Polperro – The Most Beautiful Fishing Village in Cornwall? Polperro surprised us!
Welcome to Polperro, a Cornish fishing village
so perfectly preserved it feels like stepping onto a film set or perhaps straight back in
time. Nestled here in a secluded Cornish cove, this is a place where every narrow winding
lane and ancient lichen-speckled cottage whispers tales of the sea or hardy fishermen
and of daring, cunning smugglers. Come with us as we enjoy an enchanting wander through its
past and entice you to visit for yourselves. We’re making our way to Polperro, a picturesque
village nestled on Cornwall’s southeastern coast. It’s just a 20 minute journey from Looe, a
bustling port town we explored in last week’s video. If you missed it, be sure to check it
out. Polperro offers a very different experience. Coming by car really is the only convenient
way to get here. There is no station, but the number 10 bus does come
here regularly. And as examples, it’s a 30-minute trip from Looe or a whopping
1 hour and 50 minutes from Plymouth. Check out the bus website for more details. The road dips
down a steep-sided valley, leading you gradually down towards the harbour. A nice feature is
that only locals can drive into the village, keeping it relatively traffic-free.
We have to park in a large car park at the head of the village, which is about
a 10-minute downhill walk from the harbour. Well, it’s 11:00. We’ve got parking. It’s not too
bad. Not too busy, but £7 to park for 3 hours, and it’s cash only. There is no card at Polperro car
park, so make sure you’ve got some coins with you. So, we parked up here. Oh, no, we’ve
parked up here. Right up here! We’ve got to walk all the way down to there. If
you don’t fancy or cannot make the walk, which is pretty easy and picturesque, then
new for this year is a tuk tuk service, which will drop you off in two locations for
£3. You can wait undercover for one to arrive. For centuries, this site was home to Kiligarth
Manor Mill, likely grinding corn or possibly used for cloth making. It was water powered by a
mill pool, where the car park now stands. It was converted into Crumplehorn Inn in the 1960s.
And I read that the water wheel still exists. Let’s make our way down to the
harbour. It’s about a 750 metre walk. The plantation tea rooms looked like it
would be a popular place for a break or a Cornish cream tea, but as we visited
on a Sunday, it wasn’t open. In fact, during the course of our week in Cornwall,
we found that mid-May was still quite early in the season and lots of places weren’t fully
open, offering just restricted opening times. Partway down and in between some of the first sets
of shops and cafes, we reached the model village, a replica of Polperro that has been welcoming
visitors for over 75 years. Purchased in 1948 by Jim Bedders, it was repurposed from a working village forge into the model village and opened in 1950. We chose not to visit, but you can
for £4 per adult from Easter until November. All the while we’ve been walking, the
River Pol has been flowing alongside us, by a number of buildings and passing under many bridges before it finally reaches
the harbour and flows into the sea. The village layout is an exciting maze of
narrow streets, small lanes, alleyways, and tightly packed historical houses that
invite exploration. The shopping experience is a treasure trove of small, locally
owned businesses, perfectly in keeping with the village’s character. As you stroll,
you’ll discover an eclectic mix of offerings. Fancy a unique souvenir? You’re in luck.
