[Travel Japan] 【神山町】古民家B&Bになった先祖の造り酒屋を訪ねる | Visiting B&B On y va, Kamiyama, Tokushima
Bessie Head’s When the Rain Clouds Gather
has finally been translated and published. I thought I’m finally ready to go to Kamiyama. To the place that used to be Yokoyama Liquor Store In May 2025, I achieved the translation and publication of Bessie Head’s When Rain Clouds Gather. I finally felt as if I had been freed from the burden on my heart. I thought now was the time to go to Kamiyama Town. I came to Kamiyama-cho for the first time in 11 years. I finally met Ikuko, the owner of B&B Oniva (formerly Yokoyama Liquor Store). It is an old folk house that was my ancestors’ home. Ikuko-san will take me to her field in her little truck. In the past, roads weren’t as neatly paved as it is now. I remember driving endlessly down roads like this in my father’s car. When I was a child,
I thought, “Kamiyama is so far away.” Ikuko Saito from On y va Here you will find fields, chicken coops, firewood, etc. Ikuko comes here every day to take care of the chickens. Knowing the individuality of each chicken Ah, hello. The chicken is attached to her. Chicken society has its own complexities too. Drawing water from the mountain Apparently this mountain and land was purchased from someone other than the Yokoyama family. It’s an old tobacco drying shed that’s being renovated
to make it livable. Speaking of tobacco drying sheds,
they also appear in “When Rain Clouds Gather” Apparently they are growing soybeans There was a lot of illegal dumping, and they cleaned it all up. She also grows rice It seems that water is drawn from the first one to the second, third, and so on. This girl puppy is Dragon. She came to her home just three days ago. To be a watchdog to protect chickens from small animals in the mountains but she’s still a puppy. She doesn’t know anything about the outside world and
is excited about her first time in the mountains. Apparently they also build log houses. They used wood of a size that they can make ourselves. Above this is the water source that draws water for the rice fields. As they gradually cleared away the fallen trees and soil,
Water has started to flow in what was once a dried-up stream. To make the mountains fertile You have to take care of it Little by little, we will make the forest healthier You will be able to drink water steadily even without rain. While observing and exploring the mountains,
following in the footsteps of people from long ago Little by little, she creates a rich mountain Dragon-chan’s first mountain adventure It was so much fun that she ended up in a small stream and couldn’t climb out. She’s a scaredy-dog and doesn’t cry at all, but she makes a little noise. It’s so cute though Can it become a watchdog that can scare away wild animals? Even Ikuko can’t help but adore a puppy. She’s not a pet, she’s a guard dog, so
she’s going to be trained at dog school. It’s her first big adventure, so everything seems fun. It looked like a lot of fun.
I wonder if this is how they learn about mountain life. But this was a sign of things to come. Apparently they use lumber from trees that were here. The abundant resources found in Japan’s mountains are not being fully utilized Are there various reasons behind this? The abundant plants and trees aren’t fully utilized I hope it will become a good cycle for both nature and the economy. Carrots, peanuts, taro Ikuko’s partner,
Valerie He comes from a small village and is used to farming, but
he also seems to be an amazing person who can do DIY with ease. He’s perfect for mountain life. This is a snail she caught in a rice field. A calcium snack for chickens The chickens seem to like this I also tried my hand at being a snail craftsperson (no video) The chicken coop is open during the day The chickens live freely, There seems to be a lot going on in the chicken world In the evening, they take roll call and enter the hut. It looks like a place where bamboo charcoal is made. Washing clothes with water containing bamboo charcoal This is an old wisdom that reduces sewage pollution. Dragon-chan wants to go to the mountains I went to a local restaurant for the first time. The owner I happened to talk to He happily told me how my grandfather, who was the principal of his elementary school, treated him well. Even now, when he passes by On y va,
he remembers it and his heart warms. This town still holds many memories of the Yokoyama family. Return to Oniva I looked at the house again It’s a strange feeling When I was little, this was a liquor store. Large counter and old cash register And the alcohol on the shelves The large old pillars, beams, and rafters are
of fine construction from the late Edo period. It appears that extensive reinforcement work has been carried out, but
the basic structure has been carefully preserved. Because it is a very valuable building during construction Apparently, carpenters
even came out of their way to participate in the workshop to learn more. The bistro-style kitchen is located in In the past, it was a raised area and
a living room for my grandparents. My grandmother said that it was originally a sake brewer workers’ room . This second floor is a storage space that hasn’t been used for decades. It was like a hidden room, accessed by a closet staircase ladder. Now it has an open mezzanine floor like this. The beautiful fireplace and furnishings are very tasteful. I wonder if they have European antiques too?
