【自作PC】Ryzen＆RADEONで総額20万円のゲーミングPC

【自作PC】Ryzen＆RADEONで総額20万円のゲーミングPC

Hello, this is Nosuke. I attended ASKFES in April and was personally quite shocked by how cool the traditional home-built PCs were! 、 パワーウインドウ English: Until now I’ve only built unusual PCs so to be honest, I haven’t been very interested in traditional homemade PCs, but I’ve decided to change my mind, so this time I’m going to try to build a traditional homemade PC. My approach is something like this: First of all, I’ll focus on looks, aiming for a cool homemade PC. Next, it’ll be a gaming PC that I can also stream on . I ‘ve recently started live streaming, so I want it to have the performance to run games and stream at the same time. From a religious perspective, I’ll use red team parts, which means I’ll use Ryzen and RADEON. Finally, I’ll keep my budget to 200,000 yen or less. Well, I think this is the strictest. If my budget was unlimited, I could just combine any parts I wanted, but I’m not an oil tycoon so I have a limit to my budget. I’m a low-tier YouTuber, so I’ve set it at 200,000 yen. While I was browsing the internet with this in mind, I found something great: a homemade PC configuration checker on a website called Cost Performance. It’s a great tool that allows you to consider the configuration while taking into account performance and cost. So, let’s get started with it. The first thing to decide is the PC case. The best part of building a PC is the appearance, isn’t it? And the most important thing in terms of looks is the case, so I’ll start by deciding on the case . For the PC case, I want to use this one! There is a case called LIAN LI’s A3-mATX. It was released about a year ago, but recently a model with a glass side panel was added . What’s good about this case is that it’s small. The pillarless cases that are popular these days look cool, but because they are dual chambers, they are quite wide at about 30cm, so I hesitate to put it on a desk. In comparison, the A3-mATX has a conservative layout, but it is about 20cm wide, so I think it’s about the limit if you want to put it on a desk. Also, I said it has a conservative layout, but since the power supply is placed behind the front panel, the height is kept to about 30cm. And yet it is compatible with a 360mm radiator and a graphics card up to 415mm, so I think it is a very well-made case. So I decided on the A3-mATX. The price is 17,000, which is a bit expensive, but this time I’m prioritizing appearance, so I’ll accept it… The next thing to consider is the graphics card, which is a bit expensive. One requirement for a graphics card is that you should be able to stream while playing games. Cost-effectiveness. There is a page on how to choose a graphics card, and looking at it, it seems that many games support Full HD. To achieve 60fps, a PassMark score of 10,000 or more is required, and if you are encoding video, a PassMark score of 16,000 or more is required, and to use the generation AI, it seems that 12GB or more of VRAM is best , so I will choose a graphics card taking these factors into consideration.Clicking the GPU button will bring up a list of graphics cards like this.Since I am in the red group, I select AMD as the vendor, a PassMark score of 16,000 or more , and 12GB or more of memory , and sort them by cheapest, which looks like this.The cheapest card that meets the criteria is the ASRock RX 7700 XT Challenger at 59,000 yen.Graphics cards are really expensive… There is also the SAPPHIRE RX 7600 XT GAMING at a similar price , but this is a cheaper version with a 128-bit memory bus, so it is not cost-effective.Although it is about 10,000 yen more expensive, I also chose the ASRock Phontom Gaming, which has triple fans.Both are two-slot thick, so there should be no problem installing them in a case.Next is the CPU I’ll consider what kind of CPU I should get. When I asked ChatGPT how good the performance of the CPU is, it looked like this . If I’m just playing games, 6 cores are enough, but if I’m going to do video editing or 3D, 8 cores or more would be better, so I clicked the CPU button to display a list. Since the manufacturer is the red team, I selected AMD. Considering future expandability, I selected the AM5 socket. Since I wanted a CPU with 8 cores or more, I selected Ryzen 7 from the series and sorted it by cheapest, which looks like this. The cheapest one that meets the criteria is the Ryzen 7 8700F , but the 8000 series only has 8 lanes of PCIe for the graphics card, so I’ve excluded it this time , so the 7700 plain, which has 16 lanes of PCIe for the graphics card , would be the cheapest. Also, I might have some room in my budget, so I’ve included the 9700X, which is the latest but extremely