【温泉旅館宿泊記】360年以上の歴史をもつ箱根の老舗宿「松坂屋本店」離れ特別室にて評判の湯に浸かる大人の休日

【温泉旅館宿泊記】360年以上の歴史をもつ箱根の老舗宿「松坂屋本店」離れ特別室にて評判の湯に浸かる大人の休日

This time, I came to Hakone in Kanagawa Prefecture with a friend for the first time in a long time. I am taking a leisurely walk around Lake Ashi in the pleasant air. I head to a hot spring inn that I have always wanted to go to. It is just a few minutes from Lake Ashi. The hot spring area, Ashinoyu, is one of the “Seven Hot Springs of Hakone” that was opened in the Kamakura period. Nestled in the forest, this long-established inn boasts a history of over 360 years. It is said to be a 13,000m2 site, surrounded by lush greenery. As soon as I pulled up to the gate, a staff member came running over to me. I parked the car and went inside. It has a Japanese appearance with dignity and elegance. I went through the noren curtain with a pine motif and went to the back. I felt as if I had traveled back in time. The entrance with a karahafu roof and a beautiful, well-maintained welcoming garden. I walked through the entrance with excitement. I was greeted politely with the best smiles. I was nervous because it was a long-established inn, but everyone’s smiles made me feel at ease. We were shown around the building and headed to the lobby. The lobby was modeled after a Western-style building from the Meiji period. The greenery seen from the window was beautiful. We sat down and checked in. We were greeted with tea and sweets. The nerikiri, which was modeled after irises, was from a famous store in Hakone. You can choose your favorite yukata, and I chose a green one with a top pattern. We decided the time for dinner and breakfast. The room key was made of marquetry, a specialty of Hakone, and was beautiful. We were guided around the large building and headed to our room. There are many things to see in the historic building. I will introduce them later. There are five buildings on the vast grounds and 22 guest rooms. This time, we stayed in the detached room, which is the best room in the inn. It looks like this. Before entering the room, there was a tatami mat floor. In the room, we were given instructions on how to use the room and a guide to the hot spring. The hot spring is said to have excellent quality, so we are looking forward to it. We will start the room tour again. The detached “Senshintei” is a historic guest room built as a villa for the imperial family in the Meiji era. As mentioned earlier, the lock is made of parquet. Let me in. First, there is a long corridor, and in front of you is a branch arranged by the proprietress. As soon as you enter, there is a minibar. This is a space that can be used as a closet. There is another long corridor, and as you go further, you will find a corner room with a large window on the veranda and a lot of greenery. And the room is like this. It is about 92 square meters and consists of two rooms. It was renovated in 2024 and can accommodate up to four people. It is an ideal, beautiful room with a pure Japanese style. It is said that Emperor Taisho once rested here during his time as the Crown Prince. It brings back memories for us, and I think that guests from overseas will also enjoy it as a traditional Japanese building. No matter which window you look through, the garden continues on and on. There is no sign of people, and it is surrounded by greenery everywhere. I think this would be wonderful during the autumn leaves and when the snow is falling. You can go out onto the stage-like terrace and enjoy the sound of the wind and the birds singing. Returning to the room and looking towards the back, the bedroom is on the other side of the sliding door. Let’s take a closer look at this room. First, there is a TV. Next to the TV is a wood speaker. It is an eco-friendly item that allows you to insert your smartphone and have the sound reverberate. On the tokonoma, there is a hanging scroll and a vase. It is a Kutani ware flower arrangement. It is nice to be able to encounter crafts from my hometown. There is a tokonoma alcove in the Shoin style, and the difference shelves add elegance to the space. There is another Kutani ware here. It is a cute lion. What is this thing with a name on it placed next to it? It was an incense set. The pleasant smell of incense can be heard here and there in the building. The view from the low table. It looks like a painting. On the low table, there is a subtle hospitality. Original miso honey nut snacks and a cypress scented towel. Now, next, we go to the bedroom next door. I