【京都】中華の神技を極めた73歳の鉄人男！！圧倒的な技術は日本の武士道にヒントが隠れていた！！

【京都】中華の神技を極めた73歳の鉄人男！！圧倒的な技術は日本の武士道にヒントが隠れていた！！

Are people really going to be satisfied
I wonder if they will come? The first thing is customer satisfaction. The customer is the one who evaluates. Kyoto’s proud 73 year old master chef has been making Chinese food for 55 years.
The traditional technique passed down from generation to generation shines through. Always reflecting on the past It’s like, “I’m going to live or die.
Zanshin” with that kind of feeling (of being on your guard) Work with “zanshin Never let your guard down and never let up until the end
The spirit of Bushido is inherited by the Chinese iron man. There is no end to the road of cooking
I think there is an endless culinary path （I want to be a chef for 10 more years. Until I’m 80 years old Kameoka City, spreading through the mountains of Kyoto—
a town known for its ties to Akechi Mitsuhide, where nature and history coexist. Today, we dive into the flavors of a renowned local restaurant rooted in this land. In the kitchen, preparations for the day have already begun. The soup uses an entire whole chicken. Mr.Yano）(For the soup ingredients,) minced chicken bones. People often use chicken feet for soup ingredients, right? We include all of those and have them minced together. And also minced pork. Another one is a whole chicken, just as it is. We simmer that and remove all the scum. A light, clear broth. We make a transparent soup. I was born in 1951. I’m 73 years old. I was born in Kyoto City, but ever since I was little, Like the thatched-roof village of Miyama in Kyoto Prefecture. Like the thatched-roof village of Miyama in Kyoto Prefecture. That’s where I grew up. When I turned 18, I trained at a restaurant called “Takeka” on Hanamikoji Street in Kyoto’s Gion area. I did apprentice training and served as a live-in helper. After I turned 20, I moved to Tokai City in Aichi Prefecture. Just my younger brother and I, the two of us. It was a restaurant in a residential area, so we lived together. I remember struggling a lot during that time. The taste was completely different from Kyoto’s. Chinese cuisine in Kyoto vs. Chinese cuisine in Aichi. In Aichi, there’s a strong miso-based culture. When I served dishes just as I learned them,
they weren’t received well at all. People would say, “This is too bland.” So I had to get creative and adapt. Around the time I turned 30, my parents moved to Kameoka. They ran a yakiniku and small dish restaurant in this area. Since I was the eldest son, my wife and I talked it over and decided to move here and open our own restaurant. It’s been nearly 50 years since I became independent. This year marks the 45th year for this restaurant. Carefully grilled chicken thigh and shoulder roast. He frequently adjusts their position,
watching how the heat hits the meat. This one is simmered pork. We simmer it like this. The seasoning differs
between roasted pork and simmered pork. So we use them differently. The roasted pork is used in ramen and other dishes. But in Kyoto City, the culture of Japanese cuisine, Kyoto-style cooking, was already deeply rooted and well established. Strong flavors, foods with garlic or spices— Those seasonings were taboo for guests being entertained in the geisha districts. They weren’t allowed. Sometimes people added mustard to get that kick, since the taste was light. So using light seasoning is a major feature of Kyoto-style Chinese food. So it’s been about 70 to 80 years. Unlike Kobe or Nagasaki, where it’s been around for about 100 years, Kyoto’s Chinese food culture has a different background and history. Even within that culture, I continue to cook the way I was taught, staying true to Kyoto’s culinary style. Half of it is the style of “Takeka” where I trained— low on garlic and lightly seasoned. I maintain that. The other half is Kameoka’s original flair— using bold flavors, garlic, doubanjiang, and more. That led to some hit items, and that’s the kind of menu development I’m doing these days. Both of them are made very thin. Sliced thin like a sheet of paper. Slicing straight, straight down. It turns into threads like this. These are the ingredients for spring rolls. Green onions, bamboo shoots, shiitake mushrooms, and crab—
all finely sliced. We’ll start stir-frying them now. We also add thinly sliced pork. Then we stir-fry everything. Add in the ingredients prepared earlier. Then add soup, oyster sauce, soy sauce, and sugar. Let the spring roll filling cool down. Strong flour. Add water little by little and knead it powerfully. Director）What are you making?
