towns like Truro or Falmouth. Consult the Transport for Cornwall website. 
Various local companies operate these services, so checking their timetables and routes will 
help you find a suitable bus to the village. So, we’ve parked in St. Mawes, main car park, 
and it’s £6 for the parking. That’ll take us up to 6:00 tonight, which will be more than enough 
time for us. Going to have a look around St.   Mawes first and then we’ve pre-booked a day return 
on the ferry. £13 each, 20-minute crossing each way, and that’ll take us into Falmouth. And we can 
have a look around Falmouth as well as part of this video. The village’s main thoroughfare is best 
described by an anonymous writer in 1880 as a “long straggling street fronted with water”. This 
organic, unplanned layout speaks of its origins as a fishing hamlet that grew simply by extending 
along the shoreline. Today, this street is lined with a variety of businesses that cater to 
modern visitors, including quirky gift boutiques and art galleries, showcasing local artists 
and independent craft shops selling handmade jewellery and pottery. We loved the old petrol 
pumps outside the closed-down car service station. The lovely blue boat that’s backing out 
of the harbour is the ferry to Falmouth,   and we’ll take a trip on that later in the video. St. Mawes is believed to have come from Ireland 
in the fifth century and established a chapel and holy well here. This spiritual origin laid 
the foundation for a settlement that would,   over the centuries, adapt its purpose to survive 
and thrive. The holy well is a bit tucked away, but if we head up this steep side street, Victory 
Hill, we should be able to find it. The Victory Inn is a clear nod to Admiral Lord Nelson’s 
flagship HMS Victory. This reflects the deep maritime heritage of the village and its location 
guarding a strategically important estuary. While it can be easy to miss, a little 
door and a plaque on the wall marks the   spot. It is a scheduled monument and is 
believed to date from the sixth century, though the wellhouse and arch over it are 
from a later period, likely the 15th century. Commercial road served as the village’s trade hub,   directly linking the upper section 
to the harbour. Several houses along this road are grade two listed due to their 
significant architectural and historical value. St. Mawes has transformed throughout its history,   evolving from a medieval religious 
site into an important fishing town, then a significant political force and 
ultimately a beloved tourist destination. We’ll talk about the 1540s, Henry VIII, and the 
castle when we get into the grounds of the fort. However, in 1563, it was granted the status 
of a borough by Elizabeth I. An extraordinary move that allowed it to return two members 
of parliament. This political significance, disproportionate to its size and population, 
was likely a strategic manoeuvre by the Tudor monarchy. Over the centuries, some of these 
towns, like St. Mawes saw their populations shrink dramatically, but they retained the right 
to send two MPs to the House of Commons. Because the number of voters was so low, it was easy for a 
wealthy landowner or a powerful family to own the borough. This patron would essentially nominate 
the MPs, and the few voters would be influenced or outright bribed to vote for the patron’s 
chosen candidates. The MPs elected were not truly representing the people of the area, but were in 
the “pocket” of the patron. In St. Mawes case, the borough was essentially a “pocket borough” of 
its patron, the Marquis of Buckingham. The system was seen as deeply corrupt and unfair. While 
major industrial cities like Manchester and   Birmingham had no representation in Parliament, a 
tiny depopulated town like St Mawes had two seats. This disproportionate representation was a major 
rally cry for parliamentary reformers. The term rotten came to symbolise not only the decay of 
the physical borough but also the corruption and decay of the electoral system itself. 
The system of rotten boroughs was finally abolished by the Great Reform Act of 1832, 
which disenfranchised St. Mawes and many other similar constituencies, reallocating the 
seats to the more populated industrial towns. We just passed a side road called Church 
Hill. Let’s pop back up to the church. A simple chapel would have once stood alongside 
the holy well. For centuries, it served the local community. However, like many religious 
sites during periods of historical upheaval, it was eventually abandoned during the 
reign of Elizabeth I. For quite a time,   the villages of St. Mawes had to make a journey 
to the parish church of St. Just in Roseland for their services. On December 5th 1884, the 
doors of this magnificent Anglican church   opened. Designed in the elegant early English 
style by Edwin Hicks, this grade two-listed building stands as a testament to Victorian 
craftsmanship. Constructed from locally sourced stone with striking granite facings, it 
spire a familiar sight against the Cornish sky. The interior is very much in the Victorian style 
with original fittings made from pitch pine. This includes the pews with their shaped ends, The pulpit with its blind treefoil arcading And the octagonal granite font. Many of the stained glass 
windows tell the story of St. Mawes.   Others commemorate local notable figures. The village also has a Catholic church, which 
sadly, we didn’t make it to on our walk-in tour. As we continue through the village, 
historical buildings dot the landscape,   offering glimpses into the past. Earlier, we 
walked past the old courthouse on Marine Parade,   a whitewashed building standing as a 