am happy that it has been renovated and has been turned into a bed. A twin room with a width of 100cm, length of 200cm, and height of 40cm. The sheets are embroidered with the Matsuzakaya Main Store’s pine logo. It’s elegant and subtly high quality. There is an outlet and USB next to the bed, so it’s comfortable. The calligraphy “Senshintei” above the bed is by “Taneomi Fukushima”, one of the three great calligraphers in Japan. The subtleness of the kumiko shoji screens reminds us of the beauty of Japanese handicrafts. This is the highest-class room at the historic Matsuzakaya Main Store. It’s wonderful. Now, I went out to the hallway and headed for the minibar. There was a Dolce Gusto and a DeLonghi electric kettle. When I opened the drawer, I found four types of Dolce Gusto capsules. There were three types of Japanese tea bags from Ippodo Tea Shop in Kyoto. Gyokuro, Sencha, and Hojicha were prepared. In another drawer, there were free cups and C&S. They were made in Japan with good taste. Then I found a refrigerator. You can feel free to use anything inside. There are also drinks such as Black Label and Fuji Hokuroku Distillery highballs. Two kinds of beautifully colored Mt. Fuji cider. There is a place where you can see the beautiful Mt. Fuji from Hakone. Tea from Ashigara, next to Hakone. This highball is one that I said I liked in an old video. There seems to be a toilet in the back. It is spacious and clean. It has a hand washing basin, so it is comfortable. In the first closet I saw, there were yukata, tabi socks, and a basket bag for going to the large bath. Finally, I went to the bath. It was just renovated last year, so it is a bright and very clean space. It is spacious and has a large glass wall, so it is very open. The main bath is the outdoor open-air bath, but I am happy that the indoor bath is also so spacious. I will look at the sink again. There are two bowls, and there is space around it, so it looks easy to use. The small tray on which the teacups are placed is made of Hakone’s traditional “marquetry”. The bath amenities have been temporarily changed, but they are “Sensatia” from Paris. There is a fluffy towel at your feet. The towel also has a gold embroidered logo. There are also traditional hot spring towels. They are cute. When you open the drawer, you will see many amenities lined up. Each item is placed in a box with an elegant logo. A skin care set is also available. They are from “Omnisens”, a spa brand that originated in Paris, France. I lined up one person’s worth. I took them out of the box. It’s nice that the items are branded. The hair dryer is “Refa”, which is a great product that I use myself. I proceed into the bath. There is a towel warmer in the dressing room along the way. The indoor bath has a light white wood design. It is equipped with a rain shower, as well as a chair and a bucket. And the cypress bathtub. The bath is so large that the bathtub looks small. It leads directly to the open-air bath, where bright light pours in through the glass door. This is not a hot spring, so it seems that you can enjoy herbal baths. The bath amenities in the bathroom are usually “Sensatia” from Paris. Do you remember visiting this place in the video about Indonesia? Finally, here is the open-air hot spring bath in the guest room. This one also looks small because the terrace is wide, but it is large enough. The hot spring here is said to have excellent spring quality and has been highly praised by word of mouth. The hot spring water, which flows at 200 liters per minute, is completely free-flowing from the source. It is said to be a rare spring quality that contains all three major skin-beautifying spring qualities: sulfur springs, sulfate springs, and bicarbonate springs. It is said to be a scientifically analyzed hot spring for beautiful skin, and I am looking forward to taking a bath. This is the view from the open-air bath. A quaint stone lantern. The green of the trees overlapping one another. At the bottom of the hot water, fine white hot spring deposits are quietly sinking. What do you think? A beautiful room with a pure Japanese style and excellent spring quality. I would like to enjoy this. I was guided around the inn, which is full of 360 years of history. The lounge where we had tea after checking in was designed in the image of a Western-style building from the Taisho period. It was very quiet, and the green of the forest visible from the window made it feel extraordinary. Near the lobby, there was a pure