It’s wonderful how they create a new harmony with the old house. Actually, when I was little, I didn’t know there was a second floor on this side of the house. It wasn’t until I was in the upper grades of elementary school that I came to know I saw it in a dream So I asked my father and he said, “Yes, there is” (laughs). So I asked my father to show it to me. There were some really old looking things, and
I felt like it was an adventure. My grandparents passed away over 20 years ago, and
my father spent many years cleaning up our ancestral home. I think it was really hard work. This ship’s chest of drawers was originally there. Apparently my father gave her some very old things.
There were many historically valuable items. Apparently, ship chests were used from the Edo period to the Meiji period, but I wonder if this is one of them. Ikuko came to bake Valerie’s special bread. I’m looking forward to tomorrow morning Apparently they also grow wheat in Kamiyama
(though this was probably something different). An old house that used to be located in the mountains further upper mountain It was relocated a long time ago and has been expanded over the years. This area used to be a liquor store, but now it’s a B&B. Where the old toilets were, there is now a clean bathroom for guests now. In fact, the building in the back is much larger, and there are many things in the garden, including a storehouse,
making it an amazing house. The back is the owner’s private space now. I remember this iron pillar well, it’s been there for a long time. This is the first time I’ve stayed alone at the former Yokoyama residence, which has been so beautifully restored. Grandpa and Grandma,
you don’t have to come and see me, haha good night good morning This skylight was cut into the roof. It used to be an attic so I didn’t know it was like this. Delicious homemade bread The eggs were laid by Ikuko’s chickens. I made my fried eggs in a professional kitchen, haha On y va’s proud “Forest Sauna” Apparently this was the mountain of the Yokoyama family. I later heard from my father that the mountain was purchased by my grandfather, who was a school principal. My father also had to help with the mountain work. Hard labour! There are many signs that trees were cut down and maintained in the past, but they have remained untouched for many years. Then they took care of it and use the cut timber to create a sauna. It seems to be very popular with guests now. A fire is lit with wood and water is infused with natural herbs. It’s a luxurious time in the mountains with no one around. Apparently, a lot of cedar trees were planted there in the past. Forestry was a good business at the time. My father said that’s why my grandfather bought the mountain. Mountains are hard to maintain You really need to settle down and live a full-fledged rural life. Living in the mountains in the truest sense is not easy, and
a half-hearted “relocation” won’t cut it. My father left the mountains when he was a student, went to college, and got a job in Tokyo. It was difficult to maintain such a large mountain. By the way, this is a water bath. It feels so good marshmallow♡ My grandfather bought a mountain and planted trees. I bet my grandfather never dreamed that this place would become a sauna. A mountain is only beautiful if it is well maintained. I got back home to On y va and took a break,
then went for lunch. Now there are a few more restaurants within walking distance. I’ll try a new place This is a bakery The Food Hub Project is a place to connect Kamiyama agriculture to the next generation. Lunch featuring mainly local ingredients You can buy fresh ingredients at the store, and
at Kamaya you can enjoy carefully prepared dishes like this. I’ve been coming Kamiyama since I was a baby, but
I never knew Kamiyama was such a bountiful place. Now, at 48, I feel like I’m finally experiencing it on my own. Amazing lunch course menu Local plum soda With the help of many people, they are able to provide wonderful meals. Menu explanation Went home and took a rest Went out by car again There were no other cars in the parking lot, so
there was probably no one there. Head to Amagoi falls, one of Kamiyama’s famous spots. It’s about a 25-minute walk from the parking lot to the waterfall. There are several waterfalls to see along the way. There is a walking trail, but it can be quite steep in places. Comfortable shoes are a must Just behind this is Amagoi Falls. On the left is Odaki Falls, with a drop of 27 meters. On the right is Medaki Falls, with a drop of 45 meters. A very elegant and spectacular waterfall
It is a sacred place that has been treasured since ancient times. This is actually my second time here, but
it’s the first time I’ve come alone. It was a luxurious time with no one around. I came back to town Actually, something terrible happened today. Ikuko’s puppy Dragon escaped into the mountains this morning. She went missing and Ikuko and her friends have been searching for her ever since. There are small animals in the mountains and even puppies can be attacked. I guess she enjoyed going to the mountains together yesterday (´;ω;｀) The search continues into the night We had planned to have dinner together, but
that didn’t happen. I’m worried about Dragon-chan, but
it’s definitely dangerous for me to go into the mountains at night… I went to a new restaurant.
