WHO DID DIOR DIRTY?

16 Comments

1. 

   Rich Mitch 5年 ago

   Good question 🤔

2. 

   Robert Valiullin 5年 ago

   I ain't diggin' DIOR lately, it has come down to a trend following, street style wannabe, mediocre "fashionista" brand. It is not just a matter "the grass was greener" or nostalgia — no. They are squeezing and twisting the legacy. That ain't no good. I will simply ignore this house completely.

3. 

   Juniorverse 5年 ago

   Actually, they BOTH used the same Club 69 single “Diva” (Pier Queen Mix) tailored to their name. Only difference is Mugler did it in 95 and Dior did it in 20. Who cares?

   https://youtu.be/76e14YfZU2A

4. 

   wario204 5年 ago

   To me Dior menswear was nice and exciting in the first couple collections. But now it seems they’re just doing the same pieces but with artist prints on it. I like the look but not the prices they’re charging for. But Maria really is not doing it for me in Dior at all. I like some of the tarot card designs but it’s just over all not elegant like raf did for Dior

5. 

   The First Lady of M 5年 ago

   Anything LVMH touches……. 🤮

6. 

   J T 5年 ago

   dior man is all about logos and other artists work now, nothing to do with mr kim jones

7. 

   Jason Martinez 5年 ago

   Can’t believe I missed this live! I would love to hear more about this topic about Kim jones, Virgil, Maria, and the state of designers in your opinion. Loved the video. 🖤

8. 

   M K 5年 ago

   HI Dacob,
   Sorry, couldn't be really responsive the other night coz I was sooooooo sleepy😴 ( I had to wake up early for work only a few hours later) that it was difficult to even concentrate in order listen to you (1st time in my 3-year career as a fashion bunker's analyst). I think I definitely fell asleep after watching you eating candies! 🍬🍭🍫When I woke up, I found out you ended your stream by 6 am, Paris time! Waouh! You do really like to run marathon, don't you???
   BTW, while waiting for you to get ready, we (your European members) were complaining about the stream being set on a week night and not on a week-end. Such a shame coz we can't be at 100% for the bunker on weekdays! Hopefully, you won't get offended, it is just a feedback! 😅
   Thierry Mugler getting upset because Kim Jones replicated his show from the early 1990s? Give me a break! Every labels get inspiration and pay homage to each other, it's not a flash!
   Your audience don't like the contributions of Maria Grazia C and Kim Jones, neither do I! It is not the type of fashion/ trend I am sensitive to. But, we shouldn't be misled; fashion is an arty business industry but by no means an art form. Those 2 got hired coz the label needs to sell fast and make as much money as possible. How? By giving to their clients what they want: big logos, artificial crappy collaborations/ limited editions, extortionate priced street wear/ gangsta accessories with even bigger branding, worn by a certain type of "influencers"… The message I am trying to convey is that their customers don't care about how well designed and made your Adidas pieces are, they just want the big DIOR logo!
   The other day, I and a 60 year-old Hermès expert (a very knowledgeable gentleman with great and awfully elegant taste à la Lanier Smith type), tried to explain to a" Millenial", the philosophy behind Hermès menswear by Véronique Ninchaian (very traditional French, e.g. humble designs in appearance but with countless hidden details) and that there were also so many equally good if not better bags than the Birkin, Kelly and Constance within the maison's offer. But the dude didn't want to understand anything: he blames Hermès PAP for being very redundant, and just wanted more daring and crazy designs à la Dior by Kim Jones or Louis Vuitton by Virgile…. We kept shouting : "what you want is not Hermès!!! " 😱👎but it was a lost cause, none the less, the discussion was very instructive.
   We had already discussed about this subject during Chanel's last P/E runaway. The time when designers used to educate their clientele about new designs and pushing boundaries is long long gone. In the meantime, financial investors have joined in, the customers and their purchase motives are totally different from what they used to be and most and foremost, there are a way too much DINERO at stake to even attempt to be audacious!!!!
   Last wednesday, when I went to 31 rue Cambon to scavenge freebies, I paid a visit to the Dior new giant boutique just a few steps away on rue saint Honoré. I couldn't stay more than 10 minutes there: everything was so artificial, listening to their SAs talking with their customers who were on that particular day only locals, was a real real pain. You remember the guy who called you names on the plane en route to Nice? It was those type of loud dudes who speak this type of vulgar French slang… Don't get me wrong, I am far from being a snob but this kind of behavior and language? I can't, I just can't, never ever could as far as I remember and will never be able to stand it….Louis Vuitton has also the exact same type of clientele by the way, Chanel 19 rue Cambon is also starting to lure those type of dudes.
   A few years ago, I had a dinner with some middle-aged/ old ladies who used to run some designers multi-brands shops in different areas of France (mostly the towns' areas mentioned on your cardigan's back😜). They have all given up: they can't stand nowadays designs, and they didn't want to adapt to the digital revolution. They couldn't imagine keep doing this business without the physical interaction with the cliente, which implies education, attention and anticipation.
   I might shock you but as much as I loved Galliano's haute couture creations and shows mise en scène during his time at Dior, yet I wasn't really fond of his PAP, which I happen to know quite well, since most of my female cousins used to be crazy about Dior in the late 1990s/ 2000s. Although the intentions were interesting, the outfits, accessories and shoes did look, feel and fit very awkward, and most of the pieces from that era (especially the gaucho designs or anything with those giant buckles) do sadly and predictably not stand the test of time.
   Conversely, I still wear most of the pieces I had purchased during Hedi Slimane's era and some particular collection from KVA.
   Looking forward to watching new videos from last thursday's stream! XOXO❤️😷😘