tangible link to St. Mawes’ civic history, having been used for memorial 
courts in the 17th century. Looking out over Tavern Beach, the low tide 
reveals areas of sand and rockpools. The boat is returning from Falmouth. I believe there 
are two identical vessels serving this route. We are now walking along Lower Castle Road. 
As the name suggests, St. Mawes Castle is   at the top of this incline, and we’ll head 
up there now. Along the beach, jutting out, you may be able to spot the sun lounging area 
of the Tresanton Hotel. You may also notice the Cornish flag blowing in the wind, also known as 
the St. Piran’s flag. It is a white cross on a black background. It symbolises the Cornish 
patron saint of the tin miners, St. Perin. Perched on a headland, the castle is 
one of the most magnificent historical   landmarks in the area. A testament to Tudor 
military engineering. It is looked after by English heritage. You can find out all the 
information about visiting and tickets here. St. Mawes Castle was constructed between 
1540 and 1542 under the direction of Thomas Treffry as part of King Henry VIII’s 
large-scale coastal defence program. This program was a direct response 
to England’s political isolation   following Henry’s break with Rome and the 
potential threat of invasion from a new alliance between France and the Holy Roman Empire. The strategic value of the Fal estuary had 
been recognised earlier, with a local dignitary petitioning the king to protect the area in 1537. 
The result was the construction of St. Mawes, designed to work in tandem with Pendennis 
Castle, which is on the opposite headland, creating crossfires across the anchorage to sink 
any approaching enemy ships. Architecturally, St. Mawes Castle is unique. Its distinctive 
cloverleaf design with a four-story central tower and three round bastions sets 
it apart from other Henrician forts. It is also one of the most elaborately decorated 
of Henry VIII’s fortresses, featuring intricate carvings of sea monsters and gargoyles, as well 
as Latin inscriptions praising the king and his son Edward VI. This decorative flair reflects 
the power and prestige of the Tudor monarchy, blending defensive strength with a refined 
sense of style. This architectural design is a crucial point of distinction from 
its more rugged counterpart, Pendennis. Though built for a full-scale invasion,   the expected French attack of 
the 1540s never materialised. The Spanish Armada of 1588 
sailed past without incident,   and subsequent Spanish attempts in 
1596 and 97 were foiled by bad weather. Its most significant moment of conflict 
came during the English Civil War,   where it served as a royalist stronghold. 
However, in a stark contrast to the six-month siege of Pendennis Castle across the water, the 
captain of St. Mawes, Major Hannibal Bonython, surrendered the fort to Parliamentarian forces 
in 1646 without a single shot being fired. The Parliamentarians then used St.Mawes captured guns 
against Pendennis. This event demonstrates the castle’s strategic importance on paper, but also 
reveals the human element of its history, where a peaceful surrender, perhaps due to the captain’s 
sympathies, were favoured over a violent conflict. The castle continued to be garrisoned with updated   defences for the Napoleonic Wars as well as 
a lookout post during the two World Wars, highlighting its enduring strategic location 
even after its Tudor design became outdated. In 1956, the fort was no longer needed 
because rockets had replaced coast artillery, and it was passed to the state in recognition 
of its exceptional historical importance.    Few Henrician artillery forts are so complete and 
so able to tell the tale of Henry’s vision. After exploring the castle and taking in 
the panoramic views, it’s almost time for   us to catch our boat across to Falmouth. The journey back to the harbour can be a chance   to appreciate the finer details of the village 
and its surroundings. For those with more time, a longer, more scenic walk to St. 
Just in Roseland is a popular option. Many of the waterfront buildings that now serve 
as holiday accommodation or shops were once fish stores, smokers, and chandlers where coal 
and other supplies were bought in by coasters. Coasters are small shallow draft merchant ships 
used for transporting cargo along a coastline. By the 1840s, the stone harbour pier had 
deteriorated, leading to a significant decline in trade. To revive the port, a new pier was built 
in 1854, followed by a seawall and parapet a few years later. This strategic investment aimed to 
restore the port’s commercial viability. However, the fortunes of the fishing industry changed in 
the 20th century as pilchard stocks declined. This decline led to a decrease in commercial 
fishing boats and an increase in leisure and   sailing crafts, transforming the village 
into a popular destination for boating and relaxation. Although the harbour’s 
purpose shifted, it continued to thrive. We are ready to board the ferry to Falmouth, 
which we pre-booked on this website. It will give you all the information, times, and prices. 
This short 20-minute crossing is more than just transport. It offers a new perspective on 
the village and its history. Beyond the quay, the seafront offers various attractions. St. 
Mawes boasts two main beaches. Tavern Beach, which we’ve seen, and Summer’s Beach, 
which is ideal for paddling, sunbathing,   and rock pooling at low tide. Summer’s Beach 
even features a pontoon during the summer, making it a popular spot for swimming and 