Polperro boasts numerous gift shops overflowing with nautical themed trinkets, Cornish pixies,
and charming mementoes to remember your trip. Art lovers will be drawn to the galleries
and studios showcasing the work of local artists inspired by the stunning coastal
scenery and the village’s vibrant colours. Of course, no trip to Cornwall is complete without
indulging in some local treats. Look out for the shops selling delicious Cornish produce like
traditional pasties and clotted cream fudge. You can even watch it being made in some places. We are lucky that it’s quieter today. There’s
no rush, a nice, relaxed pace. Just browse at your leisure, chat with the friendly
shopkeepers, soak in the atmosphere, and sometimes come to a dead end like here, where
the River Pol cuts through on its way to the sea. We have nearly reached the harbour, I promise you! There really is a lot to
see on the walk down from the car park. Every now and then, we really encourage
you to take that narrow left or right off the main thoroughfare and see what’s
hidden, like Will did on Little Laney. As it happened, the sign said nothing of note has happened here. But he still had
a good view over the roof line. Having made our way to the harbour, we
find the tide is out, revealing where the river Pol meets the sea. Having carved
its path through the village streets. Nestled at the harbour’s edge, just
beyond the small bridge, stands the renowned “house on the props”. This distinctive
building is famous for its unique structure, incorporating beams and masts salvaged
from the Malverine, which sank around 1700, and its characteristic stilts. It operates
as both a bed and breakfast and a restaurant. The village was first documented in a
royal ordinance of 1303 and began its life as a humble fishing settlement. Its
fate is inextricably linked to the ebb and flow of the tides. For centuries, the pilchard
trade was the very heartbeat of the village, defining its economy and shaping its
identity. This bustling industry was a meticulous process. Fishermen would haul in
vast catches, which were then salted, pressed, and their precious oil collected. Polperro
cured pilchards were a prized commodity, exported far and wide across Europe. At the height
of this booming trade, the harbour was a hive of activity, frequently dotted with approximately
40 Polperro “Gaffers”, distinctive large fishing boats. Closer to the shore, three pilchard
factories stood by the harbour, providing vital employment for women and children who played
a crucial role in processing the abundant catches. The Blue Peter Inn, locally known as the Blue, is believed to have originated as two
smugglers’ cottages in the early 1800s. Its name likely derives from the maritime
signal flag, signifying a ship’s readiness to set sail. It focuses on fresh food and local
Cornish beers, whilst also fostering a vibrant community atmosphere through live music and the
motto, “Enter as strangers, leave as friends”. The Shell House is an iconic 19th-century
fisherman’s cottage, uniquely decorated with countless seashells by retired navalman
Samuel Puckley between 1937 and 42. Its exterior features intricate shell designs,
including seagulls and a miniature Eddystone lighthouse. Puckley lived there until the late
1950s, collecting donations for local charities. Beyond its legitimate fishing trade, Polperro’s
geography was its greatest asset in its notorious 18th-century smuggling operations. Its
secluded coves and isolated location, combined with the ingenuity of its residents,
made it an ideal hub for contraband. This was a large-scale enterprise involving hundreds
of individuals who vastly outnumbered revenue officers attempting to police the coastline.
A variety of goods, including brandy, tobacco, gin, rum, and tea, were spirited ashore. Often
from Guernsey, where they were available at much lower prices due to crippling taxes in Britain.
Several colourful figures dominated Polperro’s smuggling law. Zephaniah Job, a local merchant
who lived in the Crumplehorn Inn at the head of the village in the late 18th and early 19th
century, became known as the “smuggler’s banker”, highlighting the organised and almost
business-like nature of the trade. The name Willie Wilcox is synonymous with Polperro
smuggling. His sea cave near the harbour is a key attraction. Legend states he drowned in this
very cave while attempting to evade customs men. These are just a few of the many stories you can
uncover if you visit the Harbour Heritage Museum. Open from April until October. Entry is just
a few pounds. And I regret we didn’t go inside to find out more about the heritage, but with
the weather so good, we wanted to stay outside. The lucrative era of smuggling eventually declined
with the introduction of a more organised coast guard service and the imposition of
stiff penalties for those caught. However, the tales and legends endure, forming
a captivating chapter in the village’s history. The village’s heart and lifeblood
is undoubtedly the picturesque harbour. A particularly interesting
facet is its community ownership. It is one of the few harbours in the country
to be solely owned by the local community, with profits from the Polperro Heritage
Museum directly contributing to its upkeep. Another unique aspect of Polperro’s heritage
is its tradition of “knitfrocks”. Essentially, hand-knitted jumpers or “gangys”. The
ladies of the village would spend many an hour knitting these garments as
they waited for the men to come back from their fishing trips. These knitfrocks
were known for their distinctive designs, some of which were preserved in paintings
displayed in the museum. Remarkably, this craft is still carried out today by a small
number of village ladies as a social pastime. The renowned Southwest Coast Path
passes directly through the village, offering spectacular walks along the rugged
coastline with panoramic views of the cliffs, hidden coves, and crystal clear waters. If we
were to continue up this path, we would reach the Spyhouse Point lighthouse and then beyond
the southwest coast pathway heading towards Talland Bay and Looe. However, we are going to
turn around at this point and head back into the centre of the harbour for a well-earned
drink at a pub with a spectacular view. We are heading for The Three Pilchards. Said to
be the oldest pub in the village. Built in the early 16th century. Its history is vague and
mysterious, just like some of the tales from the village. Two Italian brothers are said to
have settled in Polperro and exported pilchards to their home country of Italy. Some locals
believe the Italian brothers inspired the name of the pub. Inside, we set our sights on
an outside seat, climbing the narrow steps. It was very busy in the lower bar, so not
possible to film the ancient interior. Up high, a deck over two levels provides an
incredible view over the roofs of the harbour, and it’s dog-friendly. There is a bar on this
level, so you don’t have to keep heading to the ground floor. One of the three Piltchards
landlords, Charles Joliff, in the 19th century, was rumoured to have sold contraband liquor
over the bar. It really is a stunning location, and if you can get a seat up here,
you’ve bagged the best seat in the house. Exiting the pub, we take a right turn and
head for the chapel steps. A steep set of steps that leads us up onto the chapel cliffs.