cheap, as a candidate . Next is the motherboard. Since the case is small this time, I can only choose ITX or M-ATX form factors . First, I looked into ITX, which has more space in the case, and came up with the GIGABYTE A620I. The AX is the cheapest at 26,000 yen . Hmm , but this is expensive… Let’s select it as a candidate for now and check out the M-ATX. As expected of a mainstream product, the M-ATX is more than 10,000 yen cheaper. The cheapest is the ASUS PRIME A620M-K-CSM, but please pretend you didn’t see this because it wasn’t on sale when I ordered it and it was 10,800 yen a week ago… So the cheapest was the MSI PRO A620M-E and B650M-E are the same price, so B650 is a better chipset, so I will choose that one. I might be able to use the included CPU cooler, so I’ll leave that aside and think about memory. I will be using an AM5 motherboard, so I will choose DDR5 memory. I will be using video editing and 3D CAD, so I will choose 16GB instead of two 32GB. The price difference between manufacturers is small, so I will choose Crucial, which has fewer compatibility issues. If you sort by cheapest, it looks like this. DDR5 memory generates a lot of heat, so I would like to buy one with a heatsink if possible , so I will choose the cheapest one with a heatsink and a transfer speed of 5600MHz. Next, I will choose an SSD. I will choose the M.2 Type2280 based on size and the capacity will be the minimum 1TB. WesternGigital is a manufacturer that I think is reliable. If you sort by cheapest, it looks like this . If you consider reliability, you can exclude Green and Blue. Furthermore, if you are using it for the C drive, I think it is better to have DRAM included, so I chose the WD Black SN850X. Next , I will choose a case fan. This time, I am considering intake from the bottom and exhaust from the top, so You will need a triple fan with an opposite flow direction to the normal triple fan with an outflow direction . The manufacturer is LIAN LI to match the case. I chose 120mm for the fan size. As expected from LIAN LI, it is expensive, but this time I was prioritizing appearance so I wanted to match the manufacturer. After that it is a matter of preference, I wanted it to shine a little so I chose a triple fan with a glowing frame. The fans alone cost 25,000 yen… hmm, lastly the power supply. The DIY PC Configuration Checker page has a calculation for the recommended power supply capacity at the bottom so I will use this as a reference when choosing a power supply. For this configuration a power supply of 625W or more would be good. For the power supply capacity I selected 700W or more, which is an option . Since the case is small and I want the power supply to be as small as possible, I selected SFX as the compatible standard. Since the side panel is glass and you can see the inside, unnecessary cables don’t look good, so I selected Yes as a plug-in. If you rearrange them in order of cheapest, it looks like this. The cheapest is the LIAN LI SP750 at 19,000 yen. If you change the compatible standard to ATX it would be about half the price, but since appearance is more important I want to avoid a mess of cables with ATX so I will select this even though it is a bit expensive. Finally, I will select Windows 11. When I added the home model and checked the total price, it was 241,650. It was obviously impossible to get it under 200,000 yen… so I will change to the cheaper option. I changed the CPU from a 9700X to a plain 7700 , changed the graphics card from a triple fan to a dual fan, and changed the motherboard from an ITX to an ATX. When I checked the total price with this, it was 201,706 . No good! But please forgive me… I mean , a week before I ordered it, the same configuration was just under 200,000 yen… I don’t know what caused the price increase, but it seems that the prices on this DIY PC configuration checker are updated from time to time , so I ordered the parts for a configuration that was just under 200,000 yen. It took about a week for all the parts to be ready. Here’s how the parts are lined up. This is the total for 200,000 yen , so let’s start assembling it. First, the case. LIAN LI’s A3-mATX. The glass panel on the side of the mesh panel can be removed with one touch. The ceiling panel can be removed by loosening the mounting screws. The front panel can be removed with one touch. Mesh is attached to the back of the wood grain. It seems to have better ventilation than the plain plastic model that is not wood grain. The screws are in small bags and come with a box, which is nice. The power supply goes in from the back and is carried to the front with this cord. This is the power supply folder. This is the plate for installing the 2.5-inch SSD. When you disassemble it all, it looks like this. The construction was quite good. Next, we will install the power supply. LIAN LI’s SP750Ah , it’s so cute, so small, you can’t see the full plug-in 80 gold