other water activities. The calm, clear waters also make the harbour perfect for kayaking and 
paddleboarding, with gear and boats available to   hire from the harbour beach. For those seeking 
a taste of contemporary luxury, establishments like the Idle Rocks on the seafront are renowned 
for their fine dining and exquisite local produce. Before modern road networks dominated 
transport, the Fal Estuary, rivers and quays formed the vital arteries of local life, 
with the St. Mawes to Falmouth crossing   being a key link. Good afternoon, folks. Welcome 
aboard. Just a brief safety announcement. We are  licensed by the Maritime Coast Guard Agency to 
carry 100 passengers and two crew, with enough jackets and safety equipment on board to do 
so. In the unlikely event of an emergency, what we require you to do is remain seated. Remain 
calm and please wait for further instructions from the rest of the crew. Before 1878, the journey 
relied on the market boat, an open 30-foot sailing cutter that often took up to an hour, with 
passengers sometimes having to grab a “sweep”, that’s an oar to help in light winds. This arduous 
crossing was revolutionised in 1869 by the arrival of the steam era. Local mariners converted a 
small cutter into a rowing boat and towed it behind the steam vessel, “Wotton-a-Fal Steamer” 
forming the foundation of the St. Mawes steam tug and passenger boat company. This led to a growing 
fleet of steamboats, many of which were built in Falmouth at Cox Yard, continuously increasing 
in size and power to meet rising demand. Before the service transitioned to more efficient 
diesel engines in 1948, the core fleet had grown to four modern ferries. The postwar period was 
marked by drama and turbulent change. In 1967, the company changed ownership, resulting in a 
decade of instability and intense competition. This period marked the beginning of the 
infamous “ferry wars” as local families,   notably the Pill family, acquired old ferries and 
engaged in a heated trade rivalry with existing operators. The disputes became so intense that 
local fishermen and even policemen were involved   in trying to mediate the situation. Despite 
the conflict and multiple ownership changes, the Pill family eventually prevailed, taking 
ownership of the service and running it until 2003. Today, under the management of Cornwall 
Ferries Limited, the service has been modernised with major refits to the existing fleet and 
the introduction of new vessels built locally, ensuring the scenic crossing continues to be 
an essential part of the Fal River experience. We are now approaching Falmouth and its history 
is inexplicably linked to its magnificent natural harbour, the Carrick Roads. Reputed to be the 
third largest and deepest natural harbour in the world. Its strategic location near the 
mouth of the English Channel established it   as a critical international port from the moment 
the town was founded in the early 17th century by the Kiligrew family, overshadowed only by Henry 
VIII’s defensive structure, Pendennis Castle. For over 160 years, starting in 1689, Falmouth was 
the base for the Falmouth Packet Service, the vital branch of the post office responsible for 
carrying official mail, bullion, and passengers to and from the growing British Empire. After the 
packet era ended around 1851, the port adapted. Its maritime importance peaked again during the 
world wars as it served as a major naval base, a hub for convoy assembly and repair and the base 
for Operation Chariot. Critically, in 1943 and 44, the Fal estuary was a vital staging area 
embarking thousands of American troops for the D-Day landings. Today, Falmouth remains a 
thriving maritime centre with deep water docks, a modern shipbuilding industry, and the 
award-winning National Maritime Museum, Cornwall. Stepping off the ferry at Custom 
house Quay after a lovely ride,   we have around 1 hour to look around. So, 
this is by no means a full tour of Falmouth, but we’ll have a wander and see where it takes us. Straight away, we see some interesting 
history. The king’s pipe, the name given   to a furnace that was used to ceremoniously 
burn contraband seized from smugglers. We are now on Arwenack Street, just back from 
the harbour. The street takes its name from the magnificent Arwenack Manor House, which stands 
at the southern end. This was the ancient seat of the Kiligrew family, the powerful landowners 
who envisioned and founded Falmouth in the early 17th century. While fishing hamlets dotted the 
natural harbour, the actual inception of modern Falmouth lies squarely with Sir John Kiligrew. 
He had an entrepreneurial spirit and saw not just a natural harbour, but a blank canvas. He 
embarked on the ambitious project of founding a planned town. This wasn’t organic growth. This was 
deliberate creation, laying the groundwork for the streets and structures that would become Falmouth. 
This nascent settlement quickly gained prominence, drawing attention from the highest echelons 
of power. It was a testament to the Kiligrew’s foresight that in 1661, King Charles II himself 
bestowed a royal charter upon the burgeoning town, a declaration of significance that solidified 
Falmer’s place on the map and granted it the rights and privileges of a legitimate borough. To 
mark this new era and perhaps to further honour the crown, the iconic church of King Charles 
the Martyr was consecrated in 1665. Dedicated to the executed King Charles I, it stands as a 
beautiful architectural and historical landmark. We now move into Church Street, 
a historically rich thoroughfare.   On our left is “The Poly”, Royal 
Cornwall Polytechnic Society, an institution with a strong history in 