This is also part of the southwest coast path, with its networks of pathways to explore. Down on the front at the harbour
mouth, you’ll find a natural swimming pool that can be reached via a stone
staircase known as the chapel pool. Nestled prominently on Peak Rock, at the entrance
of the harbour, you’ll discover the Net Loft, a truly iconic building. As its name suggests, its
distinctive structure was once a vital hub for the village’s fishing community, with its lower levels
dedicated to boat repairs, and the upper floor serving as a crucial space for mending and storing
the extensive fishing nets and sails that powered Polperro’s pilchard industry. Fascinatingly,
this is the very spot that is also believed to be the site of Polperros 19th-century
chapel, adding another layer to its rich past. Clambering down the steps, we reached the harbour
wall. And from here, you can catch a 30-minute boat trip for £10 per person. Check this website
for details. You’ll have a chance to see dolphins, seals, jellyfish, varieties of fish, and local
seabirds, including cormorants, gillemots, and oystercatchers. There are also tide dependent
services to Looe, which we visited last week, or to Fowey, which will be at next time. A
keen fisherman can also book a 2-hour mackerel fishing trip that is run throughout the year. So,
there are plenty of boating things to do here. Polperro offers a rare combination of
stunning, untouched visual beauty and a deeply layered history, making it an exceptionally
rewarding destination for a visit or stay. Its iconic harbour, the intriguing tales of
smuggling and fishing, the charming labyrinth of streets, and the warmth of its traditional
pubs provide a wonderful, relaxing environment. The village’s ability to maintain its historic
character while welcoming visitors is a testament to its strong community spirit and unique
geography. Of course, I have to remind you that we were lucky to have visited on a quiet day in the
early season. July and August can be very busy. As we head back up to the car park, let’s
have a look at where we’ll be heading on the next episode. Next time we visit
Fowey, a jewel of South Cornwall. Here, the narrow winding streets cascade down to a
sparkling estuary, and every corner seems to hold tales of maritime daring, literary
genius, and a fishing heritage that is deeply woven into its identity. Join us for an
afternoon stroll in this charming Cornish town, and find out why you should visit. That’s it for Polperro. It was such a nice village. Didn’t really know what to expect when we
first parked up. Walking around the harbour, especially, was amazing. And going up onto
the cliff, looking back over the village. Such a pretty place. Thank you for watching. Please
subscribe, and we shall see you on the next one.
Have you ever stumbled upon a place that just takes your breath away, a hidden gem that exceeds all expectations? That’s exactly how we felt about our visit to Polperro, a true marvel nestled on the stunning Cornish coast. Today, we’re diving deep into why Polperro truly deserves the title of the Most Beautiful Fishing Village in Cornwall.