Mr.Yano）Spring roll wrappers. I add eggs, wheat flour, potato starch, and water. Then knead it firmly until it’s as firm as an earlobe. The right thickness comes from years of experience. You also need to account for humidity levels at the time. So I adjust the amount of water accordingly. Then I let it rest for now. I’m very particular about spring rolls. You can’t find wrappers like these in stores. They’re pricey at my place, too. Normally, mini spring rolls go for 300 or 400 yen. But ours go for 1,000 yen. They’re a bit bigger too. These are Kyoto-style spring rolls. There are a few places that still stick to that style,
but the number is decreasing. Mr.Yano）The heat level is really important here. The timing of when you pour the batter matters. The cooked spring roll wrappers. His wife begins wrapping the spring rolls beside him. She wraps the filling inside. Now Mr.Yano joins in,
and the two of them work together to wrap. They take their time preparing everything. Mr.Yano）I wonder if everyone will truly leave satisfied. To make that happen, instead of asking each person directly, we want them to say, “At that place, they did all this for this budget.” And even if they came reluctantly,
they’d go, “Actually, that was pretty good!” If they could take that memory home in their hearts— then maybe next time, they’d think of coming again with their family. That’s the kind of mindset we need when we cook. Even just the way carrots are cut— We can instantly tell just by looking. “This was cut with a mold,” or— “That was carefully done by hand with a knife.” Even bamboo shoots take time— They’re sliced that thin and used in the spring rolls. If people think about that— Then instead of buying frozen spring rolls, they might say, “That shop’s spring rolls are pricey, but…” “…let’s go there as a family just for that.” That’s the ongoing theme for us— something we deeply value and take pride in. “Making our customers happy.”
We pour that feeling into every handmade dish. Mr.Yano）This part is important. You have to fry them thoroughly so they don’t burst. Poking small air holes like this— Prevents bursting when they expand. Controlling the temperature is tricky. Actually, it’s better when it’s slightly hot like this. Separate them one by one. If they stick together, they might tear. Spring rolls are only half-cooked at first. Then they’re stored in the fridge. Once an order comes in, they’re fried again— until they’re perfectly golden brown. Fried to about this color. You probably won’t find these in Osaka. These are Kyoto-style spring rolls. And they’re long and narrow. Jumbo-sized! As you saw earlier, we’re particular about the filling inside too. The bamboo shoots are finely sliced. Wife）We’re wrapping up “spring” inside. Director）Wrapping up spring?
Wife）Yes. Bamboo shoots are a spring ingredient. Because we wrap bamboo shoots, it’s called a “spring roll.” You gotta wrap up spring! (laughs) Mr.Yano）I apprenticed in Kyoto’s Gion and learned everything there. So this recipe is straight from Takeka. But after I started my own business in Kameoka,
I created some new ideas— Like Kameoka Beef Garlic Fried Rice, for example. Takeka never had miso ramen either. They’ve become signature dishes with my own touch. We cut it into eight equal parts. Like this… Slice through swiftly like this. Then the cross-section turns out round. The knife is incredibly sharp too. And with that, it’s done. We enjoy it with mustard and soy sauce. (What I try to keep in mind is) reflection. After delivering a clean strike, you practice “zanshin.” In the past, in kendo— It originates from the sword. If you strike the opponent with a sword— —and assume they’re dead and let your guard down,
they could revive and strike back. Even after cutting them,
you stay alert in case they get back up. Even if you think the strike landed— You confirm, “Are they really down?” You must carry “zanshin,”
that life-or-death mindset of vigilance. So in our work too— Even when customers come for ramen or lunch, for example— It’s not just about serving it.
