【秘境温泉街】肘折温泉「丸屋旅館」宿泊レビュー｜山形のカルデラ温泉【出羽三山シリーズ第1弾】 | Hidden Hot Spring Town in Japan
Northern Yamagata Prefecture This is RYO. Starting today, I’ll present a four-part Dewa Sanzan series. Dewa Sanzan lies in northern Yamagata Prefecture, the collective name for the sacred mountains Haguro, Gassan, and Yudono. At Haguro we pray for blessings in this world, at Gassan we experience the afterlife, and at Yudono we receive new life— a journey of rebirth. It has long been revered and is a very sacred place. In the Edo period it was called “Ise in the West, Oku in the East,” and was said to be a once-in-a-lifetime pilgrimage. I’d always wanted to make the pilgrimage myself, and this time I finally took on the challenge. For this first episode, we’re in the northeast of Mt. Gassan, a therapeutic hot-spring town that flourished as the approach to Gassan: Hijiori Onsen. Hijiori Onsen was formed by volcanic activity about 10,000 years ago, a hot-spring town developed atop a depression called the Hijiori Caldera. At first glance it looks like a quiet basin forming a rural settlement, but it’s actually an active volcano with a magma chamber even today. The springs bubbling up from that geothermal activity are known as “warming waters,” with iron-rich cloudy water. Some inns have continued since the Meiji era, and the town is steeped in a nostalgic atmosphere. Today I’ll introduce a long-established ryokan founded in 1868 here in Hijiori. In a space that feels like time travel, we’ll be soothed by the famous spring and savor plenty of seasonal mountain cuisine representing Yamagata. Please enjoy to the end. When heading to Yamagata or Akita, the Tohoku-Chuo Expressway is convenient. Some sections are toll-free, making it very comfortable. Mt. Gassan has appeared on the left. Magnificent scenery Up ahead is the Hijiori Kibō Ōhashi Bridge. Go down this bridge to reach Hijiori Onsen. When a 2012 landslide threatened to cut off the town, to overcome the crisis for the hot-spring district, Japan’s largest steel rigid-frame viaduct opened in just about two years. This earthquake-resistant bridge stretches 240 meters, overlooking the town, and has become a symbol of Hijiori Onsen. We’ve arrived. There’s free parking in the town, which is handy for sightseeing. First, let’s stroll around the hot-spring town. Hijiori Onsen developed along the Dozan River. This is Komatsu-buchi, the remains of a lava dome formed by volcanic activity. This liquor shop apparently dates back to the Meiji era. I can see the “Hoteya” signboard. They sell Hijiori’s specialty, Hoteyi Manjū. Such a peaceful hot-spring town. This is the former post office from the early Shōwa period. Look closely: the window grilles are all postal marks—very stylish. After the crank before the post office, you’ll find the street of today’s inn. Here is the ryokan we’ll stay at, but the full tour will come a bit later. There’s a lovely shrine right in front of the inn,
so let’s take a look. Climb the mountain path behind the shrine and you’ll find Jizō-kura, said to be where an old monk with a broken elbow trained, but since there have been bear sightings, I recommend going in a large group if you visit. There’ve been daily news reports of bear incidents, so we’ll skip it this time. They say Hijiori Onsen has 17 springs in total. If you tour the sights while solving quizzes, you can win gift vouchers worth about 3,000 yen. There’s a Spring Park up ahead—let’s go. A beautiful waterfall has come into view. As its name suggests, this park features springs bubbling up one after another. The water is 65°C, so better not touch it. Is this a UFO? This isn’t a UFO— inside here, hot water gushes up vigorously. In the past the Dozan River often flooded due to sediment outflow, so this dam was built after the war as an erosion-control dam. Young men and women also took part in construction, and many couples were formed, so there’s even a “First Love Footbath.” It’s held only on limited days, but there are magical night illumination events here as well. We took a casual walk around first— how did you like