Join us as we wander through the winding, car-free lanes of Polperro, a place where time seems to slow down, and every corner reveals another postcard-perfect scene. From the moment you arrive, you’ll understand why it’s considered the Most Beautiful Fishing Village in Cornwall. Its charming cottages, clinging to the hillsides, tumble down to a picturesque harbour brimming with colourful fishing boats. The air is alive with the calls of gulls and the gentle lapping of waves against ancient quaysides, creating an atmosphere that’s both vibrant and utterly serene.
Polperro’s history is as rich and captivating as its scenery. Originally a pilchard fishing port, Polperro’s sheltered harbour has been a hub of activity for hundreds of years. In its heyday, the village was a notorious centre for smuggling, with tales of illicit goods being spirited away under the cover of darkness. Imagine the daring escapades that unfolded within these very walls! You can almost hear the whispers of smugglers and the creak of their laden boats as you explore its narrow passageways.
But beyond its fascinating history, what makes Polperro your next must-visit destination?
Well, for starters, it’s an artist’s paradise. The unique light, the vibrant colours of the boats, and the dramatic coastal backdrop provide endless inspiration for painters and photographers alike. Every vista is a work of art waiting to be captured, and you’ll find galleries showcasing local talent dotted throughout the village. For the keen rambler, the South West Coast Path offers breathtaking walks in both directions, with Polperro as a perfect base. Imagine clifftop strolls offering panoramic views of the rugged coastline, the sparkling sea, and the charming village itself nestled in its cove.
And let’s not forget the food! Being an active fishing village, Polperro boasts some of the freshest seafood you’ll ever taste. From traditional fish and chips enjoyed by the harbour to more upscale dining experiences featuring the day’s catch, your taste buds are in for a treat. Explore the delightful independent shops, browse for unique souvenirs, or simply find a spot by the harbour, sip on a cream tea, and watch the world go by. The pace of life here is wonderfully unhurried, encouraging you to relax and soak in the atmosphere truly.
Helpful Links:
https://www.thebluepeterinn.co.uk
https://www.transportforcornwall.co.uk
https://threepilchardspolperro.co.uk
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00:00 Welcome to Polperro
01:13 Getting to Polperro
02:46 Walking to the Harbour
06:24 Narrow Streets & Lanes
10:45 Polperro Harbour
19:01 The Three Pilchards
20:24 Chapel Steps
23:28 Boat Trips
25:34 Next Time…
49 Comments
We hope you enjoyed our walk around Polperro. Come back next time when we head to Fowey, just a few miles down the coast.
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Helpful Links from this video:-
https://www.thebluepeterinn.co.uk
https://houseonprops.co.uk
https://www.polperroharbourtrust.org
https://www.transportforcornwall.co.uk
https://polperroboattrips.com
https://threepilchardspolperro.co.uk
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What a beautiful area! I could be visiting England next year so I am making a list of your places!!!
Lovely 🎉. Thank you for the tour. Hugs and blessings ❤
Thank you for amazing video! What a beautiful village! I've never heard of this place! Thank you for telling us and showing it!
Lovely place, and fantastic weather by the look of it.
😃💕🇨🇦
“Nothing of note has happened here.” LOL! This native New York City woman loves British humor so much 😆
It is what I call a storybook pretty village , like it couldn’t possibly be be real and the two of you are lucky enough to visit and kind enough to share experience 🫶🙏👏 Bliss 😊
Hi Simon n Will. What an absolutely amazing place!! Stunning!! I must say though that you made me laugh at 3:09 minutes in when you state that you read that the water wheel still exists while scanning past it at the side of the building next door to the crumplehorn. Mind you, even my hubby couldn't see it until I physically pointed it out 😂 Im going to share this with friends who love Cornwall and visit a lot. It's lovely to see Will back, too.
I find it fascinating how well-preserved England's villages are! For my taste England is the most picturesque country I've ever visited , Switzerland was beautiful also but I find it doesn't have England's whimsical charm. Much love from a Greek admirer
Wonderful video ! What a beautiful little town to visit .
Another lovely visit to charming Cornwall! I do think I might get a bit claustrophobic to be packed in with crowds on those narrow streets. A fun place to explore, though. It might be fun to see on a foggy October morning for a different vibe. Fowey should be great too. So much history!!