750W ! Ah, it looks good, it’s well made and has a hairline finish, it looks cool , it’s a mix of mesh type and regular rubber type, it would have been better if they had all been mesh type … the screws here are interfering with each other, it’s going to bend, and if I put this on like this, it’s going to be too open, it’s not cool… it’s a bit tricky… I’m probably using it wrong, but this makes the LIAN LI mark straighter and it looks neater, so I decided to attach it like this, it ‘s probably only these two places that are attached to the iron plate , so it’s a bit questionable in terms of rigidity, but… if I tighten the screws tightly, it should be fine! This one probably looks coolerIt ‘s better if you can see LIAN LI properlyThe problem is that the space between it and the motherboard is narrow, so will the cables be attached properly? Well, let’s take a look at this for a bitNext , we’ll install the motherboardAh, wow , it looks like a really cheap one… SimpleThere ‘s not even a heatsink on the VRM … Is this just one M.2 card … There ‘s no M.2 on the back either … Hmm, I see… Only one M.2 card… It only takes two memory cardsAmazing , look at this, young people probably don’t knowThis is called a PS2, a PS2, it’s amazing it’s been a while since I’ve seen thisThe CPU is a Ryzen 7 7700Line up the triangle with the triangle on the motherboard , then just place it , close the lid and put the lever backInstall the memoryThere are only two slots for memory so there’s no way to get lostJust be careful of the position of the notch and insert the memoryInsert it until you hear a clickSSD 1. There is only one place for the SSD to attach, so attach it here. Hold it at an angle, insert it all the way in and attach the screw. Finally, we use a type of CPU cooler grease called MX-6 . Just spread it out roughly and you’re good to go. Attach the cooler. Fasten the fasteners here and then fasten the other side , and then press this lever a little (down the cooler) while fastening it, and you’re good to go. CPUFAN1 (connector) is here , so connect this cable to CPUFAN1. It looks like this. It looks bad if the cables are visible in all sorts of places, so I’ve attached them by tangling them in all sorts of places so that they’re not visible. There was an RGB jumper here , so I’m going to use the wires from the RGB jumper. If I run the wires through the front, they’ll sag and look bad, so I’m running the wires through the back. This completes the preparation for the motherboard. Don’t forget to attach the back panel before installing the motherboard. Install the motherboard . There is a gap between this motherboard and the bottom It’s quite small . Also, when attaching the fan , I think you won’t be able to attach it properly unless you attach the jumper here first . Let’s attach the cables. Next, plug the 24-pin into the CPU 4-pin connector . You can’t see it. Next, we’ll wire the front panel. If you look closely at the position of the holes, you’ll know which jumper to plug into, so look closely at the position of these holes. It looks like this at the moment , and next we’ll attach the fan. First, the upper fan , this is the controller . The fan looks like this . Is this, ah, Daisy Tune? Or Easy Tune? Here, first put the top in place, then slide it from the bottom and it fits snugly. Slide it from the bottom . Yes, it went in firmly. It’s such a good bearing. A good fan these days feels really solid when you turn it. There’s no rattle or anything. I’m going to install the fan. It went in like this . The pad is rubber and it will get crushed as you tighten it, but if you tighten it too much, the plastic part will come into contact with the metal and it will vibrate , so I only tightened it lightly until the rubber deforms a little. Then I plugged this into the front. Ah, I should have done it after plugging it in. I plan to attach the controller to the back of this power supply. UNI FAN REVERSE BLADE REVERSE BLADEReverseSo the wind comes out this way (towards the top of the screen) So it should be fine to install it as isThere is no flow direction written on itIf you look at the shape of the blades, they’re pointed on this side (left) , so they rotate this way (counterclockwise) So the wind comes out from this way (from the back to the front) , so I guess you can understand… There’s this mysterious plate here which is in the way so I ‘ll remove it.There was a mysterious plate attached earlierWell it’s fineWell , it looks like thisWell , the space is