We must ensure the customer is truly satisfied. Make them feel, “Maybe I’ll come again.” If we fail, they might think,
“I won’t go to that place again.” Or worse—
They might start spreading bad reviews. We must work in a way
that such things don’t happen. Always carry “zanshin” in your work. Whether in cooking or customer service, it’s the same. Even in interactions,
we work with that mindset. People often say, “Cooking is about heart.” And it’s true—without genuine feeling, it won’t work. With “zanshin”—mindfulness toward the customer—
Mr.Yano continues to stand in the kitchen today. To prevent burning,
he covers it with foil and bakes again. Next, he checks on the simmered pork. Then he grills the other side of the roasted pork. He carefully removes the scum from the soup. Mr.Yano）Once it’s at this stage,
next is the vegetables. Onions, cabbage,
green onions, ginger, and carrot skins— All of them are simmered together. Director）Does your wife go out for morning shopping? Wife）Yes, Kameoka has amazing local vegetables. Mr.Yano）She goes around to many places
just to buy vegetables. Wife）I try to catch the special sale days
and go all over the place. Kyoto vegetables are truly delicious,
so I really want our customers to enjoy them. I do my best! Mr.Yano）In Kameoka, we call them “Kyoto vegetables.” So local vegetables are really popular too. And prices are a factor as well. Instead of sourcing from the central market, She goes here and there to get them for us. Wife）The vegetables support the flavor
of the master’s cooking. Even the same dish tastes much better— It really depends on the vegetables. The simmered pork is now complete. These are used as toppings for ramen or fried rice. Some people really like the fatty part in ramen— —for those customers, we use this simmered pork. The roasted pork is also ready. They use different cuts—simmered pork uses pork belly, while roasted pork uses thigh meat. Pork thigh meat. And this part is from the ribs. Mr.Yano）Alright, you two—
have a taste. We were kindly offered a sample tasting. He kneads the minced meat. Checking the temperature of the oil. Shaping the meat into balls and deep-frying them. Mr.Yano）We also have quick and easy meals
for those who are short on time. Just rice, a side dish, and soup is fine. Even if it’s 200 yen cheaper, that’s better for some. Also, I’m particular about the rice portion size. Some ask for “small,” or even less than that, or something in between regular and large. I listen carefully to each customer’s preference. Meatballs. Soy sauce, oyster sauce, sugar, black pepper,
and soup are simmered down. Add ketchup to the pan. Mix ketchup, doubanjiang, sugar, salt, and soup. Chili sauce. Son）It’s nice that the weather turned out good. This is a mix of oolong tea and jasmine tea. Just oolong tea by itself turns out a bit bitter— —and just jasmine tea feels a bit weak. A 60:40 or 70:30 mix is ideal. That ratio is easiest for Japanese people to drink. Coating the chicken in potato starch. First, deep-fry in high-temperature oil. Next, deep-fry slowly in low-temperature oil. Finally, fry once more in high-temperature oil
to give it a crispy finish. Writing the menu
is the son’s job. Today’s lunch:
(A) Chicken and onion with black pepper
(B) Shrimp and squid in chili sauce Separating the egg whites and yolks. Mr.Yano）If it’s just whole eggs— —adding some yolk makes it taste richer. Kanton-style fried rice
uses more egg yolk. Add rice and start stir-frying. Add salt. Carefully loosen the rice
as you stir-fry. Check the flavor. Prepare another batch of fried rice. Mr.Yano）When stir-frying,
you want to break up these clumps. But if you press too hard,
the rice grains will get crushed. A sushi chef once told me— If you press too hard when shaping sushi, you lose the airy texture. So instead of pressing tight,
you shape it gently. It’s the same for fried rice. If you stir-fry these clumps too hard, each grain of rice will be smashed. So stir gently and fluffily. But still, these clumps are not ideal. (The trick to prepping well is) First, loosen the rice well by hand— —and then stir-fry gently, gently,
and keep it fluffy. Don’t press too hard here. Pressing too much will ruin it. Loosen it up gently, like fluffing it apart. Turn on the heat for the noodle boiler and the gyoza grill. Mr.Yano’s daughter has arrived at work. Director）What is your role here? Daughter）Mostly ramen, I think. Director）And your father is cooking next to you?