What a lovely village! I'm glad they have restricted automobile access to local residents. I think heavy tourist car traffic there would ruin the experience for pedestrians.
Simon & Will, would love to know where this village's name originates. Simply lovely post. Wonderful that it is drivable only by residents. Tourists really get a work out! 😉 And thank you for posting location map…you two are the best vloggers out there. XX
Beautiful place. Again, another stunning English Seaside (?).You certainly get a work out ,all the climbing. Looking forward to next week. Take Care 😊😊f
Welcome to my part of the world. The walk from Polperro to Looe via Talland is wonderful. I recommend travel one way by bus or boat, these services work well. Enjoy your time in Cornwall.
Another beautiful small community port. I can see why the carpark is as far as you can drive. There was a TV series called 'Smuggler' in the 1970's? Last week you inspired me to look on line. A couple of episodes were found but that was all. As you were walking around I could imagine the salty air. Thank you so much, just love this series. Take care Simon and Will =-)
These villages are absolutely dreamy. How I wish I lived over there across the pond. England is simply enchanting! Thank you for the tour❤
5:36 the model village is currently for sale for £710k
What an absolutely magical place!
Que pueblo tan hermoso siempre hay tanto verde y canales . Al parecer Cornualles es una ciudad bien grande. Saludos desde Chile.
Please never stop visiting these beautiful villages and sharing them with us. Thank you.
We had a lovely holiday there about ten years ago
Hello discovered Ur channel a few weeks ago I am now hooked on your channel tank for making me feel like I was there with U keep going U do fan job
😍 I loved all the pathways, alleyways, and stairways! Maze-like!🤩
Simon, what a charming little village. Could you tell me the name of the one used as a location for the series Doc Martin?
Such a beautiful little village. The homes are very nice. I enjoy the architecture. The shops would be fun to browse. The shell house is gorgeous. So picturesque. Thanks much for shaing this .😊
Stunning, stunning, stunning. We were surprised things weren’t fully open in May. We’d be going in September ‘26 so hopefully it’s all going then. 🙂
Thank you again, another village for us to visit after seeing what a wonderful place it is. Again, thank you for showing prices, etc., and the tip about only accepting cash. We keep getting told by our Australian bank that no one uses cash in the UK. It is all tap and pay. Without you two, our trip, which starts in three weeks, would have been ruined.
What a beautiful place l could easily live there quite happily
Thank you it's amazing
Cheers🍻
Tony
This looks a lot like the seaside fishing town shown in the wonderful Doc Martin show. Simon is a great videographer – every shot by the water is like a picture perfect post card with seagull sounds in the background. ❤
Just nothing like this in the US……I live on the SW coast of Oregon and this type of building/ look… would have been perfect..TY, Gents
What a fabulous video. All those lovely streets. Such a beautiful place. Thanks for taking me long. Please take care
I love these little fishing villages 😊
I’ve stayed at the CRUMPLEHORN several times and it is great. (Best come by bus or scooter to avoid the parking charges if your only visiting for the day)
Cornish harbours are just fabulous. (I will visit anywhere that does good fish&chips and fresh warm scones) 😁
🤍🤍🤍🤍🤍
The Crumplehorn water wheel was right there on the side of the building 03:07
Beautiful 😍
Shame u can afird to park parking charges are crazy wat it cost u for a hour there u can park for the day in nearby looe
Marvelous town ❤
Es precioso ❤❤
🌺☀️Nice Village Polperro
Great to hear cash only
I adore Polperro walked from Talland Bay along the coastal path to Polperro. The cliff collapsed some years ago and I believe the path now goes inland before reaching Polperro what beautiful memories ♥️
A most beautiful village. I love it. And a glorious day.too
Lovely place, but it was disappointing to learn that 40% of the properties in Polperro are either holiday lets or second homes for non-locals. I'm from the SW, I moved away when I was young and now sadly can't afford the property prices to move back.
😎
Partied a little to hard last night and had such a hangover until i watched this video, your soothing voice and incredible videography combined with the 1 of the most beautiful villages I've ever seen took all my ails away and I'm just left with peace in my heart. Thank you SO very much! ❤❤❤❤