certainly a bit narrow with M-ATXBack wiring… Well, you could call it back wiring, since there isn’t enough space to run wiring here, but there is quite a bit of space behind this SFX power supply, so I’m thinking of putting the LIAN LI controller and other things around hereCHALLENGERThis side is plastic and this is probably aluminum, right? I think it’s aluminum , and I just noticed that I didn’t need it… If there was another PCIe slot on the motherboard, it would fit without a problem, but this one is attached below, so I can’t fit it like this… This is a problem… What should I do… I have no choice but to remove the fan … It looks bad if there are three fans on top and one on the bottom… Should I remove it, the one below… I only have this one bottom fan. If I remove this fan, the wires that are bundled here will be visible, so I wonder if it’s okay to leave it here. I was able to install it just barely without interfering with the fan. Anyway, it only sucks in and expels air from the bottom, so it should be fine. Also , I ended up with one extra fanCome to think of it, I forgot to attach the intake fan here, so let’s attach thisThis will connect to this fanIt wouldn’t be good to attach this and this (a two-pronged wire) hereAnyway , it’s doneI used as much of the space behind this power supply to bundle the wires togetherThis is what it looks like from the frontIt ‘s pretty sparseSince I made the power supply SFX, there was a lot of space left over and it ended up being pretty sparseHmm … Lastly, there was a graphics card bracket attached so I ‘ll attach thisThere ‘s a magnet on the back so if you put this underneath it will click into placeThat’s itYup, it should be fineAttach the bottom mesh and attach the front panelTop panelBack panelFront panelIt looks like thisThe switch is hereOh ! It lit upHuh ? This one’s the only one that’s not lit up, why? Is it a bad connection? RGB LEDs are illuminated when the light is off. English: The BIOS was also successfully installed . I will install Windows 11 and install and configure various drivers. First, in the BIOS DRAM Settings, select EXPO Profile 1. Set the transfer speed to 5600MHz. Save and restart. Use CPU-Z to confirm that the memory transfer speed is set to 5600MHz. Initially, I thought I would control the CPU cooler’s RGB with the motherboard, but MSI’s software seemed difficult to use, so I decided to control it with RYZEN RGB SOFTWARE. With this software, you can set colors separately for the ring, fans, and logo. I changed the RGB wiring for the CPU cooler to a USB connection. I will then control the LIAN LI RGB with L-CONNECT 3. The only RGB that wasn’t lit was when I changed the number of connected fans in Settings, and it started to light up. The LIAN LI software has a sophisticated and easy-to-understand UI, and it also displays the CPU and GPU temperatures, so I thought it was a very good software. Adjusting the RGB looks like this. Since it’s the red team, I tried to unify it with red. It’s not bad, but it feels a little heavy… If I make it white, it looks like this. This is more sophisticated and looks good. Adding glass and making the room darker makes it look like this . It’s really cool! But adding some red as an accent color makes it look even cooler. Ryzen retail cooler The RGB is easy to use, so let’s look at the performance last. First, the CHINEBENCH 2024 GPU score was 8491, with a maximum temperature of 68°C. The CPU (Multi) was 1061, and the (Single) was 115, with a maximum temperature of 79°C. The CPU performance is about the same as the Core i7 13700. The maximum temperatures for both the CPU and GPU are under 80°C, so the cooling performance seems to be sufficient. Next is the FF15 benchmark, standard quality in Full HD. Even in the heaviest battle scenes, the fps is over 120, which is plenty, so there is enough graphics performance to play games. With RTX, it seems to have the same performance as a 4060 ti. So, this time I used the parts from the red team to build a cool gaming PC for under 200,000 yen . I think I was able to achieve most of my original goal. If I were to make any improvements , I would have liked to have triple fans under the case. I would have used the A620I motherboard. If you use AX, you can use the top PCIe, so you might be able to install a triple fan underneath the case. However, that would mean an additional 15,000 yen, so if you use a power supply like the ANTEC CSK750H, that would be a loss of 10,000 yen, and you could also get cheaper memory and SSDs to keep the total price under 200,000 yen. I hope you all will consider using COSPASO. If you found this video helpful for building your own PC, please like and subscribe to the channel. Bye!