Daughter）Yes, something like that. Director）Have you been helping out since a long time ago? Daughter）Yes, since way back. Now making the thick sauce
used for sweet and sour pork. Transfer it to a warming container. His wife is preparing the lunch boxes. Mr.Yano）My second son is now the floor manager. My daughter has a child,
so she drops them off at kindergarten and helps out just during lunch hours. The whole family runs the restaurant together
and supports Mr.Yano. Frying the pork used for sweet and sour pork. Adding starch mixed with water
to thicken the sauce. Lunch soup The pork is now fried. The restaurant is finally opening. The restaurant is a large, two-story building. Table seating Tatami seating Spacious banquet hall and private rooms available Son）Welcome, please come in. The first orders are coming in right away. Mr.Yano）Alright! OK! Deep-frying shrimp and squid. Mixing the shrimp and squid
with chili sauce. Shrimp and squid in chili sauce Mr.Yano）We’re particular about this Kujo green onion, too. For ramen, I use the white part. For fried rice, I use the green part. The white part has more aroma,
so it’s better for ramen. Slice it as thinly as possible. While warming the bowl,
boil quail eggs. Mr.Yano）As for the miso… It’s special red miso from Nagoya. This is used in the miso ramen. Put the base of the special miso ramen
into the pot. Mr.Yano）This is the sauce
for the miso ramen. Add minced meat, and of course, lots of soup. Add doubanjiang, sugar, and soy sauce
to season it. The key is to add minced pork
to the miso base. Add toppings to the bowl. Miso ramen Son）Excuse me. Here’s the ramen set. Ramen set Mix with the sweet vinegar sauce. Here is the Beijing lunch set. Beijing lunch Director）How does it taste?
Customer）The miso ramen is delicious. I’ve lived here in Kameoka for a long time. I think I’ve been coming here for about 20 years. I used to come often with my mother. I still think the miso ramen
is the most delicious. Especially in winter,
it tastes amazing. It really warms you up. Roast pork and ham Green onion Soy sauce Shaoxing wine Shrimp and squid in chili sauce Stir-fried chicken and onion with black pepper Wife）This rice from Kameoka
is really delicious. Our restaurant uses high-quality rice. It’s about the level of Koshihikari. We’re serving truly tasty rice. Serving freshly cooked rice Service Lunch B:
Shrimp and squid in chili sauce Service Lunch A:
Stir-fried chicken and onion with black pepper Gradually more and more
customers are arriving Many customers
order the lunch set The dishes
are being served one after another Son）Excuse me, here’s the daily lunch set. Male Customer）That’s a lot of dishes! Male Customer）This is amazing! Bamboo shoots and bean sprouts Green onions and char siu pork Mr.Yano goes down
to the underground storage for ingredients Mr.Yano）This is simmered pork
with vegetables Packing into lunch boxes Wife）One mini ramen Warm up the bowl Mr.Yano）I’m putting in the mini ramen Add the sauce base
and then pour in the soup Bamboo shoots and bean sprouts Green onions Top with char siu pork While cooking,
they also skim the soup The soup has become
beautifully clear Director）What’s the secret
to making the soup this clear? Mr.Yano）It’s skimming the fat frequently, and controlling the heat You must never let it boil too hard See how it’s gently bubbling? Like a gentle smile—
it should be quietly simmering The soup, too, should be warmed gently If it boils violently,
it means the soup is angry So we warm it gently,
as if it’s smiling Around lunchtime, more customers begin to arrive. Son）Two Beijing set meals with mini noodles, and one order of gyoza. Dish after dish is being completed. Gyoza being steamed and grilled. The sauce is replenished. Sweet and sour pork is coated in the sauce. The sweet and sour pork is packed. Next, rice is packed in. The lunch boxes are steadily completed. Wife）Lunch boxes must be ordered the day before. Director）Who ordered them today? Wife）An office worker. Director）It seems like you get a lot of orders.
