Electric motor doesn’t work, won’t spin up, or won’t start? Here’s some answers to what might be wrong, and how to fix it!

Having trouble with the single-phase induction motor in your woodworking or metalworking machine? This video will guide you through a troubleshoot of an electric motor and get you back up and running in no time. Repair it yourself with this hands-on video!

0:00 Intro
0:48 The Working Parts
1:33 Capacitor Inspection & Testing
3:19 Centrifugal Switch & Contact Plate Inspection and Adjustment
5:45 Test Run
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31 Comments

  1. I have a MODEL G0501
    SLIDING TABLE SAW and scoring I raised it a lot and I can no longer lower it, I appreciate that you could help me

  2. Great video. If the centrifugal switch is not releasing would this cause for the motor to draw higjer current. My motor runs approximately 3amp and i have found when the switch is not opening the current jumps to 22amps. The problem was a dead capacitor which i feel was the cause from the centrifugal switch not realeasing when motor on. I find that the switch only doesn't release when the load is on the motor. Any help to diagnose is appreciated. Cheers

  3. I just replaced a bad run cap on a used 1.5 hp 115/220v motor I just got. It free ran without any load for about 2 minutes and then the cap blew.. I havent found much info on why they blow.. Hum.. Suggestions? Thank you.

  4. This video is only one that I could find on YouTube that shows how to adjust the centrifugal switch. Great job of explaining how to test the capacitor too and thank you for showing how to adjust the centrifugal switch. Your video is clear and easy to understant.

  5. What are two types of multi speed motors that are used for air circulation on a furnace?

  6. I had the same problem with a different make of motor, same principle though.
    I Cleaned the points which other than being dirty were fine. Now now air compressor works just fine. I talked with a gentleman about my problem, as soon as I turned the switch on the circuit breaker blew I thought the capacitors were bad. They were good. The gentleman told me about the points and said if they are dirty or bad that could be tripping the breaker . I guess he was correct cause after I cleaned the points it's working just fine

  7. Thank you. Following your directions, it was an easy fix to adjust the switch. Now my 1980's Jet drill press works like new.

  8. Air compressor 5hp motor very little smoke came out of the vents just right after I started it. I just it off right away, wondering if it’s fixable without replacing motor

  9. HAAAALLLLP 😂😂😂 please. I wish I could afford one of your companies cabinet saws, I’ve wanted one since I first seen one years ago! One of these days it’ll happen. If failing equipment doesn’t tank my business first…. Or keep taking what I try and save to get a grizzly!!!! I know it’s not your company but I can’t get a lick of help from Ridgid, I am just a one woman show and I my orders are just so backed up at this point I am a complete stress mess. I have a Ridgid R4512, gonna try and give as much info as I can hopefully someone can help me diagnose. So it just started making a loud rattling noise starts instantly when turned on continues after start up but instantly stops when I turn it off, and the arbor is still spinning/winding down. And kinda seems like it starts to loose power as well. Also when I felt the motor it felt pretty hot, but can still touch and leave hand there without it even being uncomfortable so not sure if that’s just normal, when this happened I was ripping strips for trellises and had been running steady for only appx 3-4 min maybe. I also ripped strips for some trim about 10 or 15 min before steadily for also only about 5min . Did not smell how ever and I got my head in the back panel and gave a good few sniffs by the motor.(yes it was unplugged) I’m pretty sure it’s something with motor though. Anyways Took off blade still made same noise. Took the belt off still made same noise. Pulled cover off capacitors, made sure they were discharged, and then for the life of me could not and still cannot find my damn multimeter🙄🙄🙄 at first glance they seem fine, I don’t see any bloating/bulging? Not sure what you’d call that. There is nothing leaking from them either. I’m not really sure if they would cause this noise or not, but checking the microfarads is still on my to do once I can find, borrow or buy another meter. I’m just hoping someone might know what causes that kind of noise and point me in the right direction. Also wondering if I’m gonna have to take the whole damn thing apart to get the motor out? Because I’m not seeing anyway to, without doing that, 😭😭😭 I spent freaking hours getting everything calibrated and fined tuned to basically perfection, I’m ocd as hell about having things like the measuring/angle guides, blades, and fence being correct. Anyways if it’s not the capacitors only thing I know to do is check the centrifugal switch, then onto the bearings and armature 😭😭😭thing is. Although seems pretty similar I’ve never worked on any electrical motor as new as this one and I’m feeling in intimidated as hell, if it were an old one I think I’d just jump right in, but these newer ones are just built cheap and I’m afraid I’m gonna mess it up more

  10. I had this same problem on my old Grizzly G1023 table saw. It would not start and only made a very slight buzzing noise when I pressed the start button. However, it was not a bad capacitor or a switch problem. After testing the capacitor I decided to open the small cover plate on the motor that covers the junction of the power supply cord to the motor’s wiring. I found that one of the orange wire nut covers appeared to be burnt a bit. When I started to twist it off, it was loose and the two wires had very little left connecting one to the other. I stripped a bit more cover off the wires and used a new wire nut cover to connect them and a bit of electrical tape and thankfully that fixed the problem. The saw started right up!

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