it? It’s a small town, but with its quiet, retro streets and even a quirky park, the atmosphere made me feel like I was in a movie. Next, in this wonderful town, let’s enjoy the hot springs and the cuisine. Here is the inn we’ll feature today. Maruya Ryokan, a member of the Association to Preserve Japan’s Secluded Hot Springs. Maruya Ryokan was founded in the first year of Meiji (1868), and this signboard has apparently been used since then. A warm light welcoming travelers— looks promising again. Let’s head inside. A building that has counted 150 years, the warmth of wood and retro ambience are irresistible. There’s even a traditional paper umbrella at the entrance. As always, I’ll show the facilities, room, dinner, and breakfast in that order. Old Japanese architecture really sparks the spirit of adventure. Records from those days still remain, quietly telling us its 150 years of history. This is the lounge. A nostalgic room where an old clock echoes. It looks like there’s a bath further in, so let’s go. This is the indoor bath made with Japanese cypress. There’s also another bath called Hiba-no-Yu, using Aomori hiba wood, and an open-air bath. I’ll show them later as well, and there’s a free private bath, so you can fully enjoy the famous spring. All rooms are non-smoking, with a designated smoking area. It kind of feels like a ninja house. A small library wrapped in the warmth of wood, lined with books and magazines about Yamagata. You can quietly learn about the region mid-journey. Now let’s head to the room. Our room is on the third floor. Even the creaking floorboards are part of the inn’s charming character. Today we’re staying in “Gassan,” a room with its own private bath. As you’d expect of a ryokan, there’s an anteroom. This used to be three separate rooms combined into one luxurious layout. Let’s look through from the front room. The room key has a palm-sized Hijiori kokeshi doll, so cute and heart-warming. And Hijiori’s specialty Hoteyi Manjū. These are discount tickets for the public bath in front of the inn, where you can enjoy a spring different from Maruya’s. There are also a town map and event information, bus timetables, and more, showing their thoughtful care for travelers. And here’s a room looking straight down onto the tsubo-niwa courtyard, somehow literary, isn’t it? Let’s see the bedroom. A very calm space, yet it continues seamlessly with the living area, so it feels open. There are two queen-size mattresses. This “Gassan” room uses carefully selected materials for the ceiling and walls. Charcoal is also laid inside the walls and ceiling, releasing negative ions for a relaxing effect. Truly a special suite. At the back is the in-room bath, and this is the relaxation room for resting after a soak. The pairing of bamboo chairs and tatami feels nice, letting you savor the afterglow of the bath. Now let’s peek at the in-room bath. A fragrant cypress bath lavishly using Aomori hiba, each dip fills the room with warmth and aroma. The soft light filtering through the sturdy lattice makes the healing moment even richer. The spring type is sodium-chloride / sodium bicarbonate hot spring. It contains no sulfur, so there’s almost no smell, and the iron content gives the water a gentle cloudiness. With its high salt concentration and superb moisturizing power, it’s also called “warming water.” Bicarbonate softens keratin, bringing an anti-aging effect that smooths the skin. Rich metasilicic acid adds moisture, so it’s also known as a beauty bath. Furthermore, carbon dioxide expands blood vessels, so it’s said to help with cuts, burns, rheumatism, neuralgia, and skin diseases, among many other indications. Being able to enjoy such fine hot water in your room is the height of bliss. Of course it’s free-flowing from the source, but without stirring and adding a little water, it’s too hot to enter. In winter though, it would feel incredible. Lastly, the washroom and toilet. These, too, have a warm wooden interior, and everything is spotless. Enjoy Yamagata’s wild vegetable dishes Now, let’s go to dinner. Dinner is served