white terrace where we could relax. Near the front desk, we found armor. The inn’s logo was shining on the chest. Apparently, you can wear it and take a photo. There is a drink corner near the lounge, and you can drink as much as you like during your stay. They offer draft beer, wine, sake, local “Hakoneyama” juice, coffee, and tea. The shop corner. There are original products of the inn and handicrafts from the area. The most popular are the original products of the inn. The quality of the hot spring is so good that many people buy the hot spring base. The coasters with the inn’s logo on the marquetry are also popular. The matcha cans with original labels are popular with foreigners. There are various marquetry products, and I want to buy them all. The Odawara wind chimes are also very elegant. Going further in, there is a large and magnificent mirror, which I briefly introduced at the beginning. It is said that it was originally from the Hakone Rikyu Imperial Villa, an imperial villa from the Meiji period. When it was sold off, the chrysanthemum crest was scraped off as it was considered too presumptuous. There is a bar on the side, decorated with seasonal flowers arranged by the proprietress. This is what the bar looks like. You can enjoy drinks from the drink corner here, or order vintage whiskey. The corridor leading to the inner wing. There are historical documents here and there. This inn is also depicted in an ukiyo-e print by “Utagawa Hiroshige.” There is even a part of the gatepost of the Hakone checkpoint. A monument related to the Meiji Restoration can be seen from the window in the corridor. It is said that while Kido Takayoshi was staying at this inn, Saigo Takamori visited and persuaded him to “make peace with Okubo Toshimiti.” This is something you can only find at a famous inn with a long history in Hakone. Valuable historical items and people appear. Matsuzakaya Main Store, where five buildings are connected. This is what the inside of the building looks like. There are 22 rooms with different styles. It would be nice to find your favorite one and make it your regular place. We arrived at a building called Shunranso. The back of the building is connected to the detached building where we are staying. There is a space called the “Irori no Ma” here. It has a very nice atmosphere. You can spend your time here freely. There are old-fashioned Japanese toys, and English explanations are also provided. It is a wonderful space where you can take a time trip to the nostalgic life of Japan. Behind it is a large public bath. The water is 100% natural spring water that has been flowing since the Edo period. It has been very beautifully renovated, and you can see a beautiful garden from the bath. You can have a cold drink here. It is a rare hot spring that contains all three major skin-beautifying spring qualities, and is weakly alkaline, soft to the touch, and does not easily get hot water. The men’s and women’s baths change daily. This time, we were specially shown both. The changing rooms are also new and clean. Designed in calm colors. The washroom has a partition and is a space where you can sit and relax, which is nice. Skin care products are provided and there are plenty of amenities. There are also many towels with logos, so you can come empty-handed. Now, let’s go into the bath. It’s wonderful. The scent of the wood and the hot spring is the best. The light from the frosted glass and the green from the lattice enhance the atmosphere. The color of the source is emerald green at first, and it is rare that it becomes cloudy depending on the temperature, and you can also see hot spring deposits. I like the retro design. The lights are also decorated with pine. The washing area is as shown here. There is a partition, and shampoos are provided. There seems to be an open-air bath. This is also spacious and wonderful. Since most of the rooms have hot spring baths, this large large bath is always empty, so it’s great. Now, let’s go to the other large bath. It is similar to the previous one, but has a slightly different design. “Ashinoyu Onsen”, where this inn is located, is the only one in Kanagawa Prefecture that has been selected as a national hot spring resort. It seems that you go outside and go around to the open-air bath . As expected, it is an inn that is proud of its hot springs. I was surprised to see such a large public bath in addition to the open-air baths in the guest rooms. There is also a private open-air bath, so I went to