June 11, 2006 Day 04: Yamadera & Takahata

Yamadera is a scenic temple located in the mountains northeast of Yamagata City. The temple grounds extend high up a steep mountainside, from where there are great views down onto the valley. The temple was founded over a thousand years ago in 860 as a temple of the Tendai sect under the official name Risshakuji. Its popular name, Yamadera, literally means “mountain temple” in Japanese. The base of the mountain is located about a five minute walk from the Yamadera train station, and there are several shops and restaurants, which cater to the temple’s visitors.

To reach the upper area of the temple grounds, visitors must hike up a trail that leads up the mountainside. The ascent takes about 30 minutes and 1,015 steps. There are stone lanterns and small statues in the surrounding forest along the way that make for an atmospheric hike. One of Yamadera’s most famous buildings, the Kaizando Hall and the smaller, adjacent Nokyodo building are located up and to the left of the gate. The Kaisando Hall is dedicated to the temple’s founder, Jikaku Daishi, while the Nokyodo was used for copying sutra. Past the Kaisando Hall, there are more stairs that lead up to the Godaido Hall, an observation deck with the best views onto the valley below.

Takahata is a small town situated in the southern part of Yamagata prefecture. Surrounded by mountains, Takahata is blessed with a mild climate and abundant precipitation throughout the year, making it suitable for agriculture. With the opening of the Yamagata Shinkansen in 1992, access to Takahata from Tokyo became much easier, as there are now direct trains.

The 10-km-long “Mahoroba Ryokudo (Greenway)” is a greenway developed on the site of the former Yamagata Kotsu Takahata Line, a railroad that was discontinued in 1974. Bicycles can be rented at Takahata Station complete the trip in 2 to 3 hours. Cyclists often relax at the Taiyokan Onsen (hot springs bath) at the end of their visit, and some even stay the night at the onsen hotel. Both, hotel and onsen, are part of the station complex, making it convenient for tourists travelling by train.

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