science and arts, famously where Alfred   Nobel first demonstrated nitroglycerine in 1865. 
On the right, where the young lady is busking, the building was remodelled and refronted in 
1867 to serve as the town’s general post office. Throughout its length, Church Street is lined   with a remarkable collection of 
historic and listed buildings. The street also features the distinctive facade of 
St. George’s Arcade, which began life in 1912 as St. George’s Hall. Falmouth’s first custom-built 
cinema and reportedly the second largest in the UK at the time. After being damaged by fire in 1948, 
it was converted into an indoor shopping arcade. We’ll take a walk up Kiligrew Street. During 
my research, I learned that Falmouth was the starting point of the Trafalgar Way, a famous 
271-mile historic route used in 1805 to rush the official dispatches containing news of the Battle 
of Trafalgar and the death of Admiral Lord Nelson from Falmouth to the Admiralty in London. The 
messenger, Lieutenant John Richards Lapenotière, arrived from HMS Pickle, landing at Falmouth 
on November 4th and immediately began his extraordinary non-stop journey by post-chaise 
express carriage. Following the main coaching road of the time, he stopped 21 times to 
change horses, managing to cover the entire distance in approximately 37 hours to deliver 
the momentous news to the British government. It is now marked by a series of 39 bronze plaques 
in towns and villages along the route. Here is Falmouth’s, on the wall in front of the library, 
commemorating the dedication of the naval officer and the importance of Falmouth. Trafalgar Way 
today serves as a national heritage trail. Of all the historic thoroughfares in 
Falmouth, the old high street holds the   deepest connection to the town’s origins. 
It was originally known as Ludgate Hill, but has been called the High Street for much 
of its history. In recent times, around 2009, local traders initiated a successful campaign to 
formally rename the section to Old High Street, distinguishing it from the main commercial 
street, Market Street and Church Street,   and highlighting its unique 
historic and independent character. Walking along the old high street today, you’ll 
find a mix of independent shops nestled in what are some of Falmouth’s oldest buildings. However, 
much of the street’s current layout is a result of catastrophe. The Great Fire of 1862 is one 
of Cornwall’s most significant recorded blazes, and the midsection of the street was destroyed. 
The subsequent rebuilding expanded the road, making the modern street an actual 10 
feet wider than it was before the fire. We need to hurry up now to catch 
the ferry back to St. Mawes from   the Prince of Wales quay, as our 
time in Falmouth is almost up. That’s the boat going now. Could 
have got on it. We’ve missed it. So, the boat goes to two locations from S Mawes 
to Custom House where we got off and it also there’s another boat that comes here to the 
Prince of Wales pier and we made our way back, but we were just 1 minute too late, and the 
boat is off, so it doesn’t go for another   hour from here. Whereas if we walk back to 
Custom House in the next half an hour there will be another boat back to St. So never 
mind. A little bit more walking to be done. We seem to have stumbled upon the Falmouth 
Food Festival held on the last bank holiday of May each year. It’s set right on the 
waterfront at the Church Street Car Park. This 4-day fiesta is a general celebration 
of all things Cornish. With free entry, you can graze on everything from gourmet 
street food to artisan treats to freshly   prepared seafood. Festival features 
live music, gin talks, wine tasting, and chef demonstrations. So, it’s a pretty cool 
place to come if you’re here at the end of May. This figure head known as Amy is believed to be 
from the RMS Amazon, an 1851 Royal Male paddle steamer. The Amazon was reportedly the largest 
timber steamship ever constructed at the time. After only a 2-day voyage, she sank in the 
Bay of Bisque in January 1852 following a fire. The final resting place is about 100 
miles southwest of the Isles of Silly. Amy has become a quirky and well-recognised 
piece of the town’s maritime history. Another interesting nautical fact is that Falmouth 
was the first landfall in the UK for HMS Beagle upon its return from the 5-year circumnavigation. 
The ship arrived in Falmouth late on October 2nd, 1836. Charles Darwin disembarked there and 
took the male coach to his family home in Shrewsbury. The Fitzroy barometer was installed 
at the old custom house on Arwenack Street in   1868 as part of his national storm warning 
system. The original was stolen years ago, but the granite housing remains. You may recall we 
sailed on the Beagle Channel last December as part of our Argentina adventures we shared earlier this 
year. So, anything to do with Fitzroy is always of interest to us. Right, we’re back at Customhouse 
Quay to catch the boat back to St. Mawes. This time, we’ll let you enjoy the 
sights and sounds narration-free as   we complete the final leg 
of this wonderful day out. Well, we’re back at St Mawes, and that’s the 
end of this video, and it’s also the end of this   travel series in Cornwall. What’s your favourite bit been? 
Polprerro probably, the cutest and tintagel for the views. I know they’ve been amazing. Yeah, 
Polperro was amazing. And the weather as well. We’ve been very lucky. Do check out all of other 
playlists, all the videos we’ve had from Cornwall and join us again on the channel for another 
series later in the year. Take care. Bye-bye now.