see it. I came across it after a short walk through the lush forest. There are five private rooms with open-air baths here, which guests can use free of charge. Day-trip bathing is also available. Each room is designed differently, so let’s take a look at a few. Wow, there is a relaxing space, which is great. Behind the glass door is the hot spring. It feels like a stage , with a very large bathtub. It’s like an oasis in the forest, and you can experience something out of the ordinary. Each private room is also equipped with a bathroom like this. There is a rain shower and shampoos. Let’s take a look at this room as well. This one feels hollowed out, and the sky is wide. It has a very open feeling, and you can enjoy the starry sky at night. The bathrooms also have slightly different designs. I would like to introduce all of them, but there is just one more room. This room looks like this. The design makes use of the large maple tree as it is. What do you think? I would like to enjoy not only the guest room, but also the large communal bath and private bath. The room we are staying in is popular, but we were introduced to other unique rooms that are also popular. We found a staircase, which seems to be a maisonette type. A 74 square meter room called “Akebono”. This room also has an open-air hot spring bath. A private space surrounded by passing prey trees. You can enjoy bathing without being disturbed by anyone. Wow, the hand washing bowl is beautiful, it’s Kutani ware. When we went to the second floor, this is the space. We were surprised to see the tokonoma alcove, which was in the style of a samurai residence. There was a picture of a pine tree, a sword on a sword rack, and a lantern. It’s a unique arrangement, and I think overseas guests would be pleased. There were many things to see that can only be found at a famous historic inn. Now, after enjoying the hot spring, it was time for dinner. We ate at a restaurant called “EN” inside the building. This one has also just been renovated and is very beautiful. There are several semi-private spaces on both sides of the central counter. It is spacious, and you can see the greenery from the window, which is very nice. Apparently they also have private rooms. Once seated, you will be guided to your bespoke meal. Here is the drink menu. They have a wide variety of sake. They also have a wide selection of premium sake and Japanese whiskey. Japanese wine, shochu, fruit liquor, and beer. You can freely choose from these, even though they are included in the accommodation fee. Dinner is a meal that gives you a sense of Hakone’s history as a prosperous post town. It seems that you can enjoy seasonal and local ingredients. After ordering drinks, this wonderful menu was brought to you. I ordered a draft beer, then a local sake. A local plum wine was also served as an aperitif. There are many menus that are carefully made with the season in mind. It’s nice that there are many refreshing dishes during the humid rainy season. I ‘m happy to be able to enjoy various delicious things with each bite. The chopsticks are also made of beautifully crafted marquetry and are cute . Next is the jelly. A steamed dish with a silky smooth texture, covered with Yoshino ginger paste. Inside were conger eel, broad beans, and black abalone mushrooms. It was mild, but the dashi stock was effective and it was delicious. And then there was the sashimi. It was served in a bamboo container, and in a separate bowl you could see the bluefin tuna. It looked gorgeous and delicious. We ate it with Tosa soy sauce and roasted sake. The bluefin tuna was salted and koji-marinated, and was served with Kinzanji miso and nori seaweed. There was a wide variety of sashimi, including Mt. Fuji trout, amberjack, seared scallops, and yuba. All of them were delicious, with a melt-in-the-mouth flavor. Next was eggplant. The Kamo eggplant is softly grilled and coated with sweet and salty shiso miso, creating a fragrant dengakuyaki. Then came the tempura. Seasonal flounder, bamboo shoots, Fushimi chili peppers, and other ingredients are deep-fried until crispy and delicious. Then, on the ceramic plate, there is Ashigara beef, a local brand of beef. The flavor is locked in by the far infrared rays of the ceramic plate. Enjoy the lean and moderately fatty Ashigara beef. This is served with the meat. Enjoy the aftertaste slowly with rice, soup, and pickles. The Ashigara beef is served with ponzu sauce and rock salt. The rice is cooked in a kettle! Tsuyahime