自作PC構成チェッカを使ったパーツ選びから、組み立て・RGBライティングの設定、性能確認まで丁寧に解説していきます！(=ﾟωﾟ)ﾉ

構成
・CPU：AMD Ryzen 7 7700
・マザーボード：MSI PRO B650M-E
・メモリー：Crucial PRO DDR5-5600
・SSD：WD_Black SN850X
・グラフィックボード：ASRock Radeon RX 7700 XT
・電源：LIAN LI SP750
・ファン：LIAN LI SL120
・PCケース：LIAN LI A3-mATX

・自作PC構成チェッカー
https://2tom.jp/diy/?a=9000&b=1&c=2&d=16&e=&f=&g=1.8&st.cpu=0&st.Auto_mode=0&st.gpu=0&st.size=1&st.chipset=0&st.hashOK=true&st.color=0&h=1.333224,2.408194,3.454228,4.272744,6.662011,7.152427,11.700904,12.130560,14.326215,14.473514,14.473514,14.473514,1B.607261,3B.454234,6B.423463

・ゆっくりバージョンはこちら
https://www.nicovideo.jp/watch/sm45035492

・PCパーツのレビューの再生リスト

〇使用しているモノ（Amazonアソシエイトリンク）
・AMD Ryzen 7 7700
https://amzn.to/4kGyjJm

・MSI PRO B650M-B
https://amzn.to/3Z7jxDf

・Crucial PRO DDR5-5600
https://amzn.to/3SWhhLo

・WD_BLACK SN850X
https://amzn.to/4kFYHTw

・MSI RADEON RX 7700 XT CHALLENGER
https://amzn.to/4dEO6pP

・LIAN LI SP750
https://amzn.to/3ZDqETW

・LIAN LI A3-mATX
https://amzn.to/3Fo8VsV

・LIAN LI SL120
https://amzn.to/4jvpl0C

〇チャンネルからのお知らせ
・チャンネル登録で応援お願いします！
http://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTzaARkyTyx55PMZ46E62vw?sub_confirmation=1

・メンバー（￥90／月）を募集中です！
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTzaARkyTyx55PMZ46E62vw/join

・個性的なＴシャツとか販売してます！
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCTzaARkyTyx55PMZ46E62vw/store

・BOOTHで３Dモデルを販売してます！
https://noyosuke.booth.pm/

・X（Twitter）で筋トレとかやってます！
Tweets by NOYOSUKE_YASURI

・ミニ四駆のチャンネル（よすけ）もよろしく！
https://www.youtube.com/@UCF-CJWb9CUWPCG_C6rOjwdQ

・いつも応援してくれる「きよさん」とこのネコたち！
https://www.youtube.com/@UCgyblvpZ2TWm14N9vW8gNlQ

・ニコニコ動画にも投稿しています！
https://www.nicovideo.jp/user/127294841?rf=nvpc&rp=watch&ra=video_information

〇使用させていただいているBGM、SE、画像
・DOVA-SYNDROME
https://dova-s.jp/

・いらすとや
https://www.irasutoya.com/

・甘茶の音楽工房
https://amachamusic.chagasi.com/

・効果音ラボ
https://soundeffect-lab.info/

・魔王魂
https://maou.audio/category/bgm/

#自作pc
#ゲーミングpc
#デスクツアー