Today, we’re navigating the scenic, winding lanes of Cornwall to bring you to a truly hidden gem:
St Mawes! 🤩 Tucked away on the beautiful Roseland Peninsula, this village has a history as rich and dramatic as the Cornish coastline itself.

Our journey to St Mawes begins with its ancient, spiritual roots. Legend tells of an Irish saint who arrived in the 5th century, establishing a chapel and a holy well. You can still find the tucked-away, scheduled monument of the holy well today, a quiet nod to the earliest beginnings of St Mawes. The village’s main thoroughfare, once described in 1880 as a “long straggling street, fronting the water,” speaks to its organic growth as a fishing hamlet.
Today, this street is lined with quirky gift boutiques and art galleries, blending its rustic charm with modern-day appeal.

The village’s most imposing historical feature is undoubtedly St Mawes Castle 🏰. Built between 1540 and 1542 under Henry VIII, it was a key part of his coastal defence program, designed to work in tandem with Pendennis Castle across the estuary to create a devastating crossfire against invaders. Architecturally, the castle is unique—its distinctive clover-leaf design and elaborate carvings of sea monsters and Latin inscriptions make it one of Henry VIII’s most decorated fortresses. While it never saw the full-scale invasion it was built for, its strategic importance endured through the English Civil War and up to the World Wars, highlighting its enduring location. Today, looked after by English Heritage and offers panoramic views that are simply breathtaking.
But the drama of St Mawes extends beyond military history! In 1563, Queen Elizabeth I granted it the status of a borough, allowing it to return two members to Parliament. Over the centuries, despite its population shrinking dramatically, it retained this right. This created a “rotten borough,” essentially owned by a wealthy patron—in St Mawes’ case, the Marquess of Buckingham. This corrupt system, where a tiny, depopulated village had two seats while major industrial cities had none, became a major rallying cry for parliamentary reform. The system was finally abolished by the Great Reform Act of 1832, disenfranchising St Mawes and reallocating its seats to more populated towns.
St Mawes has perfected the art of the charming Cornish seaside escape. Beyond the castle’s history and the stories of corruption, you’ll find a tranquil hub for water-based activities. The calm, clear waters of the harbour are perfect for kayaking and paddleboarding. You can explore its two main beaches, Tavern Beach and Summers Beach, ideal for sunbathing and rock pooling. And don’t miss the ferry to Falmouth! This short, scenic crossing offers a new perspective on the village and a vital link to the historic, deep-water port across the estuary.
From its ancient origins and powerful Tudor fortress to its political infamy, St Mawes is a village that continually evolves while preserving its incredible past.