9. 

   Andrew Evans 5年 ago

   Truth!!!!!(and the delicious scarab🖤).

10. 

    Aspa Diamanti 5年 ago

    Thanks again for this valuable information! Could you do a video with the best "vintage" perfumes that are still available on the market and are still good, despite their reformulations? For example, addict EDP, Poison EDT, Chanel no 5 parfum or whatever you think is worth it?

11. 

    Anja Prachtstueckwerk 5年 ago

    You didn´t design it girl! 👍👍👍

12. 

    Andrew Becerra 5年 ago

    THE ONLY WAY DIOR’S HORRIBLE BARELY PULSING BRAND CAN BE REVIVED IS IF THEY IMMEDIATELY REHIRE GALLIANO AND PUT THE SECOND CD AS DACOB. A DACOB X GALLIANO X DIOR COLLAB WOULD BE AMAZING

13. 

    Kipras Vekteris 5年 ago

    amazing you told a lot of truths about Dior husband fashion 🙂
    For me personally Maria Grazia has a better understanding of the cultural essence of style and fashion, and Kim Jones makes street fashion if not Dior he could work freely with nike or something like that, Dior is the house that buys anything but doesn’t pay for the name but pays for quality, it makes up ideas work.
    I worked as a Dior myself, as an assistant and I realized that a lot of people don't like Kim Joones, now I work at Chanel fashion house, there I would be better off😍

14. 

    Ivan Mouraviev 5年 ago

    Dear Dacob,

    Once again, thank you for your very elaborate thoughts on what seems to be a recurrent subject in the realm of fashion. I personally find it very sad that from year to year the dynamic remains the same, as a majority of designers chooses the easy road of prefering a logomania-on-everything approach, only to dictate the insecure customer what they think they need to buy.

    Instead of offering real design, their objective is in fact to pull off hashtag-relevant gimmicks and other pathetic runway stunts, so as to be a talking point for brainwashed customers who will buy the products shown just to show everybody else that they "get the joke".

    What I find also particularly cringe-worthy is how all of them proclaim in unison that they honor the history or founder of their respective brands, when in reality they merely pay lip service to their adoptive house's "legacy" by pushing their own agendas and camouflaging the DNA of said brand behind what they want milennials or Asian shoppers to purchase.

    In fact what they strive to do is the contrary – as 99% of modern day consumers don't care at all about a maison's past or its history (the only exceptions being people like you Dacob, which sadly confirms the general rule), while at the same time relying on the same old bread-and-butter products to pay the bills (mostly bags, shoes and other accessories).

    At the end of the day, these "designers" know that their days at the helm of the house they are working for are counted, and that they couldn't hold a handle to the founding fathers of modern fashion or to real designers for that matter, such as for example somebody like Alexander McQueen back in the day.

    Based on these observations, we are left with some essential questions: when will we see genuine ideas, and not ugly/fake status symbols influencers swoon at for one season before moving to the next IT-item ? And most importantly, will those brands have to lose money and see their revenue plummet before we witness a pradigm change ?

15. 

    Kate E F 3年 ago

    Revisiting a gem! 🎉

16. 

    Melissa 3年 ago

    At an art exhibit in my city about the painter Boldini, there was also an haute couture Dior (Galliano era) dress. A masterpiece, a beautiful work of art that resembled in such a poetic way the dresses seen in the paintings and also it was a true representation and personal interpretation of the legacy of Dior. Not a copycat, not a wannabe fashion.