in this spacious private room. Here’s the menu. Tempura, grilled fish, steak, mountain vegetables— plus imoni stew: a full course of Yamagata specialties. If you stay in the Gassan room, the steak is upgraded to A5-grade Yamagata wagyu. This area is part of the Mogami river system, so wild ayu sweetfish are famous too. Let’s light the stove and dig into the imoni. Yamagata actually ranks number one in Japan for warabi bracken production. These are akebi shoots. Eating rare mountain-vegetable dishes is one charm of Yamagata. The tempura is brought out freshly fried, piping hot and fluffy. Since we’re in Yamagata, imoni is a must. Now for the Yamagata beef! You grill it yourself, so cook it to your liking and enjoy it sizzling hot. Nice generous portions, too. Incredibly tender. I can’t stop eating the Tsuyahime rice served in the wooden tub. And for the finale, we have natto-jiru, another Yamagata local dish. Truly a meal that lets you taste all of Yamagata— the perfect words for this dinner. Yamagata’s home cooking is unpretentious yet deeply flavorful, and it carries a warmth that feels like family. For travelers, each dish is a special way to feel the local lifestyle and character. Now let’s heal our travel fatigue in a private bath. These private baths are free, and you can use them anytime if available. To savor a famous spring in a wide tub with no one around— hot-spring lovers will be thrilled. I came for some morning drone shooting during my walk. What a beautiful day. The morning mist over the town is lovely, too. At Hijiori Onsen, a morning market is held from around 5:30 a.m. You can buy fresh greens like molokhiya and Malabar spinach at bargain prices. All this for just 1,000 yen. After a refreshing morning bath, let’s have breakfast. The menu board is clear and helpful. This is piping-hot tofu in soy milk. Yamagata’s famous tama-konnyaku, with Malabar spinach and red kogomi fiddleheads. Another delicious clean plate today. This time we visited Hijiori Onsen and introduced the long-established Maruya Ryokan. This hot-spring town has deep ties to the Dewa Sanzan faith, cherished and preserved by locals and travelers alike, and it retains a truly old-fashioned atmosphere. The historic inn that has continued since Meiji is like time travel itself. Beyond the polite service, you can feel real warmth and kindness— a wonderfully comfortable stay. In such a beautiful place, we were healed by a hot spring nurtured by a volcano, and enjoyed hearty local cuisine. I hope you’ll visit at least once. Next time: Dewa Sanzan Series Part 2 Michelin Green Guide Japan 3-star award “Stay tuned!”
今回から全4回にわたってお届けする「出羽三山シリーズ」。
第一弾は、カルデラの真上に佇む秘境の湯治場、肘折温泉です。
レトロな街並み散策、老舗「丸屋旅館」の客室レビュー、温泉分析、
さらに山形の旬を味わう山菜料理まで、じっくりとご紹介します。
【出羽三山シリーズ予定】
第1弾 肘折温泉（本動画）
第2弾 羽黒山参拝
第3弾 月山の御膝元 志津温泉
第4弾 月山＆湯殿山参拝
生まれ変わりの旅といわれる出羽三山巡りの魅力を、温泉と料理を交えてご紹介していく予定です。
ぜひ続編も楽しみにしていてください。
This marks the beginning of our four-part Dewa Sanzan Series.
The first episode features Hijiori Onsen, a hidden hot spring village perched atop a caldera.
We’ll stroll through its retro streets, review a guest room at the historic Maruya Ryokan, analyze the hot spring waters, and savor seasonal mountain vegetable cuisine from Yamagata.
Dewa Sanzan Series Lineup
Episode 1: Hijiori Onsen (this video)
Episode 2: Haguro-san pilgrimage
Episode 3: Shizu Onsen at the foot of Mt. Gassan
Episode 4: Pilgrimage to Mt. Gassan & Mt. Yudono
Known as a “journey of rebirth,” the Dewa Sanzan pilgrimage offers profound spiritual and cultural experiences, which we will explore together with onsen and local cuisine.
Stay tuned for the upcoming episodes!
【今回の宿泊先】
肘折温泉 丸屋旅館（山形県最上郡大蔵村）
源泉100％ひのき箱湯付客室で過ごす「グランドルーム月山」45.42平米
ベットルーム＋リラックスルーム6帖＋半露天檜風呂・レインシャワー付
２名１泊夕朝食付き：73,570円（税込）※諸割引含む
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0:40 出羽三山とは
2:42 肘折希望大橋
3:43 温泉街散策
7:23 旅館のご紹介はここからです
8:00 館内施設
10:04 客室紹介『月山』
12:18 客室風呂＆泉質紹介
14:02 夕食
16:21 貸切風呂
16:45 早朝散歩 ドローン映像～肘折朝市
17:37 朝食
18:14 総評
18:55 四ケ村の棚田
19:16 次回予告
※ドローン撮影につきましては、航空法を順守の上、国土交通省、地方自治体の指導の下行っております。
#肘折温泉
#丸屋旅館
#山形旅行
#出羽三山
#japantravel
#hijiorionsen
#maruya