rice from Yamagata is simmered with small sardines and mountain vegetables. Then, a clear soup with an elegant aroma and flavor. Everything was very delicious, with a gentle flavor that clearly conveyed how carefully it was made. We ate everything, right up to the final dessert. The homemade matcha ice cream had a strong and delicious matcha flavor. Thank you for the meal. After that, we returned to our room and went to the hot springs again. Away from the everyday, delicious food and hot springs. It’s the best. Good night. Good morning! Even though it’s the rainy season, it’s a clear day and the green of the garden shines brightly. I overslept so I’m feeling great! I’ll take a dip in the hot springs while aiming for beautiful skin if I get a chance. I’ll get ready for the morning and head to breakfast. Dinner was so delicious that I’m looking forward to breakfast . I came to the same restaurant as dinner. It’s great to be able to eat while looking at the greenery. What is this thing that’s already on standby? It was something to enjoy hot tofu. It also comes with a stir-fried egg broth. A menu was also prepared for breakfast. I’m happy. The unique breakfast menu, titled “Traveler’s Breakfast,” gives you the feel of a Hakone post town. Tea and towels are prepared, and the hot tofu is warmed. Soon, a box filled with small dishes arrived. Various dishes are brought out one after another, and I get excited. A variety of nutritious dishes reminiscent of the time of this post town. Simple yet carefully prepared, they will give you energy on the morning of your journey. The grilled fish is overnight dried horse mackerel caught in Sagami Bay. The soup is kenchinjiru soup with plenty of ingredients. The hot tofu is steaming and ready to eat. The rice is made with barley and topped with grated wild yam from Minamiashigara. Surrounded by delicious aromas and steam, you can enjoy a variety of dishes that will please your body little by little. The pickled plums are “Juro”, a famous plum that represents Odawara’s Soga Plum Grove, and are salty pickled only in traditional salt. The kamaboko are from “Kagosei”, a long-established Odawara store with over 200 years of history. You can’t miss the hot spring eggs. It seems that they became established as a hot spring specialty in the late Edo period. The beans here are actually homemade natto! They are fluffy and delicious. Next to them is Arima-ni, a sweetly cooked dish of Ashigara beef. The vegetables are also delicious. The grated yam was delicious with its chewy, strong stickiness and mountain aroma. I slowly ate it. The hot tofu was smooth and the stir-fried ko broth was delicious. The barley rice and grated yam was a simple yet nutritious old-fashioned combination. I finished with yogurt and it was a very satisfying breakfast. After that, I relaxed again and enjoyed the hot spring in my room. I was soothed by the greenery from the room. I would have liked to stay here forever doing nothing, but it was about time to leave. This inn has valued unchanging hospitality throughout its 300-year history. The weight of the building and furnishings and the calm air slowly seeped into my heart. In an extraordinary environment that felt like a time slip, I was soothed by the delicious food and the good hot spring. I ‘m sure I will miss this hot spring and the forest again and come back. The dinner and breakfast were unpretentious, and I was particularly impressed by the deliciousness of the soup stock. I also enjoyed the feeling of being a traveler in Edo. The free-flowing spring water with mineral deposits sinking into it also teaches us the luxury of soaking in a real hot spring. I think the warmth of the landlady and all the other staff is one of the reasons this inn has been loved for so long. We were seen off politely to the end and headed home. I’ll buy some rusks and yumochi as usual to take home. It was an inn that left a lasting impression on my heart, where I could feel the depth of the land of Hakone. It’s no wonder it’s popular with guests from overseas. Thank you for watching until the end! Where should I go next? That’s all from Lili!

※松坂屋本店に撮影協力を頂いております

こちらもあわせてお楽しみください♪

こんにちは☺️
大人の休日CHのリリです。
今回は友人と共に箱根の老舗温泉宿【松坂屋本店】
に滞在してきました。

長い歴史をもち数々の要人も訪れた、名宿。
館内の調度品や食事から
宿場町としての箱根の歴史に想いを馳せられる唯一無二の温泉宿でした。
静かな森のなか、タイムスリップしたような気分で
評判の泉質であるこちらの温泉をたっぷり堪能してきました。

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松坂屋本店
https://kinnotake-resorts.com/matsuzakayahonten
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