I was so happy to find such a wonderful place in my neighborhood. Enjoyed a quiet and delicious meal I’m back home I’m only staying for two nights so I’ll be back tomorrow My grandparents were teachers and ran a retail liquor store. My grandfather passed away when I was a university student,
and my grandmother passed away about 20 years ago. The youngest child with two older sisters, her father is the eldest. My great-grandfather, who started the sake brewery,
passed away before I was born, so I never met him. I don’t know exactly, but
it dates back to the end of the Edo period or the Meiji period. Apparently, many people lived here during the war.
Tokushima City was also bombed. About my ancestors, the people who came and went here
, my father, my mother, me, and my brothers. I think this house remembers all of its history. Times are changing, and people who choose to live with their families while caring for the mountains It must have decreased quite a bit. That’s why we need to enter a new phase Ikuko, who says she grew up in the mountains in Osaka,
has incredible vitality. She has knowledge and is constantly updating it, and
above all else, he respects the mountains and loves the people of the town. She loves living here more than anything, seems truly happy, and talks endlessly about her overflowing ideas and thoughts. She has extensive experience in Europe and respects food and nature. There are few people who love Kamiyama Town as much, enjoy life as much, and are filled with happiness. It’s amazing that such an amazing person has inherited the ancestral home that was in danger of being demolished. It’s really a joy and happiness for me too With love and love for homes and mountains,
people who are excited about life will revive it. I’m happy to meet such an amazing person Little Dragon the puppy was finally found in the mountains just before 10 p.m.! She was a little kid who knew nothing of the world, yet she managed to run away for a full 13 hours. I’m so glad she was safe. Ikuko-san and Dragon-chan came the next morning. It was hard to find because it didn’t make any noise at all. When I pointed my smartphone at it to take a photo,
she was so surprised by the smartphone and barked for the first time. Grow up to be a dependable watchdog. Today, Kamiyama Town is visited as a successful case study in regional revitalization, attracting many people to move there. Ikuko loves and respects Kamiyama— she seems like a person beyond compare. I was afraid to meet her back then,
but I’m glad I finally got to see her after all these years. I gave the book to her because it is one of the most precious things in my life. Japanese translation of Bessie Head’s When Rain Clouds Gather. She seemed pleased with it. After all these years, such a day has come.
I’m really happy. Apparently people in Kamiyama often talk about the Yokoyama family. It seemed like a lot of memories of my ancestors were alive. Tsuzura with the Yokoyama family crest Apparently it was discovered nearby. It looks like it was used to make tea. Check out the “Kamiyama Town History” On the page for Jinryo Elementary School, which was established in the Meiji era The name of my grandfather, who was a principal, was there. The names of sponsors from that time are lined up on the ceiling of the old Yoriiza entertainment hall. The name “Yokoyama Liquor Store” is written in large letters. The cedar wood of this building Apparently they use trees planted by my grandfather. I can’t believe I’m helping people in this way. It may not have been what you imagined, but I
‘m glad you’re a grandpa. Even if the house is in the hands of others.
I have ancestors who are part of Kamiyama’s history. I realized that I myself am connected to that memory. A linear rain band has arrived.
Returning to Tokyo thank you
徳島県名西郡神山町。
わたしの父の生家は昔の造り酒屋「横山酒店」
今では、人手に渡りB&Bオニヴァになっています。
祖父母の思い出が残る建物ですが、オニヴァになって初めて訪れました。
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#神山町
#kamiyama
#オニヴァ
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#diy
0:00 intro
01:07 神山へKamiyama～郁子さんの畑
14:57 横山酒店だったB&Bオニヴァ B&B On y va
17:39 breakfast
18:19 森のサウナ sauna
20:49 かま屋 kamaya
22:32 雨乞の滝 Amagoi Falls
27:16 めし処 萬や 山びこ Yamabiko
27:38 B&Bオニヴァ B&B On y va
29:29 最後に
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ベッシー・ヘッド『雨雲の集まるとき』2025年5月刊行
https://rainclouds-pub.stores.jp/items/67dd3c60b5a95931e1ccabf8
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