旬のエゾバフンうにを頂きに、礼文島へ ｜北海道・稚内発 2泊3日の夏旅

旬のエゾバフンうにを頂きに、礼文島へ ｜北海道・稚内発 2泊3日の夏旅

July 26th is my birthday, so… My husband planned a trip to Rebun Island for me, a huge sea urchin fan. I’m so glad I was born during the sea urchin season in Hokkaido! We don’t usually fly ANA, but we’re heading to Wakkanai first. The plane was a B737-800 from 2011, and it had a cute retro vibe. Picked up the rental car. For this trip, I didn’t bring my RIMOWA suitcase. I just came with this backpack. Traveling light. So, here we are in Wakkanai. First time in Wakkanai. It’s the furthest north I’ve ever been in Japan. It’s 27 degrees right now. Tokyo was 36 degrees today, so… It’s much cooler here, but it’s really humid. This is the sea that leads to Sakhalin. Quite a view. This trip is a birthday celebration for me. KTP planned the whole thing. So, I don’t really know what we’re doing. I guess we’re eating sea urchin, right? That’s about all I know. If we can, that is. Yeah, the weather tomorrow is a bit tricky. The wind is intense. I heard rumors, but I didn’t expect it to be this strong. The wind noise must be crazy. Wow, that’s impressive! There are deer just casually in the city. Built in 1936, this breakwater dome has been protecting people from waves and strong winds. There used to be a “Wakkanai Pier Station” in front of the dome. Tomorrow, we’ll take the ferry over there to go from Wakkanai to Rebun Island. That’s the plan. Oh! It’s departing. The train station and the roadside station are in the same place. It’s the northernmost station in Japan. The modern glass building and the tracks ending at the terminal are quite striking. Back in the Showa era, when there was a route to Karafuto, the “Wakkanai Port Line” ran here, and people and goods crossed the sea via these tracks. Until around 2020, there was a route between Wakkanai and Sakhalin, so you can still find Russian signs here and there in Wakkanai. Hey there! Lamb shoulder loin and lamb tongue. Fresh lamb jingisukan, it’s the best. Is it good? Yeah. It’s delicious. Super tasty. Wow, that was really delicious. As expected. What is it about that lamb that’s so good? So, with that… I’ve turned another year older. It’s Nagiko. We’re about to hop on a ferry and head to Rebun Island. It’s about a two-hour boat ride from Wakkanai to Kafuka Port on Rebun Island. Hmm…? The weather is… We’ve arrived at Kafuka Port, the gateway to Rebun Island, located in the southeast of the island. We initially planned to go trekking once we got to the island, but since the weather isn’t great, we’re changing plans. We’re heading to the northern part of the island, where the weather seems a bit better. This is also a hiking course. Since we’re here, I thought about walking to Gorota Cape, which is about a 30-minute walk, but… There were so many bugs like gnats swarming around, walking was out of the question, so we retreated… Todo Island Observatory. Cape Sukoton, the northernmost point of Rebun Island. The island you see over there is the uninhabited Todo Island. We decided to check out the souvenir shop at Cape Sukoton… Bafun Uni Bowl ¥6,990 For a moment, I thought, “Uni at a souvenir shop…?” but it was delicious bafun uni, full of flavor. Wow, you really don’t need any soy sauce. It’s quite light, but it’s the kind of bafun uni you can keep enjoying. Kelp, kelp. That bus seems to be a regular sightseeing bus that goes around the island. Here’s the factory for the treasure uni canned goods! Rebun Airport, opened in 1980 as Japan’s northernmost airport. Since 2010, there have been no regular flights, and the airport functions are currently suspended. The airport facilities are still maintained, and there’s consideration for reopening, looking at potential tourism demand. Wow, that’s amazing. Well, let’s indulge a bit. Uni bowl for 12,000 yen. That’s something. It really is something. It seems like it’s usually filled with tour groups on weekends, but if there are any seats available after 8:00 AM on the day, you can reserve by phone. Luckily, we managed to get a reservation that day, so grateful! Ta-da! A two-color bowl with Kitamurasaki uni and Bafun uni. Here it comes! Wow, it’s beautiful. And, the Bafun uni. Wow, this is amazing. Having uni caught on Rebun Island right here on the island… It’s just too luxurious… Really… It’s richer than the last one. Yeah… Delicious… This is the highlight of my birthday this year. This observatory park was developed on the site where the movie “A Chorus of Angels” was filmed. It sits quietly on a hill on Rebun Island, overlooking Rishiri Fuji. The only regret was that the weather wasn’t good enough for trekking… What you see over there is Rishiri Fuji on the neighboring Rishiri Island. The fog is really thick. I really wanted to go trekking from here, but… With this weather, it’s just not possible. What a shame. The Momoiwa Observatory is, 200 meters ahead, about a 10-minute walk. Normally, you can see all sorts of flowers. It’s like a world from a game. I’ll take a little walk. This plant grows a lot on Rebun Island. Tomorrow morning, if I can, I’d like to come back. They don’t take reservations, so I waited for almost an hour to get into “Robata Chidori.” I’m having their signature dish, “Hokke no Chanchan Yaki.” Chanchan Yaki is usually made with salmon, but here they use a nice, fatty hokke. I mix the flaky hokke with miso sauce and dig in. Delicious! I got up early hoping for a chance to go trekking, but the weather wasn’t good again… The building with the red roof over there is the Momoiwa-so Youth Hostel. While driving along the coast, I saw lots of fishing boats, probably for uni fishing. The ferry leaves at 8:55. I’m heading back to Wakkanai now. The weather’s bad. Looks like you can get a uni bowl at the ferry terminal too. The dancing and singing seem to be from the folks at the youth hostel. Alright, back in Wakkanai, I’m at Cape Noshappu, and I’m having another uni bowl. It’s a small bowl. Besides fresh uni, it has scallops and marinated scallops. A mini uni bowl. This is Kitamurasaki uni. The radar facility of the Self-Defense Forces gives a sense of this border town. I still have time before my flight, so I’m heading north. This is the observation tower built by the former navy in 1902, remaining in Cape Soya Park. During World War II, an American submarine and a Japanese merchant ship sank off the coast of Soya. In 1995, a monument was erected jointly by Japan and the US for remembrance and peace. Many lives were lost in the Soya waters during the war. This is the “Tower of Prayer,” a memorial for the Korean Air Lines Flight 007 incident in 1983. Wow, it would be beautiful if it were sunny. It’s so incredibly white, like, how white can it get? It’s really white. From here, we enter the “White Road.” The “White Road” is paved with scallop shells. It connects the hills of Soya with the sea, offering a stunning view. If it were sunny, that is… Rishiri Fuji peeks above the clouds.