Wife）Yes, that’s right. Well, it depends on the day. Seven lunch boxes are complete. They carry the lunch boxes outside. Gyoza is finished grilling. Gyoza. Almost every day. They have daily specials so I never get tired of it. The seasoning isn’t too strong. It’s easy to eat. It’s nutritionally balanced too. I tend to eat only what I like, but— Here, I can choose and eat balanced meals. So I never get tired of the food. If I ask for it to be less spicy— They make it mild for me. If I tell them what I don’t like beforehand— They make it without those ingredients. Customer）Thank you for the meal~ Staff）Thank you very much. The lunch service begins to wind down. Customer）（The coffee is）an extra 300 yen. Director）Is having coffee part of the lunch experience? Customer）Exactly! It’s best to drink it here. It tastes the best after the meal. After lunch, coffee brings a moment of bliss. Mr.Yano）This was from Mr. Kazuhiko Tei. It was about 20 years ago. I told him it was Kanton’s 20th anniversary— It happened to be during his visit to Kanton. He said, “Then I’ll write something for you.” He gave me this landscape painting and message. It’s such a great piece of writing— I reread it often as a reminder of my roots. Mr.Yano）The person who influenced me the most was… Mr.Yano）I was also greatly influenced by Mr. Kazuhiko Tei. Every time he published a new book—dozens of them— he would say, “Mr.Yano, read this and learn,” and always gave them to me as gifts. Of course, whenever Mr. Tei had business in Kameoka, he’d stop by here. And when I went to Umeda in Osaka, I’d visit his restaurant. I became close with his entire family—his mother, his wife, everyone. During the Hanshin earthquake, we did volunteer food service together. He was a person of significant influence. I also learned a lot about cooking— he would suggest dishes, saying, “How about this?” or “How about that?” He always emphasized the importance of learning and improvement. Thanks to his guidance, I continued to listen and learn. I still need to keep studying—cooking is like that. It’s not exactly a path, but in a way, my own path stretches endlessly. I believe the road of cooking truly has no end.
So I keep trying new ideas. Even now, watching TV or YouTube can still teach me new things. I find myself thinking, “Oh, there’s a way to do it like that too.” I often rediscover things and have moments of realization. 55 years devoted to cooking—Mr. Yano’s culinary journey continues on. Preparations begin for the dinner service. Finely carving into the carrots. Mr.Yano）This one looks like a snowflake. Shaped like a snowflake. Shaped like a hawk. Next, preparing the shumai. Wrapping the filling with skins. Here, the son is wrapping dumplings. Each one is carefully hand-wrapped. Director）About how many dumplings do you prepare in a day? Son）A million dumplings a day! Just kidding, of course. (laughs) We don’t make dumplings every day. We prepare them about once every three days. We make around 50 servings at a time. And that lasts for about three days. Director）How many in a serving? Son）Eight dumplings per serving. They’re small, bite-sized dumplings. Director）So around 400 to 500 per batch? Son）Yeah, about 400 to 500. Director）Besides cabbage, what else is in them? Son）Pork and garlic chives. A little garlic, but not too much. So they’re really light in flavor. Light dumplings. The steamed shumai is ready. Shumai. Mr.Yano）I want to keep working for another 10 years. Until I’m 80. My kids have become a real help lately. They’ve been showing interest in cooking too. But there are still times when they need me around. Director）Until you’re 80? Mr.Yano）Yes, I plan to work until I’m 80. Thankfully, I’m