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35 Comments

  1. To rewatch any of our Cornish Series, head to our playlist. https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL7ZS1Ml0SItTPfIjd2KikV_WwvsC8dBSi

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  2. Wonderful video with fantastic views especially castle views, coast, white buildings, church & etc so lovely ❤ past history is so interesting for I'm privileged to see & learn a lot from your blog. Thank u both for all good vibes & valuable time you share 😊

  3. Your Cornwall series is fantastic. Thank you for showing us so much of this beautiful area, I doubt there is any where with more picturesque towns and wonderful sea views. You did a great job with the framing, editing, and narration, which added greatly to our enjoyment.

  4. ❤😊 thank you.
    I have been missing your night time strolls though.🇨🇦
    🇨🇦

  5. Thank you for all your hard work so we can view these beautiful places. Your channel is superb and I think one of the best in the travel genre on You Tube.

  6. what a wonderful video ..love how you guys never fight or argue ,,never take a wrong turn or disagree …every thing is always smooth sailing …just outstanding filming and voice over …!!

  7. You're such a wonderful tour guide! Sad to see this series come to an end but I know you'll have another enchanting video soon ❤❤❤❤

  8. So sad to see your Cornwall series come to an end, I've enjoyed every bit of it so much! Looking forward to where you'll take us next!

  9. I have enjoyed this series on Cornwall so much! Love all the fishing village vibe of so many of the towns, as well as the historical buildings and history you so graciously relate to us as we go. Also, once again I want to mention how much I love that you turn the camera to show the windows of the shops here and there, which really gives one the feeling of "being" there and desire to explore those shops for ourselves! It's impossible to have a favorite place from all your videos and series but Cornwall is certainly in the top five! Cheers!

  10. Thank you Will/Simon on the interesting series of Cornwall l enjoyed every part of it but this particular episode really didn't impress
    St Mawes to me was not very interesting I much prefered Falmouth it was much more interesting and felt more time here rather than St Mawes would have been far better..but that's me
    Thanks again guy's well done
    Cheers 🍻
    Tony 👬 🇦🇺

  11. Great series – loved it. Thanks again for sharing your days out and about with us and for the informative and interesting narrative.

  12. Fabulous video. The shoreline with it's nice homes are so picturesque. The hilly streets are so nice. I truly enjoyed Falmouth. It seemed very lively. Thanks so much. I have enjoyed this series so much.😊

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