00:00 – Intro〜まずは稚内で前泊
02:38 – 防波堤ドームとジンギスカン
05:34 – 【Day 2】早朝フェリーで礼文島へ向かう
09:17 – スコトン岬でうに丼／礼文空港
12:15 – うに・海鮮処 かふかでうに丼
17:14 – 【Day 3】霧に包まれる礼文島／稚内へ
21:30 – ノシャップ岬でうに丼／宗谷岬と白すぎる白い道

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ゴロタ岬 – https://www.visit-hokkaido.jp/spot/detail_10390.html
スコトン岬 – https://www.town.rebun.hokkaido.jp/hotnews/detail/00000180.html
島の人 （スコトン岬のお土産店）- https://shop.rebun.jp/
トド島展望台 – https://gate-to-hokkaido.jp/ja/spots/25/
礼文空港 – https://www.pref.hokkaido.lg.jp/ss/kkk/kei/rebun.html
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北のカナリアパーク – https://www.north-hokkaido.com/spot/detail_1140.html
桃岩展望台 – https://rebun-trail.jp/momoiwaobservatorycourse/
桃台猫台展望台 – https://www.visit-hokkaido.jp/spot/detail_11404.html
ノシャップ岬 – https://www.north-hokkaido.com/spot/detail_1082.html
樺太食堂 – https://x.com/karafuto_
宗谷岬 – https://www.north-hokkaido.com/spot/detail_1018.html
宗谷岬公園 – https://soya-stay.jp/wakkanai/3/
白い道 – https://www.north-hokkaido.com/spot/detail_1021.html

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