still in good health. Though my hearing’s gotten a bit worse. So I’ve started leaving phone calls and customer service to my sons. Because I’ve had some trouble in those areas. But my sense of taste is still sharp. My legs, back, and hands are still strong enough for the wok. Director）You really love Chinese cuisine, huh? Mr.Yano）I love Chinese cuisine. Just recently, I went to “Gion Morikō,” a Cantonese place in Kyoto. Had beer in the afternoon, and Shaoxing wine too. We ate things like jellyfish and bang bang chicken. And spent the whole time talking about the old days. That kind of thing is one of my joys. It’s enjoyable and a great learning experience, too. We asked Mr. Yano, who aims to work until he’s 80, about his thoughts. If I had to say what’s important, First and foremost, it’s customer satisfaction. It’s the customers who evaluate the price, the taste, and the speed, and also the hospitality. That’s all judged by the customer. My second son mainly handles the floor. Even in how we serve tea, we’re particular. In the morning, we blend oolong and jasmine tea, serve it a little hot, thinking about the ideal temperature. Even after customers finish eating, he takes care of them diligently. That level of satisfaction is what we value the most. But that alone isn’t enough. Those who work here need a sense of purpose, fulfillment, and place. They need to feel, “This is my role in the restaurant.” Staff satisfaction is also very important. You’ve probably heard the term “Sanpō Yoshi” (three-way satisfaction). It means customers, employees, and vendors must have mutual trust. So things run smoothly and everyone can be satisfied. That’s what I always try to focus on. It’s not just Chinese cuisine today, but across Japan and in Kyoto Prefecture, the working population is steadily declining. People like me in our 60s and 70s— I’m still healthy and able to work, so I’ll keep going until I collapse. But most office workers, after retirement, just live on their pension. That’s why the burden on Japan is getting heavier. We need more children and a future where the next generation can support the country. This issue isn’t just about Japan, but even Kyoto and Kameoka. So we see it as a major issue. While taking care of the staff we have now, we also have to think about new workers—this isn’t just for Kanton but a broader issue. My own parents passed away decades ago.
My wife’s parents too. But our three children are healthy and well. Every few years, we hold a family gathering. This place has a tatami room and lots of food. So we gather, drink beer, and catch up. It keeps the family bond strong and harmonious. As the head of the family, I try to do my best to maintain peace and security for everyone. I work with all this in mind. Mr.Yano）I look forward to having you visit. Thank you. Please stay well. Thank you very much.

【店舗情報】
店名: 中華料理 広東
地図: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Pr4THYmwr3G6uRhV8
住所: 京都府亀岡市安町野々神４７
HP: https://kanton-kyoto.com/

【チャプター】
0:00 ダイジェスト
0:47 本編
1:21 店主紹介
1:29 スープの仕込み
2:17 店主の経歴、苦労した思い出
3:54 煮豚と焼豚の仕込み
4:37 京都の中華料理文化、矢野さん独自の料理
6:02 “竹香“から受け継いだ春巻き作り　タケノコのカット
7:37 春巻きの具材の仕込み
9:29 春巻きの生地作り
11:34 春巻きの皮を焼く
14:09 春巻きを包んでいく
16:12 仕事に対する想い
17:32 春巻きを揚げていく
19:41 春巻きの実食
21:10 矢野さんの“残心”の哲学について
22:53 焼豚と煮豚の仕込み
24:14 奥様が出勤されました
24:41 京野菜について
25:19 焼豚と煮豚が完成、試食
26:59 肉団子の仕込み
29:03 息子さんが出勤されました
30:59 チャーハンの仕込み
35:44 娘さんが出勤されました
38:26 開店、メニュー紹介
39:40 エビとイカのチリソースの調理
40:39 味噌ラーメンの調理
43:15 お客様インタビュー①
43:55 チャーハンの調理
45:53 鶏肉と玉葱の黒胡椒炒め
52:27 スープ作りのコツ
53:51 お弁当の準備
55:43 お客さんインタビュー②
57:26 程一彦さんからの贈り物
57:57 影響を受けた人物について、料理道は果てしない
59:29 人参の飾り切り
1:01:41 餃子作り
1:03:17 店主様インタビュー

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